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rotatux

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About rotatux

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    Star Forming

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    France
  1. That's quite good (I largely prefer the second one). Is expectedly easier with 300s subs rather than 30s :)
  2. Yes I have seen this being reported too. But in my own experience I didn't encounter this problem. Or, I may have found ghosts around "Navi" (see here) but these were really intended Maybe there's one detail that keeps me away from ghosting: I usually mount my LP filter after the SWCC in the imaging train, i.e. between the CC and the camera. So that's glass which could also filter out reflections from the CC after all. YMMV.
  3. They are perfect for me (on my work monitor). I especially like that color balance of yours between red and blueish-white, and that stupendous amount of detail for a 2-pane mosaic
  4. Yes fantastic lens, not only for AP, it's also a killer for portraits I have "lab" tested that Samy and there's a bit of CA and coma wide open at f1.8 in sides and corners, but it's not a lot, rather like what remains after closing 1 or 2 stops most old manual lenses. It's just that for 1st light I didn't want to waste the shot and closed to F/2.8, which is enough to control it as you see.
  5. I have been suffering too long from bad weather, so I'm a bit rusty at AP. Any way this challenge is an excuse to post the only nice something I could get recently (taken on 2019-08-29). I like that region, it's rich with emission and reflection nebulas, open and globular clusters, and even a planetary nebula (though you can't guess it in the photo). It's also about the lowest I could shoot at the milky way this season, without getting too much light pollution. From middle left to upright through center: Kaus Borealis (star), M28 (glob), M8 (laguna), M20 (trifid), M21, M23 (open). Also some minor globulars SW of laguna can be guessed as fuzzy stars. Gear: Olympus E-PL6 with Christmas' Samyang 85mm/1.8 first light at f/2.8 and dydimium filter on Omegon EQ-300 tracking RA Capture: 16 lights × 60s × 1000 ISO, master bias Site: deep country 26km from Limoges, France Sky: average to good Processing: Regim 3.4, Fotoxx 12.01+
  6. "Best" would be highly subjective. But I can add a suggestion. Most of my dev work is done in a lightweight vi clone called vile (having used it for nearly 30 years). However I found in recent years that Python work is more easily done in IdleX, which is an extension of the Idle editor (which comes with stock Python). It has builtin shell, editor, both with completion, documentation viewer linked to them, and ability to execute fragments of files being edited. Its editor lacks the much-loved vi feel (for me), and is instead a rather neutral notepad-like more suited to anyone.
  7. CVAstroAlign. I even used it to align native-resolution frames (of my MFT sensor) of the moon, not just videos. However, I miss ROI selection and de-rotation from it. Thinking about writing my own tool for that tasks, or maybe patching it...
  8. Shame on me, I don't know what I've weighted... I re-checked this weekend and it's 3.3 kg without aperture cover. After seeing specs for the SW I had a doubt that the Celestron variant would be heavier, but that's eventually not the case.
  9. Not such a frequent subject. Pluging into the zoomed image to see the details in M106 is a delight.
  10. As always it depends on your choices of desired targets and interpretation of "portability": * Do you want deep-sky objects ? moon / planetary ? globulars ? A MAK would be good for moon, planetary and globulars, but rather not deep-sky (at least visually). A short-focal-ratio refractor or reflector (such as your 130PDS) would be better for deep-sky. * On which criteria do you judge your current setup not portable enough ? Is it size : a Mak or small frac would be shorter, at the expense of luminosity; Is it weight : the 130PDS is ~4 kg and my Celestron MAK 127 is ~7 kg, so if you want lighter it must be a smaller MAK (such as 90/1250), a medium fast wide-angle refractor, or a long narrow refractor. * You want to keep your current mount : fine, a manual alt-az is probably the lightest mount your could find, except for table-top dobson or EQ(1) mounts. Depending on your choice of instrument (i.e. if it's enough small and lighweight), you could also examine the possibility of solid tripod + small dobson (such as orion sky scanner series).
  11. Yes I'm often (wheather permitting) using a 130PDS on a Nexstar SLT mount, an alt-az one just to be clear. It's perfectly usable for visual, and a bit limited for astrophoto: My copy of this mount is a bit erratic and only allows 20s subs most of the time, 30s up to 40s when lucky. Other copies or mounts may be better, YMMV You can turn the tube in the rings to place the focuser straight upside, to line up the field of view to be more natural (up/down and left/right wise) for Alt-Az and frac/cass users. Only drawback is the vixen plate screws forbid the direct insertion of the plate in the mount: the plate must slide in the mount so one of the screws blocks the operation. I simply unscrew the front side of the plate and gently insert it (with the tube weight on my hand) before re-screwing it, trying not to change the plate alignment. If you need more info about this config just ask (I thought a few others would be using the same, but apparently not the case). EDIT: after reading the whole thread you (OP) appear to not have the same mount (and potential problems) as me; Your mount problably has better tracking than mine, so keep hope. However keep in mind the tube length of a 130PDS will prevent going to zenith or high altitudes, just like me, unless you use a long vixen plate and use it to offset the tube in the mount (with additional counterweights to compensate).
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