Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

Welcome to Stargazers Lounge

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customise your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Adam J

Advanced Members
  • Content count

    438
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

225 Excellent

1 Follower

About Adam J

  • Rank
    Star Forming
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lincoln, UK
  1. Cant help with a comparison but may people including myself use the MPCC MKIII with great results even on APS-C sized sensors and the KAF8300 is sub APS-C so you will be good. Worked great on my 1000D, having some teething problems with my 550D but am sure ill get it working well with some tweaking. The F4 will most likely work well too...its just that the optimal spacing changes with F-number.
  2. Nice one, my only worry would be how do you fit a dew shield?
  3. It the same T2 as was used in the 1000D and that had the exact same setup as the 550D only difference is the camera and that the 550D is a full spectrum modification. Either way I have made a 2mm spacer, ill see if that helps or makes it worse just as soon as I get some clear skys.
  4. Thats kina true, its main function is to provide a flange to prevent the M48 thread from dropping into the focus tube. However, can also partly loosen the ring it so that when you tighten the CC into the T-2 thread you gain some fine control over the spacing as it tightens up against the ring, either way I am not using it in the setup. I am just using the step from the T-2 to the M48 help seal the front of the cool box while maintaining the spacing. If i only cut the hole large enough for the T-2 to pass through then that would result in the thickness of the box being added to the CC spacing. However, getting back onto topic, from my image does anyone know if I need to increase the spacing or reduce it?
  5. Unfortunately that is not an option for me as my camera is inside a cool box and so I remove the 2.5mm thick spacer on the M48 thread and this passes through a 48mm diameter hole in the 2.5mm thick wall of the cool box which then acts as the spacer of the correct thickness by deliberate design. This leaves the T-2 thread / T-ring sitting inside the box flush with the front surface. This provides me with an excellent seal to prevent moist air from entering the cool box. I know that this is not effecting the CC spacing however as its exactly the same arrangement as used with my older 1000D and it had no issues with coma when used with the cool box. I am only getting coma on the new 550D.
  6. This is clearly a stacked and processed image, also cropped but its the only one taken with the new camera. The effect is most visible in the top left.
  7. It will be easier in any case as the 500D sensor is not mounted on springs and its easier to disassemble too.
  8. In an ideal word yes. It worked just great with my 1000D that I had only done a IR mod on. It is not working very well with my new 550D, it may be that I did not get the sensor back into the same position perfectly following the mod....or if could be that removing both filters has had a larger effect on the effective optical path length between the CC and sensor. Either way its much easier for me to shim the CC by a couple of mm than it is to keep dissembling the camera in a trial and error approach.
  9. Ill post the CCD inspector results once I am home from work and an example image. I think I have a combination of tilt (ill have to tweak the sensor adjustment screws on my 550D I may not have gotten them in the correct position after removing the sensor and replacing it) and coma (stars with tails pointing away from a single point within the image....to the lower right of centre due to the tilt....or maybe that is poor collimation who knows at this point)
  10. I have modified my DSLR by removing both filters (full spectrum mod). I don't intend to use a lens so I did not bother with replacing the filters with a clear glass element to maintain autofocus. I have IR modified cameras before, but not full spectrum and following the mod I am now getting allot of curvature, CCD inspector is saying 38%! resulting in bad coma over the outer third of the image. I am using a Baader MPCC MKIII which would normally require a 55mm spacing so 10mm thick T-Ring + 45mm spacing on the camera. What I don't understand is that you are supposed to use a 55mm spacing with a CCD also and those don't have any other filters in front of them, just an optical window. So I was expecting that the filters did not effect the CC spacing only the back focus and I don't understand why my CC is giving such poor correction. I should also note that I am using a CLS Clip filter between the CC and the sensor. If I do need to make an adjustment using a shim / spacer I am guessing that I am going to have to increase the separation as opposed to reducing it????? Does that sound right? Anyone got any advice, or had this problem themselves? Cheers, Adam
  11. My new DIY dew shield, the classical camping mat design.
  12. It looks like you have poor focus to me, its possible that the focus shifted after removing the mask, maybe combined with something else, maybe mirror pinch. I have not seen anyone report an issue with triangular stars with the 130PDS before.
  13. What edition was it?
  14. I could see this being an issue with older hand ground mirrors, not so sure I would expect the mirror to have been ground off centre with modern automated equipment. I'll have a read about Cheshire colimators, my issue it is currently that the laser spot moves as I rotate the collimator on my current bargain basement model.
  15. Very nice, so will you be using both scopes at the same time to get place detailed objects within a wider field? I am starting to wonder if my centre spot is actually central....its just such a pain to remove the primary. How far out was it? Either way I need to get shot of my terrible laser collimator as the laser is not parallel to the focuser before I do anything else. Anyone got a suggestion for a quality collimator....preferably still costing less than the scope?