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alacant last won the day on April 5 2018

alacant had the most liked content!

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  1. Hi. I think it's best to keep the lens specification the same. A 135mm lens is just that. +1. IfI understand correctly, I think that means a 135mm lens. Not a 70mm lens. Perhaps best as @vlaiv suggests, use the field of view calculator rather than think in terms of crop factor. Cheers and clear skies **EDIT: wondering whether a Takumar 55mm would be close enough...
  2. Hi. Great shot. I had a go at the stars and took down the red a bit. Salu2
  3. Give yourself a plug. Your app is going places:) https://www.startools.org/
  4. Hi everyone The moon ruled out galaxies last night, so we went for this instead. Warm dry westerlies kept the Mediterranean haze at bay long enough for 90 minutes. Not sure about the yellow stars though; we were trying Siril's PPG debayering so it may be something to do with that. Must compare it against the default. Time... Thanks for looking and any tips -especially on the star colours- most gratefully received. Clear skies. 700d on 250p
  5. Hi everyone Not had the little 130 out for too long. We used an old eos 450d which a visitor had brought along. It made an interesting comparison with our 700d. The 450 seems more sensitive -we took 4 minute frames- perhaps at the expense of noise. Has anyone done a dslr sensitivity comparison I wonder... Thanks for looking and any 450d users do share your experiences...
  6. Hi. If you have screwed the cc directly to a m48 canon t adaptor, then you'll need a 3mm m48 ring. A low profile filter without the glass will do it. If you have the m48 to t2 adaptor -it looks like your use case- which comes with the cc, then nothing else is needed. HTH
  7. Hi. Getting there. Here we are after the chop. It's from a 200mm wide roll; 0.3mm thick. The only other stuff was -remarkably non bendable- 0.5mm rectangular sheet. I only need a 2cm tube extension. Do we reckon it'll do the job wrapped around the tube? Cheers
  8. Yeyhh, us too. Love it Galaxies in record time!
  9. Hi. More accurate and easier, so for me at least, better. A barlowed laser comes close, but you're then adding even more variation to something which really doesn't need it. Just my €0.02. HTH.
  10. Hi You may want to consider a Cheshire sight tube. This one also has cross hairs to nail both primary and secondary mirrors. Cheers
  11. Hi. Yeah, it's worse along the bottom edge and the astigmatism changes depending where else you are in the frame, you are slightly out of focus, the camera is tilted, the coma corrector (cc) is not at the correct distance from the censor or you are out of collimation. Or some combination of the above. First, make sure the collimation is perfect. There are two methods of connecting the cc one via m42 and one via m48. Please see the attached. Make sure that the focuser thumb screws are not bearing against the undercut on the cc causing the sensor to be non-orthogonal. Of course, be sure to read the common collimation myths. HTH
  12. Hi. Really? Are you sure it wasn't more accentuated toward one edge(s) or corner(s)? From which part of the frame is this taken? Is this a 130pds with B-MPCC and a Nikon? The Baader is susceptible to astigmatism with even the slightest of tilt or incorrect spacing. I'm sure we'll soon have this fixed. Cheers.
  13. Hi and thanks for the input. Yeah, it's a target which has mercifully not been subjected to the false colour treatment so we can at least have an idea of what it actually looks like. A few curves and levels later, I think I'm gonna rest my case with this...
  14. Thanks for the input. Yeah, colour I find the most difficult of all processing tasks. Will have another stretch. Cheers
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