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About spillage

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf

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  • Location
    Taunton Somerset
  1. I am sure you will more than happy when it comes back. I have only this weekend stripped and rebuilt my neq6 which is a bit more fiddly when it come to installing the belt mod. The heq5 mounts are so much easier.
  2. For portability I would say go with a second hand heq5 as they are always coming up for sale. Spend an extra £100 and install the belt mod if needed. I used to love my eq5 pro and you could lift up the whole lot including the scope and stick it in the shed. The mount head on a neq6 is a heavier weight on its own. In fact for you budget I think you could even purchase a second hand polemaster for quick PA if needed.
  3. I find the baader filters good enough for me and I could not really afford to go up to the next level. Any issues can normally be dealt with within processing.
  4. I got the book from ebay for £19 brand new. I was going to buy it using my google rewards money but after logging in realised that nearly all of it had expired.
  5. After a bit of a wait I finally have the missing pieces to my mount rebuild and I got myself a new book. Now to put all the bits to good use.
  6. Its one of these. Sure its in a cupboard somewhere..
  7. Ahh! I think I have a spare puck but it is the original skywatcher vixen one.
  8. not trying to upset anyone but I would normally sell for around 60-70% of the brand new cost.
  9. I had no choice and ended up with 36mm filters but I am sure many use the 1.25" filters. I am sure you should not get vignetting using 1.25 but going a little larger for a little bit extra is just covering your bases. I am sure users of the 1600 and 1.25 filters will be able to provide more info.
  10. I guess it depends on what you want to spend and how long you want to wait. I managed to buy the camera new and got a good deal on a second hand sx 7 filter wheel with baader lrgb ha o11 and s11 filter. I do not think I could deal with having to change over filter or filter wheel.
  11. Drift alignment will only help with PA. I am sure the built in PA of sharpcap may be easier to use as I think its more like the polemaster routine. I have never used sharpcap but setting up platesolving in APT (which is free) was fairly straight forward. As you are new to imaging I would recommend using N.I.N.A as this is so much like sgpro with a few added bits and is 100% free and uses astap for platesolving.
  12. Not sure what mount you have but I find PHD needs some delicate adjustment of different bits on different nights. Sometimes I need to adjust the exposure times other times I need to adjust the aggression of maybe RA or just DEC or BOTH. Just make sure you only make one change at a time a give the mount plenty of time to settle. If you have a EQ mount then use the bullseye target (think it is the AO but not sure) as this will help with balance issues.
  13. Once calibration has been ran then it will not need doing again as long as you do not remove the guide cam from the guide scope. Also remember to run off a darks library for the guider, if you are new to phd guiding then I would use 0.5 - 4 second darks.
  14. I have always started to use the PHD drift alignment tool as this will put the mount near to the equator/meridian then cancel the drift alignment and run calibration. I do not really use planetarium software so it saves me having to load up cdc and connect the mount and I am a bit lazy.
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