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Everything posted by dyfiastro

  1. My main issue was with the colour coding on the cables in relation to the pinout. I have since found the solution. Looks like they are using the same pinout if not the same cables that can be found here. I Used that document to find the RX,TX and GND which then enabled me to replace the connector. Test and seems to work fine.
  2. Hi everyone Ive only gone and stripped the cable from the RJ45 connector that goes into the mount. I have spare RJ45 connectors and crimp tool but not sure on the colour codes / pinout for this cable. Does anyone have one of these cables that could tell me the pinout or provide a photo that I can work with. Thanks in advance Mark
  3. Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions. I have pulled trigger on a number of lenses that should be here over the next week. Amongst them are the following that I feel will get a fair amount of dark sky time Samyang 14mm f/2.8 Samyang 20mm f/1.8 Canon 70-200 f/4 I also have a 17-40 and 24-105 f/4 coming which is mainly for daytime shooting but may well see how they perform piggybacked on my mount at some point. The unknown at present is the tamron 90mm macro, time will tell. Will try and get some images up once I get chance.
  4. Thanks everyone I already have my main obsy setup so at present trying to look at lenses that will do double duty if possible. I have always been a fan of samyang lenses. the new sigma ART range do look great and seem to be getting raving reviews for traditional photography. I did look at the Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 but is a crop body only lens, not designed for full frame which is a real shame. I have the body and a tamron 90mm macro coming tomorrow and making a list of possible glass going forward.
  5. I had forgot about the samyang 135mm. that is another to add to the possible list, thanks.
  6. hi everyone I am in the process of switching camera systems so looking to buy a number of lenses (switch from fuji back to canon). What lenses are you using / can recommend for astrophotography? I intend getting something like the 14mm samyang for widefield astrolandscapes but looking at other options instead of using a small scope for when out for a few nights in the van. Currenty looking to find a few lenses that can do double duty to save spending extra on a small scope as well. I am currently thinking along the lines of a 70-200L, 135 f/2 etc... The camera will be an EOS R so on
  7. I did the same a few weeks back with mine, and can also confirm just what a difference this makes. In regards to re-aligned the primary, I used the barlow'd laser method.
  8. http://www.astronomerstelegram.org/?read=13620&fbclid=IwAR3Gp8FP9e2Nu3-UHPBMEXWP8CttQpJH2p8YMNIGQzXzdSj3ZwjoYxfUNQU
  9. very nice I can recommend the Baader MPCC if you are looking for a replacement. I have had very little issue getting it to work with both my 130PDS and my 200p
  10. Hi everyone Here are two more from last nights session. Lowers nebula, one I have had on my list for a while but not seen imaged much (now I know why, its very faint). really nedd to get a lot more data on this. The second is the Iris Nebula. Both had 20x300s using the QHY8L Colour CCD Thanks in advance
  11. Thank you. Est SQ around 20-21, Class 3 Bortle. I do however have a few caravan parks and villige not too far away so can get some pollution from there until late at night when most of the lights go out.
  12. Hi everyone First night out this year so took the oppotunity to have pretty late night and bag a few targets. Had to sort a few minor issues but pretty happy with the nights session. All taken with the 130PDS, HEQ5 and QHY8L Maximum intergration time for any image was 1 hour and 300s exposures Thanks in advance Mark
  13. Hi all After finally getting some nicer weather I finally got my first light and first comet of the year. 7x120s exposures, QHY8L OSC CCD Skywatcher 130PDS HEQ5 Thanks in advance Mark
  14. I have only been playing around with tinkercad so far but I have found that it has a metric thread generator built in. I am currently in the process of designing an adapter for my 130PDS so I can mount the MPCC inside the focuser tube. For this I needed T2 and M54 Threads, the generator only goes upto 50mm but the T2 threads have so far worked after a few trial and errors to get the correct internal thread sizing correct. Nothing stopping you using tinkercad for the threads and then importing them into fusion for the rest of the design. As a side not regarding print beds, my ender pro
  15. Ha the lack of coffee, I must have had my crystal ball out. I have just had 3 powercuts in the space of an hour and short of slicing the gcode to try and restart the print I am going to have to-do the entire thing. With that said, I am going to take into account what you have all said and go back to the drawing board in regards the design and try and simplify it a little whilst making it a little more modular.
  16. I had thought about printing them as desperate section however figured it would be stronger and easier integrated into the main body, this I may be wrong about and as this is a prototype it can be changed in the final print if needed. The supports should come away with little issue. I may do this in the final design but I am still wondering if bolting it has any real extra strength, I would thought printing it as a single section would be more right, by all means tell me if I am wrong as still new to this. I do like the idea of it being able to slide. Once this is all printed and I ha
  17. Sorry, Yes there is contact with the bed. In fact when printing I have rotated it 90 degrees so that it stands on its end. I worked this allowed for the least amount of supports needed and saved around 3 hours compared to having it on the bed as it is. The image above was taken whilst I was rotating it around to be able to the underside and made life easier as I was not looking through the base mesh. Depending on the slicing software, it will automatically place the object in contact with the bed when imported.
  18. Thought I would share a design I am in the process of printing. I wanted something that I could mount usb hubs, electronic project boxes as well as my guide scope and second scope / dslr on the back of my 130PDS The current setup has a set of home made scope rings for the converted 9x50 guide scope attached via a seperate spare scope ring and everything else under the mount on the pier. This I am hoping will allow me to say a little extra weight as well as use shorter cables and keep everything a little more tidy. Its setup so I can use it along with another dovetail piggybacked to th
  19. Hi everyone After a fair amount of cloud early on I managed to get out for a session this evening. I was fighting a combination of haze and moon light however I did manage to get this which I am pretty happy with. 8x120s Skywatcher 130PDS, HEQ5, QHY8L Stacked in DSS and processed using Pixinsight and Photoshop Thanks in advance Mark
  20. Hi everyone Managed to get out for the first time in what seems like a lifetime this evening A combination of cloud early on and haze towards the end cut down on imaging time. My electronic focuser decided to go on the blink aswell which did not help matters, that will get sorted tomorrow but did mean some images are not as sharp as I would like. I focused on getting multiple targets to dial in a few things and trying to keep integration times to below 1 hour per image. Getting Comet C2017 T2 Panstarrs for the first time this year was also a welcome bonus considering the moo
  21. Thats fine but I just wanted to let you know from my findings. I intended to run mine overnight so was a major issue for me. Have you setup Octoprint? If not I can highly recommend it if you have a spare Pi3 around. You can print over the network, remotely monitor it via webcam,create timelapses and allsorts Another nice feature is that you can cancel parts of a print. If you have two or three different bits printing on the best at once and one fails, instead of having to stop the entire print you can just cancel that particular part.
  22. https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3
  23. That as far as I can tell is the latest version. Unless they have created an updated firmware but not updated their github then there is no way of telling unless you run the test. I updated the firmware anyway just in case and have since changed the board anyway so a non-issue now
  24. I think on the stock firmware there is a about printer section in the menus. this may well give the firmware version
  25. Even the latest firmware has the same issue as far as I am aware. I have not seen anything that says its been fixed. That video was from May this year and the last update on their firmware was 2018 according to their github
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