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About RolandKol

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    Sub Dwarf

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    Woolwich, London, UK
  1. nice guiding! and data even jealous!
  2. Sadly... But l think only side by side comparison can offer more than we have at the moment.
  3. Welcome back Platesolving, - is probably the option I cannot imagine myself imaging without as per NEQ6 upgrade, - I would postpone it... 0.7/0.8 is good enough for our image scale, - not perfect but really good. Especially, if you will go after CMOS astrocam, - 3min exposures will be enough, so no need to push NEQ6 further (at least in my opinion)... I would better save money for the modern/better mount instead. As per NB imaging, - it is completely different Level of imaging... HUGE step UP. Literally HUGE! And it does not matter which location you are in... The darker your place is, - the larger step up it will be I am based in London, - imaging from back garden bortle 8/9... you can check my images on the Flickr... It has a clear trace from Canon, to ASi1600 LRGB and NB. Images are not professional, - "advancedbeginner" level, so will be closer to your possible results.
  4. I also received them recently (36mm ones). Some Stacks examples/tests below. No Flats, just used half a year old master bias and darks, autostretched in PI without any other manipuliations. Test done on 05/08/2020, London, Bortle 8-9, via ASI1600m-Pro + Skywatcher 130PDS (flocked), Gain200 + 120Sec, 30min per channel. Targeted Sadr on purpose, - wanted to check if filters produce any reflections (OIII especially). (Almost full Moon was hiding behind the house and quite far away from the target) I am quite happy with them, just packing is not perfect... Filter envelope is sealed with a halo sticker, - which managed to end up on my SII.... If someone will decide to go for them, - remove the stickers completely H SII OIII End result:
  5. ISO800 / 90Sec!!! Jealous!!!! My ISO100/30sec usually are almost overexposed! (Light Pollution issue....) Nice pic!
  6. I used my Canon without any SW CC first and have not noticed any drawtube protrusion issues... SW CC actually caused problems... However, it can be written off, - as I had completely no experience at that time and did not know what to look for.
  7. Hi Brendan, Very sad story... I see 2 problems: 1) Guiding issue 100%, - after SharpCap polar alignment, Calibrate PHD properly and run drift alignment to check your PA. You should be quite close or actually even Spot On after Sharpcap PA procedure. If guiding is still in trouble even with good PA, check your balancing again (RA and DEC) and check cabling, - maybe some cables are able to catch mount bolts or something. 2) Spacing - which causes coma. I do not use Canon for last 2 years, - but as I recall it has 2 different types of adapters.... I hope someone will correct me if I am wrong... But one of them, actually had incorrect spacing which produced coma (or in other words, - does not eliminate coma completely even if CC is used). Can you please drop us the link of Canon Adapter you use? However, in your case, stars distorted quite heavily... I suspect the Primary mirror holder bolts can be over-tightened a bit, but I am not sure... have you bought your PDS from the shop or it was used?
  8. Don't Cut if you use Baader CC, - try all out first. If you will notice any problems (most likely not), - think of chopping 10mm off first, simply with hacksaw, - aluminum gives up easy, 5min job... Test test Test... If problem remains, 5mm more (not more, otherwise drawtube will not stay on the internal rollers). The inner side which protrudes into the scope is chopped, as other side has threads which are used for camera holders As I mentioned, usually that problem happens with Coma Correct for Skywatcher Brand.
  9. Welcome to the dark side! Once you get all, - check youtube, - it has nice vids about collimation, just one mistake (on all videos), they offer to adjust secondary (the small mirror), - I strongly suggest do not touch any bolts of the secondary at the start as it is quite sensitive and difficult to adjust... To collimate the primary (large mirror) is very easy and you can be confident, - you will not ruin anything. as per Baader CC, - most likely you will not need to shorten the Focuser's drawtube as it has no Focal Length reduction as Skywatcher's cc has (which is 0.9 reducer). Bias, - you can take any time, as these are the shortest exposures of Darks (Canon probably has 1/4000sec exposure in the fasted mode). Bias are done at the same ISO as Lights, you can build library and re-use Master Bias (stacked version) in the future. Darks, - currently is quite a big tendency to use Dither strongly instead of Dark (Dither every sub or every second sub). Dither is slight shift of the target between subs, - it is usually done via Astro imaging software like APT, SGP and etc while Guiding (some even able to it manually...... O_o ) Of course, try the procedure with Darks also, - in ideal they should be taken even at the same temperature as Lights, - it will not be possible with Canon, so just simply try to get the temperature close (and of course, the rest of the settings like ISO and Exposure - have to be the same as Lights). Thats why darks on Canons are hated... Especially if you do Long exposure lights, - you will waste a lot of time on Darks also... Flats, - depends on the software you will use, APT has ant option for Canon Flats, - easy as 123. If no software is used, - it is quite a poem to write about it..... Keep in mind, - Flats is not only for vignette reduction , but Mainly to remove dust shadows from images (you cannot avoid them completely... dust will pop out from time to time in different places), so if you moved any toy one your optical train (for example camera... or reducer or Light Pollution filter and etc), - you will not be able to produce Flats which will match your Lighs, as optics will shift and dust shadows on Flats will not match their location on the Light images.
  10. I am only 3 years in a hobby, never ever managed to get more than 20 I added 5 just in case as I am not keeping any diary, - just dated folder names Location Location Location.... My Bortle 8-9, probably shine much brighter even if a slight thin cloud line is in the way. You actually made me a bit more optimistic...
  11. as per EP, - yep, will fit as PDS has an adapter for them. And you are very right, - It is a BlackHole for your earnings! Just keep in mind, for the flat field (stars without coma in the corners) you will also need coma corrector for PDS (actually, for all newtonians) and it will cost around £140 and there are few options to go for... Like Baader MPCC Mk3 or GPU and etc, Skywatcher has the standard one for PDS, which is also 0.9 Focal reducer, - works... but... you may end up shortening focusers tube as 0.9 F reduction forces to move the focuser almost full IN to get focus for imaging, and the drawtube casts shadow on the mirror... it makes some brighter stars in shape of letter D or similar. if drawtube is shortened by 10mm, - images are perfect, but... you will not be able to use EP for visual, as focus position is much further for EP and drawtube may/will fall off from the internal rollers.
  12. If you target for the new one, - buy it from astro shops... At least you will have a proper support and warranty. Prices will be more or less the same. Ebay, - for cheaper toys only
  13. I saw some users managed to get nice pictures with EQ3 Goto, - but it involves balancing on the tiny line of capabilities of the mount... The most usual advise would be to go for the secondhand HEQ5 as a minimum or even step further to NEQ6. As later you will add: Guidescope + GuideCam Mono camera instead of Canon, - it will need Electronic FilterWheel. Once you get bored to focus on each filter, - Autocofuser will come along. Also, - All the cabling in relation.... And Voilà, - you are few kg above the mount limits.... And long exposures are not reliable due to bad guiding... Around 50% subs to the bin... So it mostly depends on the area you are in, if you have lots of clear and free nights, - you can try tinkering the cheaper mount and get most of it and you will most likely succeed. On another hand, - if you are UK based, - you probably noticed, we usually have around 20 - 25 clear nights per year.
  14. I do not think spacing is correct... The top left corner clearly shows it... the slight tilt reduces coma in other corners. add or reduce with 0.5mm derling spacer... slight coma will remain (as in my case), but I simply gave up P.S. not sure about the direction... yours is a bit strange..... it should be excentric.. but yours is more vertical... Have you played with focuser's tilt adjustment?
  15. I managed to image Whirlpool Galaxy using short subs from London.... 7sis should be more than OK, but there are other challenges...
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