Jump to content

30 secs banner.jpg

Adam J

Members
  • Content Count

    3,774
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Adam J last won the day on January 30 2020

Adam J had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,866 Excellent

6 Followers

About Adam J

  • Rank
    White Dwarf

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lincoln, UK

Recent Profile Visitors

8,599 profile views
  1. They are better by a factor of two in terms of light pollution and sky glow rejection. However they are not going to be double the value for money. If you want value for money go with the original SHO set and maybe upgrade the OIII to the new filters when they become available as OIII is going to show a bigger performance advantage than the SII and Ha filters.
  2. Here: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/new-baader-cmos-optimized-ultra-narrowband-and-highspeed-filters/ Make sure you order the correct set for your f-ratio.
  3. I think that the Baader lrgb are decent. I own Baader LRGB and Astrodon SHO. I would call the Baader 8.5nm OIII dated and it still gives reflections like pretty much anyone but AD and Chroma OIII. Baader are now bringing out a CMOS optimised SHO set that I would wait for it it was my choice. https://www.baader-planetarium.co.uk/shop/baader-lrgb-filtersets/
  4. With the amount FLO sell I doubt they are old stock.
  5. If I went about correcting web pages I would do nothing else. But here is the correct chart, as you see the UV cut lacks the spike present below 380nm in the version you posted. https://www.baader-planetarium.co.uk/shop/baader-lrgb-filtersets/ The old Baader ir only cut was used in as L in the older chars are opposed to the UV/ir cut. Or at least that's as far as I can determine.
  6. Baader lum pass is no wider than the L2 if you wanted narrower you would need L3. That Baader chart you posted earlier is in error as it the line for their IR cut filter not the UV/IR filter that is included in the modern set. If you look here they have the correct pass band for the UV/IR cut. As you see it's about 410nm. https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-uvir-cut--l-filter.html The older version of the LRGB chart is the one you posted. There is a newer version of that chart knocking about. FLO have the old one on their site.
  7. Don't go Optolong on an Esprit 100 the blue and lum are too wide to be fully corrected. Any of the others are narrower but I would say Astronomik if you can afford them or Baader. I say this as a Esprit 100 user.
  8. Take care with the 4040 sensor it's actually 4 sensors stitched together each independently calibrating it can cause calibration artifacts with the joins between quadrants visible. They would have had to have addressed that if you wanted to use it for imaging rather than scientific applications.
  9. This looks more like a colimation issue to me but the only way is to rotate the camera and see of the worst corner moves or stays orientated to the sensor.
  10. looks to me that the focus is poor across the entire image and so its difficult to make an assessment of tilt or colimation. Really you need to repeat the test with better focus.
  11. You may have to buy one and let us all know. Looks very similar to the Altair astro cameras.
  12. At two seconds you should see some stars but you may be too fat out of focus to see them. Try flashing a torch into the scope if the image doesn't go completely white you have a camera problem or you left the lens cap on
  13. QHY make the QHY-5-III 485c, sold by modern astronomy. Adam
  14. I know it might not be happening in this situation but I think that policy should be looked at again.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.