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Everything posted by Avocette

  1. I did just that about a year ago and find the combination great. I sandwich a TP-link 7 port USB3.0 hub between the two units. This is powered from one of the Powerbox 12V outputs, and it provides a 2.1A USB socket to power the RPi4. The current supplied is perfectly adequate since the RPi4 USB ports drive relatively low power to the directly connected devices (the TP-link unit and an SSD).
  2. I’ve been an avid user (rather than a developer) of KStars/Ekos/Indi with a Raspberry Pi 3+ and since they were launched in summer 2019, RPi 4s. I monitor, update and occasionally ask questions on the forum at www.indilib.org where the are certainly developers posting news and answering queries. I suggest you offer your skills over there where I’m sure you would be welcomed.
  3. Here’s a photo from which you can perhaps see my balance arrangements. The SW ED80 has its rings at the rearmost position (some boltheads prevent them actually touching the focuser casting). Then the dovetail is held also at its rearmost position. For the 61EDPH II I replaced the ludicrously short supplied red dovetail with a SW 21cm green one which leaves plenty of length for adjustment. The clamshell wide ‘ring’ is again close to the back end of its range of movement.
  4. Where is the balance point of your fully loaded telescope/guidescope/cameras combination? If it’s not within the length of the present dovetail, perhaps you could turn it backwards, at least as a test, before ordering the rings and new dovetail?
  5. I have just completed a very quick (but careful) dismantling and reassembly of my SkyMax150 Pro, taken some measurements, taken some photos and blown away a very few dust motes from the optics. The primary mirror diameter (measurement K in Magnus’s nomenclature) was 163mm overall and around 160mm if I discount the ground edge which is chamfered at about 45°. The Primary Mirror Retaining Ring (J) is 47mm. The Secondary Baffle Skirt is 52mm (H) at the wide end, and has a depth of 43mm (C&I). The metal tube is 2.2mm thickness and 178mm internal diameter. In my scope, this means that t
  6. @Captain MagentaDuring these stormy days I was thinking of having a look inside my SkyMax 150 and just wondered if you had yet found a moment to dismantle and reassemble yours? I bought mine second hand seven years ago and became convinced that ‘someone had had it apart’ probably for cleaning, when I noticed evidence of clear glue fixing the secondary baffle to the surface of the secondary mirror. I suppose cleaning the secondary mirror is more simple if the baffle is first removed. I have held back until now but have an urge to open it up to look more closely at the condition of the mirrors,
  7. If you buy the ZWO ASI533MC version, a number of spacers come with it to make replacing a Canon DSLR very simple. The pixel size is not very different from the Canon although the sensor size is just 11mm square so a somewhat reduced FOV.
  8. Just watched a Youtube video which does a comparison although I didn’t figure if there were any conclusions......
  9. Exactly right.... I had planned to buy a Star Adventurer for a small grab & go rig, but then realised how much I would miss GoTo. And then with a RPi4 and Astroberry you can have back-friendly polar alignment and full platesolving.
  10. The RPi 400 is a keyboard ‘hiding’ the RPi4 4GB, so you’ll need to think about mounting it and preventing ingress of damp..... .....and for the purpose you propose, an RPi4 2GB in a flirc case, would do the astroberry job nicely!
  11. The luxury of being able to test with an SW wedge is unusual at the moment with supply shortages! I use such a wedge with good results.
  12. Where angels fear to....... I think you should hang on to the 200p Dobsonian until you are sure that whatever you choose to replace it with really is as good and as easy to handle! Your Dob has the significant advantage that it is very quick to settle to thermal equilibrium although it is a bit bulky and awkward. But everything is relative! As my ‘signature’ shows I presently have a number of telescopes of various types. Not listed are the ones that I have bought and subsequently sold over the last ten years beginning with a 200p Dob, then a 250p Dob and ultimately a 300p Flextube Do
  13. I use a dew strap on my refractor telescope lenses, but not on my ASI533. The refractor lens is prone to dewing up when it is pointed at the dark night sky and loses heat/cools down by radiation cooling. Moisture in the immediately adjacent air will condense when the lens is below the dew point of that air. A ‘dew shield’ may act as a physical barrier to more humid air and avoid air circulation to some extent, but ultimately when the dew point of the air near the lenses is reached dew will condense on them. Hence a dew strap heater around the lens area will help to keep the lenses above the de
  14. If I am correct your magnification is around x343 which is in any circumstances is very high! Sometimes ‘less is more’ - you may find that taking the Barlow away may give you a more satisfyingly view over all. By the way you are in the ‘imaging’ part of the forum - you might get quicker responses in the other parts of the forum.
  15. When you say that you are considering buying a ‘ccd’ camera, I presume you really mean an astro camera. This would require a USB connection to a suitable computer which could be a laptop PC or, like me, a Raspberry Pi 4 running Astroberry Server software. However the simplest but rather effective option would be to use a DSLR saving images onto an internal SD card and operating the shutter with the AZGTi ‘Snap’ cable. SynScan Pro and SynScan Link running on the iPad Pro would control it all nicely.
  16. The ASI120 cameras have a built in flange which nicely fits a 2” eyepiece tube. This photo (from the ASI camera packaging) shows an ASI120 with the supplied 150° lens in the CS mount spacer. I just removed this lens and replaced it with the RPi 6mm lens, and the camera body itself fits into the 2” eyepiece tube.
  17. Just to mention that if you want to guide with a Linux installation such as Astroberry on a Raspberry Pi 4 (KStars/Ekos/Indi), for instance, there is a bug in this latest Firmware V 3.26 which stops the DEC axis guiding properly. A workaround for the moment is to revert to Firmware V 3.20 which is still available on the Sky-watcher website. In my first successful use with the 3.20 firmware last night, with a ZWO Miniscope 120mm fl and ASI120MC for guiding, the DEC axis was still a bit uncontrolled at times, probably due to the DEC backlash, and the guiding graph reached 5 arcsecs occasionally,
  18. micro SD cards do die - I’ve lost two good branded ones in a year - and an SSD is much faster and provides loads of capacity. I run everything on the RPi4 and just link into it by WiFi to control it at start up and shut down, and occasionally to download images in the interim to my laptop to live stack in SharpCap Pro for instance. That way the WiFi link is not critical to the successful imaging session.
  19. I’m not sure if this 3A minimum issue has become a myth just because the RPi4 standard power supply is a 3A one. The USB-C connector is specified up to 3A, and if someone were to plug in a USB powered SATA HDD and other power hungry devices, it would be a good idea to have power reserves, but the RPi4 runs happily on a lot less.
  20. Absolutely - that’s precisely what I have been doing for months! I use a short 20cm USB type A to USB-C cable and it’s great. The RPi4 USB 3.0 ports are used to feed the TP-Link powered hub and a 500GB Samsung T5 SSD. The USB 2.0 ports on the RPi4 are not used. The only issues I have had relate to the RPi Linux kernel update which abruptly went from 4.19 to 5.4 a couple of months ago. Until several further kernel updates had taken place over the next weeks, this left the USB ports in disarray. The main issue arose when plugging the USB cable to the Pegasus Astro Pocket Power Box which dis
  21. Thanks for posting this brilliant bit of work! I stand in awe - I had been loosely thinking of something similar after having captured individually a number of the favourite targets in that region of the sky, but you have done a wonderful job.
  22. Hi Haydn, You’ve just reawoken a 2018 thread, so Alex may not be able to respond instantly! However I’m another AZ-EQ5 GT owner who has made a few tweaks here and there. If anything, the clutches on my mount tend to snatch, and I have an occasional problem where one jambs and I have to use a lot of grunt to shift it. I have sometimes also found I can move the scope, against the friction of the clutches, but I reckon that’s when I haven’t tightened them quite enough due to not wanting one to bind. There are some useful stripdown videos on YouTube including this one which sho
  23. There are plenty of DSOs around at this point in the year. Your EQ5 Pro Mount handset can take you on a tour of them. If you want a few more ideas after that you could visit www.telescopius.com and enter your locality and equipment details.
  24. You could use a Raspberry Pi which has WiFi, Ethernet and USB3.0 as the intermediary, and then run some or all of the astro software locally on it and just monitor via the ethernet link. Then your laptop can do other tasks such live stacking on SharpCap while the RPi sequences and captures all the images, tracks and guides, plate solves, polar aligns etc. An open source software package I can thoroughly recommend is Astroberry Server (www.astroberry.io)
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