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alacant

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About alacant

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  1. Hi. The flat has what appears to be points of light which are out of focus and/or the flats are not being used as flat calibration frames. Can you post a link to a light frame from the same stack?
  2. PEC

    You need to attach. HTH.
  3. Hi. Was APT connected to the mount at the time you took the frames?
  4. ST4: don't forget to re-calibrate if you move a long way between targets. If you encounter problems, you may wish to have a look at this. HTH.
  5. Hi. I don't think it's ever going to agree; you can't fit either of the collimation tubes with any exact 'squareness' in the focuser. FWIW I've an f4. If it looks OK via the Cheshire then the stars also look fine. HTH.
  6. Great shot. Amazing what you can get in 5 minutes. ¡Enhorabuena!
  7. The subset of the -myriad possible- variables you list look fine. To begin with, keep everything at their default values. If you like, post a screenshot of your settings.
  8. Hi. APT Dithering with EQMOD. On my 700d, 15 works well with KS stacking, somewhere to start perhaps? YMMV but I find I need lots of -20 plus- exposures to see any benefit. I only use stand alone APT for short focal lengths. For 750mm you may be better guiding and let APT send the dither commands to the guide program. That way you can be sure that the dither has settled before starting the next frame. HTH. **The dither hits the mount hard; any backlash is 'magnified' so be sure you have that under control as it maybe the cause of your going out of frame.
  9. Hi. Have you entered the correct camera and the focal length of the lens or telescope you use on the Tools tab? If so, it's just a case of setting the dither distance you want for your snaps; APT will work out the pixel scale. 15 works well with my dslr. Remeber that if you change anything in Tools, to hit recalc. HTH.
  10. Yeah, thanks. I'm still at a loss as to how I could remove and replace the camera with the same orientation. I learned the hard way; I thought that flats would be OK when taken with the camera lined up visually with the focus knobs at a later date... ** For the passive springs, I simply loosened the locking screws and placed the new springs over them. I see that you replaced the screws. Is there any disadvantage to my method? TIA.
  11. Hi. Yes, bad habits. I know and so assume that so does everyone else! It's around 50 minutes. And again. Thanks. Confirmed as 2174 -or 2175- in Orion.
  12. Progress report. I did laser_jock99's compression spring and fat dovetail modifications. Of course now I don't know which has made the biggest difference, save to say that the collimation checks as near as dammit each time. It may have the reputation of impossible-to-collimate-Cheap-Chinese-Rubbish, but it takes great snaps. I had a chance to try a skywatcher coma corrector -which plate solves to 730mm- giving a wider field and f3.5. Unless there's a bright star in the fov, I think it gives a better image than my Baader. The focus is really tricky with the swcc though (faster ratio?); a cracked Bahtinov mask doesn't help either and so I think I missed dead centre focus. Anyway, here's a snap with a Canon 700d:
  13. Hi. Sorry can't be specific but I do rate Bresser. I have the f5 Bresser 152s. The build quality is first rate. I think the colour correction is better than the f6.5 you cite as it's a Petzval with an f10 doublet. The field is flattened by the extra lenses too. The views are amazing with the 2" 32mm eyepiece. I also have a Bresser 6" reflector. The views are poor compared to the refractor but for photography, the snaps come out better -if you can stand the spikes. HTH.
  14. Hi. Good shot. Ideas? Maybe lose the reducer so you don't need to crop so much? HTH.
  15. Then I say you're all good. If you want to take it further, you'll need to post a picture of either a star test -free- or the view through a Cheshire -about 10 GBP-. Best to stop looking at guides! HTH.