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Everything posted by Russe

  1. Guys, how do you process your stars? Mine seem to come out fuzzy??... Tried star masks but somehow it's not quite right and sharp.
  2. It's never ideal, eh?! I think, I want myself an obsy/shed where I'm permanently set up. Roll open roof (by push of a button) and off you go...
  3. Had visitors over and couldn't go. Funny this hobby - makes me wanna hate friends and family that keep me from going into the garden...
  4. Hi guys, I've always struggled with keeping my stars nice and neat. But that wasn't a major issue with a large DSLR sensor before. With the Atik314L+ now I find myself struggling to my dismay. I've separated the nebula in Ha from the stars in Strata and am now left with a stars only layer that I want to stretch. Stretching it however blows the stars up and gives me strange fuzzy unround "halos" around my stars. I've tried reveal all layer masks to prevent the cores from burning out, but it's the fuzzy bright halos I can't control. And as soon as I unsharp mask this layer I get weird black dots
  5. I use AstroTortilla too, but slight differences b/o movement or camera rotation already make a difference. In particular if you're stacking like 100 images...
  6. After a long abscence I've finally managed to start with NB imaging... Moon was up - but with Ha you get quite a good result as opposed to my previous Canon attempts... lol Anyway, judge kindly, I somehow need to figure out how to prevent stars from bloating. As well - On the stars right hand side I can see an indentation which I think stems from the focuser tube jutting forward into the scope tube. Anyway - now I'm waiting for clear skies to add OIII and SII. Oh, and I've realised that by imaging several nights and adding more images you de facto are making your final image smaller, because y
  7. For the initial question - I use a finderguider with a QHY5 on my 130 PDS which works just fine. I've imaged upto 1200s. Recently though, the finderscope shoe had come lose and caused all sorts of weird guiding. Weight wise the finderscope is better. But it depends on your mount.
  8. I know that Uranium has actually sawn of the ridge of the skywatcher coma corrector in order to put the whole camera setup further inside the focuser and thus reduce the length the focuser sticks into the actual tube. Would there be another coma corrector fitting the 130 pds where you wouldn't need to do that? Anyone has one?
  9. Ooh, just recently had an issure with AT - I've tried using 2x2 binning and it really didn't work - so I went back to 1x1 binning and it found me again. What a drag sometimes...
  10. I'd say, forget about narrow band on DSLR's. Rather start saving for a dedicated CCD...
  11. In comparison - if I don't choose the blend option in startrails, it really looks like morse code ... lol...
  12. oh - noise reduction in the qhy5? I have to look for that - I really have never used that old second hand camera for imaging I must say - only for PHP - and there it does what it should.
  13. my image wasn't magnified - it's really just the Qhy5 on a 9x50 finderscope... (fl = 180mm - probably less)
  14. Hi guys, this was just for fun - my guiding setup gave up on me, so I had the finderguider disassembled - exchanged and tightened screws etc. While looking out the window I saw a few sparkling stars and remembered that I always wanted to see how to do startrails. So I opened the window, leaned the finder guider out of it and hooked my guidecam up to the comp and shot 100x 30s exposures. what I'm a bit bewildered about is, that I have gaps inbetween the trails even though I had left no pauses between the exposures. I suppose it's the time it takes to load the FITS files to the comp and the quit
  15. About the laser, the problem with the shoe fitting is, I'm using it atm for the finder guider. Any other way to attach it?
  16. Cool idea! Will try that - I thought as well, since I set up new every time, there's always a new starting point I'm coming from. Despite the fact that I start from a 90 degree home position (always am using a water level on the side of the mount). Mhm - that's making me think now - I always start from a new home position actually, because after polar alignment I always use the water level on the side of the mount until that's pointing straight. That's probably not very helpful I wonder.
  17. Hi guys, Could you help me from spending on the wrong thingy? I think I need a laser starpointer for my imaging setup. Because, despite accurate polar alignment, I'm always off my first star slew - so much so, that i can't even see it straight away in my 9x50 finder scope. Now normally I would have cameras attached to scope and finder, but I can't find the first star and have thus begun my imaging trek with eyepiece and finder scope... I'm not sure what the problem is - once I sync my stars with Stellarium and get my PHD running I can image for 10min and have no problems. Just the first slew i
  18. Just had my baby out after almost a year with the new camera - and suddenly it started raining. So I hurriedly ran everything inside. Now, 30min later it's clear skies... I'm going to sleep...
  19. You can connect to EQMOD for polar alignment. There's a youtube video tutorial out there. Basic idea is - center the polar star in center cross of your polar scope - then adjust only the altitude screw until it meets the circle (either at 12 or 6 o'clock) - then rotate your scope by slewing East or West until the little circle has Polaris in it's center - then open the polar alignment tool within EQMOD - choose the starting "clock position" as 12 or 6 depending on where you placed the circle - then click the little yellow star in the alignment tool and EQMOD will place the circle on the right
  20. I've finally gone for this: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/baader-2-to-125-reducer-adapter.html adapter - which leaves just about 1cm of play for focus. mhm... the focuser tube is now very far inside... not to my liking. I'm seriously considering sawing the ring around the SW coma corrector off on the weekend.
  21. With this video I finally found out that I spent 25£ on a useless laser... it's completely out of line AND can't be colimated (lol)... I never understood, why I get things spot on with my cheshire, but my laser was always out a mile. If you buy a laser - test it as mentioned above by rotating it in your focuser and see if the laser spot remains in one place or describes a circle. If it does - it'll need colimating itself. I found my new laser very helpful for adjusting the primary mirror, but I double checked with the cheshire to be sure.
  22. FLO btw recommended this one: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/adaptors/baader-2-to-125-reducer-adapter.html
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