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I think you are probably right about the centre hole needing to be 12mm for the AZ EQ6 , but its not a big problem as drilling up from 10 to 12mm is fairly easy. (it is def 12mm for the NEQ6 ). It looks like the pier has been drilled for another mount. The bolt usually goes up through the pier head and adapter from below, you have only shown the top view but I assume there is a space under the top plate. Drilling fixing holes new to suit an adapter is rather more difficult so try to find the right adapter that fits the hole spacing you already have, there are places that can machine you a CNC adapter to your specifications if it is not an off the shelf match, so measure the hole pattern carefully. Getting the CNC adapter for the pier is worth the cost as it makes the whole setup much more stable and polar aligning is far smoother.
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Thanks for the tip, hopefully it works now.
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The same way, I suppose, lieutenant. It's a quantum procedure, with only integer values: all or nothing, but never inbetween. That's my guess, at least, and the reason why I find Linux so much simpler.
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Bob's Knobs For Sky-Watcher 200P...
Barry-W-Fenner replied to merlin100's topic in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
Hi Merlin. I also purchased the 30mm for my 200p I purchased some 5 x 25mm thumb screws for the primary mirror from ebay for £2.94 they were from China and took a couple of weeks to arrive but work perfectly. It might be worth checking the gauge of the secondary thumb screws. If they are also M5 you can get them at 30mm long on ebay for around £3 also. When I get chance I can check to see if one of my 25mm primary screws fit the secondary. That way we know it is also M5 Alternatively if anyone else knows the size that would be great. Yiu could buy 6 screws for around £6 and do both primary and secondary. Cheers -
I’m thinking of buying a cooled one-shot colour cmos camera. But I’m confused about the use of IR cut filters. On the one hand I understood the advantage of using a OSC camera or modded DSLR was that it meant the sensor also captured the near infrared. But I keep reading mention of the use of IR cut filters to reduce the amount of IR to the camera. I understand that in a refractor the IR may not focus in the same focal position to the visible light and thus result in bloated stars. On the other hand it looks as though one has to throw away an interesting part of the spectrum. What is the correct way to proceed - an IR cut filter or not and in which circumstances? -
Wanted Skytee 2, or similar Alt/Az mount sturdy enough for SW 200p, preferably with steel tripod. Happy to collect, based in Wiltshire but do travel regularly to Hertfordshire, or pay postage.
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If I understand your concern correctly, you can avoid the problem by just hanging the camera up side down. The oag prism will be on the bottom side of the camera.
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Grab and go, airline friendly second telescope
Tiago replied to Tiago's topic in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
Just to bring a (temporary) conclusion to this thread. Looking through local classifieds, I managed to get an ST-80 plus associated eyepieces, RDF and diagonal for 90 European Union credits. Considering I have guitar pedals way more expensive than that, I’m pretty happy, and I’m seeing that thing finding its way to the pelican case on my motorbike. Still saving for something fancy, though Had a brief first light when the clouds opened. Crappy afocal photo with a crappy old phone, but it is nice to have a refractor again. -
Getting some extended region there. When you stacked the images did you use kappa sigma clipping, it can help with star shapes.
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Hi Steve, I agree with the above because with the product you've linked you'll be using a battery with inverter to get to mains voltage, then you'll plug your mounts mains adaptor in which will then convert that mains voltage back to 12V DC. I'd go for a power tank which is 12v to begin with mate I'm not saying this is exactly the right thing, but maybe look at something like this? https://www.firstlightoptics.com/batteries-powerpacks/celestron-lithium-lifepo4-powertank-pro/ref/diyastro/ It's 13 Amp hours so you would need to check how much power your equipment draws. E.g. if it draws 5 Amps then it will last just shy of 3 hours but you maybe don't want to run the power supply completely flat as I think it effects how well it recharges and it's shelve life. EDIT: had another look the item you linked and it does seem to have one or two 12v ports as well as the mains sockets, but maybe check if it will be ok out in the damp for hours? It could be fine.
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Do you mean darks? Dithering is not going to address many of the things which flats fix, like vignetting and dust bunnies. Flats make a huge difference, generally. Tony
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We've recently moved to our new home, and the last 2 nights have been the first time I've managed to get out and start imaging. Skies are slightly darker than before, around Bortle 3.5. Location is better as well, I've more clear skies and can finally get objects like Orion. First on the hit list though is NGC 6960 and first light with my new GT81 IV. Absolutely LOVING this scope, amazing performance and it's making me want to switch to narrowband. Specs: GT81 IV 2020 with Flat 6A iii ASI 294MC Pro HEQ 5 Full capture details below. Really pleased with this for first light and in the future will concentrate on getting more subs over content. This one was 75 x 300s. NGC 6960 Western Veil Nebula 27-10-2020 by Andy Thilo, on Flickr
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..... oh, and just one more thing, Sir - as Lieutenant Columbo would say. Suppose you just want to update drivers in INDI how do you do that?
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What are you using to control your bresser hd camera, I don't see the capture software mentioned. -
I have purchased a steel pier and the plate should have been drilled to take an adapter for an AZ-EQ6 Mount. The missing adapter is another story, but the pier has been drilled with five 10mm diameter holes - see photo. The mount takes an M12 bolt and I would have thought the centre hole on the pier plate should be 12mm. Or am I missing something here, as without the adapter, I’m working in the dark. Thanks Doug
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Question on dew heaters and EAF
ollypenrice replied to Adam1234's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
You're trying to warm, very slightly, the glass of the objective or corrector. This has quite a high thermal mass and you can only heat it from around the edge so it is best, in my view, to heat it from the outset. I've used both 'full power only' and variable dew heaters and never found any difference, really. It's more important for battery powered systems. Olly -
I think you are missing that the average pull of gravity is balanced out but the strength of the materials of the solid earth and liquid water. This is essentially the EM force. What matters is the small pererbations from the average. These are shown in fig 5 of the link I gave. Section 3 gives a hand waving description. Just try reading the paper and forget the maths that's what I do first time through. Regards Andrew
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I find it difficult sometimes to tighten the RA clutch lever on my AVX. The other night with the C9.25 aboard it slipped a bit and I had to realign. The ADM replacement knobs are nice but cost £50 a pair. How about this - I cut a short length of 1/2" copper pipe and it fits over the clutch lever to provide that little bit extra leverage. Cost £0.
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I decided on a spot of visual last night, so much less stressful than imaging. I just looked at mars and the moon. Binoviewers with 2xGPC and 12.7mm EPs on the 10” reflector.
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Sounds a great purchase and step up in aperture. The addition of a Nexus DSC sounds a very sound move, it’s what I have done with my OOUK 250 and highly rate the upgrade, it brings the scope to life at home where I have LP issues.
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PudXmas joined the community
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Starsense Explorer Stand Alone Conversion
DaveL59 replied to johninderby's topic in Discussions - Mounts
it is quite a surprise how well it works using just a smartphone isn't it -
There is an HEQ5-Pro in the for sale section
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Question on dew heaters and EAF
Adam1234 replied to Adam1234's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
Bit late for me to make a home made dew heater now, will be a waste of money if I don't use the ones I've bought 30 -50% sounds good though, I'll try that out to start and increase if necessary. Cheers -
Great choice of scope. I can have my 300p set up and fine tunes in under 10mins. I took a similar path to you and went from a 200p to the 300p I was also pleasenty surprised by the bearing in the base, it is a huge improvement over the Teflon, I think they should offer the bearing on the 200p model. I have added my RACI finder and a regal quick finder, they compliment each other well while dso hunting. I also added a duel speed skywatcher focuser while was a quick 10min job, this was a nice improvement over the standard focuser to achieve fine focus and has smaller less cumbersome wheels to adjust focus. This is not essential though. An astrozap dew Shield made a big difference and imo is essential to keep the stray light out, In addition to this I have flocked the whole tube internally both top and bottom sections, it is now pitch black when looking down the tube and there is no sign on internal reflection. This had a noticeable improvement on contrast for me in my bortle 6 location. The next thing I would like is an astro essentials light shield for the secondary mirror, this will help with stray light entering the back of the focus tube. These additions might not be as critical to yourself as you are in bortle 3-4 locations. For me I need every advantage I can get All in all I love the scope and can't wait to get it to a dark sky location at some point to unlock its potential. Regards Baz
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Celestron EdgeHD 8” & HEQ5 Pro
PhotoGav replied to RichardHurst's topic in Discussions - Scopes / Whole setups
Hi Richard, I used to use my EdgeHD 8” on an HEQ5 Pro Mount and I can confirm, with real world evidence, that it works. Are you going to use it for purely visual or do you intend to take photos with it too?
