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Second Time Around

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About Second Time Around

  • Rank
    Nebula

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  • Location
    Near Canterbury, Kent
  1. Yes, weekly episodes each Friday, and free to Amazon Prime members.
  2. I was dubious until I tried them, but I'd agree about image stabilised binoculars. We're all different, but I can see as much detail in 8x binoculars compared with 10x when handheld because of shake. But with my 12x36 image stabilized Canons I can see even more, despite the smaller objectives. Just push the button and shake disappears! The Canons are very good quality with a lovely flat field. The 12x36s cost about £600, the 10x30s about £400. If this is your price bracket I think you really should try them out. In fact, for hand-held binoculars I can't ever imagine buying non-image stabilised ones ever again!
  3. I've got the Antares 10x60 Versascope finder and can thoroughly recommend it. It has a long dew shield and comes with a 25mm crosshair eyepiece that you can swap out for your own 1 1/4 inch eyepiece. It also has a T2 thread so you can attach a camera. It's very good value for money at just £145 including the mount. Go to https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/antares-versascope-10-x-60-guiding-x-hair-finderscope.html.
  4. I too was very impressed with the Bresser Messier design and feel it's the best of those from China/Taiwan. I gather that one review of an early 8 inch Messier said that the rocker box wasn't tall enough and this might limit the weight of eyepieces that could be used. Does anyone know if this has been sorted since?
  5. Does anyone remember the old RAS screw threads on eyepieces? They were the standard when I first took up astronomy. When and why did they disappear?
  6. Having just bought a Diamond Steeltrack for the 10 inch DOB I'm rebuilding this was extremely useful. Many thanks indeed!
  7. I hate to say it, but what about if and when flying cars take off?
  8. I too wonder how accurate the scales are, especially Bortle. According to Clear Outside, where I live is Bortle 4, mag 20.83. However, it doesn't seem as good as that. I'm guessing that the magnitude scale is based on the 2015 survey (anyone know?) Certainly light pollution has got worse here in recent years. Also, these last few months have seen very few clear nights, and even then transparency has been poor. Finally, my eyes are not nearly so young as they were first time around stargazing. Indeed, my pupil opens to a maximum of only 4.5mm now. What effect would the latter make, and would there be a difference between naked eye and telescope limiting magnitude?
  9. 22mm Panoptic wanted
  10. Wanted 22mm 70 degree eyepiece with screw off eyecap such as AstroTech AF70, Omegon Redline SW, TS-Optics Expanse WA, Tecnosky Superwide HD or similar.
  11. Check the interpupillary distance (IPD). This may not go small enough for a child to close each barrel enough to merge the field of view. I'm sure others will come along with ideas for specific models.
  12. I've put wanted ads up for a 22mm 70 degree and a 22mm Panoptic. Can anyone help please? I've already got a 22mm Nagler, 22mm Vixen LVW and a 20mm Pentax XW to test as soon as my 10 inch mirror comes back from recoating from OOUK. I'll report back here in due course.
  13. Like Gina, I too was taught that we have no colour perception in very dim light. However recent research seems to show that this isn't completely so. See for instance https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3829393/ More practically, I doubt that many of us observe in dark enough conditions that we use scotopic vision (i.e. rods only). I'd be interested to hear the experience of others who've observed under darker skies than my Bortle 4 ones. For instance, does Mars still appear red? Or is Mars so bright that looking at it damages dark adaption and brings cones into play? In which case does scotopic vision kick in only on cloudy nights in remote locations? I certainly agree with Gina that as dim a light as possible is needed. But even with my dimmable Black Diamond headlamps set to minimum, my white telescope tube still appears tinged with red, so the light is probably brighter than optimal.
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