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sidelight

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Everything posted by sidelight

  1. No, the two programs are for different stages in the making of an image SGP does acquisition of the data. PixInsight processes the data once you have it. in PixInsight under scripts the render/annotated image is the tool to use.
  2. SGP does not do image annotation, the plate solve finds the center of the image mainly so that the program can work out where the scope is pointed and where it should be pointed. It can then do clever stuff like moving the scope until it points where it should be. If you have installed the blind solver based on the local astrometry.net stuff then you can possibly use the program solve-field and get plots but this is not for the faint hearted, its command line only and is wrapped up behind Cygwin, http://astrometry.net/doc/readme.html#output-files gives details. Failing that Pixinsight does offer this functionality. Or you could use http://astrometry.net/ to upload your images or http://astrobin.com, although I don't know about downloading from either of those.
  3. Short answer and my understanding, light in this hobby is at a premium, if you have a sensor with colour in it only half the sensor picks up green and a quarter each to red and blue. With monochrome and colour filters 100% of the sensor picks up each colour so is more sensitive. Also if you think about it a 20M red image where neither green or blue is triggered is full of holes with only a quarter of the sensor detecting anything, debayered that makes it a 5M image.
  4. I ended up adding a second shoe directly to the scope. As one of mine has a finder guider in this introduced too much movement. Cheers Ross
  5. Hi Kev, The 130PDS is capable of some stunning images which belie its cost, however, it will benefit from some "tinkering", and some things will need to be added to your setup. Guiding - pretty much a requirement for long exposures. I have modified a finder scope taken off the eypiece and replaced it with a camera, the one that comes with the 130 is possibly too small I have a 200 P as well and that finder seems to suit (9x50), it has the same connector so that made things easier. with a 650mm focal length flexure etc are not too troublesome Collimation - Go read Astrobabies guide http://www.astro-baby.com/collimation/astro babys collimation guide.htm, then read it again - make sure you understand before you go near the scope, and when you do go slow. It can be an easy path to get lost on and until you have it down pat can be less than intuitive. Once its done, it takes minutes at the start of a session. One small hack is to put a steel washer between the secondary support and the spider. Coma corrector - as said this is required to get a flat image. Polar alignment - whilst you don't have to be perfect for a couple of minutes exposure as your times go up so does the need for accuracy - might as well learn to get it right I found I needed to fit an "end cap" to the back of mine to stop stray light entering around the primary, some people just put a shower cap around the back of the scope. I have a piece of model board cut out and held on with some velcro. Some counter weights (exercise ankle weights seem to work well), the scope is short so when you start hanging cameras etc off the front it becomes top heavy quickly. Light pollution filter? The scope is capable of lots out of the box, but with a bit of attention is even better, the most expensive bits are probably the guide camera, the coma corrector and the light pollution filter - but you would need 2 of these whatever scope you were using. Most of the other bits are cheap fairly, but really its just an investment of some time, and lots of learning. Cheers Ross
  6. I found 22500 ADU about right for my 383 so that's what I aim for. Cheers Ross Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  7. The main one for me is simply time. Decent polar alignment for imaging takes 5 minutes, I used to lose the first chunk of every session drift aligning, to try to get rid of field rotation. Now I spend the bulk of that time taking subs Cheers Ross Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  8. I finally got out last night, polar alignment took less than 10 minutes (this is the second time I've used the Polemaster). The attached is an uncropped 15 minute sub of M42 through my 130PDS. I'm happy, I usually spend much more doing a drift align to get close to this. Cheers Ross
  9. Murk here, hoping it will clear later. Got as far as finishing polar alignment before the skies opened and I had to throw a cover over everything (probably putting everything out again). First time the weather and commitments have aligned since September so frustrated doesn't come close.
  10. Its under the menu item View, then Explorer Windows and click on the Format Explorer item Cheers Ross
  11. Hi and welcome from Weston Super Mare Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  12. This is exactly what I was searching for. I use SGP so all I care about is decent polar alignment with a minimum of fuss. SGP deals with the rest. Drift align takes a large chunk of time with a temporary setup, and being in the UK that time is a premium. Cheers Ross Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  13. I wish I had had a clear night to try it tell you. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  14. Its pretty straight forward and sort of wizard driven. Fitting takes minutes, just clamp the adapter on the mount then add the camera when you want to align. start the software and adjust the exposure/gain to get a good view of stars (there are only 5 buttons for each so its not an onerous job).adjust the mount so that Polaris is off center (bear in mind the next step when you place it).double click Polaris, rotate the mount 90 degrees and double click on Polaris again.Put Polaris back to the original position.Put Polaris in the center of the circle on the screen.Spin the red dot template to match the position of the stars on the screen.click "Start Monitor".Adjust Dec/RA to put the two small circles on top of each other (there is a magnified section of the mouse position at the top left of the screen).Job done.Please bear in mind those steps are from memory so might not be exactly in the correct order, and you do feel like the software is fighting you somewhat so the above is interspersed with clicking "Success" or "Next" or something, and the software redrawing itself on the screen several times a second will leave you feeling like you are setting up in the middle of a 70's disco. But I couldn't fault the result for a quick alignment, OK if you have a permanent setup then drift align is probably going to be fine, but for those who don't then its the quickest alignment I've done with enough accuracy for longish subs without a drift align every time. Cheers Ross
  15. I got mine a couple of days ago, apart from a broken screw (why put a plastic screw in a piece of kit that will cost a few hundred pounds?) which was quickly replaced. The software user interface is very poor and flickers horribly with poor instructions, the documentation non existent and the supplied USB lead a tad short for my liking. But once it is sussed out.... it works! Between the clouds the alignment seems fantastic and took minutes once I had worked out how things worked. Looks like this is a good addition to my tear down every time rig Align time, about 5 minutes once I'd worked out how the thing worked. Cheers Ross
  16. IF you can see some of the clips but not all then your secondary is out, you should be ale to see, or not all the clips equally (and not seeing equally is going to be difficult to say the least ). I found I have to use a cap as the extra length the cheshire and adapter introduced reduced the amount of the primary I could see reflected in the secondary so I couldn't see the clips.
  17. HI, if you move the mount between sessions then you will need to do a new polar alignment each time. How vigorous that alignment is depends on what you are using the scope for, for visual a one or two star alignment will likely be enough, for taking pictures of Deep sky stuff and the alignment needs to be more accurate, Even putting it back in the same spot is likely to introduce some changes that would make the previous alignment inaccurate. You need to be able to see Polaris (or other stars) so this is a job for the dark. Things like aligning your polar scope can be done in the daylight however by using a landmark. I usually set up during the last of the light as its much easier to do that in the light then go relax for an hour or so whilst scopes cool down before going back out to polar align. Cheers Ross
  18. I use a cheap toolbox with my power supplies inside. I fixed a 12V sockets inside the lid compartments and cut out nicks to the cables would not be pinched when everything is closed. This is plugged into an RCD where the lead from this plugs in inside the house and there are no mains sockets outside the box.
  19. Hi and welcome from Weston Super Mare Cheers Ross Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  20. A lot depends on your potential targets, I enjoy going after nebula and can tell you my 200P has not been on the mount for over a year. My 130PDS get used as its lower focal length is better suited to these (and is less affected by the slightest breeze). Whatever you go for reflector/refractor do your homework and allow in your budget for field flatteners/coma correctors etc. Cheers Ross
  21. Are you trying to use PHD2 or something to drift align? If not then trial and error will point you at the right bolt to adjust depending on the v produced. If the wrong bolt is used then the drift will get worse. If you are using PHD2 or similar then put a notes in the drift tool (or use notepad or something) e.g.north = up. Cheers Ross
  22. several people including myself use ankle weights attached to the OTA to counter balance the camera etc. Cheers Ross
  23. I'm in the same boat here, hoping it looks better changes before I finish work, with the weather and commitments not playing nicely for a few months now, I will be taking the chance if it shows any sign of improvement.
  24. I had the same with my laptop screen. I ended up putting a cover over the bottom of the scope. Initially I just used kitchen foil and an elastic band.
  25. Its a fastish scope and will benefit from being right. In the end, after trying several times, I ended up stripping mine right down squaring the focuser, resetting the spider etc. Now its right.... If its all out, it may be as well to at least start nearer the beginning and check your secondary is central in the spider. As well as astro babys fantastic guide http://www.astro-baby.com/collimation/astro%20babys%20collimation%20guide.htm I recommend watching these videos which take you end to end - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zd-fl9SEYHw Collimation is not as bad as you fear, you just need to get each stage correct and it all falls into place. If you rush a stage and assume its "good enough" you will end up going round in circles, as I did, trying to correct an error should have been corrected before. Allow yourself plenty of time the first time, and know its going to be frustrating. Once done it takes a couple of minutes when you set up just to tweak things back to where they should be. Cheers Ross
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