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About Jamgood

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    Derby UK
  1. Pleiades and the Wizard Nebula from last night. Still testing the new mount out and guiding. Everything seems to be set and running sweet. Pleiades 12 x 300 Lights ISO1600 12 x Darks 30 x Bias 30 x Flats Wizard Nebula 24 x 300 Lights ISO1600 12 x Darks 30 x Bias 30 x Flats Skywatcher 130PDS - HEQ5 Pro - Canon EOS60Da - Astronomik CLS Filter - Baader MPCCIII - Orion 50mm Guide Scope + Orion Star Shoot Auto Guider
  2. I wasn't sure what to go for out of all those when I bought one, so I got one of these. Much easier decision. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293046850694
  3. That was a great thread to read @Alan White. I really enjoyed reading about your journey from light pollution to observing again. Shame you had to lose the pier in the end but needs must, I guess.
  4. *****SALE PENDING***** I've recently upgraded to the HEQ5Pro so this little gem is now surplus to my requirements. Purchased in the middle of June 2020 and apart from the odd little mark here and there from use, it is like new condition. The marks on the weights were on it when I got it. The Polar Scope has been calibrated and the mount holds polar alignment great. Handset has only been used 4 times before I started controlling via computer. Comes with the original cigarette lighter power cable and an extra 240v > 12v Power supply. All boxed in the original packaging. I can assemble before purchase if required. Collection only from Derby due to the weight. £300 - Cash on collection preferred.
  5. How are you taking your flats? The way I do it, which is not the only way or possibly the best, is with a ipad/tablet placed over the scope with just a plain white jpg stretched to full screen. If using a DSLR, switch to AV Mode and shoot away. Nearly every time I've had a stacking issue it has been due to bad flats. Also, look at focusing. You're out of focus in that stack. Zoom in the the stars look like bubbles. Do you have a Bahtinov mask?
  6. First job, if you plan on using it, calibrate your polar scope. Then, as above, take small steps, make sure everything is working good and learn each of your tools. I am 3 months in and just starting to learn guiding. It's a fantastic hobby, when the weather allows you to indulge in it.
  7. I would have thought so, yes but I'm no expert. Interesting that there were cobwebs around though. As above, I'm no expert and it was just a suggestion but as @ollypenrice said, you would expect to see extra diffraction spikes from all stars. It is strange that the line tapers in and out across the image. Is it in the same place in every image or does it move when you dithered, etc?
  8. I'd say keep looking. My i7 3.4GHz 16Gb RAM is quite nippy and even with that, big projects take a while to stack, etc.
  9. I totally agree @kaelig, it could be made easier. Sadly though, there are too many combinations of telescopes, camera and eyepieces to make something like this that simple. As with everything to do with Astronomy and Astrophotography, a lot of it is trial and error to find what's right for your set up. I read once that it is 99% frustration and 1% fun. That's not far off accurate for me but when everything works, it's amazing! In the few short months I've been doing it I've tackled polar alignment and polar scope calibration, telescope collimation, eqmod and Stellarium connectivity, APT software, plate solving, PHD2 guiding. It's a never ending lesson in new toys.
  10. I'm only a beginner myself @kaelig. I've only been doing this since July and everything is new to me. I'm learning as I go. With the Baader, I still haven't got mine perfect and I adjust it slightly each time. The flange of the MPCC is currently 13mm away from the face of the Canon. (Canon's sensor is 44mm back.) That gives me 57mm which is close. I only have a cheap T Ring between Camera and MPCC. The problem I'm finding, which others have/do too, is that there is always some tilt between the focuser/camera giving what looks like Coma in one corner usually. I have another adapter to try and see if it helps with that.
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