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Russe

Imaging with the 130pds

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Hope you don't mind the frequent updates. I found a criminally simple solution to my guidescope ring mounting issue. Drill bigger holes in the rings and bolt them straight onto the clam shell. IMG_20190628_084848.thumb.jpg.152558c69f4ca3fe102e4223a4b029c9.jpgIMG_20190628_084833.thumb.jpg.772672f30f8e69807bb4cfc6cecf3b3a.jpg

 

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55 minutes ago, aatdalton said:

Hope you don't mind the frequent updates. I found a criminally simple solution to my guidescope ring mounting issue. Drill bigger holes in the rings and bolt them straight onto the clam shell. IMG_20190628_084848.thumb.jpg.152558c69f4ca3fe102e4223a4b029c9.jpgIMG_20190628_084833.thumb.jpg.772672f30f8e69807bb4cfc6cecf3b3a.jpg

 

Where did you get these rings from?

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3 minutes ago, matt_baker said:

Where did you get these rings from?

They actually came with the scope. Purchased it new from some direct China seller off eBay. Surprisingly good quality. Originally they were mounted on a mini-dovetail bar like that would fit into a finder shoe bracket. 

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12 minutes ago, aatdalton said:

They actually came with the scope. Purchased it new from some direct China seller off eBay. Surprisingly good quality. Originally they were mounted on a mini-dovetail bar like that would fit into a finder shoe bracket. 

I find it very hard to get 50mm guidescope rings by themselves without it being an absurd price

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17 minutes ago, matt_baker said:

I find it very hard to get 50mm guidescope rings by themselves without it being an absurd price

Here's a link to what appears to be exactly the same rings that came with my guidescope: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SVBONY-SV116-Guiding-Scope-Tube-Ring-Kit-Mounted-Adjustable-of-Range-43-70mm-NEW/312627196203?hash=item48ca08712b:g:NjAAAOSw6PtcwCrf 

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First image with the 130PDS (and first planetary imaging result), and quite happy with the final result. Untracked from a 37 second video, aligned and stacked etc.

 

Any feedback would be appreciated.

0007.png

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15 hours ago, Startinez said:

First image with the 130PDS (and first planetary imaging result), and quite happy with the final result. Untracked from a 37 second video, aligned and stacked etc.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

A very nice first pancake! :) Congrats!

next time, try using ROI (Region of Interest) while recording (something around 200x200), - it will crop the black area around the target and you will be able to get higher FPS rates. More data you actually need, not just black space :)

Also, sharpcap and firecapture has a target tracking option, will help a lot.

Barlow? x3 probably will fit nicely :)
(maybe you will find something handy also here, - https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/313652-130pds-planetary-imaging/ )

 

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16 hours ago, Startinez said:

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Great start!

The yellow top and greeny blue bottom is caused by 'atmospheric dispersion' - the atmosphere acts like a prism when things are low down. You can get rid of this with an 'atmospheric dispersion corrector', unfortunately they are a bit pricey..

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Posted (edited)

Hi,

Wow, there really are some nice photos on this thread, definitely worth reading! 

These were a couple of quick shots from Monday "morning", Saturn with the NEQ6 and ASI120MC.

1. Saturn from a video of around 15k frames, with 2x (dreadful) barlow. Its a small image, really I could do with getting a decent quality 3x for this kind of stuff, still using the one that came with the explorer 130! 😩

01_18_06.jpg.b58859d8b42653f299f5dccd702c0599.jpg

2. Again with the Barlow, this time a single 5 sec exposure to show Saturn's moons:

(L) Dione, (R) Tethys, just under the planet is Rhea, and under that is Titan. 🌑

SaturnMoons.JPG.5f2d951740a3fdd74f8d8fc2418812bd.JPG

I was able to see all four visually with the 6mm eyepiece, although it was a bit of a struggle. I purposely didnt look at the position of the moons beforehand, its so easy to imagine faint dots! :D 

Clear skies!

John

 

Edited by JohnSadlerAstro
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On ‎10‎/‎03‎/‎2014 at 13:23, Uranium235 said:

Just a few of the goodies ive had from the 130pds over the past few months:

11695810995_10115937dc_b.jpg
 

11934828685_543ed2628b_b.jpg
 

12549102443_17822313b5_b.jpg
 

12852852235_b521e53e60_b.jpg
 

12876522975_a5dea5030f_b.jpg
 

12936956565_1e1bbd6b20_b.jpg
 

In awe of all the images on here … I am just getting started with astrophotograhy and still don't understand the finer points … and also having trouble with focussing issues , but seeing images like this  inspires me so much . Just got my 130pds (17/7/2019 ) and waiting for a clear night . I already own a small refractor but I chose the 130pds for visual use as well as imaging . What I particularly like about this scope is its weight .

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Hi, 

Having just seen this on Flo's website I was thinking whether this would be a suitable solution for the 130pds. 

I have already tried the M54 Baader click lock which placed the camera just a tad too high to find focus but looking at the pictures I believe this maybe slightly smaller.

Does anyone have any experience  with this lock or any idea if it may work?

1879894922_wo-rotolock-2in-m54-zs61_42.png.9f69441e1ab81be697eea6cdb8460686.png

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/william-optics-2-rotolock-for-zenithstar-61-m54.html#

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40 minutes ago, Ross1204 said:

Hi, 

Having just seen this on Flo's website I was thinking whether this would be a suitable solution for the 130pds. 

I have already tried the M54 Baader click lock which placed the camera just a tad too high to find focus but looking at the pictures I believe this maybe slightly smaller.

Does anyone have any experience  with this lock or any idea if it may work?

1879894922_wo-rotolock-2in-m54-zs61_42.png.9f69441e1ab81be697eea6cdb8460686.png

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/william-optics-2-rotolock-for-zenithstar-61-m54.html#

How are you attaching the camera?

A T2 to 2" nosepiece and a T2 to Canon adaptor should work just dandy.

I use the 2" coma corrector with a T2 adaptor.

If you use a 1.25" nosepiece using a 2" to 1.25" adaptor as well may be adding too much length.

 

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On 15/07/2019 at 19:39, Startinez said:

First image with the 130PDS (and first planetary imaging result), and quite happy with the final result. Untracked from a 37 second video, aligned and stacked etc.

 

Any feedback would be appreciated.

0007.png

I've gone from the above to this... albeit with a new camera (ZWO ASI 120) and around 15k frames (stacked ~5k), although still untracked it is now on a HEQ5 mount which will provide far more stability. Different colours but I feel that these are more realistic, and also my first experience of recording in mono (with FireCapture) and debayering in PIPP.

Jup_231530_pipp.jpg

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20 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

How are you attaching the camera?

A T2 to 2" nosepiece and a T2 to Canon adaptor should work just dandy.

I use the 2" coma corrector with a T2 adaptor.

If you use a 1.25" nosepiece using a 2" to 1.25" adaptor as well may be adding too much length.

 

Hi,

I am currently connecting the DSLR (Canon 700D) to the scope via a Baader T2 adapter and Baader MPCC Mark III Coma Corrector.

I have been having trouble with what I believe to be camera tilt in the focuser when securing the DSLR via a compression ring fitting I brought.  I have also seen people suggest drilling a third thumbscrew hole in the stock fixture but would just like to rule out the Rotolock first.

 

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10 hours ago, spillage said:

I just started using this one with my ASI1600 also. Focus achieved properly, camera is held properly, - nice ring.

Not sure about issues yet, as I found coma only on the top right corner of the image (strange), - but it can be related to other parts of the rig as I just removed my OAG and play with spacings a bit.

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This is my first proper time using APT + Dithering, and what can I say, except that my noise levels have gone down a lot.

Since the moon was out the other night, I decided to stick with a brighter target, M13, since it wouldn't be affected by the moon's glow so much.

I also decided to drizzle in pixinsight to make the undersampled stars nice and smooth looking, since I did dither every frame with my DSLR.

It does add the extra time but I think it's worth it, especially with an uncooled DSLR.

Acquisition:

2 1/2 hours

20x180s, 20x120s, 20x30, +15 darks for all

25 flats

30 bias

 

Any CC is welcome

Clear Skies

Matt

M13_jpg_1.jpg

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1 minute ago, bottletopburly said:

@matt_baker lovely image , dithering makes a big difference definitely recommend doing so to anyone not doing it .

Thanks! It really does and I'm glad I tried it

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Hi,

Firstly I just wanted to say how incredible the images being produced here are, so much so that like most others, I bought this scope! Now I have no idea if I should be posting this here or not, but I finally managed to get my first image using the 130pds and my new guiding setup. But i've noticed, there still seems to be small amounts of coma in the corners of the image, yet I have the SW corrector. I tapped an extra hole into the accessory holder, to prevent any tilt which seemed to work great. I am using a canon 600D dslr, so the aps-c sized sensor shouldn't be a problem for the SW corrector, should it? I've made sure to get collimation just right, or I believe it is anyway - i'll attatch an image of the star test.

Cheers,

James.

20190820_221533.thumb.jpg.9c2ba972a0a16f03c2e7763ccc40c33a.jpg

20190817_143555.thumb.jpg.8b226f4ccfadf162f18eb1000b17fd2b.jpg

20190821_150715.thumb.jpg.c44216e5e83bcbab6b7f0f7eacc9b811.jpg

NGC7789Final.thumb.jpg.68f24f372647ebd5a81940ae8228ba48.jpg

20190821_150652.jpg

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10 minutes ago, JamesAstro2002 said:

Hi,

Firstly I just wanted to say how incredible the images being produced here are, so much so that like most others, I bought this scope! Now I have no idea if I should be posting this here or not, but I finally managed to get my first image using the 130pds and my new guiding setup. But i've noticed, there still seems to be small amounts of coma in the corners of the image, yet I have the SW corrector. I tapped an extra hole into the accessory holder, to prevent any tilt which seemed to work great. I am using a canon 600D dslr, so the aps-c sized sensor shouldn't be a problem for the SW corrector, should it? I've made sure to get collimation just right, or I believe it is anyway - i'll attatch an image of the star test.

Cheers,

James.

20190820_221533.thumb.jpg.9c2ba972a0a16f03c2e7763ccc40c33a.jpg

20190817_143555.thumb.jpg.8b226f4ccfadf162f18eb1000b17fd2b.jpg

20190821_150715.thumb.jpg.c44216e5e83bcbab6b7f0f7eacc9b811.jpg

NGC7789Final.thumb.jpg.68f24f372647ebd5a81940ae8228ba48.jpg

20190821_150652.jpg

Could either be your focuser sagging ever so slightly due to the weight of the camera or maybe pinched optics?

To fix the focuser sagging, thread another couple of holes and attach thumb screws.

For pinched optics, you have to take out the mirror cell and loosen the screws holding the mirror clips in place until you can slide a credit cards width underneath

Edit: I think you mentioned tapping an extra hole into the focuser, I don't know if that's what you meant

Edited by matt_baker

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13 minutes ago, matt_baker said:

Could either be your focuser sagging ever so slightly due to the weight of the camera or maybe pinched optics?

To fix the focuser sagging, thread another couple of holes and attach thumb screws.

For pinched optics, you have to take out the mirror cell and loosen the screws holding the mirror clips in place until you can slide a credit cards width underneath

Edit: I think you mentioned tapping an extra hole into the focuser, I don't know if that's what you meant

Hmm. Perhaps it could be. I'll have to take a look. Yes, I added a third thumbscrew to the focusser - don't know what I was thinking when I said accessory holder, lol.

Cheers,

James.

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Just now, JamesAstro2002 said:

Hmm. Perhaps it could be. I'll have to take a look. Yes, I added a third thumbscrew to the focusser - don't know what I was thinking when I said accessory holder, lol.

Cheers,

James.

Manufacturers will over tighten the mirror clips so the mirror doesn't go anywhere, when it doesn't need to be anywhere near as tight as they are. By loosening them it relieves the pressure on the mirror which causes the deformed stars and should make them nice and round again.

Also, I'm in the process of wanting to tap a 3rd hole on the focuser. Could you tell me how you did it?

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1 minute ago, matt_baker said:

Manufacturers will over tighten the mirror clips so the mirror doesn't go anywhere, when it doesn't need to be anywhere near as tight as they are. By loosening them it relieves the pressure on the mirror which causes the deformed stars and should make them nice and round again.

Also, I'm in the process of wanting to tap a 3rd hole on the focuser. Could you tell me how you did it?

Oh right, that does make sense. Thank you.

I just borrowed my Grandad's tap and die set, or you could purchase one from B&Q etc. for a couple quid. I can't remember exactly what size the thumb screw is, but i'm sure someone else on here will.

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38 minutes ago, matt_baker said:

Manufacturers will over tighten the mirror clips so the mirror doesn't go anywhere, when it doesn't need to be anywhere near as tight as they are. By loosening them it relieves the pressure on the mirror which causes the deformed stars and should make them nice and round again.

Also, I'm in the process of wanting to tap a 3rd hole on the focuser. Could you tell me how you did it?

Damn, I see what you mean about them being tight! I found a helpful video from Garnett Leary, so thank you for pointing me in what's hopefully the right direction. I'll be sure to post an update, probably won't be for a while at this rate with the weather being like it is.

Cheers,

James.

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