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Adam J

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About Adam J

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    Brown Dwarf

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    Lincoln, UK
  1. No it won't make a difference so long as you use it like a CMOS and don't try to use it like your CCD.
  2. The 183 is probably a bit of a small sensor for the focal length of that scope. If you went with it I would recommend a reducer but even then you will have a small field of view, to small for much more than galaxy imaging. I think the ASI1600mm pro or similar / larger sensor is a better idea. I would still go mono in irrespective of sky brightness. On the whole if I was willing to pay for a 120mm triplet I would be sticking a KAF-16200 based camera on it as opposed to a tiny CMOS sensor. Adam
  3. Nice detail in the galaxies, just a shame about the background, have you used flats? Or is this just a moon related issue?
  4. I would think its more that they have to change their process as oppose to simply leaving a step out. With mono they still need to add micro lenses and AR coatings to the sensor, but those normally come after the filter matrix in the fabrication process. So I am guessing that they wont produce mono in the same batch / run as RGB. So the mono is a special additional run of sensors. If you look at the IMX183 mono it came out a couple of years after the OSC version. Probably for this reason exactly, the finished making OSC before they switched to producing a mono run. Also as there are less options for mono sensors they can ask more. ASI1600mm pro is a good example of producing a mono sensor on the cheap without altering your process, you end up with a micro lens diffraction pattern due to lack of appropriate broadband AR coatings. Adam
  5. Yeah the dark current doubling temperature on this sensor is very good, so dark current doubles every 10c or so, most sensors are 5-8c. But that does mean have half the noise at 10c as you do at 20c and half as much again at 0c. Ada,
  6. Just use a pier extension when using the refactor. I would not change the height of the main pier. I hope that there are still some darks skys left for me when I retire in 20 years time.
  7. Having used that stuff you don't have much time before it starts to go off so you will need to work fast. Will you be leaving the mount outside on the pier covered? or taking it out each time you image? Adam
  8. I hope that test was done inside? Either that or your having much better weather down your end than we are up in lincoln. Edit: Never mind you say indoor. I suspect that the fan is also useful in providing a stable temperature across multiple sub exposures and that is useful for making Darks without having the benefit of full set point cooling. How long does it take to reach a stable temperature with the fan on? If it was me then I would probably monitor temperature during an imaging run and then slap the cap on and take a set of 10 darks every time the temperature shifts by more than 2c. Eventually you will end up with a Dark library covering a range of temperatures and wont have to do that anymore. Another way is to leave it out over night taking Darks for several nights with different weather and hence as the temp drops over night you will get dark frames at a range of temperatures and can create a library from them. In the end the fan and temperature sensor is certainly a worth while addition to the camera and is why I recommended it over the ZWO version. Its a half way house between a fully cooled camera and a DSLR with it also being mono. Expect significantly better performance as you drop below 10c ambient in the winter months and eventually less....which is of course when it matters most in this hobby, summer nights are short anyhow. Adam
  9. Rob I have looked at this a couple of times over the last year and I always wonder how you control camera rotation with this setup. Also how do you colimate?
  10. no problem, for 550 pounds its difficult to go wrong really.
  11. I would think that FLO will sort you out especially as you have not even opened the box. Consider a Ha filter too when you can afford one. You will still need something to hold that 1.25 inch filter in as the camera wil connect to your corrector via T2 threaded extenders. You need to keep the FF/FR to sensor spacing at 55mm for it to work. Adam
  12. Understood, but I dont think it will be much of an issue with the OPs 80mm F6.3 refactor. With mono you can chose to refocus per filter, with OSC you dont have the ability to refocus for each wavelength as such not refocusing a Mono camera will deliver similar results to the OSC. The most important thing to focus on with mono is the lum filter as that determines the sharpness of the image, RGB filters just add a colour layer.
  13. Any chance that many more Darks would help if those bands are changing on a sub by sub basis? Would they average out? Dithering might help too.
  14. I thought he used unity gain which is more like 1.7 - 1.9e as opposed to 1.4e? Adam
  15. Your points are valid, OSC is less effort in capture and requires less experience in processing, but I dont see why you would want an auto focuser. I have dont have one. You dont have to go mono, but it will perform better, especially in light polluted conditions.
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