alacant

Hi. I've an opticstar ar80 f5. It's very well made and has well corrected optics (example here). If that is anything to go by, the f7.5 should be even better but with not such a wide field of view. My recommendation would be your 80mm choice. HTH

Hi everyone. I'm hoping someone will be able to shed some light (sorry) on those annoying halos. This is a Newtonian reflector. Could this be the cc I wonder? Didn't have time to test without but then again, if I did, there'd be something else to complain about. TIA and thanks for looking.

Hi. 35mm. HTH.

Hi everyone. New moon and clear skies so we got an opportunity for something vague and watery. Thanks for looking and any/all comments and suggestions for improvements most gratefully received. canon 700d: 2 hours @ ISO800

Hi. I didn't, until I read the myths that is. Before that I made a mess of collimation by adjusting the focuser. Yes. The central screw is used to adjust the secondary toward or away from the primary. Loosen the three adjusting screws first. Whilst you're there, centralise the spider by making all the vanes the same length. A pair of compasses or dividers makes this easier. HTH.

Hi AFAIK they are for squaring the focuser -which you don't need to do- so I'd leave them and go through the collimation again. I find that if the secondary is too far up or down the tube, the camera sensor isn't evenly illuminated. Shouldn't be a problem if you have the primary OK so don't waste a clear night by fixing it! HTH and good luck.

Hi and thanks for your comment. Yes, Linux all the way; it's StarTools and Siril's debayer algorithm. Slowly coming to terms with the vocabulary:) Clear skies.

Hi everyone I used ahd debayering for this one. Absolutely no idea what it is but it makes me sound like I know what I'm talking about! Loadsa dots in the galaxy; globular clusters maybe? Thanks for looking and any comments and suggestions... All advice taken on board. canon 700d, 10" f4.7: 2 hours

Hi. Focus on the moon, lock focus and then plate solve to centre your target. HTH. edit: your CLS idea is good.

Hi everyone Overpowering moonlight last night so had to chose something bright. Slowly getting there with the colour; finally remembered to check the camera before fitting it to the telescope and removed the filter. Much easier to colour balance. A quick bash with Siril and StarTools y listo. Thanks for looking oh, and does anyone know why we get that -FWOABW- refractor-milkyness around the bright star? 700d on 250mm f4.7: ~an hour @ ISO800

You're making me feel guilty now! I focus once on a bright star at the start of the session and leave it there all night. Is expansion and contraction -that is what we're talking about I think (???)- enough to make a difference? Sorry, now I am off topic.... Cheers and clear skies anyway.

Hi. I gave up on my (my example had a hopeless focuser fat blue halo stars) 80ed for one of these and couldn't now go back. Not sure whether it would go with your camera, but if you want speed and image quality, then this has it:) HTH.

Try without the dark frame stack; light, bias and flat frames only work better with my 700d, especially if the light frames are dithered. HTH

Use a laptop!

I can't find much nebulosity I'm afraid. Even StarTools' big hammer didn't work:( Still thinking... If no one else comes up with a solution.... Do it again, but this time with dark and flat frames, unity gain and say, 90s snaps? Cheers, good luck and clear skies.