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  1. Past hour
  2. michael.h.f.wilkinson

    August 17-18, 2018: NGC7000 to Sadr with Zeiss 85mm

    Slight improvement, using bad pixel map (which removed hot pixel tracks successfully) and one extra light frame that I accidentally skipped the first time round, so 960s total exposure.
  3. simmo39

    Tulip Ha

    Im no expert but I think I like the original best.
  4. Jon the Newb

    Planets too small

    Mine is an f5. do you use a filter to help? I was reading that a blue filter helps? Any other suggestions for better viewing?
  5. cloudsweeper

    Planets too small

    Even a small 'scope should easily reveal two bands on Jupiter. Keep the magnification down, and try it at twilight for best effect. Yes, it will look small, but some detail will show up. Saturn likewise, but Mars can be trickier and rather underwhelming. Doug.
  6. Dragon_Astro

    Altair Astro 183c Pro spacing

    The amp glow on the 183 isn't that apparent, not on my Hypercam anyway. The starburst effect you get on the right hand side of long subs (5+ mins) is a pig to calibrate out though, as Adam says your darks really have to be spot on.
  7. Davey-T

    Planets too small

    Depends on the focal length, I have an 80mm f/9 scope that shows Jupiters bands easily. Dave
  8. Stu

    Planets too small

    The iOptron appears to be a clone of the Skywatcher ST80. It is a fast achromatic scope, so is designed more for lower power, widefield views, but I would agree with other posts that you should be able to make out a couple of cloud bands on Jupiter, plus the Galilean moons, and also the rings around Saturn.
  9. Dragon_Astro

    Altair Astro 183c Pro spacing

    Looking on the Altair Astro website, the distance for back focus you need is 55mm but you need to take off 12.5mm to compensate for the distance of the chip positioned inside the camera. So you need 42.5mm in spacer....give or take 1mm or so. I joined the Altair Astro Imaging group on Facbook when I got my Hypercam, it's great for help and getting questions answered by Nick and other members usually same day.
  10. So what? When looking for wide fields of view in a "finder" eyepiece, losing a bit of light to your iris is far preferable to me, at least, to putting up with a fuzzy edge that isn't useful for finding anything. I've struggled with poorly corrected wide field 2" eyepieces in the past that made it impossible to locate planetary nebula because of the horrible field curvature, edge astigmatism and general lack of sharpness in the middle. You'd think using an over large exit pupil was some sort of crime punishable by the astro cops around here. "How dare you use an eyepiece that doesn't let you use the full aperture of your scope" would read the charging papers. Sure, the background is a bit brighter than in a 31mm Nagler T5, but it's not that much brighter. And when you compare the prices, it's no contest at all.
  11. michael.h.f.wilkinson

    Came across this handy little gadget

    Used it to good effect yesterday evening, but I did set the interval between shots too short, so it skipped shots, because the camera was still writing data when the timer pressed the shutter release again. Won't make that mistake again.
  12. There are 12v versions of the 28BYJ-48 though not a ubiquitous as the 5v version.
  13. Jon the Newb

    Planets too small

    I have the exact same issue. Jupiter just appears as a small dot. I have an 80mm, ioptron scope. I've had it for two years and have never been able to see cloud bands......
  14. there used to be a shop in stockport "stockport telescope and binocular " but that was 13 years ago when I last lived in the uk ,opticstar had a showroom on 83 washway road in sale Manchester, maybe it is still there, just google earthed it and dated june 2017 the shop front still there but no life in the window. so maybe internet only you could give them a ring,
  15. Thanks for the post Olly. I use the Moravian SIPS software to capture the subs, I’m not sure how to build in a delay between each exposure, I’ll look into it. I’m just wondering however, the software has a low noise download or a fast preview option, for use when aligning and focusing, maybe I had it set on the fast option on this occasion? It must be something like that, given that it was only affecting alternate exposures.
  16. Stu

    TS 72mm first light

    Have added a findershoe and lightweight finder, plus have bolted an ADM Dovetail onto the standard on to try to help solve the balance issue. Would like to find a lighter weight solution, it feels like the ADM weighs as much as the scope!
  17. Special K

    First time in a while...

    @CjgI’m curious are those two TS 6” refractors in the photo?
  18. Today
  19. ok, thanks a lot ! I will then first practice and train myself, i wouldnt' be surprised that my sons learns faster as I will do...:)
  20. SteveNickolls

    Words fail me

    Wow, words really fail...
  21. Looks like great work Jbrazio. I noticed that in your wiring scheme for the unipolar 28bjy-48 that you show a 12V power supply. My 28bjy-48 is a 5V so perhaps you should make that clear as 12V would run too hot? Also, I too have the skywatcher ED80 and so am printing out your design. Do you have any pictures of your final installation? Appreciate your hard work. Thanks
  22. Allinthehead

    Tulip Ha

    I had another go at this. Held back overall on the stretch and managed more contrast. Would love some feedback on which version is preferred. Image below is reprocess inserted into original post.
  23. astro mick


    Thanks Guys. Mick.
  24. Wiu-Wiu

    Flats and Meridian Flip

    Good you mention the bunny and the galax. After you flip, the bunny will be at the lower right. But flats and darks and bias are meant to correct your optical train’s flaws. Which have also rotated. So if there is dust on the right sideof the bunny, the same dust spec will be left of the bunny after the flip - it also doesn’t move in respect of your telescope, camera sensor,... you can even image a whole other object, or if you wish to make a mosaic: image the ears of the bunny for example, the dust won’t budge, the picture will be completely different, but the flaws - which we want to correct - are still in the same spot relative to the center of the sensor. When you calibrate your frames, the software will use the flats, darks and bias to make some sort of “master magic cleanup wand” and clean all of your images. Only after that, the software will proceed to flip them,align them by stars, and stack them accordingly. That’s also what happens when you dither: every frame is taken slightly offset of the previous ones, to even more dilute the effect of noise.
  25. Special K

    My first fuzzy: M31 with bino

    That’s excellent. I must have seen M31 a hundred times before I realised I was there all the time! Mirach is a lovely red color. Enjoy!
  26. With the 130p I find the easist way is to put your hand flat on the base and just ease it gently round once you get the hang of the technique it’s much easier. But IMHO a tracking mount would solve all your problems and cost less than some of the eyepieces you are describing. Even an EQ mount with a tracking RA motor fitted would make life much easier and solve a lot of your issues!
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