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About RolandKol

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    Woolwich, London, UK

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  1. My Sincere apologies for the target chosen... But I am really happy I was never able to hunt this one down since I started 3 years ago Cannot hold myself not to share. Not the best pic for sure, - but still happy (only 11.5mins per channel + Moon) * Borlte9= noisy hope to catch it one day without the Moon and for longer than 30min. P.S. My initial image, just once I started... (my astrohookup image)
  2. nice guiding! and data even jealous!
  3. Sadly... But l think only side by side comparison can offer more than we have at the moment.
  4. Welcome back Platesolving, - is probably the option I cannot imagine myself imaging without as per NEQ6 upgrade, - I would postpone it... 0.7/0.8 is good enough for our image scale, - not perfect but really good. Especially, if you will go after CMOS astrocam, - 3min exposures will be enough, so no need to push NEQ6 further (at least in my opinion)... I would better save money for the modern/better mount instead. As per NB imaging, - it is completely different Level of imaging... HUGE step UP. Literally HUGE! And it does not matter which location you are in... The darker yo
  5. I also received them recently (36mm ones). Some Stacks examples/tests below. No Flats, just used half a year old master bias and darks, autostretched in PI without any other manipuliations. Test done on 05/08/2020, London, Bortle 8-9, via ASI1600m-Pro + Skywatcher 130PDS (flocked), Gain200 + 120Sec, 30min per channel. Targeted Sadr on purpose, - wanted to check if filters produce any reflections (OIII especially). (Almost full Moon was hiding behind the house and quite far away from the target) I am quite happy with them, just packing is not perfect... Filter envelope
  6. ISO800 / 90Sec!!! Jealous!!!! My ISO100/30sec usually are almost overexposed! (Light Pollution issue....) Nice pic!
  7. I used my Canon without any SW CC first and have not noticed any drawtube protrusion issues... SW CC actually caused problems... However, it can be written off, - as I had completely no experience at that time and did not know what to look for.
  8. Hi Brendan, Very sad story... I see 2 problems: 1) Guiding issue 100%, - after SharpCap polar alignment, Calibrate PHD properly and run drift alignment to check your PA. You should be quite close or actually even Spot On after Sharpcap PA procedure. If guiding is still in trouble even with good PA, check your balancing again (RA and DEC) and check cabling, - maybe some cables are able to catch mount bolts or something. 2) Spacing - which causes coma. I do not use Canon for last 2 years, - but as I recall it has 2 different types of adapters.... I hope someone will correct m
  9. Don't Cut if you use Baader CC, - try all out first. If you will notice any problems (most likely not), - think of chopping 10mm off first, simply with hacksaw, - aluminum gives up easy, 5min job... Test test Test... If problem remains, 5mm more (not more, otherwise drawtube will not stay on the internal rollers). The inner side which protrudes into the scope is chopped, as other side has threads which are used for camera holders As I mentioned, usually that problem happens with Coma Correct for Skywatcher Brand.
  10. Welcome to the dark side! Once you get all, - check youtube, - it has nice vids about collimation, just one mistake (on all videos), they offer to adjust secondary (the small mirror), - I strongly suggest do not touch any bolts of the secondary at the start as it is quite sensitive and difficult to adjust... To collimate the primary (large mirror) is very easy and you can be confident, - you will not ruin anything. as per Baader CC, - most likely you will not need to shorten the Focuser's drawtube as it has no Focal Length reduction as Skywatcher's cc has (which is 0.9 reducer).
  11. I am only 3 years in a hobby, never ever managed to get more than 20 I added 5 just in case as I am not keeping any diary, - just dated folder names Location Location Location.... My Bortle 8-9, probably shine much brighter even if a slight thin cloud line is in the way. You actually made me a bit more optimistic...
  12. as per EP, - yep, will fit as PDS has an adapter for them. And you are very right, - It is a BlackHole for your earnings! Just keep in mind, for the flat field (stars without coma in the corners) you will also need coma corrector for PDS (actually, for all newtonians) and it will cost around £140 and there are few options to go for... Like Baader MPCC Mk3 or GPU and etc, Skywatcher has the standard one for PDS, which is also 0.9 Focal reducer, - works... but... you may end up shortening focusers tube as 0.9 F reduction forces to move the focuser almost full IN to get focus for
  13. If you target for the new one, - buy it from astro shops... At least you will have a proper support and warranty. Prices will be more or less the same. Ebay, - for cheaper toys only
  14. I saw some users managed to get nice pictures with EQ3 Goto, - but it involves balancing on the tiny line of capabilities of the mount... The most usual advise would be to go for the secondhand HEQ5 as a minimum or even step further to NEQ6. As later you will add: Guidescope + GuideCam Mono camera instead of Canon, - it will need Electronic FilterWheel. Once you get bored to focus on each filter, - Autocofuser will come along. Also, - All the cabling in relation.... And Voilà, - you are few kg above the mount limits.... And long exposures are not reliable due to
  15. I do not think spacing is correct... The top left corner clearly shows it... the slight tilt reduces coma in other corners. add or reduce with 0.5mm derling spacer... slight coma will remain (as in my case), but I simply gave up P.S. not sure about the direction... yours is a bit strange..... it should be excentric.. but yours is more vertical... Have you played with focuser's tilt adjustment?
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