Jump to content

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_31.thumb.jpg.b7a41d6a0fa4e315f57ea3e240acf140.jpg

Jamgood

Members
  • Content Count

    204
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

258 Excellent

About Jamgood

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Derby UK

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Dark Flat is the same exposure as a Flat but with the cap on.
  2. Your upgrade option are those you mention. Those and models above.
  3. It bugged me at first also, but after a few times doing it I passed caring. A circle is still a circle regardless of orientation. I just eyeball it. If you want to make sure you're good, rotate the RA 180° and check that Polaris is still on the line. As long as the reticle is calibrated it's not a problem.
  4. Both mounts I've had have been the same. It makes no difference to alignment though. I just rotate the RA and do what's needed, then return the scope to the home position. The reticle could be upside down and back to front, it doesn't matter. It's only a reference circle. As long as Polaris stays on that line when you rotate, all good.
  5. Glad you got that bit sorted. Don't try and rush and learn everything at once. You'll give yourself brain damage and want to quit. Just have a play with APT via EQMOD for a few times, learn how it works. Watch lots of tutorials. Then add in other things like guiding and plate solving. Once you get it, you'll be able to do it all very quickly but there's a learning curve to all this. Fools rush in.
  6. You need to set the COM Port that EQMod uses to connect to the mount. Look in Device Manager on the PC, see what COM Port is being used. Under Ports (COM & LPT) it'll say USB Serial Port and a COM number. Then open the EQASCOM toolbox. If you haven't registered EQMOD, hit Register. Then click on Driver Setup and under EQMOD Port Details, select the Port number from Device Manager.
  7. There's a 130PDS on AstroBuy&Sell. https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=170730 Selling with coma corrector, mount and other bits but maybe you can get him to split them?
  8. Once you get it, you'll understand why people recommend it. It's not really complicated. Computer control is much easier than the hsndset. You just need to know what you want to do and how to achieve it. I knew from the start, before I owned a scope, I wanted to control everything from inside in the warm.
  9. The best thing to do is set it all up in the day time and make sure everything is talking to each other. If your mount is to be controlled by computer, you don't need the ST4 cable. You can use pulse guiding from PHD2 straight to the mount. This is more reliable and one less wire to worry about.
  10. It was a bit tight but with a bit of brute force it did unscrew with no damage. I originally had mine like yours is in the pictures but found that it wasn't that stable in the finder scope shoe but my original guide holder only had one set of 3 screws for positioning. I get better balance with it in the middle of the scope rings, especially when balancing up with camera and dew shield, etc. You could easily adapt your guide rings to fit on a second dovetail. Also, the second dovetail gives you a handy handle to carry/lift acope into position. (If setting up every time) The more
  11. In APT my Dither is set to 12. In PHD2 I have it set to spiral. I'm using a Canon 60Da which is a similar censor. Another thing, with DSS. Once mine went all screwy for no reason and I couldn't fathom out why. Nothing had changed. I deleted all the temporary files and reinstalled the program and it has worked flawlessly since. I also find it can be temperamental and give mixed results if you don't put the files in order. Lights - Darks - Flats - Bias.
  12. Have you got some old Dark files you can calibrate with to see if it removes the walking pixels? I still use Darks even though I dither after every shot. I find images look better with than without them.
  13. I bought some of these. SVBONY Guide Scope Rings - I only used to rings, drilled new holes in my spare dovetail and fitted them to that. Then used these to fit the dovetail to the scope rings. Solid as a rock. I'm sure there are better and cheaper ways to do it though.
  14. I had the same mount for my first and had a 130PDS on it. It handled quite well considering but upgrading to the HEQ5PRO has been the best thing I did. I did the Rowan Belt Mod in it myself. I never guided with my EQ3PRO though. I could get good 60sec exposures with it and could probably of done much more guided. Are you guiding? What exposures are you getting? With the HEQ5PRO I guide and can take 20min shots and the mount doesn't skip a beat.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.