Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_lunar_landings.thumb.jpg.b50378d0845690d8a03305a49923eb40.jpg

RolandKol

Members
  • Content Count

    1,059
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

532 Excellent

1 Follower

About RolandKol

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Woolwich, London, UK
  1. I would suggest, do not touch Any Screws of the Secondary at the start. Colimate the primary Only, the secondary usually comes in close to perfect position from the factory. So once you colimate Primary, which is quite easy, run a de-focused start test on the bright star and if you will get a Close to symmetrical result, - do not bother about the secondary as it may lead to even more issues. The adjustment screws of the Primary mirror are based at the bottom of the scope.
  2. Nice results! But for astro "toys", it is probably better to go PETG or even ABS way... Not sure about PLA+, but simple PLA deformed and and melted during the summer time on my scope under the cover... Had to reprint it all. I have not yet tried ABS, as I am quite happy with PETG, and I fell in love with a RED-Transparent one "Long time unopened " Depends on luck I guess... I have received one Sunlu spool which was humid even in the vacuum bag... it was my 3rd spool in total, so due to the lack of experience I was very confused why I end up with a bad prints. This issue led me to print/craft the drybox for printing and made me to by another plastic box for filament storage. Wet PLA I had, was dried in the oven at 60C / around 5 hours (I dried all spools I have, just in case), later placed into the drybox with a silica gel for printing and was "consumed" properly So even if your PLA gets wet, - do not worry. But since then, - all the filament I buy and if opened, - it goes directly into the drybox and printed from it directly, PLA/PETG, no difference. Drobyx is especially good if you do not print for several weeks and etc. P.S. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3320749 (the link is just an example, I use a different set up)
  3. I would not consider any wooden frame for 3D printers... I guess, it may work, but you will end up printing in a very low speeds....30-40mm/s Plus, they even have not bothered to place Z axis properly for one of their advert pictures.... So quality control is at the lowest rate... However, - all the electric parts and metallic rods used, - probably would cost more than this printer if bought separately interesting... P.S. Ender 3 or Mega, are probably the cheapest options which actually work...
  4. It is normal for Screen to flash once you move the bed on the cheep printers while they are off. Stepper mottors are generators also, - so avoid moving bed very fast as there is a small chance to burn the mother board.
  5. My 3D printed Sam+Evoguide universal holder is 90% ready. Universal, as Asi1600mm with EFW or Canon will fit in. Also, Autofocuser (10%) and it's holder is the process. This toy will go on top of my 130PS or separate. Took awhile to design and redesign Waiting for a clear night to test
  6. If you've got another dovetail bar, just use it... I was made to drill one extra hole in it.
  7. As you do not have comma corrector, - no difference, - simply attach the longest spacer to the camera (or Filter Wheel if you have one) to get a good hold in the focus tube. Once you will get Coma Corrector, - you will need to get camera and Coma Corrector in a close to perfect distance (55mm), and ZWO camera has all needed spacers for this in the box.
  8. Wow thats a thick one! I print mine twice slimmer I am sure, you will not need screw-holes, - you can chop them off later on to save some space if needed. And yes, - it will work 100%, - the main tool to have And yes, it will also enable you to see how your focuser behaves once you lock it (APT Bahtinov aid or any other imaging software Bahtinov Aid is really handy with it). So once you get your "perfect" focus, - lock the focuser and check the Bahtinov Aid figures again... Lets hope you will not have much tilt and figures will not run away a lot To be honest, - "Locking" was my main pain while focusing Manually.... P.S. Make a habit to place B mask in the same manner, - it will enable you to learn the software and know which direction to turn the focus knob to get closer to focus. For example, negative figure will mean - turn Left, and opposite. If you will keep swapping B mask position each session, your figures may mean different directions.
  9. Gratz! Just once you assemble it, - do Not Press "HOME All" button! Level the bed properly and better if you level it once its pre-heated up to your preferred bed printing temp, which will most likely to be 60C, if you will print PLA.
  10. Hmm, but doesn't it depend on the print speed also? maybe he was too lazy to wait and printed on 80mm/s? in this case, - result is quite Good! with my Mega-S, I can get very clean surface or similar to this one
  11. It does not sound good, - for such a price... However, a slight backslash should not be a major problem, just like @blinky stated... this is why all kind of soft and drivers have the option to compensate it. On another hand, - just to be 100% sure the motor or it's gears are OK, drop a line to ZWO directly, you will probably get quite a fast reply once you do it on their Facebook page, as they advertise their EAF at the moment. https://www.facebook.com/ZwoDesignAstronomyCameras/posts/2320136088035601?__xts__[0]=68.ARAi7ml7Ud4HRNjUDrf8B_ysHYbboLDl5_PiLTjTVw-NxJ65O_4_E_v0EGeuXSeu50tCXVFauwIXfk_LvVTRPh2K1F5OjtBErwNi6X4hugzlO014_Lv6lSZQcJL8FY95xGURoJEDzP50OjdafTEEJTTcBGotxrCD5lUDr0wYDryh4xKc3zXBqESS-FLaDl_0RPb9gKrao3l2yDvqBoPNZngEqkxv8kY0ho1sggzyL8JcGt_w22eNH-OgMkuyc4gaJ-2zgapSGFVCgpD6CMEQT3EtG3Lpfc4xuhZS7gpNUqW7GFudVlexYrOu0M75wk2bEMDnrP-QZFcGcEr7zakMKAkj2Q&__tn__=-UC-R
  12. Permanent, but not on the pear... I keep my tripod and the rig outside under the BBQ cover as per PHD calibration, - if it fails, it can be due to many ssues, but the most usuall one is, - your Rig is not in balance. 6 o'clock in relation to RA axis, in other words, once your scope is parked, camera has to be parallel to the counterweight shaft. ZWO will have all the spacers needed to get the cam into correct distance from Coma Corrector, however, like in my case, I had to add 1mm in addition, you may not need it, - maybe. You will face lots of issues for sure, but better sort them as they come
  13. In your place, I would not, as the Calibration procedure succeeded, so the next step, - guiding and Imaging. If you will be happy with the imaging results, - why should you spend any time on adjustments to make some red/blue graph look nice? The end result is what matters. P.S. If you will run into guiding guiding problems, and you probably will, - you will need to improve the Guiding, not the calibration itself
  14. And you know what? This not the end! hahahaha P.S. Congrats!!!!
  15. It looks like Ender 3 is the most popular entry level printer. I thought it is even cheaper at the moment, something like £170. The only competitor in this price range I can think of, is Anycubic Mega-S, which is a bit more expensive (costs £220), but comes partly assembled. I have not used Ender. I was in between these two printers initially... Do not remember why I went Mega way... It had some problems, which needed some time investments to deal with, like bed warping and thermistor failure, but nothing serious and acceptable for such a price. P.S. Ach... I was not sure how difficult it was to assemble Ender an how accurate it should be... Partly assembled printer won. Now, I would go for a cheaper option
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.