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Imaging with the 130pds


Russe

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With this particular telescope?

Well, the main challenge is the focuser - and getting your coma corrector to sit squarely in the drawtube. Simplest solution to that is to drill and tap a third hole for another thumbscrew - theyre M4 threaded, so thats a tap size you can pick up from B&Q (they do an M4, M5 and M6 kit for a tenner). Next you might have to tweak the tension of the focuser (especially if you have a heavy camera), as long as you can get it to focus against the action of gravity (ie: with the camera pointing straight up) then thats good enough. The 2" EP holder just screws off the drawtube, so its easy enough to remove and work on.

If, after youve done the above (and collimated it to death) and youre still getting a dodgy corner/side - then you have to tackle the job of squaring the focuser. But I would leave that as a last resort becuase thats where things get really fiddly.

Edit: Dont use a laser for collimation either, a sight tube/cheshire EP is all you need - the main thing is that you need to eliminate rotation of the secondary mirror.

Thanks Uranium. Sorry for the delayed response, i had not been on in quite a few days (BTW living by the Aberdeenshire coast does not really make for great viewing in the summer months, Cloud or fog take your pick).

Thanks for the info however, i will certainly have a look at that.

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  • 1 month later...

Well, it stems from a paper written by SBIG a while ago about stray light in optical systems. So to solve the problem raised I initially tried sky flats, which worked to a degree, but the level of illumination is constantly falling.

So, what if I were try to recreate the same conditions indoors by using a really large monitor? Well, thats what I did and it seems to have worked! The spectra from the monitor wont be the same as a twilight sky, but the main problem was to solve the issue of removing stray light from the interior of the telescope. Eg: Light that completely bypasses the primary/scondary and just goes straight up the drawtube.

On further investigation, it seems these types of flats are called "dome flats" - but being as I dont have an obsy, the idea never twigged. I will be doing a proper write up sometime this evening. The nub of it being, dont have your EL panel flush against the telescope if using a reflector.

Edit: Just need to add that this is affects LRGB only, narrowband has always been unaffected (bar OIII, which leads me to think the problem was in the Blue/UV area)

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Well, it stems from a paper written by SBIG a while ago about stray light in optical systems. So to solve the problem raised I initially tried sky flats, which worked to a degree, but the level of illumination is constantly falling.

So, what if I were try to recreate the same conditions indoors by using a really large monitor? Well, thats what I did and it seems to have worked! The spectra from the monitor wont be the same as a twilight sky, but the main problem was to solve the issue of removing stray light from the interior of the telescope. Eg: Light that completely bypasses the primary/scondary and just goes straight up the drawtube.

On further investigation, it seems these types of flats are called "dome flats" - but being as I dont have an obsy, the idea never twigged. I will be doing a proper write up sometime this evening. The nub of it being, dont have your EL panel flush against the telescope if using a reflector.

funny you bring up flats, i got my flat screen through the post today

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Huion-Inches-Adjustable-Brightness-Tracing/dp/B00J3NRAV2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403331997&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=LED+Adjustable+Light+Tracing+Pad+-+A3+Light+Box

never done flats before, so will be a 1st when i start imaging again in a month or so, interested to see your full write up...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Its now dark again!

Had the ol' 130PDS out last night. Dreadful alignment (I feel so dirty!), so only short exposures. Prime goal was to grab M57, but I also got M31/2, the Coathanger, and M13.

This is M13 from that sesh - equipment as per my tagline, used battery pack with the motor drives.

5x data exposures, and two dark frames - ISO 400 @ 15s each.

post-16498-0-42634000-1407100420_thumb.p

Problem is that I use IRIS - this is completely faffy - it stacks beautifully, but no matter what I try it loses the colour  - not a friendly piece of software!

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Well either the weather or life has got in the way lately this was due to be my first attempt at a mosaic but since in 2 weeks I've managed a single pane I'm not holding out much hope of completing it this year ;-)

get.jpg

Cheers

Ross

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Just a few of the goodies ive had from the 130pds over the past few months:

11695810995_10115937dc_b.jpg

11934828685_543ed2628b_b.jpg

12549102443_17822313b5_b.jpg

12852852235_b521e53e60_b.jpg

12876522975_a5dea5030f_b.jpg

12936956565_1e1bbd6b20_b.jpg

SUPERB, really like those images, hoping to grab M45 with my 150p ds and 1000d, i know its not a 130 but its a compromise scope for me 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Love it! I'm slowly but surely going to get this scope as part of my adventures I to astrophotography. I've got a mak 127 at the moment but should be a great companion scope for visual. Already picked up a canon 450 and I'll be looking at getting a used HEQ5 once funds dictate. Keep them coming as its making me work even harder to get into this! Excellent stuff :)

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Hi All

Well after following this thread I decided to get a 130 PDS as my first serious imaging scope !

I already have a ST80 which I cut my teeth on which I intend to use as a guide scope for the 130 PDS. To this end I also bought a ZWO ASI120MC to use as a guide camera for DSO work and also to experiment with some lunar and planetary stuff.  

Does anyone have any experience of using the ST80 and 130 PDS combo ?  eg is it best to use guide scope rings or can I get away with using the supplied ST80 rings ?  Any help appreciated.

Anyhow I took a single shot of the moon with the ZWO and 130 PDS recently 

post-36401-0-07447700-1410641831_thumb.j

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My last attempts:

M27 Dumbbell Nebula

Full resolution: http://www.astrobin.com/full/105739/0/

M27 Full Res 01

Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 PRO
Camera: Canon 70D
Lens: Sky-Watcher 130PDS...
Guiding: Orion StarShoot AutoGuider
ISO: 250
Light: 8X600s, Dark: 3X600s, Bias 5

M31 Andromeda Galaxy

Full resolution: http://www.astrobin.com/full/119096/B/

М31 Final I small

Mount: NEQ6PRO
Lens: SW130PDS
Camera: Canon 70D
Guiding: Orion StarShoot AutoGuider...
ISO800
Light: 10X600s, 11X300s, 5X120s, 10X30s.
Dark: 3X600s, 3X300s, 3X120s, 3X30s.
Flat: 5, and Bias: 3

M33 Triangulum Galaxy

M33 NEW IV Small

Mount: NEQ6PRO
Lens: SW130PDS
Camera: Canon 70D
Guiding: Orion StarShoot AutoGuider...
Light: 10X600s, 5X300s.
Dark: 3X600s, 3X300s.
Flat: 5, and Bias: 3
M45 Pleiades

M45 III Rd small

Mount: NEQ6PRO
Lens: SW130PDS
Camera: Canon 70D
Guiding: Orion StarShoot AutoGuider...
Light: 6X300s.
Dark: 3X300s.
Flat: 3, and Bias: 3

IC 5146 Cocoon Nebula

Cacoon Nebula Fainal small

Mount: NEQ6PRO
Lens: SW130PDS
Camera: Canon 70D
Guiding: Orion StarShoot AutoGuider...
ISO800
Light: 10X600s.
Dark: 3X600s.
Flat: 3, and Bias: 3

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