Imaging with the 130pds

[Adam J]

3 minutes ago, matt_baker said:

How do you deal with focuser sag with your FW + 1600MM? 

If you search backwards in this thread then you will see I made a post covering that.

Maybe around AUG 2019.

Edited June 2, 2020 by Adam J

[matt_baker]

Just trying to wonder how to reduce the tilt with a DSLR as I think your way would increase the spacing and I wouldn't want that

[Adam J]

On 03/06/2020 at 00:53, matt_baker said:

Just trying to wonder how to reduce the tilt with a DSLR as I think your way would increase the spacing and I wouldn't want that

Correct it is intended to work with a dedicated camera, not a DSLR.

Adam

 

[lnlarxg]

130pds is available on Astro buy/sell.  (Not mine, but not often they come on 2nd hand market).  
 

https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=162385

 

[paul mc c]

20 minutes ago, lnlarxg said:

130pds is available on Astro buy/sell.  (Not mine, but not often they come on 2nd hand market).  
 

https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=162385

 

I seen that....but for £ 16 more you can get a brand new one,minus the dent.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-130p-ds-ota.html

Edited June 9, 2020 by paul mc c

[spillage]

I think they are asking way too much. I would expect to pay around £100 for that.

[Piers]

The screw that sticks out of the tube rings, I think it's for mounting a camera.

Has anyone been able to remove it?

It looks like it should just unscrew, but I've tried and so far no luck.

[TheCounter]

Finally, my custom Monorail base mount arrived. I designed this with a CAD program and a friend cut it out of a aluminum block. It fits even better than the original Skywatcher base!

Can't wait to do some testing.

On the image you can see the new base at the bottom, with the TS Monorail focuser on top. I also added a motorized focuser. Plugged inside the focuser tube is a TS Superflat GPU coma corrector with exactly 53mm spacing, a IR/UV cut filter and on the top is a "Visual Back T2 to 1.25"" adapter for using the collimation tools with the GPU installed.

[RolandKol]

1 hour ago, TheCounter said:

Finally, my custom Monorail base mount arrived. I designed this with a CAD program and a friend cut it out of a aluminum block. It fits even better than the original Skywatcher base!

Can't wait to do some testing.

On the image you can see the new base at the bottom, with the TS Monorail focuser on top. I also added a motorized focuser. Plugged inside the focuser tube is a TS Superflat GPU coma corrector with exactly 53mm spacing, a IR/UV cut filter and on the top is a "Visual Back T2 to 1.25"" adapter for using the collimation tools with the GPU installed.

Looks solid!

I hope to see some NonCroped test results

And I am Very curious, - what are these 4 bolts for?

Edited June 11, 2020 by RolandKol

[TheCounter]

39 minutes ago, RolandKol said:

And I am Very curious, - what are these 4 bolts for?

 

I didn't have any grub screws, so I had to use normal screws, but I'll switch them out later.

Those are for holding the focuser on the base plate. If you loosen them, you can take off the focuser without loosening the base plate itself.

I ordered a 3D printer aswell, this will save me a s*itload of money as I constantly need something new. First thing to print is a rotation gauge that fits between the GPU comacorrector and the focuser tube. With that it will be a hell of a lot easier to set the right rotation for the camera

[Stub Mandrel]

15 hours ago, Piers said:

The screw that sticks out of the tube rings, I think it's for mounting a camera.

Has anyone been able to remove it?

It looks like it should just unscrew, but I've tried and so far no luck.

Take the ring off, it unscrews from the other side 🙂

[RolandKol]

22 hours ago, TheCounter said:

I didn't have any grub screws, so I had to use normal screws, but I'll switch them out later.

Those are for holding the focuser on the base plate. If you loosen them, you can take off the focuser without loosening the base plate itself.

I ordered a 3D printer aswell, this will save me a s*itload of money as I constantly need something new. First thing to print is a rotation gauge that fits between the GPU comacorrector and the focuser tube. With that it will be a hell of a lot easier to set the right rotation for the camera

Thanks for explaining

As per 3D printed rotator...

Not sure if it's a good idea... Unless your rig is placed in the spot with quite a stable temperature... Plastic is quite sensitive to temperature changes...

And dont even think to print it from PLA, - it will deform during summer.
(PETG or ABS as a minimum)

But it's another story, - anyway, my 3D printer brought me a lot of joy  these two hobbies do match nicely

[Piers]

On 11/06/2020 at 20:35, Stub Mandrel said:

Take the ring off, it unscrews from the other side 🙂

Unfortunately, That's what I've already tried, it seems it was screwed in rather to enthusiastically in the factory.

I'll have to try heat/gold/lube.

At least I know I'm not trying something futile now!

[Focal_Bassist]

I received my 130PDS and EQ5 Pro mount before all the rain came last week. This is my first ever telescope.

I managed to get first light with it last night on M13. 57x 15-second exposures at ISO 800 with Canon 600D. No flats or darks, as it completely skipped my mind at 1AM as I was packing away! Learn for next time!

I'm really happy with my first attempt! Just shows what a little gem this scope can be!

Edited June 22, 2020 by Focal_Bassist

[cuivenion]

Off to a cracking start there mate.

[Avocette]

On 14/06/2020 at 07:43, Piers said:

Unfortunately, That's what I've already tried, it seems it was screwed in rather to enthusiastically in the factory.

I'll have to try heat/gold/lube.

At least I know I'm not trying something futile now!

The screw is a standard photo camera screwthread 1/4”-20 UNC. As you suggest it may have been screwed in too enthusiastically and it’s steel whereas the tube ring is aluminium alloy (possibility of electrolytic corrosion). It will come out with a bit of grunt. I use the thread in reverse with standard microphone 3/8” to 1/4” thumbgrip adapters to hold my guidescope.

[JoshHopk]

Hi all,

I received my 130PDS about a week ago as my first AP scope, and have spent the last few days getting it all set up and balanced. Last night was first light, and I decided to go for the Iris Nebula as it was high up and its size is a good fit for the 130 and my Canon DSLR. I used the StarTools free trial to process it (Hence the low resolution) as i just couldn't seem to get any decent results with Photoshop , (any ideas?).

Canon EOS 100D (Stock), HEQ5 Pro, 130PDS, 0.9x SWCC, 9x50 finder and ASI224
28x 3min Guided Exposures (1hr 24min Total Integrated Exposure)

Criticism and comments welcome!

Thanks, Josh  

Edited June 25, 2020 by JoshHopk

[Simon Dunsmore]

Hi Josh, Great shot. I just received my 130pds two weeks ago and I'm really looking forward to First light. 

Sounds like I have very similar kit to you. I see that you're using the SWCC, how have you found this. 

Thanks for the inspiration! 

Simon 

[JoshHopk]

33 minutes ago, Simon Dunsmore said:

Hi Josh, Great shot. I just received my 130pds two weeks ago and I'm really looking forward to First light. 

Sounds like I have very similar kit to you. I see that you're using the SWCC, how have you found this. 

Thanks for the inspiration! 

Simon 

Thanks Simon,

The SWCC is all in all a great corrector, it eliminates coma right to the corners. However it does act as a 0.9x reducer, which means that I have to rack in the focuser quite a long way, causing the tube to take a bite out of the stars. This really isn't a major issue and it can be easily fixed with a hacksaw, or by moving the primary up the tube. I like the 0.9x reduction as it puts the scope to 585mm at f/4.5. Some people say that it suffers with some internal reflections on bright stars (Alnitak for example), but I'm yet to find this problem as I rarely image targets containing such stars.

Enjoy your new gear 
Josh  

[alacant]

11 hours ago, JoshHopk said:

Criticism and comments

Hi

Lovely shot.

You probably could get similar results with photoshop, but it's going to take hours of trial and error to get close.

Have a go with the StarTools denoise Non-linear Response. Each shot is different in it's requirements but the final denoise is usually the icing on the cake.

I had a go with the png but there's not much colour information in it. Then again, I'm hopeless with colour. Post -a link to- the stack if you like.  HTH.

 

[JoshHopk]

14 minutes ago, alacant said:

Hi

Lovely shot.

You probably could get similar results with photoshop, but it's going to take hours of trial and error to get close.

Have a go with the StarTools denoise Non-linear Response. Each shot is different in it's requirements but the final denoise is usually the icing on the cake.

I had a go with the png but there's not much colour information in it. Then again, I'm hopeless with colour. Post -a link to- the stack if you like.  HTH.

 

Wow! That's cleaned it up to no end. Thanks for the advice, I'd tried denoise but I think I may of chosen the other option. 

Here's the link to the stack, I forgot to take flats so there may be some gradients: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vd8gfkszyhsocj8/NGC7023_32bit_tif.TIF?dl=0

Thanks again, Josh

[Jamgood]

Still loving reading through this thread and seeing all the fantastic images and info/advice. (Currently on page 95)

I'll be joining the 130PDS appreciation society very soon. Managed to finally get one ordered today. Should be with me early next week. 😀

[alacant]

5 hours ago, JoshHopk said:

the link to the stack

Ok. Got the blue out of it...

[JoshHopk]

11 minutes ago, alacant said:

Ok. Got the blue out of it...

Wow! Is that all from StarTools? I’ll have to experiment with it and use some of the different tools

I think I’ll use longer exposures next time and a lower ISO

Edited June 26, 2020 by JoshHopk

[alacant]

56 minutes ago, JoshHopk said:

use longer exposures next time and a lower ISO

Hi

Not sure what ISO you used but the 100d works best at 400. Maybe keep the exposures the same but at ISO400?

To see an improvement, keep taking frames until you just can't bear it any longer!

Cheers