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About rotatux

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    Star Forming

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  1. Hello Kaelig and welcome here. I'm sure you'll find a cheerful hand to help here, just as I got a few years ago. Not answering directly, but just a few remarks... 1) I am afraid CEM25P production has stopped, if I understood correctly, so it's getting difficult to get anywhere. 2) CLS ≠ neodymium; neodymium or "moon and skyglow" are a very wide band, glass-tinted kind of filter, which efficiency I found has dropped these past years with new generation led-based lighting (but is still good depending on your conditions); while CLS is a kind of interferometric filter, between wide and narrow band, much like UHC but more dedicated to cameras rather than visual. (won't comment on others)
  2. IMO You should instead really try stopping down with the lens' own diaphragm : I have tried step-down rings too, surely they cut down on light (affect aperture geometrically, if I can say like this) but mostly don't enhance optical properties as much as the native diaphragm (I was still having coma and CA in sides and corners, shooting RGB on OSC camera)
  3. Threads are different between T2 (×0.75mm) and M42 (×1mm); I can screw my T2 adapter in full only on half of my M42 lenses, others only screw half or third of the "bayonet". I have the Vivitar equivalent of your lens and like you can only screw part of a T2 adapter on it (but I'm using this as lens2scope to put oculars, not for camera) In doubt you would buy a specific M42 adapter for your camera.
  4. I advise in favor of the Baader adapter : https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p3676_TS-Optics-Optics-T2-Adaptor-Ring-for-Cameras-with-Micro-Four-Thirds-bayonet--Panasonic--Olympus-.html (This one is from TS as I can't find the Baader page for it atm.) Without the extension it allows to rack the focuser out a bit more to reach focus, avoiding much of the known problem of focus tube protuberance in the fov. Also with the SW ComaCorr it allows for several reduction factors (w/ or w/o ext, w/ or w/o M48 filter). BTW you could find this useful too : https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p3504_TS-Optics-Adaptor-from-M48x0-75-to-T2---low-profile.html
  5. Very well explained ! Complete and precise enough that I could fill in the few little gaps. I still have to work out how to adapt to my color-aberrated stars, but for the most part it does the job quite nicely.
  6. Only my 2nd attempt at Perseus Double Cluster with that tube. I had this in stock since last year but didn't put online. Now the more time passes the more I like it, and no good night since, so here it is. Gear: Olympus E-PL6 with Skywatcher 130PDS and SWCC at 600mm/4.62 and dydimium filter on Omegon EQ-300 tracking RA Capture: 22 lights × 20s × 2000 ISO, master bias, at 1.28"/px Site: deep country 26km from Limoges, France Processing: Regim 3.4, Fotoxx 12.01+
  7. The puff looks like not moving with the stars or clouds, maybe something has landed on your camera cover dome/pane
  8. Difference is far from obvious to me... Depth looks the same, as well as colors. But they are not the same scale so there may be much more details in the second one. Both good shots given the respective exposures, maybe too large a framing (reduce 25-30% ?), but be proud of them :)
  9. Only partly true: did you try a light pollution filter ? I think of the so-called moon & skyglow kind, aka didymium / neodymium; It is cheap, and filters out enough that color balance is a bit better; And you can mount a astro-2" one on a lens with an adapter. For mounting directly on-lens, search for a used or new redhancer / red enhancer model (same filter material, usually for capturing autumn colors). Just a detail about "histogram clearing the left edge" technique, it works but you need to account for the fact that on many cameras the histogram is an average of 3 channels, so you need to make enough space on the left that all 3 channels are (heuristically) cleared at the same time. Edit: and of course the most efficient against LP is Narrow Band imaging but you have to deal with much longer exposures (and hardware setup to achieve it).
  10. That's quite good (I largely prefer the second one). Is expectedly easier with 300s subs rather than 30s :)
  11. Yes I have seen this being reported too. But in my own experience I didn't encounter this problem. Or, I may have found ghosts around "Navi" (see here) but these were really intended Maybe there's one detail that keeps me away from ghosting: I usually mount my LP filter after the SWCC in the imaging train, i.e. between the CC and the camera. So that's glass which could also filter out reflections from the CC after all. YMMV.
  12. They are perfect for me (on my work monitor). I especially like that color balance of yours between red and blueish-white, and that stupendous amount of detail for a 2-pane mosaic
  13. Yes fantastic lens, not only for AP, it's also a killer for portraits I have "lab" tested that Samy and there's a bit of CA and coma wide open at f1.8 in sides and corners, but it's not a lot, rather like what remains after closing 1 or 2 stops most old manual lenses. It's just that for 1st light I didn't want to waste the shot and closed to F/2.8, which is enough to control it as you see.
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