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Russe

Imaging with the 130pds

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I hope this counts because I've done almost nothing with this lovely scope in recent times (hopefully more to come now the nights are darker). It's not really a "planet killer" scope, but sometimes the sun helps out. You're probably all bored to death of Mercury transit shots by now, but I haven't posted in a while and I don't see any others in this thread at the moment so.....

One short gif showing 3 consecutive frames, 5 minutes apart, to show some motion. To get the full solar disc in them I used my Canon 550D. Then just two simple stills from stacked video taken on the ASI120MC-S. Yellow version is colourised in Photoshop. I still can't tell if I prefer solar shots to be colourised or left "natural". All pretty quick processes and I took a lot more data so hopefully I can get something even better out of it.

There's also a (quite large, ~45mb) 30 second gif of first / second contact, very zoomed in, here: http://www.cavaye.com/stuff/astro/2019-11-11/Untitled-4.gif

3_Frames_5mins_Apart.gif.9d7c0b770830d61b01f2896990bf6bd8.gif

Mercury1.thumb.jpg.ed1cbb2adea5849f9f4d4a39cc507082.jpg

Mercury2.thumb.jpg.66989e783f448e7a9842391fc6ed8ec2.jpg

 

Thanks!

 

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On 10/11/2019 at 16:31, martin070 said:

when I use this scope with SW coma corrector to do high contrast DSO imaging such as M42, I will get some ghosting. (I use APS-C DSLR)

Yes I have seen this being reported too. But in my own experience I didn't encounter this problem.

Or, I may have found ghosts around "Navi" (see here) but these were really intended 😉

Maybe there's one detail that keeps me away from ghosting: I usually mount my LP filter after the SWCC in the imaging train, i.e. between the CC and the camera. So that's glass which could also filter out reflections from the CC after all. YMMV.

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On 10/11/2019 at 15:31, martin070 said:

Need help on ghosting. 

Hi, I am new on 130PDS and I found that when I use this scope with SW coma corrector to do high contrast DSO imaging such as M42, I will get some ghosting. (I use APS-C DSLR)

Here is an example with β Orionis. Is it possible to fix it through flocking or some other things without changing my corrector? If not, is Baader MPCC III a good choice? Because I heard that this one cannot correct the coma as good as the SW one 

PS. I modified the mirror clip to make cleaner diffraction spike and I use L-pro filter. But the ghosting has been there before I modified or imaging without filter

1.png

I have only found this an issue with VERY bright stars like Alnitak and relatively easy to remove with a bit of judicious healing.

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Wow another clear night I was able to use, makes two in as many months! I took some more subs to add to my M31 picture, I'd like to get a high quality looking image of one target before moving onto the next.

I also purchased Star Tools and have found it much better to work with than DSS>Lightroom & Photoshop. Although I need to use PS and HLVG as a final touch!

About 270 x 30".

Fin5.jpg

Edited by Shaun_Astro
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Hi everyone

Managed to get out for the first time in what seems like a lifetime this evening 

A combination of cloud early on and haze towards the end cut down on imaging time. My electronic focuser decided to go on the blink aswell which did not help matters, that will get sorted tomorrow but did mean some images are not as sharp as I would like.

I focused on getting multiple targets to dial in a few things and trying to keep integration times to below 1 hour per image.

Getting Comet C2017 T2 Panstarrs for the first time this year was also a welcome bonus considering the moon was out in full glory by this time.

m45.thumb.png.0541ab341b73a6c7f02200b53e83041c.png

M42.thumb.png.bf85fcdb162f13f6136b5b8596cb496c.png

horsehead.thumb.png.e344d4ccc44e0920c5c594856355ac89.png

27219278_C2017T2Panstarrs.thumb.png.1ecbe52ab5ae23a951bf9ced5495911b.png

I had 3D printed a rear cap to prevent stray light from getting behind the primary which seems to have worked and I also printed a light baffle that goes at the front, will be interesting to see if this actually does anything positive. I need to take the primary out at some point as well to get the dimensions to create a small baffle around the edge of the primary mirror.
 

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Are there any owner's who know if the OTA will cover a full frame sensor without vignetting, coma and the like?

Thanks

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42 minutes ago, 8472 said:

Are there any owner's who know if the OTA will cover a full frame sensor without vignetting, coma and the like?

Thanks

Try asking @Uranium235 directly, maybe he will advice
The link below is to his comment about the equipment he used back in 2014

 

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9 hours ago, 8472 said:

Are there any owner's who know if the OTA will cover a full frame sensor without vignetting, coma and the like?

Thanks

Vignetting is pretty much unavoidable with the 130 (or pretty much every other telescope to some degree), depending on the size of the sensor. 

Same goes for coma.... BUT .... that is what flats and coma correctors are for :D

I got the KAF8300 sensor working with the 130, but only after a few modifications to the telescope. But if youre talking about full frame as in 35mm....lol.. no chance. There are very few astrographs that can cope with that (and the ones that do cost a mint).

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9 hours ago, Uranium235 said:

Vignetting is pretty much unavoidable with the 130 (or pretty much every other telescope to some degree), depending on the size of the sensor. 

Same goes for coma.... BUT .... that is what flats and coma correctors are for :D

I got the KAF8300 sensor working with the 130, but only after a few modifications to the telescope. But if youre talking about full frame as in 35mm....lol.. no chance. There are very few astrographs that can cope with that (and the ones that do cost a mint).

I failed to say, I already own a 130pds and 0.9x SWCC. 

My M43 sensor seems to do ok, I've yet to use my APS-C, and I don't currently own any FF. I guess there's no point considering one now.

Thanks for the info!

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8 hours ago, 8472 said:

I failed to say, I already own a 130pds and 0.9x SWCC. 

My M43 sensor seems to do ok, I've yet to use my APS-C, and I don't currently own any FF. I guess there's no point considering one now.

Thanks for the info!

APS-C works fine with the 130P-DS

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Hi all 130pds owners .

Has anyone changed the locking screws and ring for a better more secure one ?

I've looked at the compression ring but that seems out of stock , I've been told a twist lock is more secure but requires a extra 10mm in focus which I'm down to a few mm left and already poking into tube.

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1 hour ago, Stub Mandrel said:

APS-C works fine with the 130P-DS

It works with a APS-C OSC sensor, but with mono cameras and higher resolution / star sampling it does not do as well. A 8300 or ASI1600 sized sensor is about the limit. 

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2 minutes ago, Fieldsy said:

Hi all 130pds owners .

Has anyone changed the locking screws and ring for a better more secure one ?

I've looked at the compression ring but that seems out of stock , I've been told a twist lock is more secure but requires a extra 10mm in focus which I'm down to a few mm left and already poking into tube.

See my solution from page 109 of this thread. I also added a third thumb screw. At one stage I purchased the compression fitting that FLO sell for it but its trash and introduces tilt. 

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1 hour ago, Fieldsy said:

I've looked at the compression ring but that seems out of stock , I've been told a twist lock is more secure but requires a extra 10mm in focus which I'm down to a few mm left and already poking into tube.

Compression rings are a waste of time/money, and the clicklock eats up far too much backspace for it to be of any use to the imager.

Two best ways are either screw fit, or three screws with a dovetailed 2"-T2 adaptor.

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Example of a dovetail adaptor:

(attached to the CC via M48)

20191120_181450.thumb.jpg.e5b68c21983c0def236f0eea13453168.jpg

 

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7 minutes ago, Uranium235 said:

Example of a dovetail adaptor:

(attached to the CC via M48)

20191120_181450.thumb.jpg.e5b68c21983c0def236f0eea13453168.jpg

 

Any chance you know what it’s called or posting a link , struggling to find it in m48 adapter /dovetail

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Hi everyone,

I want to buy this scope with baader mpc coma corrector. I have canon 1300d dslr. Can anyone text me (or give links) what accesories/ adapters i need ?

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12 hours ago, Heizel said:

what accesories/ adapters

Hi

This one will work fine.

HTH

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Ok, so only t2 to eos adapter? I have one, now time to click buy (black friday price) :) thanks 

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1 minute ago, Heizel said:

only t2 to eos adapter

Only... Good luck with the purchase. It's a good combination for imaging:)

 

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A dreamy rosette, but unfortunately running out of frame. The nebula extends further than suggested by kstars. Or -far more likely- I entered the focal length incorrectly in the first place. Maybe a two frame mosaic?

Comments for improvement always appreciated.

Thanks for looking.

829116262_1-roseta(copy).thumb.jpg.8e4df3a8debc2fadce8e7b19be203e14.jpg

Edited by alacant
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I have also found it larger than expected. Are you using the baader cc? I would be interested to see how much difference the skywater cc makes at x 0.9.

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On 19/11/2019 at 01:25, dyfiastro said:

I had 3D printed a rear cap to prevent stray light

Do you have any images of this as I think mine suffer from this.

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1 hour ago, spillage said:

baader cc

Hi. No, a sw.

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