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Adam J

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About Adam J

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    Sub Dwarf

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    Lincoln, UK
  1. Its target dependent but for the Vail I would just match the Ha integration as its bright in OIII.
  2. Unless you have a huge scope (10 inch +) you will be fine 1x1.
  3. You will be fine with 20 min subs no need to bin more than likely as your pixels are quite big anyhow.
  4. Adam J

    CMOS camera recomendations

    Actually gain 0 could cause you issues too, try 57. With the dark frames its more about keeping taking the darks at a similar ambient temperature irrespective of set point. It does not have to be identical but you will need summer and winter darks. Try -10c for the set point, thats actually the temperature recommended by ASI as you dont get any real improvement with thermal noise below -10c and you are increasing the thermal delta which can result in calibration problems with respect to ambient temperature variation. At least in accordance with what people who are getting good results on cloudy nights are saying about the camera. AstroArt 5 was not mentioned, some have Dark Frame scaling inbuilt and no option to disable. It might be worth stacking in DSS with optimization disabled to see if it improves your calibration results.. I use Astro Pixel Processor and they had an update to improves CMOS calibration perpetually with the 183.. I guess you have a few things worth a try though. I think the chip is workable as there are some cracking shots starting to populate Astrobin and I dont see amp glow / starburst effect in them.
  5. Adam J

    Altair Astro 183c Pro spacing

    No problem, in return, I am considering a ES ED80 and would be interested in seeing any images you have taken with it. Is yours the FCD01 or the FCD100 version?
  6. Adam J

    Altair Astro 183c Pro spacing

    That would be your choice. The factors to consider are: 1) The Altair Astro 183 mono TEC looks like it is better build from the pictures. Not that the ZWO is bad. 2) The Altair Astro 183 mono TEC has more buffer memory...but that mostly relevant to solar / lunar imaging. 3) The Altair Asto 183 mono TEC looks to have superior cooling capacity by about 5c. Probably not relevant in the UK as the recommendation is not to go lower than -10c with the 183 anyhow. 5) Altair Astro are a UK supplier and so you dont have to send the camera back to China if it has an issue (no problem here especially if you get it from FLO, it just takes longer). 6) The ZWO ASI cameras are proven the Altair Astro TEC cameras are not. So you would be a first adopter, hence a little bit more technical risk as its their first TEC cooled product. 7) The ZWO ASI cameras can be purchased from FLO and they will look after you if you have any issues. 8 ) You can get your filter wheel and filters from ZWO and know that there will not be any fiddling to get them to work with the camera. 9) This is the big one..the ASI183mm pro is 100pounds cheaper. That is enough to buy you a LRGB filter set...well almost. The two cameras are likely to take images of very comparable quality. Hope that helps. Adam
  7. Adam J

    CMOS camera recomendations

    I have a few questions for you. 1) What program are you using to stack, it has been noticed recently that people using nebulocity are unable to fully calibrate the 183m chip. 2) Irrespective of the stacking program you are using have you disabled dark frame optimization / scaling? If not then a CMOS chip will not correctly calibrate. 3) What gain are you using on the 183m, high gains are not recommended with the chip and it works better with lower gains an moderate exposure lengths. Lots of people recommend gain 57 and 5 min exposures. 4) When did you take your dark frames? You cant expect dark frames taken with a CMOS in winter to work in summer. They have to be taken at an ambient temperature in the near to that of the light frames. So +- 10c would be a good starting point. Hence you need to record your dark frame ambient temperature. Ie if you take your darks at 20c ambient dont expect them to work with lights taken at 0c ambient like with a ccd. Adam
  8. Adam J

    Altair Astro 183c Pro spacing

    Get a ASI183mm pro with a 5 position efw mini and the ZWO lrgb filter set. Then also add a baader 7nm ha if you can afford it. That is what I would do.
  9. Adam J

    Altair Astro 183c Pro spacing

    Ok then consider this, you have a ES ED80. I would be looking at the ASI294mc pro if I was hell bent on getting a OSC camera and had your scope in that kind of price range. Its much more sensitive than the 183c. The only reason to get the 183c with that scope is if you want a specialism in smaller galaxies or moon / soler and to be honest the 80mm scope is not great for that anyway. But all in all with limited time to image mono is faster, but you do need a wheel to cycle the filter and its more expensive....but i promise its faster.
  10. Adam J

    Altair Astro 183c Pro spacing

    The star burst effect is what people mean when they talk about amp glow with this camera.
  11. Adam J

    QHY163M with HyperStar

    Yes you need more back focus by the looks of it...an excellent reason to add a filter draw for that mono sensor.
  12. Adam J

    CMOS camera recomendations

    Most people would give it longer. But the point is that using 30mins per channel it will surpass your dslr image. Use 2 minutes subs for 15 frames per channel. Bring luminance in at another 30mins and it will take it to a whole new level. Lots of people don't pay more for mono and filters just because they want to make there life difficult.
  13. Adam J

    Altair Astro 183c Pro spacing

    Make sure you get a cooled version at the least, I would recommend a mono, you will most likely regret it later if you dont. The 183 chip is looking great but has amp glow that will only calibrate out fully if you can temperature match the dark frames, that means regulated TEC cooling. The Altair Astro looks marginally better build quality to me but its untested, the ASI is still a very good camera. I suggest you contact the people you get the reducer off about the spacing there are so many different models. Adam
  14. Adam J

    CMOS camera recomendations

    Don't consider anything that is not set point cooled perticually with the 183 which requires good calibration. Also I recommend that you get the mono version. The Altair Astro 183mono TEC or the ASI183mm pro would be my choices. If you insist on OSC then out of your list I would get the Altair Astro 183c TEC as it looks a little better made than the ASI not that the ASI is a poor camera.
  15. Interesting, I use the same 240s exposure length with my ASI1600mm pro on my 130PDS and after 24 subs my result was significantly smoother. I operated it at -20c just in case your using a higher temperature. Did you dither? How are you calibrating? Ill post my Ha / OIII result later. But its only about 1/4 of the data I am aiming for. Cheers, Adam
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