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Whistlin Bob

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About Whistlin Bob

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    Star Forming

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  • Location
    Burton upon Trent
  1. Whistlin Bob

    The gift of excellent transparency

    Brilliant!!! The Horse head and Stephan's Quintet in one night. "A profound choice of words marked the occasion" I'll bet!!! Love it
  2. Whistlin Bob

    Skyvision 16 inch goto dob

    Wow! That looks simply fantastic...
  3. Whistlin Bob

    Imaging with the 130pds

    Here's my Monday night effort- M52 and the Bubble Nebula. 20x 5 min lights + flats, darks and bias. 130pds / HEQ5pro / Canon 600d / IDAS D2 Filter Stacked in DSS and Processed in Pixinsight
  4. Whistlin Bob

    Zoom eyepieces

    +1 on the baader zoom. It's in my scope 90% of the time- with the Barlow it effectively gives me 3.5-24mm.
  5. Whistlin Bob

    My first telescope

    So many ways to skin a cat! The 130p is a great scope and you can't go far wrong with that. I like @teoria_del_big_bang's 200p suggestion for the simple reason that it's how I got going- it's a smashing scope with more light gathering power and gives great views- check out the FLO review. But beware that it is quite big: you'll want the space of a dining chair to store it upright. And with any manual scope it will take some time to get good at finding things- but I'd still recommend it over goto both to get bang for buck and to learn the sky.
  6. Whistlin Bob

    The Joys of Visual Astronomy

    Hang in there @Maged. Depending on your sky quality a ten inch will show plenty. I started to feel like this a few years ago, then observed with some other people who were more experienced at star hopping and it really moved me forward. Turn left.... is a great book, but I also need sky Safari, a Rigel or telrad, a RACI finder and a comfortable seat (yes really!) to find stuff. If there's a club near you where you can find others to learn from it'll really help.
  7. Whistlin Bob

    Canon 300D Modified

    @tooth_dr has got some nice images there, so it can be done, but if you've got a little budget you can definitely make life a bit easier. I modded a 400d, but after a bit of research discovered that at any iso over 400 on those early canons, the noise made it almost unusable except either on the brightest targets or with huge numbers of subs (I got a nice M42 though). The 450d was a big step forward at the time and they can be had 2nd hand for less than £100 and there are videos showing how to self modify, that would be considerably better.
  8. Whistlin Bob

    The Crab Nebula

    Love the detail you've caught here and the star colours.
  9. Whistlin Bob

    Hi all. What a great site!

    Funny to see others in the same boat. I had a 200p as my only scope for several years, but then a dose of aperture fever hit and I bought a 14”. I now share the 200 with my son, but even if I didn't it would still see use because the 14” does need assembling and collimating, whereas the 200p is just picked up and plonked down where I want it. In theory it's possible to have a quick ten minute session, but I never have the willpower to stop!
  10. Whistlin Bob

    The 14" build is finally underway

    Great project, and love the quote! I have a 14” (manufactured, and nowhere near as beautiful as I suspect yours will be) and it is indeed full of stars.
  11. I've had similar problems- 3 things helped me: using a RACI finder, using a Rigel (both covered already) and using the fov simulator in Sky Safari. I hang my phone on the scope with a hands free mount and have a circle on ss to match my finder and move a fov-width at a time. It's very rare that I can't find any stars in the RACI finder, so this works really well. For really faint stuff I shrink the FOV to the size of the ep I'm using. I got most of the way round Markarians chain earlier this year with this technique. Also- when something is just too faint to see in your conditions, you know you've got the scope looking in the right place and can stop searching and save it for a better night/location.
  12. Just to back up the advice on here- the HEQ5 is a good compromise. I use it with a 130pds with no problems at all. I also sometimes use it with a 200p which I just about get away with if I balance carefully and it's not too windy. It is also more portable than mounts with a higher payload, which may be important if your home location suffers from light pollution.
  13. Whistlin Bob

    Imaging with the 130pds

    Finally got a finished version of last Saturdays subs. I managed to collect 16 ten minute Ha subs (it was a bright moon), along with another 10 of the shed wall (not included here!). I used them for the B&W image below, then combined them into the red channel of an RGB image from 9th October on the same target. My framing was a bit different this time (I definitely need to improve my framing), so the colour image below is the intersection between the 2. 130pds, Canon 600d, HEQ5, Baader Ha Filter (Ha), IDAS D2 filter for RGB from October.
  14. Whistlin Bob

    Imaging with the 130pds

    So presumably a smaller illuminated field? I wondered if it might be something like that. Perhaps one day I'll get a short f/l frac instead- but I'm sure the 130pds will keep me going for a long time to come, before further investment is needed!
  15. Whistlin Bob

    Imaging with the 130pds

    I suspect the number of nights where this occurs is quite small. It's a good thing to be aware of, but unless there's a change approaching that, then I'm going to carry on hanging out in the single focus club!

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