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RolandKol

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    389
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About RolandKol

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Woolwich, London, UK
  1. RolandKol

    Callibration Disaster. (DSS)

    Hmmm, cannot answer... but interesting.... Usually, DSS did quite a nice job with my CANON... Which camera you were using? For example, I found that ASI1600 bias files should be created at around 0.3s exposure as shorter ones produced a completely random result. P.S. There is another free software for stacking, - ASTAP. Does the job more or less the same as DSS, maybe it will help
  2. Not sure if anyone posted this vid here... But it accidentally caught my attention today in the morning and I was locked In for full 90 mins and I just wanted to share it with fellow dreamers Enjoy!
  3. I would not bother my self about the "Fit bolt Tilt", as focuser has 2 bolts and you can tighten them quite equally and leave it for good The main pain is the focuser's tube Tilt while you Lock the Focuser.... You can play 5 min, achieve "SuperDuper" Focus, - and Lose it in a second once you lock it... I have to play with focus offset all the time and it's even more tricky... I hope my DIY autofocuser will make my life easier....
  4. RolandKol

    M31 HaLRGB

    WOW! I been waiting for your stacks, to experiment with HaRGB as I never done it before but reading this, - just completely confused me It sound more like a wizardry and witchcraft! but it produces a VERY nice result! I will need to learn this "abracadabra" before I buy my LRGB filters! Thanks for stacks!
  5. RolandKol

    Planetary settings Firecapture?

    I am not a pro in this field, but managed to get some decent images with my 130PDS (which is not a planetary scope at all... ) As I recall, there are 2 main settings you should Follow, not a direct ones, but... I hope it will help: 1) If it is not the Moon, use ROI (Region of Interest), it will make resolution smaller and will increase FPS dramatically, it also depends on cam you use, try different ones, my best results were between 200x200 and 480x640 with ASI224MC on Jupiter. 2) Keep an eye on the Histogram, - this is the tool which tells you what Exposure and Gain settings to use. Keep the Peek in around 70% for the start with the highest FPS rate you can achieve using around 80%-90% of gain (you can try 100% also, why not). Make different types of records, - 60% / 80% maybe even 90%, as settings are very target dependant. check my results and settings attached in .txt format to some of the images
  6. RolandKol

    SHO Pacman (still with problems)

    Lets hope it will help! P.S. if you are with the filterwheel and have not removed the cam from it and managed to seal it properly, - probably, - your new flats will more or less will fit the old data... At least mine do.
  7. RolandKol

    GRADIENTS!!

    Have you tried "PixInsight LE", the Old and Free Pixinsight version? It has quite a powerful gradient removal tool.
  8. RolandKol

    SHO Pacman (still with problems)

    If I go with PI script (for a quick peek inside of data mostly), I use FlatDarks instead of Bias or Do not use them at all as MasterBias with 0.33sec exposure gives almost the same result in PI script. PI Script does not handle DarkFlats in a proper way, so AMP glow stays.... I read somewhere an advise to create two sets of FlatDarks with different names for PI Script. Use one instead of Bias, and other set to place together with Master Dark, - but I have not yet tried this option. I had enough of experiments for awhile So if I decide I have enough data and decide to make a Final stack, I do all manually as described here
  9. RolandKol

    SHO Pacman (still with problems)

    If you with ASI1600 it usually has AMP glow in the corners, which is quite difficult to handle just with Flats I use PI and recently started to prepare master FlatDark for each Flat to calibrate. And the whole stacking procedure becomes very Manual... I always fail to get rid of the amp glow with PI script... My personal examples: This one with a simple Bias files https://www.flickr.com/photos/154881882@N05/31863461838/in/datetaken/ and the one below with Flat Darks, Loooong and Booring manual stack, without Bias at all... https://www.flickr.com/photos/154881882@N05/31863461838/in/datetaken/ if I want to use PI script to check what I have managed to collect during the session, now I use MasterBias created from 150x0.33s Bias files (ZWO recommends 0.3s), it gives more or less acceptable, but very fast result. P.S. Master Dark =100subs done in the basement (hiding from cosmic rays as Vlaviv suggested ) I hope it helps...
  10. RolandKol

    SHO Pacman (still with problems)

    It looks like.... you need more HA to fix the background... (If I understand correctly...) But don't take my words for granted!
  11. RolandKol

    SHO Pacman (still with problems)

    Nice one! I really love the colors and the detail but not the diffraction spikes it looks like you killed them while trying to fix the background I have not tried to target it yet, but it is in my list and it looks like this target is much more difficult than I thought.... As per background: If you check other packman NB images online, - the majority do have the same patches, or they are cropped or their background is completely darkened... it looks like the surrounding area is dusty in patches and it gives uneven/dirty background effect... a nice example of the background is here (keep in mind, he used Astrodons)
  12. RolandKol

    Enjoying astronomy

    You can play with Hubble images like I did and will do from time to time. Almost full tutorial here https://youtu.be/8kGPGhbefhI
  13. RolandKol

    Nothing to see here

    nice It was probably the best time for the Loonar Mission!
  14. RolandKol

    Imaging with the 130pds

    Haha never paid attention to it! My SW CC also has it thanks!
  15. RolandKol

    Imaging with the 130pds

    Nice Duplet! Don't you afraid camera to fall off in such a position? I want to place my ASI1600 like this to make a better balance.... but I AFRAID!
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