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carastro last won the day on February 2

carastro had the most liked content!

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About carastro

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    North Kent/SE London

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  1. carastro

    Talk to a Photographic Society ???

    I have done several Astrophotography talks, sometimes to U3A groups and also to a local photographic society and they were really staggered and amazed at what goes into producing astro-images. If I knew how to condense a PP presentation for E mail, I could send you a copy. I am also booked to do another later in the year. You have done me enough favours, so if you would like a copy of my talk (if I can manage to E Mail it) message me your E mail address. You can then pinch any ideas you want to from it. N.B. I go on holiday midday tomorrow, so won't respond after that for a week or so. Carole
  2. Beautiful image, this is my favourite target and one that is too low for us in the UK, amazed you can get it from Ottowa. Carole
  3. carastro

    M16 Modified Hubble Palette

    Lovely image Rodd. Wish i could manage to get only 8 hours on an image, 4 hours is normally the best I can get with my limited opportunities. Carole
  4. That can be a problem with those non motorised mounts, it is best not to push the scope as it will bounce back, but rather try to use the slow motion controls, and because the mount is not "tracking" (following the Earth's rotation), targets will move as the earth rotates and the more it is magnified the quicker that will happen. I had a similar scope and mount when I first started so I know how tricky it can be. Holding a phone up the the eyepiece for taking photos is also not very easy, I do outreach for members of the public who want to do that, and they fiddle around for ages trying to get the camera positioned correctly over the eyepiece by which time I have often had to re-position the target for them several times. It really is just trial and error. Most of us who do astrophotography have a camera which fits in place of the eyepiece, but that's another VERY long and expensive scenario. Jupiter is in the best position at the moment for viewing, though it is low in the Sky. If you don't have it already, download stellarium (it is free) and find out where it is in the sky. It's just about the brightest thing up there at the moment apart from the Moon. Carole
  5. carastro

    Synscan and the 'Home" setting

    Haha - so much for fixed stars! I wouldn't insult you about your time entering skills?? Lol, I have checked and double checked on those occasions when it goes wrong, and even got friends with me (at astro camps) to double check and it is right. Goodness knows why some days it just goes on the blink. I had a dreadful time at camp recently where the mount just would not go anywhere I asked it to. Polar aligned fine, level, all input data correct, correctly balanced, astro chums checked the data too and after two horrible nights of a wayward mount I decided to put it back to factory settings and it seemed to behave itself after that. Carole
  6. carastro

    Synscan and the 'Home" setting

    Just checking - have you balanced the load correctly, both in Dec and RA? I have never looked at the "show position" on my mount, I didn't even know it was there. Been doing this for some 8 - 9 years. You need to make sure your start/Home position is as accurate as possible, make sure all the input data is correct, and everything balanced and all should work OK. I don't always find my alignment star in the FOV either, its annoying. Some days it can be spot on and other days I have to slew around to find the alignment stars. No idea why it differs, I do the same procedure every time. Once the alignment has been completed the mount is pretty good at finding the chosen target. Carole
  7. carastro

    Show us your travel kit

    Generally I take my full rig with me in the UK when I travel to astro camps. But this is my abroad travel kit: Ioptron sky tracker and DSLR (next time I will take my cooled CCD camera). This is set up on the patio of our friend's apartment in Southern Spain.
  8. I found it impossible when I was a beginner to see anything through a barlow (presume you are putting the lens on the end of the Barlow as well?) As stated above use lower magnification until you have had a lot of practice. The finderscope needs aligning with the main scope, but of course you need to put an eyepiece into the main scope in order to do this. Do the alignment in the daytime and point at a distant land object and adjust the finderscope triple screws until the finder and main scope are looking at the same thing. The finder gives you a big field of view (FOV), and makes it easier to find things. The eyepiece as stated above will be held on by a small screw, this needs to be retracted to get the eye piece in in the first place. Carole
  9. I can't answer that question as I know nothing about the ASI cameras, hopefully some-one else will know. FOV is another question, you might find this website useful to compare cameras: http://www.12dstring.me.uk/fovcalc.php Or this one https://dso-browser.com/telescope-simulator Carole
  10. Wirral Man, pleased to hear you have got/are getting a mono camera. A manual filterwheel works fine, especially if you are going to do one filter per evening. Where I found it a chore was trying to change the filterwheel during the same evening when I didn't want to move off the target, and often the scope would be angled in such a way that I couldn't see what filter I was choosing without some cortortions - even on one occasion lying flat on my back in the obsy (thank goodness it wasn't out in the open), with a torch trying to see the bit of the filterwheel where the filter was labelled). You do need to check the focus when you change filters, though what i tend to do (though some people would frown on it), is check the focus on all filters before I start and make a note if any does not appear to be par focal. That way i can collect data from the matching filters without stopping to refocus. Yes use the Ha, Oiii and Sii as the RGB channels. they can also be used for the Hubble pallette as Sii Ha Oiii (Sii being in the red channel, Ha in the Green channel and Oiii in the blue channel), you'll need to tweak the colours a bit as the Green (Ha) will be a bit overwheming. Take a look at my recent Horsehead done from SE London, I used Ha as the luminance channel + RGB. https://www.astrobin.com/327655/C/?nc=user Best of luck, and any problems we are always here. Carole
  11. I changed from a DSLR to a Mono camera and at one stage later I bought a OSC camera as well to try to speed up the capture process. Having tried both I would never touch a OSC camera again, I hated it in comparison to my Mono camera, focussing and finding the target is so much easier with Mono, the data is far superior with Mono, and once I had bought myself a Motorised filterwheel rather than the manual filterwheel I was using, life got a whole lot easier. Also there is the option with Mono to do narrowband imaging which has been a life saver for me in my LP location. I found capture and processing with a OSC quite complex ( I could never seem to get the settings right and the bayer matrix) and in the end I sold it and stuck to the Mono camera and filters and have never looked back. OK there is a bit of a learning curve in combining Mono filters, more so in getting them all lined up. But once over that hurdle, its not difficult. If I can do it - you can do it. YES all stacking can be done in DSS and processing in Photoshop. The only extra I bought was Registar (to line up those filter images, but I have recently heard that it can be done in the more up to date versions of DSS, though i have never done it. there should be a thread on SGL explaining how. Carole
  12. carastro

    Horizontal banding on Canon 550d

    I can't see any banding in the above images. I haven't done much DSLR imaging for a few years now, but when I was, I recall being told to remove the SD card from the camera if you are downloading directly to the PC as something electronic happens in the download causing the bands to appear when stretched. I subsequently removed the card and seemed to make a significant difference. This might be different sort of banding we are talking about here though. But might be worth a try. Carole
  13. carastro

    Organising your imaging files

    I keep them all on my main computer where I do the processing, and also on my back up drive. I have one folder for all the RAW/Fits images and then a separate folder for each target within. I tend to record the scope and camera used within the capture file name which my capture software allows me to do, albeit an abbrevation, so I know for future reference. I then have a separate folder for stacked and processed images (a folder for each target and date, sometimes location too. Finally I keep a "final image" folder which I save as a PNG file for uploading to Forums. Once in a while I go through the RAW/Fits folders and delete any i think I am unlikely to re-use. Carole
  14. carastro

    Should I Use Astromart?

    Don't know anything about Astromart, but I am sure some-one will be along soon who does. I always advertise on here or on UKAstroBuySell. Carole
  15. carastro

    Focus a DSLR and lens ?

    Yes mine doesn't have any infinity marking on it either, so that's what I did initially, focussed in the daytime and then put my own mark on the point of focus on a land object (with a bit of tippex). This gets me in the ball park when I go outside at night. Carole

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