Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

  • Announcements

    sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_lunar.thumb.jpg.ef4882eb5fb3610f8a68e5e6913de0e3.jpg

Uranium235

Moderators
  • Content count

    6,426
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5,832 Excellent

About Uranium235

  • Rank
    Main Sequence

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Worcestershire, UK
  1. Black holes cannot have a mass so small, the definition of a black hole is that it is a collapsed massive star... and as I'm sure you are aware - that is much, much heavier and denser than something that is merely a few times the earth's mass. No maths required really!
  2. Help me help a beginner AP:er

    The only thing that is tricky with the Samyang is focus, its manual focus and at f2 the adjustments are tiny... almost has if you havent moved it. But take your time, the end result is worth it (use a b-mask). Also get a dew strip, that will prevent the focus drifting in the cold weather and keep the dew at bay. Edit: Oh, it helps to have a dark site too... at f2 you can really suck up LP quite quickly.
  3. Help me help a beginner AP:er

    What the 135 will buy you with a non modified DSLR is not just the star cluster, but a fair chunk of the perseus molecular cloud (you dont need to be modified to pick up dust). The only time mods come into action is if you are looking for h-alpha. If you want to crisp up details, just shoot an area of interest (ie: M45) with the 300mm, then use registar to map it to the shorter focal length image (blend it in with photoshop).
  4. Help me help a beginner AP:er

    Everything! Yes ok, its got a shorter focal length but you can use that to frame more than one object at the same time - or cover larger areas of sky. The bonus being that the samyang can operate wide open at f2 and have very good corners stars (something you will never get with the Canon). Here are a couple of snaps from the Samyang, albeit taken with a CCD:
  5. Sh2-171 - Cannistra Bicolour

    On the colour layer, I remove all stars then blend then Ha lum layer in as luminance - in iterations, using blur and saturation at each stage until I can add the lum layer at 100% without any washing out of the colour
  6. HEQ5 vs NEQ6...benefits

    Heh heh well if youre fit and young(ish) its not that much of a chore to lump it around. Its just a case of breaking it down into steps when it comes to setting it up. I can drive over to the dark site and have the NEQ6 PAed and running in about 20min... assuming I havent had a "senior moment" and forgotten something! The worst case being that I forgot the counterweight once... doh! (cue a pringles tube full of rocks taped to the counterweight shaft!)
  7. HEQ5 vs NEQ6...benefits

    Futureproof yourself, get the NEQ6.
  8. Looks good to me, and its the right approach to just hammer it in Ha and use that at Lum (ive been doing it for years!). The only time where you wont get away with it is where the OIII carries a lot of structure (ie: M42 or the Veil). Your colour scheme is just about right, roughly similar to what I normally get: Though the thing is, every time you do it - you always get a (slightly) different result!
  9. SGL2017 Picture thread

    Great photos quite funny to see my little boy in a few of them
  10. You can't image in a storm!

    lol... no chance. That Mk1 Star71 is irreplaceable, as its one of the good ones
  11. U235 Processing Workshop notes

    For those who were unable to make it to the workshop, had to drop out to deliver another talk (or who missed the first hour... whoops!) - I will attach the notes for both the basic and advanced sessions. The advanced did run over by quite a bit as it was always going to be a challenge to squeeze such a complex process into just one hour... although Mr Ibbo did quite well for his first bash at it. For the original Scott Rosen walkthrough, the link is as follows: http://www.astronomersdoitinthedark.com/C025-Bringing-Out-the-FaintStuff/M81M82IFN-Bringing-Out-the-FaintStuff-Final.html Its slightly different to how I do it since we were using a couple of different tools, but both are suitable for skinning the same proverbial cat (give yourself at least 2-3 hours to attempt it!) * If you wish to distribute or quote any procedures or data, please remember to credit its original source (or link to this thread). Advanced.zip Basic.zip Stock curves.zip
  12. You can't image in a storm!

    I wouldnt even think about risking it tonight, one loose fence panel and its bye bye telescope!
  13. Using lower iso ?

    Lower ISOs come into play when you are using very fast optics (ie: f2), and you want to retain star colour. A 5min exposure @ ISO800 (at f2) would more than likely have very little star colour. But if you halve that (ISO400), you are doubling your well depth - and therefore increasing your chances of retaining star colour. With an uncooled DSLR, you probably want to avoid quite long exposures (over 10min) since the buildup of thermal noise will become an issue - unless its quite cold outside!
  14. SGL 2017 Chit chat

    For those still at lucksall, probably a good idea to brace yourself - the sky is a really odd colour at the moment.
  15. If you want to combine images (ie: create a composite for a higher dynamic range) its fairly straightforward. The video I created (the first one), was just to cover the basics - so I didnt really want to go into more depth. A decent little tutorial for composite images is here: http://www.astropix.com/html/j_digit/laymask.html After a while you will notice that layer masks can get you out of all sorts of trouble, and their uses arent just confined to restoring cores of blown-out nebulae or galaxies. Edit: I think whatever video I do next, I should hardcode the annotations in with the video rather than reyling on post production youtube annotations becuase they seem to lose sync.
×