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Uranium235

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Everything posted by Uranium235

  1. Its that time again! Im expecting greatness this year! (as usual!) Please use this thread to showcase your best images captured during 2023. Just one post per member but you can include up to 5 images if you want. The thread is for all imagers, both novices and advanced. Please keep details to a minimum - scope and camera possibly along with a few comments if required. The thread needs to be packed with images so please don't respond to the postings. The previous years showcase thread(s) can be found here: https://stargazerslounge.com/forum/203-imaging-showcase-threads/
  2. You do get the occasional duff sammy (ive had one lemon out of 5), but getting the focus mark on the L (as mentioned above) and doing away with baynoet fittings can do a lot for you. The only reason why shims work for me is becuase the plate that fixes the T-Ring to the camera is square - which means I can adjust each corner individially, and to an exact distance (using feeler guages). I'd have to repliate the plate design to suit all CMOS/CCD cameras, easier said than done!
  3. It is possible to fix it, but the adjustment is so small Im not sure a shim thin enough exists...lol The top left corner is intrafocal, so (try to picure this) that corner needs to be "pushed out" (so to speak). Though thats easier said than done. Its going to be something like 0.01mm or something ridiculous like that (maybe smaller). If i had the tools, Id build a tilt adaptor to fix it - one based on shims rather than inaccurate screws,that way you can measure out the adjustments exactly. I kinda have the concept, but its needs thinking time. Whether its the lens or the fittings, it can be tweaked. But.... if it aint broke (and youre happy) - dont fix it!
  4. Dont forget this option: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-samyang-lens-to-m48-adapter.html It takes you away from inaccurate bayonet fittings, to an all solid, all-threaded connection. You'll need it at f2 Plus, it leaves space for a proper FW (or EFW).
  5. Just keeping the gear ticking over with an hour on M101 More of a corner test than a serious image... However... im my time away Ive noticed just how bad the night sky has become, there is an unnecessary amount of space junk orbiting this planet now. Not one sub was left unblemished. Mr Musk... you have a lot to answer for.
  6. Its that time once again! Please excuse the lateness, work has been crazy. Please use this thread to showcase your best images captured during 2022. Just one post per member but you can include up to 5 images if you want. The thread is for all imagers, both novices and advanced. Please keep details to a minimum - scope and camera possibly along with a few comments if required. The thread needs to be packed with images so please don't respond to the postings. The previous years showcase thread(s) can be found here: https://stargazerslounge.com/forum/203-imaging-showcase-threads/
  7. Smashing little camera you have there, it will do a lot for you - plus is uber sensitive in Ha. Images from a 314L+ and 80ED: These are like 10 years old, so forgive the processing I did back then (it was a bit harsh...lol)
  8. No prob mate Youre right on the micro focuser, you cant really do without it! Put this on the shopping list too, its of my own design (or should is say "concept"..lol.. another chap did the CNC) : https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-samyang-lens-to-m48-adapter.html
  9. A quick dash across the sky: Hang on... thats upside down (well.. it is to me anyways!).. 😅
  10. Whatever the final choice is, I can strongly recommend that you first look at, and inspect examples of each optic. And when I say inspect, I really mean it. Ignore whats in the middle and go straight to the corners at 200%. If its eggy, move on (though that can sometimes be down to skill). Take into account the size of the sensor, what you want is something that can comfortably deliver pinpoints over ~22mm diagonal (roughly APS-C). Also (though it mostly applies to telescopes) check what glass is in the telescope. If its not fluorite or FPL53, again... move on (dont accept anything less). Im usually quite suspicious of manufacturers who dont (or wont) reveal exactly what glass is in there.
  11. If the light has passed through glass, each filter needs to be refocused to maintain optimum focus and/or field flatness over the largest area possible. This is true of any lens or refractor. Ive found the only time parfocal actually works is through a newt, with no corrector in place. Because the only thing the light has hit on the way to your sensor, is a mirror. I wouldnt worry about it too much for now, since youll be having so much fun in Ha
  12. The auto focus sensor for newer models is located on pixels that serve as imaging and focusing pixels. https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/learn/education/topics/article/2018/July/Canon-Autofocus-Series-Dual-Pixel-CMOS-AF-Explained/Canon-Autofocus-Series-Dual-Pixel-CMOS-AF-Explained The below list is not exhaustive, but the consensus ive read elsewere says they should be avoided for AP in general. Sure, theres a chance you can fix it in processing, but its better that it isnt there in the first place surely? Canon mirrorless cameras with dual pixel autofocus: Canon EOS M100 Canon EOS M200 Canon EOS M50 Canon EOS M6 Canon EOS M6 Mark II Canon EOS M5 Canon EOS RP (full-frame sensor) Canon EOS R (full-frame sensor) Canon EOS Ra (full-frame sensor) Canon DSLR cameras with dual pixel autofocus: Canon EOS Rebel SL3 aka Canon EOS 250D aka Canon EOS Kiss X10 Canon EOS Rebel SL2 aka Canon EOS 200D aka Canon EOS Kiss X9 Canon EOS Rebel T7i aka Canon EOS 800D aka Canon EOS Kiss X9i Canon EOS 77D aka Canon EOS 9000D Canon EOS 70D Canon EOS 80D Canon EOS 90D Canon EOS 7D Mark II Canon EOS 6D Mark II (full-frame sensor) Canon EOS 5D Mark IV (full-frame sensor) Canon EOS-1D X Mark II (full-frame sensor) Canon EOS-1D X Mark III (full-frame sensor)
  13. Ahh, so youve yet to ramp up your guiding - I get it. Once youve cracked 15min subs you get sense of satisfaction As for long vs short subs... Im not really going to open the whole debate on lucky imaging as both ways have their merits and detractors. But the main reason for going longer is the S/N ratio of each sub would be better, meaning that the fainter details... those fluffy bits of Ha and dust contain less noise to start off with. You can still generate a big stack if you want (40+subs), but if the noise isnt there in the first place, you dont have to work so hard to remove it. When you start chasing more difficult things, you may find what you are trying to process is barely above the background level (eg: the IFN), so its not just long, but lots as well. Earlier CMOS camers didnt do so well with long subs, but now the amp glow problem has been removed it means you can go without darks and stack on the fly - to assess data as it comes in (which is how I work) Major downside to it, one plane, gust of wind, car headlight etc, can ruin a long sub easily.
  14. Hmmm yeah you will need to take a look at it at some point. But I dont think it might be the AF pixels now (unles theyre different on your camera) as your banding is different (heaviest in red channel), I found an image that demonstrates the DP issue (from a 750d): Hope you get it sorted 👍
  15. Just a question, have you tired removing that verical banding in the image? (does it calibrate out?) I had a bash at it with noels actions, but it wont shift. Its one reason why ive avioded the new generation of sensors that have dual pixels for focusing (which this camera has), as they are the cause of this (seemingly unfixable) banding.
  16. Just out of interest, do you guide? Im just wondering why, with your camera (zero amp glow), you arent pushing the boat out a bit more with the sub length? For narrowband I'd be doubling or tripling the expoure time as a minimum. Its just, if the previous hurdles of cmos (ie: amp glow) have been removed, I (personally) would be caning that sensor for all its worth in terms of sub length. Or at least taking each sub to the point of whatever maximum exposure the optics, or location will alllow. Try 300s or even 450, you can still generate a decent stack in one hour (8 subs is enough to work with sigma clipping routines, but 16 is better). Youve obviously got the scope nailed because you done some decent images with it - but it will give you more if you give it more time on target. Its not just the main target that needs to be clean, but all the fluff that surrounds it youre only gonna get that with long subs mate. If theres a technial limitation of the camera, id be interested to know because I was eyeing up the mono version.
  17. Had a gap in the clouds last night, so I tested the concept of CCD/DSLR imaging. Just an hour L on the CCD, but less on the DSLR (about 30min). ISO kept deliberately low (400) to help retain star colour. Its not narrowband, so youre never going to get the same level of contrast, its a setup more suited to for chasing dust in a dark place - not a light polluted patio 😅 No idea what went on in the bottom left, im pretty sure its either a flare, or a glint off something shiny. Hit lucky with the alignment, with the DSLR being able to cover the FOV of the CCD despite being off-centre. However, this will need to be addressed at a later date when I switch to identical cameras. Anyways, I'll have another bash at processing it later, id prefer the stars to be smaller (I did no work on those), and the background to be a bit flatter.
  18. Meet my new friends, Des and Troy.... put them together.. they destroy 😅
  19. Just a quick run last night to test the new CCD CLS filter in preparation for the main event. No calibration, just a quick 3 panel stitch and crop.... picked up a bit of cloud damage on the right side (by that time the moon was coming up anyways). 8x180x3 - Optolong CCD CLS filter (I chose that exactly because it is 2mm thick, I want to standardise my filters for the sake of easier focusing) Pixel peepers, feel free to inspect I think youll find everything in order
  20. Waiting to try that part of the sky this year... ive got a plan for it... not long now.... not long
  21. Totally agree with @vlaivthat the compression ring is most likely to blame. I've long complained that there is no industry standard distance for safety undercuts and compression rings.... so most of the time they "pop" out at an angle when tightened up. If possible, do away with it and try to find a threaded solution. Opening up your lens cell is a bad idea, it should only be performed by an expert, with an appropriate optical bench to test it on. I certainly wouldn't try it, unless you're willing to accept that you might break it.
  22. Totally correct, a state of burning was achieved, which is a major step towards a reaction that is self sustained.
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