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Everything posted by cuivenion

  1. I want to use it for widefield when I get one.
  2. Hi, I've seen the Skywatcher Evoguide 50ED also advertised as the 50DX. Is there any difference? Is the 50DX an update?
  3. Hi, you can use a shower cap stop to the light leak at the primary. I use this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333526609970
  4. Thanks for the advice David, I'll definitely bear all that in mind. Do you have suggestions for the reputable brands I could buy for the converter please?
  5. Hi David, message received. I wasn’t going to disassemble the battery, I’m not that brave. The battery seems to have a fairly standard jack connecter, so I was just going to put a buck converter between the battery and the mount using a wired connection. I will double check that the battery has a management system inside before trying it out though. The hoover is a Shark IZ251UK, bought from a uk retailer. I’ve added a couple of images of the battery if anyone’s curious.
  6. Good point, I would imagine it has, unless the managment circuitry is somehow included in the hoover and not in the battery. When you use the hoover it just cuts out when the battery runs out. It doesn't get gradually slower like I suspect it would if there was no management system and the voltage was getting lower and lower. The batteries are lithium ion.
  7. I think I'll give it a go at some point then. That E-bike battery sounds good!
  8. Hi, I recently got a cordless hoover with two lithium-ion batteries. I'm wondering if there's any reason I can't use a buck converter and use the batteries to power my mount? The batteries are 2350 Mah DC, 25.2v, 59.22 watt hours. They won't last that long I imagine, 4-5 hours per battery with a HEQ5 if I'm lucky but that would be enough for me.
  9. Just came across this at Starizona. The new version of the ED50 flattener can be used with DSLR's. It has 55mm backfocus. https://starizona.com/products/evoff-field-flattener-for-skywatcher-evoguide-50ed?_pos=3&_sid=ed9902717&_ss=r Thought it might be of interest for ED50 owners.
  10. I usually do at least three iterations when using Sharpcap.
  11. I'm using an oncooled ZWO ASI224 for DSO imaging. I did make a cooling system for it but it ended up misting the coma corrector so I've decided not to use it while imaging. I've decided to get as much image time as possible by using the cooling system to do darks later, but I have a fairly wide range of temperature for the uncooled light frames. Obviously it would be best to get as close as possible in temperature for each light but pre processing would be much easier if the darks were within 0.5c of the lights, would this temperature difference be a bad idea?
  12. Hi, yes I meant the main gear that meshes with the worm. vlaiv gave a good explanation in an earlier post.
  13. You can still get backlash from the worm and the main gear. If the main gear isn’t perfectly round it will bind at some points and be too slack at others.
  14. Well I did a star test but the results wouldnt be helpful as I realised that the coma corrector/camera was tilted after I took them. The stars were better after I corrected this but still not right. The day before imaging I realigned the focuser using astrosheds video as a guide and also shimmed the bearing plate on the focuser to try and fix the tilt in the focuser tube. I also redid the collimation. It all looked good until the focuser tube stated to tilt again the day after. Looks like this is going to be an ongoing process.
  15. Just finishing up another collimation attempt. I'l hopfully do a star test tonight and show you an image.
  16. Nice, I didn't know that. I'll check it out.
  17. Don't think they do it for the HEQ5 though unfortunately, so I'll be watching this thread with interest.
  18. Just to be sure is area A or B you're looking at? Thanks for your help.
  19. Hi, how did you recognise the rotational error? I do have a cheshire which one of the images above is from but I'm not sure whats indicating the rotational error.
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