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About Uranium235

  • Rank
    Main Sequence

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  • Location
    Worcestershire, UK
  1. Remote imaging experiances

  2. Scope advice for imaging

    Yep, thats the one, however the ZWO are quite popular too - but I cant see where you mentioned what guidescope you will be using. A good choice at your focal length is a finderguider - its basically a 9x50 finderscope with the rear removed and a guide cam screwed in. Or you can get kits like this to make it simple: Mini: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/guide-cameras/mini-guide-scope-bundle.html A normal 9x50: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/guide-cameras/sky-watcher-evoguide-50ed-guidescope-zwo-asi120mm-bundle.html But... its best to mount the guider (and its shoe) on a dovetail attached to the top of the tube rings - because if its off to one side (like a normal finder shoe) it will throw off the balance... plus id attach it with stronger hex bolts to minimise flex. If you already have a 9x50, then great! All you need is the adaptor and the guide cam. Adaptor here: https://www.modernastronomy.com/shop/accessories/adapters/sky-watcher-clones-to-t-thread-adapter-for-straight-through-finders/
  3. Scope advice for imaging

    Your choice of gear is sound, but dont forget the 0.85x ff/fr for the 80ed (its essential IMO). The only thing I might change is the guide cam, I'd probably opt for a QHY5-II (being as mine - the Mk1 is now discontinued). I've had mine for at least 7 years now and its been pretty solid. But that choice for me is just down to personal preference.
  4. Kidderminster newbie

    Ahh, other side of town then! Shouldn't be a problem, just a 5min drive for me. Shame the weather is so dire, no breaks in the cloud due for at least a week.
  5. Kidderminster newbie

    No problemo Im on the imaging side of things, but I have been known to use an eyepiece a few times. ..lol. Are you DY10 or DY11?
  6. Geoptik Adapter and Nikon G Lenses

    Ok, try removing the lens while the camera is switched on. It shouldn't break anything, though the camera will report an error. I've no experience with nikon lenses, but with canon lenses that have no manual aperture setting, that's the way I would set it (setting up with dslr, then remove).
  7. Geoptik Adapter and Nikon G Lenses

    Try this: Attach the lens to your DSLR camera as normal, set the aperture. Turn the camera off, remove the lens.... done!
  8. Kidderminster newbie

    Well, well, well I have a fellow SGL'er in my midst! Yep, the LP can be severe in places - I used to live by the hospital before moving to the edge of town. Drop us a PM anytime you wanna have an observing session, I have access to a good dark site - which I will start visiting again once the threat of ice has gone (dont like driving on country roads in the winter).
  9. Apologies for naff weather... just ordered another Samyang 135 f2 :)

    1. JohnSadlerAstro


      That will clear the skies, for certain! New kit always does..... :D 

  10. Dual rig ccd cameras

    If you can, get another 314 (2nd hand). Its a rig I used to have and it generated a lot of data, pretty quickly. However, one point to note is that unless you have an adjustable saddle for the 2nd scope - youre going to be using guidescope rings... which I always thought the 80ED was a little bit heavy for. Great when it works, but if the alignment goes off a bit - its a case of fiddling about in the dark to fix it. With two mono cameras you can still capture the Lum and colour at the same time, just run it this way... for every 3x600 of Lum, you will have 1x600 in R,G and B - which would be good enough ratio of Lum and RGB for a decent LRGB image. However that would also involve an EFW (more expense... sorry!...lol).
  11. Calling Atik 314L+ users

    I think you might notice that all cooled cameras have ventilation slots/grills. This is so a decent intake of air can be obtained to cool the TEC, that warm air is then expelled through the back fan.
  12. About 45 min, depening on where you store it.
  13. How about somewhere in the middle? The Samyang 135mm f2 is a very good lens. Wide enough for you? (though it is a mosaic) 1hour per panel in Ha - x9 panels
  14. What to look for in a CCD?

    Blimey.... that's a bit of a surprise! Probably still a good idea to scour the net for example images from a number of telescopes in the same price bracket. So, with that in mind - One thing to look for though is a threaded connection to the camera, try to avoid push-fit setups because they can introduce a slight tilt into the imaging train.
  15. What to look for in a CCD?

    News to me Sara! Its been a few months since I last checked on the status of the MkII versions - so perhaps I missed any updates. Its a bit of a shame really because that telescope really was quite good (if you get a good example). Hmmmm... I suppose an alternative would be the Espirit Pro - but even that is not without its foibles.