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Whistlin Bob

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About Whistlin Bob

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    Star Forming

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    Burton upon Trent
  1. Welcome- and congratulations on some wonderful images. My favourite there is the widefield- the detail is exquisite.
  2. I'd say go for it. These were taken with a 550d with DIY cooling added and a range of filters. It's a good camera.
  3. Wow- that's a terrific collection- some stunning images in there. I wouldn't, in your position, be too worried about spending more time on individual images if you're getting results like that. I especially like the variety of focal lengths you're using to give interesting presentations of familiar objects. I totally concur on the use of tools to speed things up- plate solving on APT has made an enormous difference for me.
  4. Excellent thread. Skies cleared 90 minutes later then forecast last night, too late for any imaging or a proper session so plonked the 8" on the lawn and worked my way through the Orion list on page 1- getting as far as eta before the equipment and seeing stopped me. Really nice little session. Diffraction was causing me a few problems, and the aperture mask is too small for this sort of thing, but I found by holding my hand over half the aperture it greatly improved things. When there's a bit more time I'll definitely come back and have a go with better equipment
  5. I bought a 600d from Camera Jungle 18 months ago- it's been really good, I'd happily get another. The nifty fifty recommended above can give great photos, but it's a beggar to manually focus it at night.
  6. Have you 'trimmed' the drawtube of your focuser at all? Sometimes it can protrude it over the primary and affect star shapes. When it's a big problem it affects stars all over the image and is very obvious, but when it's a small problem it only affects one side/corner. To check this get your camera to it's focus point and then have a look down the front of the tube- see how far the drawtube protrudes over the primary mirror. I had this problem quite severely (stars like yours in the middle steadily getting worse until they liked like Pacman at the top left corner) and trimmed around 10mm off. This fixed it, but I have to be careful not to wind the focuser out too far!
  7. Welcome to the forum! Lovely picture- a 200p and a DSLR are a brilliant combo for full disc pictures of the moon. You might find a faster exposure will give you a little more detail. I bought my 200p Dob at the start of my interest in this hobby 5 years ago and it's a wonderful scope. The views it renders of the moon in the eyepiece are epic, it's pretty good on planets and has enough aperture to go after DSOs- especially at a dark site. The only danger is that in my case it fuelled an unexpected and hopeless addiction with the night sky. I now own 5 scopes, 3 cameras and countless bits and pieces. I am both poorer and happier. You have been warned!
  8. +1 for APT. I find it a bit clunky and it takes a good few sessions to get used to it, but it really has it all.
  9. Definitely the right move. Later models often come up cheaply and are far better- as several have mentioned the 450d is big step forward from the 400d.
  10. Hmmm- it's touch and go I'd say. By my maths (not always my strong point) in a 1 minute sub it should be covering 902" and your model is doing 898". The max pixel scale I have with my SA kit is around 4" so it's right on the limit. However, I suspect that might be within practical tolerance (your polar alignment, unless perfect will probably cause at least the same error) - and they'd probably say they've already given you a solution with the option to guide. Was the test performed with batteries or mains power?
  11. I have an 8" and 14" dob and Bottle 5 skies at home. In the 8" it's very rare I can see more than the core. With the 14 I can make out a much larger area, but it's faint and I can definitely see more with practice, but dark lanes are visible and there's a larger milky presence. On the other hand, last year, I took my 14 to a darker site (my guess is Bortle 2) and saw the whole thing... in my finderscope! I'm afraid the best upgrade for your scope is a dark sky.
  12. Wow- that is simply stunning and a wonderful image. You've really captured some detail in there with some very skillful processing.
  13. I think you deserve a medal for getting that under those conditions!
  14. This is my first full colour picture from a mono camera This nebula sits next to Navi in Cassiopeia (Gamma Cass)- apparently the star is gradually eroding the nebula. The nebula itself is both an emission and a reflection nebula, but I think I’ve only managed to capture the emission parts here. I took this over 2 nights on 15th and 17th Jan. It’s been a bit of a learning process to put this together: 40 mins of 2 minute subs in each of LRGB on 15th 100 mins of 5 minute subs in Ha on 17th It certainly takes a bit more effort to process mono, and it wasn’t helped by loads of problems with ice and fogging on my secondary. This led to not getting much Ha signal, and I’ve used layers in Gimp to bring it out (don’t tell Pixinsight- they’ll excommunicate me!). I think there’s probably more can be extracted from this data- especially around the body of the nebula- but I’m still pleased to have a full colour image! I had another go at this a few days later and the whole scope completely iced up- see picture at the bottom!
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