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Adam J

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About Adam J

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    Lincoln, UK
  1. Adam J

    ZWO ASI294MC

    I would not really feel right linking someones images as examples of ones that I consider to be poor...for all I know they post on here. I would be ok linking examples of what I consider to be good images from the 294mc pro though. Adam
  2. Adam J

    ZWO ASI294MC

    Not sure what you mean by ROI. I dont think that they intended it as a replacement for the ASI1600mc-pro I just think that it sold better than the ASI1600mc-pro. Atik, QHY and Meade still sell the OCS version of that chip. Indecently I would also still take those over the 183mc too. https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/meade-deep-sky-imager-iv-colour-imaging-camera.html However in the end it depends on what you want to use it for. If you see images that people have taken using it that you like then go for it. I like the mono versions, but I dont see images that I personally rate coming from the OSC version of the 178 or 183. You have both the Atik 383l+ (I assume mono) and the QHY8L in your signature block. Personally I would take either of those ahead of a 183mc unless it was a very short focal length fast lens. Adam
  3. Adam J

    ZWO ASI294MC

    I have done the calculations when choosing sensors prior to getting my ASI1600mm pro, but for me its also clear to see real world in the comparison of IMX294 vs IMX183 images on Astrobin. I like the mono version of the IMX183m at short focal lengths <400mm or for galaxy hunting on larger scopes.....although even then I might take the IMX178m over it in that role due to its lower noise and 14bit sensor. But if I was starting out and I had a 130PDS and I was set against mono, I cant find any positives to getting the ASI183mc pro over the ASI294mc pro. The 183c is a great camera for lunar and solar imaging though...just not deeps sky. Adam
  4. Adam J

    ZWO ASI294MC

    The performance of the OSC version of the IMX183 is not all that great in my opinion and the pixel size is poorly matched to the 130PDS. Also you will have a really poor field of view working at 650mm focal length with a 1 inch chip. You will end up at about 0.8 pixels / arcsecond with the 183 and unless you have a serious mount you wont be able to guide to a suitable accuracy. Get the ASI294mc pro the pixel size is sensible at that focal length as is the FOV with the larger sensor, also in the end the IMX294 is much more sensitive than the IMX183 it has larger pixels and lower noise while still providing good resolution. As others have said, there is no real advantage to the ASI294mc over a modified DSLR when uncooled, as it has a higher dark current than most at ambient temperatures. Adam
  5. Adam J

    Imaging with the 130pds

    I dont use a heater, I do use a dew shield. It has to be very high humidity 85% before I have problems and that is usually associated with poor transparency anyway. I have only had it dew up once this year and I suspect that was because I needed to remove the dew shield to refocus with the mask. I think that some of this is to do with using a obsy though and I do remember it being worse before I got the obsy. I would see how you get on with a dew shield before you go to the trouble of adding a heater to the secondary. The most important mod is that you, cut the focuser tube (unless you get the ES corrector). Adam
  6. No not sure I would call them better, just different. Look at results and see what you like the most.
  7. It will give more natural colour as oppose to the hard cut off between the baader filters as an example. So it's natural tones Vs greater colour separation (effectively a more saturated look).
  8. Adam J

    My new ASI294 (non-cooled)

    Not heard much about your scope but it looks nice in the images. Not sure about the Meade DSI iv as I have not seen any images from it yet. However it really does look well made, its drivers that would worry me. I am assuming that you are still thinking about the color version and not the mono. I will say that if you are in a light polluted area then you are better off with mono, even in exchange for a smaller sensor. I would suggest the ASI183mm pro would be the correct way to go within your budget you can start out with a manual wheel and a Ha filter. If you are in a darker area then I would say that the ASI294mc pro is a great choice of color camera. I would get a UHC filter or a Duo Narrow Band Filter with it for imaging nebula. What mount do you have? Adam
  9. Adam J

    My new ASI294 (non-cooled)

    I would have to know what telescope you are planning to use it with, focal length and aperture. I would say that if you want a One Shot Colour (OSC) then the ASI294mc Pro is your best bet. If you are willing to consider mono then there are other options for you to consider depending on the rest of your kit.
  10. take a piece of Aluminium foil and place if over the end of your imaging train, poke a hole in it with a pin. You will be surprised with what you end up with.
  11. Adam J

    Star Halo(s)

    Stupid question, but I see this lots more when people use un mounted filters in comparison to mounted filters. The reason being that you are physically able to mount the filter the wrong way around. So have you tried reversing the filters in the wheel? I don't have any reflections at all with my Astrodon 5nm filters and my ASI1600mm pro. Even the micorlens diffraction effect is lesser than in most images. The other thing to try is imaging the same star without the corrector.
  12. Ok not that I want to cause panic but those are the factory set lens alignment screws, if you had not already done it I would be screaming at you not to touch them. If you now find that your corner stars are odd shapes then altering those screws could be the cause. They glue them because they are never supposed to be moved by the user.
  13. Adam J

    My new ASI294 (non-cooled)

    The two technological pillars on which dedicated astronomy cameras sit are set point cooling and mono sensors. If you dont have one you had better have the other as a minimum. This being said I would say yes there is an advantage to the ASI294mc over a DSLR, but its not a big enough advantage to justify the additional money you paid for it above the cost of a used / modified DSLR. You are also hampered by the fact that the ASI294mc has a CMOS chip (IMX294) in it that has a higher than average Dark current at un-cooled temperatures. For my money I would be sticking with the DSLR as opposed to an uncooled dedicated camera for DSO imaging and would not purchase a dedicated camera without set point cooling. You can have a lifetime of fun with a DSLR alone, but you went for a dedicated camera because you wanted higher sensitivity (I assume) and to get the most out of it you want to be cooling it to -10c or lower all year round. So is another 300 pounds worth it? It would not be just for a fan...but as others have said its not just a fan its a cooler, it lowers temperature to well below ambient and maintains a precise temperature for easy calibration. Again in the case of the ASI294mc I would say that you really need set point cooling to calibrate as it suffers from AMP glow (as do many other Astro Camers), amp glow is easy to remove with calibration frames but not if you cant maintain the sensor at a steady temperature. I would say that the uncooled version of the ASI294mc pro is more of a long focal length solar / Luna imaging camera than a DSO camera. In summery GET THE COOLED ONE WHILE YOU STILL CAN. If not I suspect you will be wanting to move on from it rather soon and then it will cost you the loss in selling the uncooled one on and the 300 pounds more for the cooled version. Adam
  14. Adam J

    Betelgeuse, single frame

    Actually you correct, its more distant than I thought, I think I remember reading that less than 100ly to a SN and it will do damage to the ozone layer and less than 33ly and it will remove it.
  15. Adam J

    Betelgeuse, single frame

    Personally I like my ozone layer fully intact.
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