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Russe

Imaging with the 130pds

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9 minutes ago, TareqPhoto said:

That's what making it as a nice one to have for fun more, BUT, i mentioned APO refractor, there are so many refractors APO and small, and many prefer to go with a refr than a newt, so keep that in mind too.

Well no pain no glory. But the results this thread shows with the SW130PDS have no competence at the price.

For refractors you have the ED72 around 300 euros, coupled with TS optics x0.79 reducer flatenner (+ 180 eur), I have one indeed, I plan to use the 332mm focal length of the ED72 for extended nebulosity zones that the SW130 cannot cover. Meanwhile keep looking the amazing work many do with this newt bargain imager.

Cheers.

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Speaking of results, here's what I could catch during my last september holidays in 3 nights — Yes I'm the multi-subject-per-night kind of man :-P.
Kind of tribute to this marvelous photon hoover :)
(details on separate pages in my gallery)

Night 1:

1585207440_20180901m31.thumb.jpeg.abfe8e4e10ebb929cba2f447955a362e.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

 

details M31

Night 2:

1181069159_20180907m8laguna.thumb.jpeg.9379cf0368ef0bf368885a5900511b60.jpeg 716912670_20180907m20trifid.thumb.jpeg.c2c07a75ce003fc363f0629fa0822843.jpeg 1849943417_20180907m17omega.thumb.jpeg.75b6443595a02adba71541207ea4bdc9.jpeg 932851802_20180907m16eagle.thumb.jpeg.c66d7eaa175507d3cb8bcf1d11360ae0.jpeg 424872514_20180907m33triangulum.thumb.jpeg.4d6e6dae47cf36e379cdc27c7ac0554f.jpeg

details M8 Laguna details M20 Trifid details M17 Omega details M16 Eagle details M33 Triangulum

Night 3:

1055379354_20180908m45pleiades.thumb.jpeg.c1c5330cc9811d1c6da31afd6b754ce7.jpeg 1076128434_20180908ghostsofgammacas.thumb.jpeg.2d737bec8bdd87d6c602038ce26ecdcc.jpeg

details M45 Pleiades details Gamma Cas

Unfortunately no clear night during christmas holidays -- apart the one before I leaved :(

PS: sorry if layout is messy, editor/preview was a bit hard on me...

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28 minutes ago, Susaron said:

They have less extreme versions as well which look really good. Their ONTC and UNC newts look great, but more expensive. Thanks for I decide I like these newts I might go for one of those one day. 😉

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By the way guys,

I've been playing around with SGP autofocus options last two nights... it was cloudy/fogy and etc, so my experiments were not completed.

The best HFR result i managed to achieve was actually, initial result after I focused with Bahtinov, even before I started to play with autofocus settings.

My best score was around 1.3 HFR with Luminance (Baader).

and something around 1.2 HFR with HA (Baader 7nm), but it was already quite... cloudy... it probably can be better.

What's your best result? 

My motor step size is 2.4 microns (can adjust to 0.067, but as I noticed, even 2.4 is a bit too small for auto focus routine... probably... not sure yet.. but it was my first impression)

P.S. I am with ASI 16000MM-Pro and Skywatcher's CC (which is 0.9 reducer also).

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On 03/01/2019 at 21:42, jjosefsen said:

Yeah. I was just looking for a sanity check before going all Texas chainsaw on the thing. 🙂

Be careful I think 15mm is the max or else the end of focus tube will slip off the two rollers before it hits the stop , I inherited a 130pds when I bought my 200pds it had I think 20mm cut off and would slip off , best double check 👍

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54 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

Be careful I think 15mm is the max or else the end of focus tube will slip off the two rollers before it hits the stop , I inherited a 130pds when I bought my 200pds it had I think 20mm cut off and would slip off , best double check 👍

It all worked out. Got first proper light last night. 😉

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Quick stack and a few tweaks in APP of the first light of my little 130pds, just to see what I got. :)

40x180s in luminance.

I did actually do 7x180s of R,G,B but all the bright stars are very green when I combine it.

I can see that the red master is very weak compared to the other two, so probably not enough data on it yet.

All in all I am encouraged by what I see, and hopefully this problem with the green is just a lack of data.

Pleiades-Luminance-quick.thumb.jpg.13808e4895d7c9bbce84765eec5f7fa7.jpg

Edited by jjosefsen
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Not a lot of green in m45.

Try using one of the many techniques for balancing the channels.

 

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21 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Not a lot of green in m45.

Try using one of the many techniques for balancing the channels.

 

Oh I know! 😁

I tried a couple of different things, and I can knock it down in post processing. But I think it is just a matter of getting more data to be honest.

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(NOW RESOLVED HOPEFULLY)Help required I’m  after the offcut that gets cut off of the end of the draw-tube ,i inherited a 130pds but too much was cut off  literally 6mm too much ,looking to have offcut tac welded back on to stop focuser slipping off draw tube rollers, so if anyone can help, pm me please.

Edited by bottletopburly

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10 hours ago, bottletopburly said:

Help required I’m  after the offcut that gets cut off of the end of the draw-tube ,i inherited a 130pds but too much was cut off  literally 6mm too much ,looking to have offcut tac welded back on to stop focuser slipping off draw tube rollers, so if anyone can help, pm me please.

Befor you weld, maybe you have some kind of extender?

As l recall one of us already had a similar problem, try asking him directly if he managed to sort it out.

 

 

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I've recently purchased this adapter:

http://www.opticstar.com/Run/Astronomy/Astro-Accessories-Imagers-Opticstar.asp?p=0_10_5_0_3_811

That will take about 10mm off the optical length. I'm using the Baader MPCCIII CC that will be mounted in the focuser with this part:

https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/astro-t2-system/baader-adapter-m36.4--t-2-(t-2-part-03).html

and various T2 extension tubes.

As the MPCCIII pushes the focus out by about 10mm anyway, I'm hoping that the additional 10mm taken off the optical path by the low profile T2-EOS adapter will take the end of the focuser tube out of the light path sufficiently.

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2 hours ago, RolandKol said:

Befor you weld, maybe you have some kind of extender?

As l recall one of us already had a similar problem, try asking him directly if he managed to sort it out.

 

 

lol yeah that was me , I got another draw tube but not smooth enough, I think I may have sorted it I only need 8mm may have enough on replacement tube to knock a bit of end . 

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19 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

lol yeah that was me , I got another draw tube but not smooth enough, I think I may have sorted it I only need 8mm may have enough on replacement tube to knock a bit of end . 

Hahaha ;) ooopsy ;)

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Well I finally got my 130PDS out again after not being able to use it since the middle of the summer as it got badly out of collimation and I just couldn't fix it.  

3 people tried to help at an Astro camp in October, but it still wasn't right.  Continued to try myself, but ended up taking it to RolandKol who kindly managed to sort it out for me.  

This was the test image a few nights ago.

Rosette_SHO.png

and a 2nd version with RGB stars added. 

Rosette_SHO_with_RGB_stars.png

Edited by carastro
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Picture from last year (29th December), with all the problems suffered that night, bad collimatio, bad focus, astigamtism, guiding. But I think is a good example of the field given by this scope. 20 x 180 subs with the QHY168C, in this "clusters soup" in Cassiopea. M103, C10, NGC654, NGC659, Trumpler 1 and Czernik 4.

Cheers.

Mario.

 

HT0p7_0p30Ms_tgv_curves_usm_resamp.jpg

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15 hours ago, bottletopburly said:

Help required I’m  after the offcut that gets cut off of the end of the draw-tube ,i inherited a 130pds but too much was cut off  literally 6mm too much ,looking to have offcut tac welded back on to stop focuser slipping off draw tube rollers, so if anyone can help, pm me please.

I superglued a little square of printed circuit board material on the flat to create a new stop. Works a treat.

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5 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

I superglued a little square of printed circuit board material on the flat to create a new stop. Works a treat.

I wasn’t sure if doing that the camera would reach focus , I assume it does then ? 

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14 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

I wasn’t sure if doing that the camera would reach focus , I assume it does then ? 

It does here, with nearly 10mm to spare. Needs a short extension to work with an EP.

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21 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

It does here, with nearly 10mm to spare. Needs a short extension to work with an EP.

Great that has saved me a job how much did you extend the stop by I’m assuming about 6mm 

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2 hours ago, bottletopburly said:

Great that has saved me a job how much did you extend the stop by I’m assuming about 6mm 

Not sure, I just put it where it would just prevent the barrel dropping off the ball races.

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Telescope: Skywatcher 130PDS
Mount: Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro StellarDrive 5
Camera: QHY 163M
Filters:Ha + O III + S II 
Exposure:

Ha (green channel):
24 X 300 sec

O III (blue channel):
24 X 300 sec

S II (red channel):
24 X 300 sec

Image data collected using: Sharpcap
Processed in Pixinsight and Photoshop CC

1634857071_NGC2244Narrowband_final.thumb.jpg.d89b40be81c2761f62a1e1ec2878253c.jpg

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Always a bit tricky imaging under a bright moon, but even more so when you’re in clumsy mode. Last night I managed to disconnect the power from my mount whilst aligning. Twice! Then I dropped an eyepiece by slewing the scope without having it fixed properly (fortunately it landed on the rubber eye cup). Finally I spent ages trying to work out why I couldn’t focus my guide-scope until the penny finally dropped that I was twiddling with the locking ring and not the focuser. So I’m taking this picture as a victory of the scope over its owner!

15x 10 min subs – Canon 600d – 130 pd-s- 7nm Ha filter.

 

Rosette Ha 190116.jpg

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  • Haha 2

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15 hours ago, Whistlin Bob said:

Always a bit tricky imaging under a bright moon, but even more so when you’re in clumsy mode. Last night I managed to disconnect the power from my mount whilst aligning. Twice! Then I dropped an eyepiece by slewing the scope without having it fixed properly (fortunately it landed on the rubber eye cup). Finally I spent ages trying to work out why I couldn’t focus my guide-scope until the penny finally dropped that I was twiddling with the locking ring and not the focuser. So I’m taking this picture as a victory of the scope over its owner!

15x 10 min subs – Canon 600d – 130 pd-s- 7nm Ha filter.

 

*IMAGE*

I wish my nights of "getting things a bit wrong" still ended in such a lovely image! Usually I just have cold hands and frustration to take to bed with me....

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