Stub Mandrel

Thermally. Any insulation you can add makes a difference, a bare spot of copper can lead to failure, it seems. I saw the black colour, looks a good idea.

Wow! That's an amazing picture of Bennu, considering it was done from indoors...

No problem, I think the lessons I've learned are: DSLR narrowband isn't easy, you need (fairly) long exposures which generally means guiding. Processing requires a fair bit of learning, and it's worth investing in good noise removal and contrast enhancing software, like Astra Image. The dual band filter doesn't suppress stars as much as a Ha filter and gives them unnatural colours. Most objects have much more Ha than OIII signal and I think a lot of data collection will be needed to get the OIII signal up out of the noise background. With narrowband filters, Ha is feasible for DSLR, OIII is more challenging and SII is likely to be difficult.

I had one nasty failure - the heater cartridge came loose, at height the increased wire tension led to it falling out. I discovered a VERY hot cartridge stirring a lump of semi-molten PLA.

Google 'Tumble Drier Fire UK'... should keep you entertained for a few days!

I use a modified & cooled 450D. All the following really need at least twice as much data. You need to be quite brutal with the stretching, especially with Ha. This is Baader 7nm Ha, just using the red channel: These are my tests with the Optolong Triple band (it lets OII, Hb and Ha through), although it has two 'peaks'. The elongated stars are caused by accidental tilt. Worked well on the veil, lots of OIII, shame about my targeting: Heart didn't show much if any OIII with it: Fake hubble palette using the optolong:

Prusa is an open source design.

Very slight. I can't tell from the picture, but make sure your cold finger is insulated everywhere!

Torque wrench

Yes, and if I'm doing 8-hour prints it means I'm not likely to hibernate the PC by accident...

I always stick my STL files on an SD card. Fewer cables the better.

Or the Meade I would have guessed?

I'd be happy with that!

It's rather soft, due to excessive noise reduction. But I found out why the stars were dodgy on the previous session - I had fitted a low-profile clamp ring and the screws had tightened on the edge of the undercut for the flattener, tilting it. I spotted this and swapped rings so now my stars are round again!

If you haven't adjusted the stops yet, it can plunge various bits into other bits. Setup instructions should let you get the stops set right and then you can home the head with impunity.