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About JoshHopk

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  1. Hi Graham, It looks like an lens flare to me; probably caused by scattered light coming from the bright moon. I'm not certain though, I'm sure others will share their insights. Josh
  2. Hi, I am going to try and sell altogether for the moment. It was very easy to set up; just mount it and plug it in
  3. For sale is my Celestron NexStar 5SE, which is in great condition; no damage apart from the usual dust. Included is the Celeston StarSense AutoAlign unit and hand controller, which makes aligning a breeze. This is in equally good condition, the lens appears smudged but the unit performs perfectly. Also includes Celestron Plössl 25mm 1.25 inch eyepiece, Celestron 1.25 inch StarDiagonal, hard case and Celestron Piggyback Mount. Happy to send via courier at buyers own risk or collection from Buckingham. Payment via PayPal or cash on collection. Will consider splitting if unab
  4. Hope I'm not interrupting anything! Really loving this little gem of a scope. Imaging - SW130PDS, Canon EOS 100D. 28x 3mins @IOS800 Guiding - SW 9x50 Finder, ASI224MC Mount - HEQ5 Pro (Rowan Mod) Other - SW 0.9x CC Stacked in DSS and processed in Photoshop 2020 Comments and criticism welcome!
  5. Hi there, There's a popular control system for equatorial mounts called EQMOD. This software is full of useful tools, including a 'Mosaic GoTo' mode. This will be perfect for wide field shots of large nebulae, the moon and the milky way. There's a great many guides on EQMOD, both on their website and here on SGL, that will give you info on how to use the software and its tools. Here's the link for more info: http://eq-mod.sourceforge.net/mosindex.html HTH, Josh
  6. Hi there, Because DSOs are very dim, you need to use long exposures to bring them out in images. You will be limited to very short exposures on a tripod, as it doesn’t track the constantly moving sky. This will cause your image to be blurred; at low focal lengths however this is not so apparent. Something like the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer would allow you to take much longer exposures. With your current set up, and perhaps a light pollution filter, you may be able to do some wide field images of the Milky Way, but not much else. You can also download a planetarium software, such
  7. Ah, I was shooting at 1600. Thanks for the info, I’ll use 400 next time. Thanks, Josh
  8. Wow! Is that all from StarTools? I’ll have to experiment with it and use some of the different tools I think I’ll use longer exposures next time and a lower ISO
  9. Wow! That's cleaned it up to no end. Thanks for the advice, I'd tried denoise but I think I may of chosen the other option. Here's the link to the stack, I forgot to take flats so there may be some gradients: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vd8gfkszyhsocj8/NGC7023_32bit_tif.TIF?dl=0 Thanks again, Josh
  10. Thanks Simon, The SWCC is all in all a great corrector, it eliminates coma right to the corners. However it does act as a 0.9x reducer, which means that I have to rack in the focuser quite a long way, causing the tube to take a bite out of the stars. This really isn't a major issue and it can be easily fixed with a hacksaw, or by moving the primary up the tube. I like the 0.9x reduction as it puts the scope to 585mm at f/4.5. Some people say that it suffers with some internal reflections on bright stars (Alnitak for example), but I'm yet to find this problem as I rarely image targets cont
  11. Hi all, I received my 130PDS about a week ago as my first AP scope, and have spent the last few days getting it all set up and balanced. Last night was first light, and I decided to go for the Iris Nebula as it was high up and its size is a good fit for the 130 and my Canon DSLR. I used the StarTools free trial to process it (Hence the low resolution) as i just couldn't seem to get any decent results with Photoshop , (any ideas?). Canon EOS 100D (Stock), HEQ5 Pro, 130PDS, 0.9x SWCC, 9x50 finder and ASI224 28x 3min Guided Exposures (1hr 24min Total Integrated Exposure) Cri
  12. Hi there, You'll need a Canon T-Ring as you say, and also a suitable T-Adaptor; these screw into the T-Ring and then either thread onto the focuser or simply sit inside the focuser.
  13. How were you aligning? If it was just through the polarscope on your mount, remember that the reticle rotates with the R.A axis, so Polaris would have appeared to have moved if the R.A axis was not in the same place as it was initially.
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