Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

stargazine_ep2_banner.thumb.jpg.e37c929f88100393e885b7befec4c749.jpg

JoshHopk

Members
  • Content Count

    71
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

51 Excellent

About JoshHopk

  • Rank
    Nebula

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Buckingham
  1. I’ll try putting off assaulting my new scope for as long as I can, but I’m sure I’ll get to it
  2. Think I’ve decided for myself Im going for the SW 0.9x as it’s nowhere near as fussy as the Baader and the reflections it produces are easily fixed in post processing.
  3. Hi all, I know there's a lot of these threads going around, but I thought I should start a new one instead of trying to revive an old one. I'm going to get a 130PDS soon and I'm aware I'm going to need a coma corrector. I will be using my Canon 100D (APS-C). I think I'd be right in saying the SW 0.9x will need me to move the primary up or cut the focus tube, but has some reflection problems on bright stars, so would I be better of going for the Baader MPCC? However, some have said that the Baader is fussy about spacing, so how would i go about altering this? Thanks in advance, Josh
  4. After StarSense is calibrated and has finished its alignment process, you can then GOTO anything you like, the mount will know where it is without you having to move it to its HOME position
  5. I use this power supply for my HEQ5, I think it would work with the NexStar mount. I’ve used Celestron’s 7ah power tank with my NexStar mount and it works a treat
  6. The way I used to do this is to take my barlow, and remove the lens from it. This left a 1.25” thread to screw my filter into. The only problem with this is that the barlow has to be secured into a visual back via thumb screws, not threaded, which is slightly less secure but will be fine if the screws are done up tight. I’m sure there’s a more reliable and easier way than this…
  7. The tube is slightly front heavy I believe, which is causing the DEC axis to become unbalanced. Loosen the two bolts that grip the dovetail and move the tube backwards a small amount and tighten the bolts again. Keep testing the balance after each nudge and leave it once it’s balanced.
  8. JoshHopk

    Kris from Essex

    Hi Kris, welcome to SGL
  9. The second cable i linked (Identical to the one that Dave has also linked I believe) should work fine
  10. Hi Emilis, To connect your hand controller to your laptop, you'll need the cable that came with the mount, which should have a RJ-12 connector on one end and a female RS232 on the other. The RJ-12 goes in the bottom of the hand controller and you'll have to get an adapter for the other end that goes from male RS232 to USB, like this. Alternatively, you can use a direct RJ-12 to USB cable, like this. HTH
  11. Hi Niko, welcome to SGL
  12. Yes I hadn’t thought about that. As Louis mentioned it can be broken down into two manageable pieces. You could get a mount for it later down the line, which would certainly help with manoeuvring it.
  13. Thanks Michael, I had considered refractors, but they exceed the budget a bit
  14. Thanks Olly, I hadn’t considered resolution
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.