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Everything posted by alacant

  1. Here is the same 450d sequence processed with and without dark frame subtraction. However, any modern eos with the 18Mp sensor or better, shouldn't need dark frames e.g. our 700d is completely clean; use dither instead. Cheers and HTH
  2. LOL. Yeah, a big advantage when imaging; you can read the newspaper whilst waiting for your exposures!
  3. Hi everyone. Had a built-like-a-tank Takumar this weekend. May even have caught a bit of the witch-head lower right (?). Wanted to catch this before Betelgeuse exploded;) Thanks for looking and clear skies. 80 minutes @ ISO400
  4. Hi We have 3 master dark frames, 3, 4 and 5 minutes for our 450d. 15 frames each. They only took around 2 hours to produce and using dark frame optimisation obviates the need for temperature matching. Simply reuse the master dark frames choosing according to exposure time rather than temperature. If you're thinking of dark frames to reduce noise on a 450d, then I'd say use one of your other cameras. If OTOH, you want to remove streaking and banding and in so doing make a dated camera produce acceptable results, then I'd say go for it. Cheers and HTH.
  5. If you've a modern DSLR, I think darks are a waste of time. If you've an older DSLR, then dark frames maybe the only way to correct banding. We've an eos450d which falls into the latter category. We have master darks corresponding to the common light frame exposures we use. They are all taken around 20°. Using dark optimization (we use iris/siril) with the master bias subtracted dark frame applied to each of the light frames before stacking effectively removes the banding; forget about matching temperature. Just our €0.02 'works for us' take on it:) Cheers and clear skies.
  6. Trying to simplify the options, Remove this cable. I'm assuming pc direct didn't work so... Send a photo of the entire cabling you have. This should clearly show the the cables to the mount, the handset and the computer. Cheers.
  7. OK. Try PC Direct and remove the autoguider cable.
  8. Hi Have you set the hand controller to PC Direct? Otherwise... How is the mount connected? Send a photo so we can see what is connected to where. Cheers
  9. Start menu -> eqascom -> toolbox. Then hit 'Ascom Connect'. It looks like this: https://images.app.goo.gl/iwyWfz3eG2qxGt8M9
  10. Have you started eqascom? It must be started before you try to connect to phd2 BUT you must select eqascom eq5/eq6 as the mount, not Skywatcher.
  11. Yes. You'll need the spare cable (SC) that came with the hand controller which is usually used when updating the firmware in the handset. Cabling Mount to handset as normal. SC into handset SC other end to RS232 RS232 to USB on computer But I'd still recommend the eqdir cable. If you need further help, please send photos of your setup, otherwise we're guessing. HTH
  12. I find they are essential. They take only a short time to produce and once you have them, you can use them over and over. You can however safely dispense with dark frames -for my eos they introduce more noise- by taking only bias and flat frames but dithering between light frames. Most modern stacking software will produce cleaner results with DSLR data this way. Of course YMMV but HTH anyway.
  13. Hi Are you sure it's an ethernet cable? It maybe a st4 cable to connect your guide camera to the mount. Do you have the correct cables to join the handset to the computer? If you wish to retain the handset, you'll need a USB to serial cable to complete the connection. Or -better- lose the handset and connect the mount directly to the computer using an eqdir cable. You'll also need eqascom on top of Ascom. Maybe some photos of what you have may help us to get you started. Cheers
  14. Hi In Color - Levels. Take the stack and move the centre slider left a little. Click OK. Now open levels again and repeat. Keep going until it gets too noisy and then back off a little. Now bring the left slider toward the centre to adjust the black level, but without it hitting the data. The Gimp also has an excellent noise reduction routine; Filters - Enhance - Noise Reduction, and colour balance; Colors - Color Balance. Or, if you're feeling brave; Colors - Curves. There's loadsa other stuff you can do in The Gimp too. Experiment! HTH
  15. Hi. yes, no problem. You just need one of these adaptors. HTH
  16. Hi If 135 is you first choice, I can recommend the excellent and sensibly priced Takumar, e.g. this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/N-MINT-PENTAX-SUPER-TAKUMAR-135mm-F-3-5-GENUINE-HOOD-FILTER-M42-SCREW-MOUNT-/153685441110 Example: HTH
  17. Yeah, there's loadsa detail. Well done:) To be able to see it better, just go easy with the sliders: HTH
  18. Hi Lovely shot but there's probably quite a bit more detail to be had. Cheers.
  19. +1. The main issue with the EKOS internal guider -as with st4- is that you have to calibrate for each new sky position and after a meridian flip: more to go wrong. I use EKOS with an indi connection to the mount and PHD2 to guide; calibrate once and forget about it. Or try both. In EKOS it's easy to setup two profiles. One for internal guiding and one for PHD2. HTH
  20. @happy-kat @MarsG76 Hi See here.The OP is on mac. Cheers
  21. Hi gphoto2 will do it: http://www.gphoto.org/ method here: https://brewinstall.org/Install-gphoto2-on-Mac-with-Brew/ or anyone running indi at your local Astro club. HTH
  22. Hi everyone Did 2 hours on this, but nada. Added another 2 and detail is starting to show. Gave up last year at 6 hours and diminishing returns. I concluded then that I'd reached the limit of what a dslr could do. Another 2 hours? I wonder... Anyway, thanks for looking and do post your dslr images of the same. It would be great to compare. Along with colour, I find this dark sort of stuff the most difficult, so all tricks and tips most gratefully received. 700d ISO800
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