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  2. Skywatcher is a very well known outfit for many years, and is highly regarded. Have no qualms - you'd do well to buy their instruments. And their 130mm F/5 is a very good scope. Perhaps even the most popular one in these forums - or close to it! So good going in finding one yourself. I'd keep on saving - it will be worth it. About the only criticism would be to get a 150mm instead. Or 200mm. Or 10,000mm - or...etc. This phenomena is known as "Aperture-Fever," and can be incurable! Most all astronomer's have suffered from it as some point! 'Aperture-Fever' aside - the 130mm F/5 is a definite winner. Well worth saving-up for, Dave
  3. Your reply was extremely informative and thank you. Maybe you could help me with a follow up question? When I finally do decide on what mount/scope to get will my mount work with other scopes? For example will my eq mount work just as well for a scope I bought with my alt mount and vice versa? I just can't seem to find information on this topic anywhere....maybe because the answer is obvious and I'm way over thinking it lol.
  4. Thank you for your reply my friend. To answer your question, no I have not tried binoculars. Reason being, I'm not sure if they would show me the views that I would like to see. Like seeing Jupiter and the big red spot, possibly it's moons. Also I've recently gotten my taxes back and being that I have a bit of a spending problem lol I would like to buy a really decent scope while I have the cash to do so and maybe then get some binoculars to help me along my journey. This is huge rookie mistake I'm sure haha.
  5. Very, very good capture, Avani! I especially enjoy your way of getting a good disc of Io. Thank's for sharing this! Dave
  6. Thank you everyone for tour replies, I had no idea I would get such a response. You have been very helpful, really, more helpfulthan all the reviews I've read as I feel like I can't trust a lot of them lol.
  7. Well, just mainly from the research of done. It was also suggested by one of my friends who is an experienced astronomer, that I get a refractor because of of the fact that I live in a city with a pretty decent amount of light pollution. He told me a dobsonian would be great but I would need dark conditions for me to get a lot of use out of it.
  8. Today
  9. My first attempt at astrophotography was Lyra back in March 1976 when I lived in Edinburgh.Not bad considering I stayed less than a km from the City Centre. I used a Zorki Soviet Rangefinder SLR and Ilford 400 asa film. I did the processing myself in my darkroom(ah the good old days being overcome by the fumes of fixer and stop bath!) I used a old tripod I found in a skip. The exposure was 30seconds.I didn't do much more astro photography apart from a couple of comets until I became fully digital in 2004. My first digital DSO shot was of wait for it.....The Orion Nebula! This time with a 4mp compact digiscoped on a 20mm Plossl and a driven Helios 200mm f5 Refl EQ5.The exposure was 8 seconds
  10. Very impressive, great job.
  11. Personally I don't have a preference (I know far too little to understand the whys and wherefores) however manufacturers should provide a USB adapter with the mount. Nothing more annoying than buying a new goto mount, waiting for it to arrive, opening the box to find instructions telling you to update the firmware, then having to spend more money and on a cable, not to mention the wait for it to arrive! Is a six hundred quid plus piece of kit, is it too much to ask for a cable that probably cost a couple of quid to put together!!!!! This post would be full of expletives if they were aloud. Not happy!!!!
  12. I agree. Some of the images posted here make you wonder why NASA would want to spend M$ on sending telescopes in space. On the other hand, there's less cloud up there. Cheers,
  13. Umer123. I would suggest as a first scope a second hand 8 inch dobsonian. It will allow you to see plenty of things and keep busy for a good few years. In time and with experience you will find out which things really interest you and you can purchase something more expensive and specialsed. If you sell the dobsonian at this point you are likely to get your money back and have had all the fun for free.
  14. Nice result, despite the mishaps. I think that with some gentle processing, you can lift the nebula a bit more. What software do you use for processing? Both PixInsight and Photoshop can do masked stretching, which stretches the weaker neb more than the stars. There was an article by Blair MacDonald about this in a previous issue (April 2012) of JRASC (Journal of the Canadian Astronomical Society). http://rasc.ca/jrasc/recent-issues http://adsabs.harvard.edu/full/2012JRASC.106...86M Regarding your mishaps, I had a similar experience last night. Nothing seemed to work, and Ekos/Kstars managed to park my scope right into the mount on two occasions. To top it off, when I set my camera to shoot darks before I went to bed, I forgot to set it to the correct ISO settings. This morning I had 20 10 minute darks at ISO 1600 in stead of ISO 200. Today during the day, I sorted out the parking issues, but clouds and snow stopped me from testing tonight. Hope you get some clear nights soon to collect more data on this target.
  15. OTA = optical tube assembly. This is the telescope tube, the mirrors / objective lens and the focuser. Telescope mounts are broadly divided into alt-azimuth (up and down. left and right) and equatorial (once aligned, you just need to move the mount on one axis to track the stars / planets). Then you can choose manual (ie: point it and push it to track yourself), motor driven (you find the object, motors move the mount to track it) and GOTO (computer controlled motors find the target and move the mount to track it). Refractor, Newtonian, Schmidt-Cassegrain, Maksutov-cassegrain, etc, etc. All good scopes and all have their strengths and weaknesses. There are lots of good ones of each type, some very good ones and a few not so good ones. In order to work out which type of scope might be the best one for you, you need to think a bit about: - how much you want to spend. - how portable you want / need the scope and mount to be to suit where you will keep it and where you will use it. - whether you are more interested in looking at the moon and planets, deep sky objects (galaxies, nebulae, clusters etc) or a mix of everything. - whether you might be interested in imaging the moon and planets or deep sky objects at some point in the future. - whether you want to find your way around the sky or have a computer built into the scope mount do it for you. Hope that helps a bit
  16. I have spent hours reading posts and articles on Collimation to the point where I really couldn't see the wood for the trees. Don't get me wrong, I love this forum and find the posts and advice given really useful, but there is always more than one way to do anything and if you are a compleat beginner it is easy to get far too much info, I found this really basic guide originally from sky and telescope. http://garyseronik.com/a-beginners-guide-to-collimation/ Hope it helps. You can get a cheap Collimation cap from FLO.
  17. You definitely got more detail in the second version. I think that in the first, you had clipped the background. There are probably better noise reduction methods in PS, but if all else fails, you can try to reduce the colour noise by masking the stars and galaxies, and dialing down colour saturation. This should neutralise the background, while keeping colour in the galaxies. BTW, didn't dig up your original post, but how many subs at which camera settings went into making this image?
  18. WOW..looks real, I mean - like you're actually looking at the real thing (i know, we are lol, but it's so realistic ) - incredible image. Did you do all the processing with photoshop?
  19. From your dark site Iain you will see the features of the Rosette.
  20. Pixel size is 6 micron so 66% of the size. Compared to full frame most of the loss in size is on the horizontal so it's closer to square, a little easier on optics that can't handle a full frame sensor. Something else notable about the 16200 sensor is the full well depth, compared to the 11000 sensor it's about 50% higher if you take the size of the pixels into account
  21. Thanks for reply, To be honest my mind was to get cassegrain telescope because i saw review by someone on youtube. But after your advice i am bit here and there, All i want is to view the sky look for nice views. I do not know whats in the sky all i know moon,star and planet just want to explore more. if you were on my place you will buy refrector ?
  22. Scopes with a flimsy steel tube go out of collimation as soon as you adjust the rings so receiving one perfectly collimated that have travelled thousands of kilometres? Nope! Some scopes are ok collimated after the travel thou and definitely good enough for visual
  23. The mount makers (mostly) stick to Serial because it's reliable. Most, but not all, PC and Laptop makers don't spec Serial ports because most, but not all, customers don't need them. But some do still spec serial ports because there is a demand from industry - I wonder why? Michael
  24. The 130 Dob was a consideration for me when buying my scope. If I hadn't seen a too good to miss offer on my 150P EQ then I may well have gone for it.
  25. Hey UKJay, Last night I had the occasion to run my mount with everything being brought to my laptop with a single USB2 cable from the Star Tech USB3 hub. I was having some WiFi issues so I unplugged the mini computer to give the laptop a go. It worked flawlessly. Before revamping my telescope and adding the mini Stick computer, I had long USB cables (~15 feet) feeding off my mount to a table in the garden where my hub was. It was my early configuration. My intent was always to put the hub closer to the telescope and have a single USB cable (~10 feet). Last night that worked fab. I use to get a drop out of my main imaging camera, but that seems to be a thing of the past now with the powered hub being at the mount. I would say go for it.
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