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About dyfiastro

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    Star Forming

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  • Interests
    Photography, astronomy and astrophotography
  • Location
    Borth, Wales.
  1. Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions. I have pulled trigger on a number of lenses that should be here over the next week. Amongst them are the following that I feel will get a fair amount of dark sky time Samyang 14mm f/2.8 Samyang 20mm f/1.8 Canon 70-200 f/4 I also have a 17-40 and 24-105 f/4 coming which is mainly for daytime shooting but may well see how they perform piggybacked on my mount at some point. The unknown at present is the tamron 90mm macro, time will tell. Will try and get some images up once I get chance.
  2. Thanks everyone I already have my main obsy setup so at present trying to look at lenses that will do double duty if possible. I have always been a fan of samyang lenses. the new sigma ART range do look great and seem to be getting raving reviews for traditional photography. I did look at the Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 but is a crop body only lens, not designed for full frame which is a real shame. I have the body and a tamron 90mm macro coming tomorrow and making a list of possible glass going forward.
  3. I had forgot about the samyang 135mm. that is another to add to the possible list, thanks.
  4. hi everyone I am in the process of switching camera systems so looking to buy a number of lenses (switch from fuji back to canon). What lenses are you using / can recommend for astrophotography? I intend getting something like the 14mm samyang for widefield astrolandscapes but looking at other options instead of using a small scope for when out for a few nights in the van. Currenty looking to find a few lenses that can do double duty to save spending extra on a small scope as well. I am currently thinking along the lines of a 70-200L, 135 f/2 etc... The camera will be an EOS R so only EF mount lenses (or possibly adapted) Any thoughts and input would be great.
  5. I did the same a few weeks back with mine, and can also confirm just what a difference this makes. In regards to re-aligned the primary, I used the barlow'd laser method.
  6. http://www.astronomerstelegram.org/?read=13620&fbclid=IwAR3Gp8FP9e2Nu3-UHPBMEXWP8CttQpJH2p8YMNIGQzXzdSj3ZwjoYxfUNQU
  7. very nice I can recommend the Baader MPCC if you are looking for a replacement. I have had very little issue getting it to work with both my 130PDS and my 200p
  8. Hi everyone Here are two more from last nights session. Lowers nebula, one I have had on my list for a while but not seen imaged much (now I know why, its very faint). really nedd to get a lot more data on this. The second is the Iris Nebula. Both had 20x300s using the QHY8L Colour CCD Thanks in advance
  9. I am @650mm trying to hit a few before they go behind the house to my south-west
  10. Thank you. Est SQ around 20-21, Class 3 Bortle. I do however have a few caravan parks and villige not too far away so can get some pollution from there until late at night when most of the lights go out.
  11. Hi everyone First night out this year so took the oppotunity to have pretty late night and bag a few targets. Had to sort a few minor issues but pretty happy with the nights session. All taken with the 130PDS, HEQ5 and QHY8L Maximum intergration time for any image was 1 hour and 300s exposures Thanks in advance Mark
  12. Hi all After finally getting some nicer weather I finally got my first light and first comet of the year. 7x120s exposures, QHY8L OSC CCD Skywatcher 130PDS HEQ5 Thanks in advance Mark
  13. I have only been playing around with tinkercad so far but I have found that it has a metric thread generator built in. I am currently in the process of designing an adapter for my 130PDS so I can mount the MPCC inside the focuser tube. For this I needed T2 and M54 Threads, the generator only goes upto 50mm but the T2 threads have so far worked after a few trial and errors to get the correct internal thread sizing correct. Nothing stopping you using tinkercad for the threads and then importing them into fusion for the rest of the design. As a side not regarding print beds, my ender pro came with a magnetic bad which has been a godsend. the fact that you can just peel the bed of and then peel the print away makes life a lot easier. I have cut a number of mirrors for when I want to have a glossy surface as the magnetic bed leaves a matt one. I have found that a small amount of IPA applied to the bed and print make the print pop right off (you can almost hear it cracking and releasing as the IPA is evaporating)
  14. Ha the lack of coffee, I must have had my crystal ball out. I have just had 3 powercuts in the space of an hour and short of slicing the gcode to try and restart the print I am going to have to-do the entire thing. With that said, I am going to take into account what you have all said and go back to the drawing board in regards the design and try and simplify it a little whilst making it a little more modular.
  15. I had thought about printing them as desperate section however figured it would be stronger and easier integrated into the main body, this I may be wrong about and as this is a prototype it can be changed in the final print if needed. The supports should come away with little issue. I may do this in the final design but I am still wondering if bolting it has any real extra strength, I would thought printing it as a single section would be more right, by all means tell me if I am wrong as still new to this. I do like the idea of it being able to slide. Once this is all printed and I have everything set for the final design things may change.
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