Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_30_second_exp_2.thumb.jpg.7719b6f2fbecda044d407d8aba503777.jpg

Russe

Imaging with the 130pds

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, alacant said:

Hi. Good advice:)

Another way I've found is to use an OAG with PHD2's PPEC. 

HTH

i looked at oag, it can save a bit of money and weight for me, but I have been told that oag cant work with my dslr..

  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have just joined the 130PDS club.  it came with a complete set of clouds in the box so it has not been out yet. Has anyone a picture of the the focuser fitted with the SkyWatcher Auto Focuser?

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The sw 150pds, but very similar, afaIk.

The bracket is fixed with the 4 corner screws. You need to remove the focus lock screw.

IMG_20181221_093956.thumb.jpg.8f59fa2a542e83507f83330839863e65.jpg 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, steviebee said:

I have just joined the 130PDS club.  it came with a complete set of clouds in the box so it has not been out yet. Has anyone a picture of the the focuser fitted with the SkyWatcher Auto Focuser?

I watched this video when I got mine(also came with clouds), very comprehensive 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpIteLt3xcw&feature=share

Edited by lnlarxg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Wim, that's great. Silly question now is it still possible to use the fine focus manually with the Autofocuser on? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, steviebee said:

Thank you Wim, that's great. Silly question now is it still possible to use the fine focus manually with the Autofocuser on? 

In my experience not possible, unless you want to turn against the motor.

But I suppose the purpose of the auto focuser is to provide handsoff micro-fine focusing without introducing any vibrations (great for visual). So somewhat makes the ds focuser redundant 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, you don't use the ds function. But otoh, the slow setting of the controller is good enough, and as @lnlarxg wrote, the whole point is to be hands off, so you don't introduce vibrations.

With the motor turned off, you may be able to loosen the connecting piece between the focuser and the motor to allow manual focusing. I've never had use for this.

If you use the handcontroller that comes with the autofocuser, just make sure you have an extra 9 V battery at hand. You wouldn't want to lose power in the middle of a cold viewing/imaging session.

As for me, I replaced the hc with an arduino that emulates the moonlite protocol. This makes my focuser indi (and maybe ascom?) compatible.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It has begun..!
?

Sorry for the [removed word] post, I'm just super excited!

IMG_20181226_195552.jpg

IMG_20181226_195539.jpg

Edited by jjosefsen
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, jjosefsen said:

It has begun..!
?

Sorry for the [removed word] post, I'm just super excited!

 

IMG_20181226_195539.jpg

So, what's the plan? Or is the 130PDS delivered as an IKEA set nowadays?

  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

?

54 minutes ago, wimvb said:

So, what's the plan? Or is the 130PDS delivered as an IKEA set nowadays?

Haha good one. ?

Disassembly - Done

Flocking - Done

Install rca plug in tube for possible future heater - Todo

Paint secondary - Todo

Change collimation screws on secondary - Todo

Reassembly - Todo

Collimation - Todo

 

And then a real test to see how it works, how much I need to chop off the focuser tube, if any.

?

Edited by jjosefsen
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, that makes sense. I never bothered to flock my 150PDS, but I am very interested in your RCA solution. So keep us posted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, jjosefsen said:

?

Haha good one. ?

Disassembly - Done

Flocking - Done

Install rca plug in tube for possible future heater - Todo

Paint secondary - Todo

Change collimation screws on secondary - Todo

Reassembly - Todo

Collimation - Todo

 

And then a real test to see how it works, how much I need to chop off the focuser tube, if any.

?

you have missed one part...

x) Shorten the Focuser's drawtube (1cm minimum) :)
 

And good luck and patience while placing the secondary back in the position!!! :)

the rest is piece of cake! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
28 minutes ago, RolandKol said:

you have missed one part...

x) Shorten the Focuser's drawtube (1cm minimum) :)
 

And good luck and patience while placing the secondary back in the position!!! :)

the rest is piece of cake! :)

It's in the last line of my post, I wanted to see how far it protrudes into the tube first.. but obviously it would be nice to do it right now so I don't have to align secondary twice!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, jjosefsen said:

It's in the last line of my post, I wanted to see how far it protrudes into the tube first.. but obviously it would be nice to do it right now so I don't have to align secondary twice!

You wont need to touch the secondary for it, you even will not need to remove the focuser as you can loosen the bolts holding focuser's knobs and remove the drawtube only.

Drop me PM once you will on to it, will explain or even show it in detail.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, RolandKol said:

I noticed that part! :) 

but he wants to test before "circumcision" :)

?

Yeah I would hate to cut off too much!

I needed to remove the secondary and focuser for flocking. But I bought a 2" concenter for secondary alignment so should be doable.

That flocking really makes the tube dark!!

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, jjosefsen said:

?

Yeah I would hate to cut off too much!

I needed to remove the secondary and focuser for flocking. But I bought a 2" concenter for secondary alignment so should be doable.

That flocking really makes the tube dark!!

 

Not sure which cam and CC you will use, but for me 1cm was not enough, -  for Skywatcher 0.9 CC and ASi1600MMM

Edited by RolandKol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
34 minutes ago, RolandKol said:

Not sure which cam and CC you will use, but for me 1cm was not enough, -  for Skywatcher 0.9 CC and ASi1600MMM

I Will be using a 183m with a tso maxfield 0.95 cc, so probably need to cut off more than 1cm too..

Edited by jjosefsen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I needed to take 15mm off mine (I'm using a modded 600d and a sw cc), but I only cut about 80% off- I left a section in place at the bottom of the drawtube stop it falling out- it doesn't seem to affect star shapes.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, wimvb said:

Ah, that makes sense. I never bothered to flock my 150PDS, but I am very interested in your RCA solution. So keep us posted.

A few pictures of the scope after reassembly and of the rca plug..

Look at that beautiful black secondary mirror and assembly. ?

No idea if all this makes a profound difference, but it has been fun. It feels like "my scope" now! ?

IMG_20181227_194729.jpg

IMG_20181227_163939.jpg

IMG_20181227_164008.jpg

IMG_20181227_162251.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good.Now you just need clear skies to test it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, jjosefsen said:

A few pictures of the scope after reassembly and of the rca plug..

Look at that beautiful black secondary mirror and assembly. ?

No idea if all this makes a profound difference, but it has been fun. It feels like "my scope" now! ?

IMG_20181227_194729.jpg

IMG_20181227_163939.jpg

IMG_20181227_164008.jpg

 

Consider placing a washer between the secondary screws and the holder. The holder is alu so the screws dig in after a while making adjustments difficult. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Adam J said:

Consider placing a washer between the secondary screws and the holder. The holder is alu so the screws dig in after a while making adjustments difficult. 

I've seen a video on this mod.. I will see if I can find one.. ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Mark Daniels
      Been looking for neat solution to taking small scope abroad using my stuff and not paying out for a dedicated set up. 
      Have a skywatcher finder which with a barlow and 90 * gives good results. I was looking at an Orion mini eq tabletop tripod but hard to get hold of. 
      Play a bit of music in a band and have a few microphone stands so got to work with a hack saw. 
      I used a mic holder as in photo they are about £3 and cut the holder part off and filed flat. Drilled hole through to accept large camera thread (£3 screw bolt)
      this allows shortened micstand to fit to the alt az mount. (Mic stand 15 of ebay. )
      the dovetail was expensive as i wanted green and got from germany £30 with couier the white finder bracket from tring harrisons £6
      so thats £60 but if i went for black dovetail less than £40  seeing i had mic stand already quite a cheap solition
      the stand is very stable and provided the telescope is moved clockwise when rotating freehand the threads stay tight  with the fine controls either direction works well
      overall wiegt is bit over 3 kg and will fit in a standard aluminium camera case 
      hope this if useful 
      Mark👍
       







    • By Lachlan
      Hi everyone, 
      as the title suggests, I've noticed that the RA axis of my HEQ5 pro mount has some give. I don't notice it while the clutch is unlocked, but it's very obvious with a locked RA clutch. Any suggestions on what could be causing it/what adjustments need to be made? 
      Thanks 
    • By Saj_37uk
      Looking for the 2" low profile extension tube that is provided with most of the skywatcher scopes. I have a used 190MN that didn't come with the extension tube and need it to get accurate focus. 
       
      I believe Orion scopes may have one too.
    • By fifeskies
      The weights from my NEQ6 are beginning to look scruffy.
      Is there a good colour match car type spray that anyone would recommend for sprucing them up.
    • By Rhushikesh-Canisminor
      Posting in this forum after too long!
      One of the first attempts at taking photos of the moon.
      All photos taken using skywatcher 90mm refractor with eq2 mount, Nikon DSLR and 2x Barlow here and there.
      No exposure.
      Basic editing in cellphone.
      Thank you! Suggestions highly appreciated!




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.