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Adam J

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About Adam J

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    Lincoln, UK
  1. Adam J

    Altair Hypercam V2 Color Any good ?

    Why colour if you dont mind me asking? Mono cameras are vastly higher performance for a similar cost, I use a cheap 60 pound LRGB set with mine so filters dont have to cost the earth. In any case if I was to get a color camera it would be between the QHY168c and the ASI294mc pro especially if you are going to get a scope with a slightly longer focal length later on. While the ASI1600 is great in mono, I have not been blown away by the shots people are taking with the color version. If you are sticking with the lenses and the ZS61 for a while then I think that the ASI183mc pro is probably the way to go due to the smaller pixels being better suited to the short focal length. I would not be tempted to get Altairs first cooled camera hot of the shelf, ZWO had issues with their first cooled attempts with the 1600 and so I would let it mature first.
  2. Hi, I am thinking about getting some new filters for use with my recently purchased ASI1600mm pro and will be selling some things to fund this. I am wondering if anyone on SGL is using Astronomik 6nm filters as I see FLO started selling them recently. I was thinking about Baader 7nm Ha and 8.5nm OIII (which I have currently in 2 inch but don't fit my new filter wheel) however I liked the Idea of the Astronomik Ha and OIII having the same bandwidth were as the Baader filters are different. The thing making me hesitate is that I have heard talk about past / current issues with reflections on Astronomiks 6nm filters, I have found some examples, but also some with no reflections from bright stars. What with the already complex issue with the ASI1600mm pro micro-lenses I did not want to further add to that problem by having filter reflections too. Anyone got any example images with these filters of the HH or Gamma Cas etc? What do you think of them? Are you happy with your purchase? Perticually interested if anyone is using them with the ASI1600mm and even more interested if they are using it with the ASI1600mm and a 130PDS. Cheers, Adam
  3. I attempted to use Luminescence flats for RGB before and it left a blotchy background to the image.
  4. Adam J

    Altair Hypercam V2 Color Any good ?

    The question is what do you want to use it for? Deep Sky wide field at a guess looking at your scopes. Assuming that it is this camera: https://www.altairastro.com/Altair-Hypercam-IMX183C-Colour-Astronomy-CMOS-Camera.html Then yes the IMX183c sensor itself is very well suited to the ZS61 and the Samyang 135mm lens due to its small pixels. I would be getting an IMX183 based camera if I had those scopes / lenses. HOWEVER, and its a big however, I would not myself purchase the Altair-Hypercam IMX183C myself because for me, for DSO imaging, it fails on two counts. 1) Its not cooled. Yes it is passively cooled but it has no set point cooling. That means that you will struggle with noise in the spring / summer and more importantly you will struggle to calibrate the amp glow out of your images using darks (a problem with this sensor specifically). 2) Its a OSC not a mono camera. If you live close to Portsmouth than you will experience light pollution and you are better off with a mono camera and although you can do Narrow band imaging using OSC (I have) it will work better with a mono. The two points above represent the pillars of dedicated camera imaging and if you don't have one you had better have the other. Personally I would rank it something like this: 1) Setpoint cooled mono camera 2) Setpoint cooled OSC camera 3) Passive cooled mono 4) Passive cooled OSC (The one you suggest) / DLSR. In essence what I am saying is that I would not consider that camera to be an upgrade from your DSLR assuming that your DSLR is modified then it may actually be better by virtue of having a larger sensor. If you got it I feel you would regret it. Its getting good reviews mainly because its great for Solar and imaging the moon, with the ability to do some DSO. What reviews have you seen? Save your money up and get a set point cooled version of the IMX183c like this: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi-183mc-pro-usb-3-cooled-colour-camera.html or even better a mono version like this: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi-183mm-pro-usb-3-cooled-mono-camera.html or the QHY version from modern astronomy: https://www.modernastronomy.com/shop/cameras/cooled-ccd/qhy-cooled-ccd-cameras/qhy183c/ If you really dont want to spend more than about 600 then I would even recommend the smaller mono ASI178mm-c over the Hypercam OSC or something second hand. Hope that helps, Adam
  5. I would just get hold of the person you purchased it from and ask him to drop his dark library onto a DVD for you and send with the camera. I think that you will find that the ATIK 383l+ needs filters that are larger than 1.25 inch. Others may correct me but I think you need 36mm or 2 inch filers with that camera.
  6. Adam J

    What’s wrong with this DSLR sensor?

    They are idiots or they just want to sell him a new camera.
  7. Adam J

    Canon 750d or not

    To be honest with you I always rated the older 450 550 and 600 cameras as they are a cheap way into astro photography, you would not see me buying a more recent more expensive camera though simply because its not a cost effective way of getting better imaging performance. Once your over 350 pounds for a DSLR I think that you are better off saving your money for a dedicated camera.
  8. Adam J

    JamesF's observatory build

    I seem to recall starting mine at the same time as you. Must me getting close to a year now.
  9. Adam J

    M51 Hypercam 183 firstlight

    The AA Hypercam is not set point cooled so for a bright galaxy like m51 he is better off using the short exposure method due to amp glow and temperature matching darks. Just needs to work on his settings.
  10. Adam J

    M51 Hypercam 183 firstlight

    That could be your problem the video crop modes are 8 bit only native. if you want 12 bit dynamic range you need to use the full frame of the sensor, if my memory is correct. Of course that's cropping on chip, I suppose it could be possible for software to crop post readout. I don't think it's a USB 2 / 3 issue.
  11. Adam J

    M51 Hypercam 183 firstlight

    Could be loss of dynamic range by operating the camera in 8-bit mode as opposed to the normal 12-bit mode, combined with short exposures at very high gain probably explains the core being blown out in only 10 seconds. When using the short exposure technique then you do need to set high gain of about 1100 on the Altair Astro...but you really do need to run 12-bit mode. With only 1.3e read noise you really done need exposures longer than 10 seconds and you could actually go lower 5 seconds perhaps, the biggest problem is that 50 is nothing like sufficient. Maybe 2000
  12. Adam J

    HyperStar Mono Camera

    Be aware that you will need high speed filters for imaging with a hyper-star. The ASI1600mm pro has a diffraction pattern around bright stars...not sure if it gets better or worse with faster optics but the speed of the optics is clearly a active factor. You could also consider the 460EX for mono imaging. However....I have often heard that OSC is in fact preferential for hyper-star due to the filter handling issues and the need to use filters that can operate at F2. The QHY10 is an older OSC design, I would personally be tempted by the ASI294mc pro if I was looking for a modern camera to use with hyperstar. Also take a look at the Duo-Narrow band filters. Not sure what there max F-ratio is though. Adam
  13. Just remember there are many more factors in image quality beyond just the camera. You could end up comparing poor and good transparency, poor and good focus, poor and good seeing, fast and slow scope...etc...etc.
  14. Adam J

    ZWO New LRGB Filters Optimized for ASI1600

    Its also worth noting that the ASI1600mm pro will produce diffraction effects around stars all on its own, just in case you did not know about that issue. Beyond that filters should not really produce halos these days, I am using the really cheap Baader beginner LRGB set and I have no halos, so price is not a good indicator.
  15. Adam J

    Need Some Guidance on Siting an Observatory

    If he blanks it out you will be ok, nothing you have to deal with can be worse than my garden lol.

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