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Everything posted by RolandKol

  1. Sorry, I hope it is not too late, if you will decide to go my way. that 10mm thickness... it actually had a purpose... in my case it aligned the shafts of the motor and the focuser.... So be careful, - slightly slimmer one may be more universal, as washers and etc can adjust the position of the motor shaft.
  2. In my case (not for your scope, so dimensions are probably different), I used Nema Stepper Mount bracket for around £2.5 and from ebay bought test size of Clear Polycarbonate Sheet 10mm x 50 mm x 120mm (if I recall dimensions correctly), - drilled holes = holder.... P.S. (10mm is probably too thick, but it is not heavy anyway) setup does not look nice, - but works flawlessly
  3. It will be quite difficult to find the part for your specific scope and motor, - try to draft it yourself. Similar to the one below (it may actually fit yours with a good amount of luck, will not fit.. missed PG5 part in your message initially) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4705351
  4. In our covidsteria times, - performance indication options are most likely scrapped So I will avoid framing them into any timescales initially.... The auto-response email states something like "due to covid, we will look into the matter within 6 months", but I was lucky to get a call back after 3 days P.S. It loos like my Council works much better than DVLA giving/extending HGV driver's licenses
  5. I am almost sure, I will need to down exp or iso if I will try to image via my window as cam will get blind hmm or maybe I should try using my Ha 3nm filter? hahah joking These LEDs are actually bright as a welding lights.... I do not need to invent anything.
  6. Email/Reply: "I completely agree with all statements related to energy efficiency of LED lanterns in statements described under "The benefits to residents include:" and do agree with most statements of benefits to the environment, however: 1) These street lights are very bright and have no shading. (I feel I need to add more here) 2) NonShaded light covers around 20-30m distance which includes private gardens and any nocturnal wildlife. (I feel I need to add more here) 3) Street lights are in the same height as our house windows. (I will add pictures as @IB20 suggested also think of drawing googlemaps based scheme of light protrusion to our gardens followed by pics). 4) https://www.gov.uk/guidance/light-pollution#how-much-light-shines 5) https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=513 6) https://jech.bmj.com/content/69/11/1118 "Results from this study suggest that when risks are carefully considered, local authorities can safely reduce street lighting saving both costs and energy using switch off, part-night lighting, dimming, and white light strategies without necessarily impacting negatively upon road traffic collisions and crime. The participating local authorities included a good range of communities in terms of population density, geographic location, and economic resources." 7) https://cdn.buglife.org.uk/2019/08/A-Review-of-the-Impact-of-Artificial-Light-on-Invertebrates-docx_0.pdf 8). https://www.cpre.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Shedding_light_leaflet.pdf 9)
  7. Hi guys, LED Streetlights were installed on the road next to my garden and.... Of course, they are not shaded, so my garden and even further neighbors gardens are strongly lit. Without any serious expectations I dropped a short email to the local council, however, they even called me today (only 3 days later) asking to clarify more details. Lady, Environmental Protection Technician, who spoke to me, was kind and was sure LED lights bring only benefits, she agreed to some of my statements about Light Pollution and asked me to describe the negative impacts in the email, so she would be able to forward the issue to the higher entities/authorities. I am not a native English speaker and struggle to express myself properly in official manner and hope you guys will help me out to draft one. Further more, - we could create a standard letter/email which would help others in this field. You can see the email text I received after our telephone conversation (as I understand she copied and pasted most of it from the council's website). I will start drafting my answer in the post below and hope some ideas and help from you guys. ********************* It was lovely to speak to you earlier and to clarify the concerns which you raised due to the scattering of light from these LED which disturb the environment of nocturnal wildlife. We both agree on the benefits of LED lighting. I have included excerpts from the Medway Council Website below:- Benefits of LED lanterns The benefits to residents include: reducing the amount of money spent on electricity per year less glare and intrusion into homes saving roughly 50% in energy less maintenance work improved visibility with a white light easier to see colours making it safer for residents driving, walking or cycling improved safety to residents The new lanterns are better for the environment as they: use less electricity than other lamps or bulbs have less light spillage with lights directed towards the pavement to create better environment for wildlife produce less carbon emissions reduce light pollution and sky glow work well in hot and cold environments have longer lives compared to traditional lights light up immediately I would be grateful if you could send photographs of the light scattering from the LED lights on your street which affect your home. Yours Sincerely, Environmental Protection Technician
  8. Hi Mate, yes, as @alacant it is a dust. And no, it is most likely not on your sensor and most likely not even close to it... Usually (but not always), the dust on the sensor is very dark and usually very small (unless extremely dirty), yours looks like the dust on the filter if you use any. You can calculate the distance of the dust from the sensor using the formula as per description in the link below.
  9. Hi guys, I need a small advise... Planning to upgrade from my Skywatcher 130PDS to iOptron Photron 8" Ritchey-Chrétien... Will sit on NEQ6, guided via OAG. Shooting will done via ASI1600M-pro... Strange, but I could not find almost any info online in relation.... Questions: 1) Could not find any reducer for this scope, - are there any? 2) Does this particular Photron needs any type of corrector? 3) Colimation - any special tools? or I can use the same Cheshire from Newtonian? 4) Saw quite a lot "fat" stars online via RC... is it scope specific or just newbie processing mistake? 5) if not iOptron, - what about GSO or TS-Optics or something? Or simply/painfully cash out for EdgeHD8/9.25.... P.S. Shooting DSO mainly....
  10. It sounds like you checking LCD on the Canon while focusing... If I am correct, try NINA or APT software, so you will have Live View on the Laptop with Bigger screen and proper Zoom, - software also has Bahtinov aids (focusing aids), which will give you some values of sharpness to support your viewing.
  11. not sure, maybe I missed the advise I am willing to give as you had quite a lot already, but here are extra 2p from me simply cut/3d print/or buy the Bahtinov mask. I noticed your images got sharper and sharper, - so you are already getting towards correct focus, but Bahtinov mask or just a simple Y mask will help a lot! During post processing, learn to shrink stars a bit, - and do not over sharpen. P.S. really nice data for a start!
  12. personal note: Full ZWO setup mentioned above with 1.5mm delring (not 1mm, - mistake above) from CC to Camera body = 51mm overall back focus was 57.5mm
  13. Hi guys, any advise will do! P.S. Focuser circumcised (-1cm)... cannot try GPU CC.
  14. Hi guys, was away from astro imaging for a while. Once back, - decided to combat my Coma illness... Need advise as simply do not know if I can try something else. Images attached, are with 1mm spacer. Imaging train: 130PDS, SW coma corrector (0.9 reducer), T2 extender 11mm , 16.5mm M42-M48 extender, 1mm Baader Delrin spacer, 20mm ZWO FilterWheel, ZWO ASI 1600MM-pro CCD distance 6.5 = total 57mm and 56mm without 1mm Spacer. SW Coma Corrector states it needs 55mm, filters in the EFW add up around 1mm into the focal path, - ideal spot should be around 56mm. 56mm and 57mm clearly do not work... (will try 58 tonight...) how to get to the lower end ? I mean to 55mm, so I could test 55.5-56mm with Delrin spacers. Are there any 9mm T2 extenders? Further more... I am not sure if I have collimated it close enough... I flocked the scope, so had to remove focuser and both mirrors... Maybe focuser is tilted... Secondary may be slightly off.... kinda.... lots of done... raw, 120sec H sub frame_and_focus_85.fit
  15. My Sincere apologies for the target chosen... But I am really happy I was never able to hunt this one down since I started 3 years ago Cannot hold myself not to share. Not the best pic for sure, - but still happy (only 11.5mins per channel + Moon) * Borlte9= noisy hope to catch it one day without the Moon and for longer than 30min. P.S. My initial image, just once I started... (my astrohookup image)
  16. nice guiding! and data even jealous!
  17. Sadly... But l think only side by side comparison can offer more than we have at the moment.
  18. Welcome back Platesolving, - is probably the option I cannot imagine myself imaging without as per NEQ6 upgrade, - I would postpone it... 0.7/0.8 is good enough for our image scale, - not perfect but really good. Especially, if you will go after CMOS astrocam, - 3min exposures will be enough, so no need to push NEQ6 further (at least in my opinion)... I would better save money for the modern/better mount instead. As per NB imaging, - it is completely different Level of imaging... HUGE step UP. Literally HUGE! And it does not matter which location you are in... The darker your place is, - the larger step up it will be I am based in London, - imaging from back garden bortle 8/9... you can check my images on the Flickr... It has a clear trace from Canon, to ASi1600 LRGB and NB. Images are not professional, - "advancedbeginner" level, so will be closer to your possible results.
  19. I also received them recently (36mm ones). Some Stacks examples/tests below. No Flats, just used half a year old master bias and darks, autostretched in PI without any other manipuliations. Test done on 05/08/2020, London, Bortle 8-9, via ASI1600m-Pro + Skywatcher 130PDS (flocked), Gain200 + 120Sec, 30min per channel. Targeted Sadr on purpose, - wanted to check if filters produce any reflections (OIII especially). (Almost full Moon was hiding behind the house and quite far away from the target) I am quite happy with them, just packing is not perfect... Filter envelope is sealed with a halo sticker, - which managed to end up on my SII.... If someone will decide to go for them, - remove the stickers completely H SII OIII End result:
  20. ISO800 / 90Sec!!! Jealous!!!! My ISO100/30sec usually are almost overexposed! (Light Pollution issue....) Nice pic!
  21. I used my Canon without any SW CC first and have not noticed any drawtube protrusion issues... SW CC actually caused problems... However, it can be written off, - as I had completely no experience at that time and did not know what to look for.
  22. Hi Brendan, Very sad story... I see 2 problems: 1) Guiding issue 100%, - after SharpCap polar alignment, Calibrate PHD properly and run drift alignment to check your PA. You should be quite close or actually even Spot On after Sharpcap PA procedure. If guiding is still in trouble even with good PA, check your balancing again (RA and DEC) and check cabling, - maybe some cables are able to catch mount bolts or something. 2) Spacing - which causes coma. I do not use Canon for last 2 years, - but as I recall it has 2 different types of adapters.... I hope someone will correct me if I am wrong... But one of them, actually had incorrect spacing which produced coma (or in other words, - does not eliminate coma completely even if CC is used). Can you please drop us the link of Canon Adapter you use? However, in your case, stars distorted quite heavily... I suspect the Primary mirror holder bolts can be over-tightened a bit, but I am not sure... have you bought your PDS from the shop or it was used?
  23. Don't Cut if you use Baader CC, - try all out first. If you will notice any problems (most likely not), - think of chopping 10mm off first, simply with hacksaw, - aluminum gives up easy, 5min job... Test test Test... If problem remains, 5mm more (not more, otherwise drawtube will not stay on the internal rollers). The inner side which protrudes into the scope is chopped, as other side has threads which are used for camera holders As I mentioned, usually that problem happens with Coma Correct for Skywatcher Brand.
  24. Welcome to the dark side! Once you get all, - check youtube, - it has nice vids about collimation, just one mistake (on all videos), they offer to adjust secondary (the small mirror), - I strongly suggest do not touch any bolts of the secondary at the start as it is quite sensitive and difficult to adjust... To collimate the primary (large mirror) is very easy and you can be confident, - you will not ruin anything. as per Baader CC, - most likely you will not need to shorten the Focuser's drawtube as it has no Focal Length reduction as Skywatcher's cc has (which is 0.9 reducer). Bias, - you can take any time, as these are the shortest exposures of Darks (Canon probably has 1/4000sec exposure in the fasted mode). Bias are done at the same ISO as Lights, you can build library and re-use Master Bias (stacked version) in the future. Darks, - currently is quite a big tendency to use Dither strongly instead of Dark (Dither every sub or every second sub). Dither is slight shift of the target between subs, - it is usually done via Astro imaging software like APT, SGP and etc while Guiding (some even able to it manually...... O_o ) Of course, try the procedure with Darks also, - in ideal they should be taken even at the same temperature as Lights, - it will not be possible with Canon, so just simply try to get the temperature close (and of course, the rest of the settings like ISO and Exposure - have to be the same as Lights). Thats why darks on Canons are hated... Especially if you do Long exposure lights, - you will waste a lot of time on Darks also... Flats, - depends on the software you will use, APT has ant option for Canon Flats, - easy as 123. If no software is used, - it is quite a poem to write about it..... Keep in mind, - Flats is not only for vignette reduction , but Mainly to remove dust shadows from images (you cannot avoid them completely... dust will pop out from time to time in different places), so if you moved any toy one your optical train (for example camera... or reducer or Light Pollution filter and etc), - you will not be able to produce Flats which will match your Lighs, as optics will shift and dust shadows on Flats will not match their location on the Light images.
  25. I am only 3 years in a hobby, never ever managed to get more than 20 I added 5 just in case as I am not keeping any diary, - just dated folder names Location Location Location.... My Bortle 8-9, probably shine much brighter even if a slight thin cloud line is in the way. You actually made me a bit more optimistic...
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