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alacant

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Everything posted by alacant

  1. Hi Very difficult to say with what we have. Cheers
  2. 800d? It would probably be a lot easier viewing on your 'phone instead. At any angle you like:) When you get close to your target, lose live view and take single, say 5s, frames at ISO12800 so you can see any nebulosity and frame properly. +1 for @Grant93's suggestion of a well aligned finder telescope to get you close, although at just over 300mm, you'll probably be ok without. Cheers and HTH
  3. Hi Dust. It's quite normal. Best not to remove it as it forms part of the flattening process for your light frames. If you want to fight it (futile!) You can clean the sensor, but be sure to clean it after you have used the current set of flat frames, otherwise you'll be left with dust marks on your final image. HTH.
  4. Hi JTOL: try just the dithered frames too? I think that you're gonna need at least 2 hours of dithered frames to be able to bring the second and any subsequent Autodev(s)to where you'd like it. Post the data if you like. Cheers
  5. Hi everyone 95% moon and once again it was filtro UHC to the rescue. The processing did reveal some gradient, strangely though emanating from two opposing edges. There maybe some reflection somewhere in the tube. Must get some of that velvety stuff. I don't know if it helped noise wise, but we split the red and green and fed them into StarTools as HOO. The bg seems high too. Not sure... Thanks for looking and do post your dslr full moon shots. No need to keep stuff packed away just because there's a bright moon. Well, we don't think so anyway. ** A snap from Burnham, 1966. Love the old fotos. Stars in the same places! 700d on gso203 ~4 hours @ ISO800 **EDIT Tried separating the red and green in Siril instead (previously, gimp 2.10). Seems to push the stars into insignificance. A pity, as the detail seems better:
  6. Please accept my apologies. Totally childish. Clear skies.
  7. No! Just trying to avoid any confusion for any future readers of the thread:) Cheers
  8. You mention EQMOD on Windows and EKOS on Linux as if they were the same thing! If you use EQMOD in Windows, you'll use EQMOD on Linux. Let's hope this hasn't removed the simplicity of the answer to the (I think excellent) question: Yes. Cheers and HTH.
  9. Hi Nice shot. You've thrown away a lot of the nice darker bits. Leave room for them. There's almost certainly a lot more to be had:) Most astro software will shift it. The cleanest I've seen is StarTools' Wipe. Siril also does a good job and has the advantage of removing the banding on each frame before stacking using its sequence thingy. To minimise it, lose the dark frames and give a bigger dither between each frame. Cheers and HTH
  10. If you want to give it a go, Ascom Remote/Alpaca tries to do this. I'd venture however that it's of little or no interest to Linux users who've had native client-server from the outset. Cheers
  11. Hi Could be. Maybe best simply to go along to an astro club meeting and see it being used. A Linux INDI Kstars installation upon e.g. a laptop is exactly equivalent to the same running Windows ascom APT. It is limited neither to fixed observatories nor do you have to use remote desktop to manage it. If you so wish, you could sit with a Linux laptop at the mount and control it in exactly the same way as you would with windows. Same cables, same hardware. Same everything. Apart from the operating system. If you want ascom, either just use Windows or try Alpaca. I don't think though, there'll be much enthusiasm for a port of EKOS to connect to it. Cheers
  12. Hi My poor explanation. But yes. INDI, the bit which runs your mount and cameras etc. runs under Linux. I think it's maybe the client-server bit which is the most misunderstood. If you want just a single computer, then a Linux laptop at at the mount could be used to run both INDI and EKOS, the same as you would say ascom and SGP on windows. For beginners, we use Ubuntu mini-pcs running INDI-EKOS at the mount to supply remote imaging. Our experience with teamviewer is largely unprintable on a family site; most take our advice and connect over VNC, A few understanding souls also learn the ssh tunnel so taking control into their own hands so we can get some sleep! Cheers
  13. Kstars EKOS runs on windows. Fact. It is a CLIENT. Yes. No. Note: you don't need a virtual machine. Another computer to act as the server (e.g. your rpi) is fine and to be recommended. HTH
  14. Yes, of course it does:) We see many visitors struggle with SGP/NINA/stellarium and WHY. The simplicity and stability of Linux client-server comes as a breath of fresh air to many. There seems to be a lot of confusion about what Kstars and EKOS do. Maybe some pictures? Here is an INDI server controlling the hardware: And here is Kstars with EKOS communicating with it. On the same laptop sitting by the telescope if you really must. But then you've lost all the client server control-from-anywhere-with-Internet (or even just your warm dining room!) advantage. That's it. Installation takes around 5 minutes. There'as nothing else you need. No third party imaging program. No separate guide program. No separate planetarium. No anti-virus... It doesn't get much simpler:) Cheers and HTH.
  15. In between frames, stop tracking for (random) 5s and nudge DEC a tiny amount during.
  16. ??? So rolling back to the version which worked, doesn't work?!
  17. Build as many versions as you like. Just choose sensible names for the folders you build into.
  18. INDI code is hosted on GitHub. You can choose any version you like.
  19. The OP reports the same problem on a separate NUC with a fresh install.
  20. If it still doesn't work (it should), just use a Prolific cable and set the port as indicated on first plugging the cable.
  21. Hi Nice shot. You can minimise the effect by choosing a more suitable ROI for second and subsequent AutoDevs and/or just kill it using the Denoise module's large scale slider. @jager945will be able to fill you in on the intricacies of the process. Even better, go again. This time, clean the sensor, lose the dark frames, dither between light frames and stack using a clipping algorithm. Siril is the best I've found for the latter. Then you'll really be able to see the StarTools magic:) Cheers
  22. And what messages did you get? Anything different to the ones I posted? You said you'd already tried it. Many times. What did you use?
  23. Mmm. Specifically this post in this thread. HTH
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