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  1. Past hour
  2. Thanks for the advice, decided to take the plunge and ordering a HEQ5 Pro from FLO. It seems popular, hold its value and will be a good base to work up from. Big step, but hey sometimes you just need to do it. Very excited
  3. Hi, I read a lot on the forum but I couldn't find what I'm looking for. I would like a good eyepiece for my 130 pds 650 skywatcher. I wear glasses and i would like a focal that allows me to better observe the planets. The small skywatcher has a cheap 25mm, the budget is from 200 to 300 euros (about 300 dollars) thank you!
  4. I'd say buy the 6se, only because it will make me feel better about spending lots on a new mount Have you found any good places around Norwich to do your viewing from, away from the glow of the city? I'll keep an eye out for a big orange tube in the countryside.
  5. Thanks everyone! I've inspected it and I believe this is the case. It has the specs on it so hopefully I'll be able to get it from Amazon. I was hoping this was it, but mine still moves, so it's likely dead.
  6. omikron

    Hello world

    I've been browsing this forum for a long time now and finally decided to join. Just to say hello. Italy here, Stay safe.
  7. Today
  8. So last night was my first night with my equipment. Avx mount edge HD 8. Starsense. Came with 40mm ep. And also have 10mm delos. I saw Jupiter and Saturn was cool as hell. Seemed like the visual was hazy I guess I would say in out in out. Never a steady sharp focus. Wasn't exactly a dark spot. But I also really didn't know what planetary nebula or other cool stuff to look for. I was learning initial set up and polar align and finding Polaris because I could never clearly see ursa minor. But I even saw Pluto which was just a dot. But ow having this equipment and getting past the first time with it is there any tips tricks or anything I should now. Focused seem to snap with every couple turns.
  9. The above was based on a quick look at my C5, which uses just screws (no nuts) to hold the front section on to the tube. Reading through the link posted earlier, it looks as though at least some OTAs use nuts on the inside as well, so the above wouldn’t work in those cases (while you could possibly use a spot of glue to retain the nuts in place for reassembly, you risk them dropping onto something fragile during disassembly). regards, Tim
  10. Hi David I owned the the Qhy163c for just under a year, but due to life getting in the way I only produced 1 broadband image, plus this one, with it before i sold it on. Maybe it was my skies (i was shooting from our new house, which has higher LP, as opposed to the old family home which has better skies, i dunno) but i didn't find the 163c to be that much of a leap over the D5300. Part of that is down to just how good the D5300 is. It's modded and has very low noise compared to the Canons, so it pushes well above it's weight. I absolutely love it and i'll never sell it. I only picked up the 163c on a whim, as it was available at a good price, but i wasn't overly impressed with the noise profile. Every camera is different though, and a lot depends on your skies too, so don't be put off by my experience at all. Some imagers get incredible results with OSC cameras. Richard Sweeney (who i think is in Cork?) is one obvious example. HTH.
  11. Looking good Adam Crazy to think this is just 20 mins per pane, taken in bright skies. Just imagine what you'll be able to do with this come next month and the return of Astro Dark!
  12. I just checked out your website too Brendan. Very impressive may I say. I was especially drawn to your FSQ130 Seagull nebula image, which is spectacular by the way. It's an object i've always wanted to shoot (along with Rho Ophiuchi) but alas won't be happening anytime soon due to altitude and horizon views. Nice work!
  13. Making my first surface mount PCB and the TSOT23-8 IC has these markings only. There are no beveled edges or cut-outs/indents to indicate pin 1 and the manufacturer states a dot is used. As you can see it's tiny , with 0.65mm pin spacing and I can only assume the arrow indicates pin 1. Web searches haven't helped, so before I attempt to hand solder it on the board it would be nice to know for sure. If anyone can confirm it's pin 1 it would be helpful. It's a LTC4365, overvoltage, undervoltage and reverse supply protection controller and thought it's worth checking it out as protection for an imaging setup against faulty supplies which could be costly. It's only available in this package size. Alan
  14. I don’t know how the older OTA’s are put together, but it might be easier to remove the whole front end section with the corrector still in place (not sure of the correct term) by undoing the screws around the outside edge of the tube (check if they are plain screws, or have nuts on the inside first though). That way you don’t risk misaligning the corrector or any of the packers etc. (you will still need alignment marks on the tube and end section so that you put it back in the same alignment, but at least it’s only a matter of aligning the screws with the right holes). You might not be able to clean right to the absolute edge of the corrector this way, but it may well be good enough and the overall task will be simpler. Regards, Tim
  15. Hi mate Thanks for sharing! The data is good, very good in fact. I couldn't resist having a pop myself. My rough workflow (if i can remember fully, i had a few craft beers to keep me hydrated throughout ) was as follows: 1. Gradient reduction on the Oiii (using APP). I didn't bother doing it on the Ha. If there is a gradient in the Ha, i couldn't see it. 2. DDP Stretch and crop both stacks. 3. Topaz DeNoise AI ran on both stacks. Some cleanup in PS using the Spot Healing Brush. 4. Run starnet on both the DeNoised Ha and Oiii. Then stretch the Oiii a bit further. 5. Add Ha to Red, Oiii to Blue, then run Carboni's 'Synthesize Green Channel' action, all in PS. This formed the basis for the nebula itself. From here on it's too hard to list exactly what i did (i blame the 8% IPA, lol). It was basically a combination of using the Denoised Ha image as Luminance for the stars, along with a HOO version used for star colour only, plus some cosmetic correction on some of the stars on the inside of the nebula. I also used a lesser-stretched Ha layer as Luminance for some of the really big stars, and then at the very end i did a pass of star reduction in Images Plus. It was a challenging image to process, but lots of fun too, so thanks again for sharing it.
  16. Worthy of its own thread methinks.....
  17. I remember seeing a thread over here that discussed said scope but can't remember actual detail (good or bad).
  18. If you can handle 8mm of eye relief its hard to beat a 10mm BCO- combine this with the Baader 2.25 Barlow and you have an awesome combo. I use it frequently. If the 10mm ortho has too short ER a 12.5mm Fuji ortho is another excellent and well used eye piece and barlows well. Upping the wallet ante reveals the Vixen SLV's and upping it more the Vixen 3.4mm HR is the best EP I own for lunar/planetary. ps... I typically avoid 82 deg + eye pieces for lunar/planetary, the 70ish and under offer much for this purpose.
  19. Hi, No, the two images are from last lunar cycle - am looking forward to using your advice, thanks again! CS Peter
  20. WOW......Well at least I have evidence that it can be done. Running PHD2 through the Handset is an idea I haven't thought of....I'm so used to running everything through EQMOD for so many years It doesn't cross my mind NOT to use it, but the evidence is right there....Do you use the PC Direct Mode or did you put the other Synscan Relay V4, Version 4.2 firmware update in your Handset?
  21. Personally.., (and this is my own opinion) I always felt the DM6 to be over-hyped and overpriced for what it actually is, does and how its packaged. I ended up with one of Larry Patriarca's last UniStar Deluxe mounts after the DM6 and I could not be happier - well until the Rowan AZ100, of course Best.., bsdsgl84
  22. You'd need to fit a dovetail onto the base, where the two tripod-mounting threads are, and then yes, it would fit onto pretty much any astro mount, AZ5 included. I've had two or three different Vixen-type dovetails on it in the past, to fit onto my EQ5 or Tecnosky Cubo alt-az mount. Very simple to do. Hope that helps. Cheers, Simon
  23. Yesterday
  24. As an update to this, I managed to get the python versions correct, and have the neural net training on my own data. I have about 5 images that I de-starred and set as the training data, and have run 30 "epochs" so far. Aiming for around 100 before I retry the crescent nebula again. Anyone that can help, even with unedited, good examples of diffraction spikes that I can edit would be great!
  25. I took a few images with my canon 450 with my Dob but it was standing on an EQ Platform which allowed me longer exposure times. Here’s one, I can’t remember the exposure but I think it was 10 seconds, not very good. You’ll be able to get some good moon images though.
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