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  1. Past hour
  2. Thanks. I add all the images in one stack, with flat frames and bias frames, We have found darks not beneficial with Alt-AZ mounts. I have not tried layering stacked images yet. Adding short exposures helps with brighter parts of objects, example M42 with 60s and 10s subs, all stacked in one process, after stretching with ST, using photoshop express I can reduce highlights and increase shadows to bring out good detail in the core. Cheers Nige.
  3. Cheers, Dave. A bit of a mixed bag of intent, to be honest. 1. 1.25" FR photo - 2" FR visual/photo 2. 1.25" ebay cheapies - 2" Antares 3. 1.25" on webcam directly - 2" either on EP for visual, or on the front of a T-2" or 1.25"-2" adaptor with webcam behind. I've got a 2x 1.25" barlow coming. The 1.25" reducers are intended pretty much only for webcam/lunar on my dob - I get <1/8th of a degree TFOV without one. I've got a couple, whether 1.25" or C-mount. Trying it in my EPs was just for fun. The 2" FR for sale is an Antares. Originally thought it would be for visual only on my 35mm EP to try to get more FOV out of the dob, but I'm not convinced I've got enough illumination to light it up, and unsure how the EP would perform at f/3.8. I'm not intending it to go near the f/5. I've since thought it might be possible to install the 2" FR at the front of a T to 2" of 1.25" to 2" nosepiece, and have filter/cam on the back of that. So it's really just trying to understand if a 0.5x 2" reducer is going to perform with my 2" 35mm EP for as-wide-a-field-as-possible in my f/7.6 dob, or if that's a non-starter due to illumination or EP performance at f/3.8-ish. Then to work out whether a 2" FR in front of 1.25" cam/filters would work too - that might just be a convenience thing, if I'm changing swapping out cameras or whatnot.
  4. Skywatcher Evostar 102 / EQ3-2 £339 £289 Skywatcher Evostar 120 / EQ3-2 £399 £349
  5. I've heard of a beta module called dnaLinearFit that might do the trick. I think it's linked on the PixInsight forums. Edit: found it and go to the Matching Intensity section
  6. Jupiter two moon shadow transit Couple more solar
  7. Comet C/2016 U1 (NEOWISE) imaged in the dawn of January 5th 2017, to a few days of be unobservable because its approach to Sun. In this image the comet shines in magnitude 8 and throw a ionic tail of half degree long. Could be one of the latest images of comet, besides of the probabilities of desintegration, wont be observable from Earth because remain in conjuction with Sun until April, then will be too faint. Click on image for enlarge: GSO 8" f/3.8 & Canon EOS-100D (3 x 120 sec. at ISO-800, cropped) from Llosa de Ranes, Valencia (Spain) Entrada:
  8. Yes indeed. I was surprised to see rings instead of dots for the Ha 5nm indicating it's out of focus - I did think they would be parfocal so didn't check. Might be clear again tonight so I'll have another go and refocus. I too have been thinking about how to correct for variation in intensity and contrast when subtracting images. This is undoubtedly going to be tricky. Yes, the images must remain linear but I agree will most likely need matching in both intensity level (offset) and contrast (multiplier). There is supposed to be a PI function to do just this for matching up RGB images but I don't think I'll rely on that as previous usage has not proved very good on RGB. Forget what it's called ATM - PI naming doesn't quite match my logic Once I have good focus on both sets of images I plan to take the integrated images, match using StarAlignment then play with PixelMath to try to match them up. I think this is going to be interesting
  9. I think it's a hard question to answer really. Along the lines of Mike's suggestion above, if a large country house and observatory can be thrown in along with a circular height adjustable platform, then a 36" (or what the heck a 48" dob as fast as possible would be great. Obviously with a 20" finder scope for wide field. As it happens without the above, I feel my ideal scope is already in my grasp - in a manner of speaking. I have a mix of scopes which serves all my needs, ranging from 102mm-400mm, although I would like to convert my 16" to a truss system.
  10. I simply installed a GSO Dual-Focus 10:1 Crayford-Focuser on my 150mm F12 Maksutov. Works beautifully! Have fun, Dave
  11. I don't like high bars - can't reach my drink Appreciate comments, still learning and trying to get more from the data with a more natural feel. Going in the right direction. Paddy
  12. It's not up to much, but as it's the only image I managed to bring to "completion" in 2016 I'll post it. M33 in Trangulum. R+L, G+L, B+L (90 min each I think) no Ha (It was bloating out the red channel) gradient and vignetting removal, DDP and histogram stretch on each layer then final histo stretch and saturation boost. All done in AstroArt 5 TS Photoline 130 f/7 / Baader RGB filters / Trius 694, ASA DDM60 Pro, 5 min subs (LP). An object lesson on the futility of galaxy imaging from London.
  13. The answer is any scope....under dark skies.
  14. Thank you for detailed explanation.
  15. Great dusty area Paddy - You have captures it and processed it very well. You are setting the bar very high with all of your images that's for sure
  16. Cloud in Durham! You asked for it Congratulations on a very nice looking telescope.
  17. Nice disks and detail. Good to see some spots again
  18. This is looking very nice - Regardless of peoples' different processing and data, I think you can really appreciate the 3nm filter advantages.... A super job
  19. That's lovely!!! I always assumed that it was a little too low for me..... You've made a lovely job if it
  20. 'Pinched-Optics' is the name for the condition of the clips be too tight.This happens all-the-time coming out of the 'factory.' I just back them all off a bit. Then, in a cross-pattern, I tighten-down the retaining-bolts - slowly - until they're all 'snug' - but not tight or loose. Many things can cause this too - such as temperature variations changing the tension of all the bolts & screws from expansion/contraction of the metal. It works for me. And I'm one of those nuts who actually enjoys collimating telescopes! Fear not - Dave
  21. Having thought about it I'm feeling fairly confident that the best option is actually the standard 2" click lock as it avoids having to change the visual back to use the focal reducer. I actually cant see any advantages of the 3.25" click lock, only disadvantages. Anyone out there using these on an 11" SCT?
  22. Nice I used to have the 30mm in that range - lovely eyepiece. Nothing wrong with trying out lots of different eyepieces, especially if they don't cost too much.
  23. Not yet. I made the box on Sunday and I haven't had a chance to get the scope out. I didn't mark the focus positon and I tried to clean some of te dust too so I will need a new set of lights to try it out.
  24. Single frames as AS!2 is being silly and not stacking, I'll have a play later. Only 200mm as I lost track of time observing and the sun was rising, didn't have time to run indoors and find a longer lens!!
  25. Thanks for advice, but that's not the problem here. The focus knob is moving OKish. In cold temperatures, the rotation of the knob is more stiff than before, but that's probably due to the grease cooling down and also, all clearances are tighter. This issue is more about getting accurate focus, small movement of the knob translates to a big change in focus, which makes higher mags focusing really challenging, especially now in winter, when everything moves not so smooth as in summer. I do not prefer to go the clothespin route, I like more elegant solutions. But maybe I'll have to.
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