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About dyfiastro

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    Star Forming

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    Photography, astronomy and astrophotography
  • Location
    Borth, Wales.
  1. I have only been playing around with tinkercad so far but I have found that it has a metric thread generator built in. I am currently in the process of designing an adapter for my 130PDS so I can mount the MPCC inside the focuser tube. For this I needed T2 and M54 Threads, the generator only goes upto 50mm but the T2 threads have so far worked after a few trial and errors to get the correct internal thread sizing correct. Nothing stopping you using tinkercad for the threads and then importing them into fusion for the rest of the design. As a side not regarding print beds, my ender pro came with a magnetic bad which has been a godsend. the fact that you can just peel the bed of and then peel the print away makes life a lot easier. I have cut a number of mirrors for when I want to have a glossy surface as the magnetic bed leaves a matt one. I have found that a small amount of IPA applied to the bed and print make the print pop right off (you can almost hear it cracking and releasing as the IPA is evaporating)
  2. Ha the lack of coffee, I must have had my crystal ball out. I have just had 3 powercuts in the space of an hour and short of slicing the gcode to try and restart the print I am going to have to-do the entire thing. With that said, I am going to take into account what you have all said and go back to the drawing board in regards the design and try and simplify it a little whilst making it a little more modular.
  3. I had thought about printing them as desperate section however figured it would be stronger and easier integrated into the main body, this I may be wrong about and as this is a prototype it can be changed in the final print if needed. The supports should come away with little issue. I may do this in the final design but I am still wondering if bolting it has any real extra strength, I would thought printing it as a single section would be more right, by all means tell me if I am wrong as still new to this. I do like the idea of it being able to slide. Once this is all printed and I have everything set for the final design things may change.
  4. Sorry, Yes there is contact with the bed. In fact when printing I have rotated it 90 degrees so that it stands on its end. I worked this allowed for the least amount of supports needed and saved around 3 hours compared to having it on the bed as it is. The image above was taken whilst I was rotating it around to be able to the underside and made life easier as I was not looking through the base mesh. Depending on the slicing software, it will automatically place the object in contact with the bed when imported.
  5. Thought I would share a design I am in the process of printing. I wanted something that I could mount usb hubs, electronic project boxes as well as my guide scope and second scope / dslr on the back of my 130PDS The current setup has a set of home made scope rings for the converted 9x50 guide scope attached via a seperate spare scope ring and everything else under the mount on the pier. This I am hoping will allow me to say a little extra weight as well as use shorter cables and keep everything a little more tidy. Its setup so I can use it along with another dovetail piggybacked to the scope (which is the current setup) or indeed use it without one if rigid enough. As you can see there are holes on the side sections for putting through cables but the main mounting holes I will drill in afterwards I am in the process of printing this out in black PLA using 24% infill for the main of the print but 70% for the centre section where it will be drilled and attached to the rings or dovetail Thanks in advance, will get a photo of the finished item once it finishes (19h print) Edit: If anyone is interested in using this, here is a link for the required STL files. Mark
  6. Hi everyone After a fair amount of cloud early on I managed to get out for a session this evening. I was fighting a combination of haze and moon light however I did manage to get this which I am pretty happy with. 8x120s Skywatcher 130PDS, HEQ5, QHY8L Stacked in DSS and processed using Pixinsight and Photoshop Thanks in advance Mark
  7. Hi everyone Managed to get out for the first time in what seems like a lifetime this evening A combination of cloud early on and haze towards the end cut down on imaging time. My electronic focuser decided to go on the blink aswell which did not help matters, that will get sorted tomorrow but did mean some images are not as sharp as I would like. I focused on getting multiple targets to dial in a few things and trying to keep integration times to below 1 hour per image. Getting Comet C2017 T2 Panstarrs for the first time this year was also a welcome bonus considering the moon was out in full glory by this time. I had 3D printed a rear cap to prevent stray light from getting behind the primary which seems to have worked and I also printed a light baffle that goes at the front, will be interesting to see if this actually does anything positive. I need to take the primary out at some point as well to get the dimensions to create a small baffle around the edge of the primary mirror.
  8. Thats fine but I just wanted to let you know from my findings. I intended to run mine overnight so was a major issue for me. Have you setup Octoprint? If not I can highly recommend it if you have a spare Pi3 around. You can print over the network, remotely monitor it via webcam,create timelapses and allsorts Another nice feature is that you can cancel parts of a print. If you have two or three different bits printing on the best at once and one fails, instead of having to stop the entire print you can just cancel that particular part.
  9. https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3
  10. That as far as I can tell is the latest version. Unless they have created an updated firmware but not updated their github then there is no way of telling unless you run the test. I updated the firmware anyway just in case and have since changed the board anyway so a non-issue now
  11. I think on the stock firmware there is a about printer section in the menus. this may well give the firmware version
  12. Even the latest firmware has the same issue as far as I am aware. I have not seen anything that says its been fixed. That video was from May this year and the last update on their firmware was 2018 according to their github
  13. Not exactly. They have enabled thermal protection but not set it up correctly and some features have not been enabled. The basic setup is there but not effective. Most places recommend that the firmware is updated for this reason. If you have a version of the ender 3 that has a bootloader then its a simple case of compiling a new firmware and uploading it. If you have a version without a bootloader like my new ender 3 Pro then you have to use an arduino or flasher to burn a bootloader first so you can then update the firmware
  14. The source code for the marlin firmware that they are using has not been updated since Last year. https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/blob/master/Ender-3 Firmware (Marlin)/Ender-3 (includes power failure resume- English)/Marlin/Configuration.h
  15. The stock ender 3 has a low temperature setup that works but nothing that prevents thermal runaway if for some reason the thermistor stops working during heatup. Flashing the firmware to either the updated "Vanilla" Marlin firmware which creality base theirs off or others that can be compiled and installed sort this issue out
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