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Imaging with the 130pds


Russe
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some cracking results... makes the 130 look very attractive, a much cheaper all rounder compared to the 80ed too. Russe, is this moon not really a sw127 mak? a great sharp shot all the same!

Argh - my mistake!!!! Please ignore me!!!

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Is there much difference between the 130 and 150 when imaging?

No :smiley:

The 130p DS already has more than enough aperture and resolution for the type of wide field imaging people are using it for and the smaller OTA is a little stiffer and less of a target for the wind. However, it is easier to upgrade the focuser on the 150p DS because it has a larger tube diameter.

Are people here happy using the original focuser on the 130p DS? I have been meaning to ask Ron at Moonlite to machine some curved plates to match the smaller 130p DS OTA. 

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The only challenge I find with the 130PDS is with a finder guider, DSLR and dew shield on it really needs a counterweight at the back as it is so short you can't shift it in the tube rings enough to compensate and balance, Thats the next project though  :grin: and should be a simple fix

Cheers

Ross

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.

Are people here happy using the original focuser on the 130p DS? I have been meaning to ask Ron at Moonlite to machine some curved plates to match the smaller 130p DS OTA. 

In my situation, getting the Moonlite depends on how far the compression ring sits inside the focuser.

Reason being, the safety undercut on the MPCC MkIII (and MkII) begins 3mm from the back of the collar - all the compression rings I have (and thumbscrews) measure as 2mm, so the compression ring is touching both the 2" barrel and safety undercut when tightened, which is why it never sat square on a consistent basis. Thats the reason why I eventually had to build a threaded solution.

Not such a problem with the SWCC, as its undercut begins 2mm behind the collar.

Im thinking of getting a drill press for my birthday, so I will be able to better engineer a bespoke adapter for the standard DS focuser - and perhaps doubling as a tilt adaptor. Ive never had to tap a hole before, but its going to be fun trying! (planning on using 4x M2 allen bolts to hold it all together)

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In my situation, getting the Moonlite depends on how far the compression ring sits inside the focuser.

I am hoping people are happy with the supplied focuser. The attraction of the 130pDs is that it provides an affordable route to high quality astrophotography so upgrading the focuser to one costing as much as the telescope... It just doesn't feel right. If the demand is there then so-be-it but I hope it isn't. 

Steve :smiley:

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I am hoping people are happy with the supplied focuser. The attraction of the 130pDs is that it provides an affordable route to high quality astrophotography so upgrading the focuser to one costing as much as the telescope... It just doesn't feel right. If the demand is there then so-be-it but I hope it isn't. 

Steve :smiley:

i am totally in love with my focuser! its a dream to use, ive just come from the 130-p which i have had for nearly 2 years, and i totally love the 130-pds focuser :D

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In my situation, getting the Moonlite depends on how far the compression ring sits inside the focuser.

 

Reason being, the safety undercut on the MPCC MkIII (and MkII) begins 3mm from the back of the collar - all the compression rings I have (and thumbscrews) measure as 2mm, so the compression ring is touching both the 2" barrel and safety undercut when tightened, which is why it never sat square on a consistent basis. Thats the reason why I eventually had to build a threaded solution.

 

Not such a problem with the SWCC, as its undercut begins 2mm behind the collar.

 

Im thinking of getting a drill press for my birthday, so I will be able to better engineer a bespoke adapter for the standard DS focuser - and perhaps doubling as a tilt adaptor. Ive never had to tap a hole before, but its going to be fun trying! (planning on using 4x M2 allen bolts to hold it all together)

Seems like the exact same problem I'm having with the MPCC III and GSO 150mm F4 scope. It took me an age to figure out what was going on- but last session I noticed on tightening the thumbscrew the deflection of the coma corrector. Is there a thread detailing your solution?

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+1 for the focuser on the 130, but i have only used rack n pinion or single speed crayfords before. So to me the dual speed crayford on the 130 is fantastic. And could'nt think of any reason to change it.

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My only complaint regarding the 130PDS is that the focuser extends a long way into the tube.  I only need about 1cm of movement for my DSLR, and I use an extension tube for my eyepiece (to keep it parfocal with the camera) so I think I can afford to lose 2 or 3 cm from the inner end of the focuser tube.  I might have a go at this next time I'm in a DIY frame of mind, and I might as well flock the scope at the same time.

This is only a minor gripe, the 130PDS is still an excellent scope.

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Seems like the exact same problem I'm having with the MPCC III and GSO 150mm F4 scope. It took me an age to figure out what was going on- but last session I noticed on tightening the thumbscrew the deflection of the coma corrector. Is there a thread detailing your solution?

I havent launched a thread on this one yet becuase its still experimental. Last night I managed to file away the last bits of the collar on the SW corrector, so that one can be mounted internally using the adaptor ive put together. Should be clear tonight so I'll give it another test run.

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The 130 is now out and collecting photons, the initial few subs look ok. Im just doing a quick HH mosaic at just 6 subs per pane, but the sky quality is total pants.

Edit: Wow... Ive just gone to align two different panes and the stars overlapped perfectly - didnt have to click snap to, or bend the field in any way. Now thats interesting!

Edited by Uranium235
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Uranium235, how do you manage to get such spectacular results? What do you use? What's your setup and process of taking images and post-processing? This thread may not be the place for such discussions, but I'm sure I'm not the only one curious.

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Uranium235, how do you manage to get such spectacular results? What do you use? What's your setup and process of taking images and post-processing? This thread may not be the place for such discussions, but I'm sure I'm not the only one curious.

All the gear I use is in my sig, but basically its the 130pds (modified), Atik 383L+ (full frame CCD) and the NEQ6 (guided). Post processing is a mixture of DSS (calibration), Maxim (stacking and filtering), then Photoshop (for developing the image). Could go into more detail, but gotta get to work now! :)

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Are people here happy using the original focuser on the 130p DS? I have been meaning to ask Ron at Moonlite to machine some curved plates to match the smaller 130p DS OTA. 

I think the stock focuser is very good, I had a 50mm extension tube on it the other day coupled with a CCD Camera to help the camera to get in focus. Neither a vibration or a sag under the weight...

Al.

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Flippin' 'eck! 

Some of these are awesome - I think I need to bookmark this thread (and visit SGL more often  :wink: ) as inspiration, particularly when tired, if clear.

It is a rather good piece of kit - Mine's on an EQ5 with the simple dual axis drive - rather impressed since I upgraded!

some thumbs from my dslr, unprocessed - 

Earthshine as the moon set behind the neighbour's roof:

post-16498-0-84190500-1395507692_thumb.j (heavy dslr, no sag, awesome focuser!)

Great Orion Nebula

post-16498-0-05093500-1395507917_thumb.j (30s ISO200)

Double Cluster

post-16498-0-89641600-1395508183_thumb.j (30s ISO200)

The deep sky ones were taken in a sesh about a month after I got it.

I also webcam, here's jupiter through two barlows (eff. x3.2) and stacked:

post-16498-0-34936800-1395508744_thumb.p

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Wow, these images are amazing!

Would you guys mind a few questions?

I currently have the 130p and connect my Canon 1100 via a standard t ring to the built in t thread that is part of the 1.25 lens adapter.The primary mirror has been pushed waaay up the tube and I can get focus with about 10mm of the focus tube still in the light path.

Is the camera connection still the same on the PDS or can I use my t to 2 inch nosepiece in the focuser?

When I try to use the 2 inch nosepiece with the focuser adapter i hit the same problem because the adapter is so thick.

Thanks.

Chris

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I use the T2 to 2" adaptor, as I can't get an M48 adaptor for a Pentax T-ring.

bit of a pain if I want to use my 1.25" e/p's, as I have to unscrew that adaptor in order to use the T2 (m42) adaptor!

but I get plenty of back focus, due to the shortened tube.

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