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Everything posted by sidelight
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I found 22500 ADU about right for my 383 so that's what I aim for. Cheers Ross Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
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several people including myself use ankle weights attached to the OTA to counter balance the camera etc. Cheers Ross
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Its a fastish scope and will benefit from being right. In the end, after trying several times, I ended up stripping mine right down squaring the focuser, resetting the spider etc. Now its right.... If its all out, it may be as well to at least start nearer the beginning and check your secondary is central in the spider. As well as astro babys fantastic guide http://www.astro-baby.com/collimation/astro%20babys%20collimation%20guide.htm I recommend watching these videos which take you end to end - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zd-fl9SEYHw Collimation is not as bad as you fear, you just need to get each stage correct and it all falls into place. If you rush a stage and assume its "good enough" you will end up going round in circles, as I did, trying to correct an error should have been corrected before. Allow yourself plenty of time the first time, and know its going to be frustrating. Once done it takes a couple of minutes when you set up just to tweak things back to where they should be. Cheers Ross
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As far as I am aware the secondary should be centred and concentric in the cap. The offset comes in later when you align the primary with the secondary. Cheers Ross
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I had a similar problem, never needed to cut my tube, turned out for me when I modded my DSLR my light pollution filter was not cutting IR and UV very well - I had removed the Baader internal one I had fitted as I had problems getting it seated perfectly and this produced star halos. Adding a filter for those cleared things up. Once the filter was in place and the focus nailed it went away never to be seen since (touch wood), I learnt some lessons there during a prolonged period of bad weather to change things one at a time as I had tinkered with just about everything between them showing up and finally getting to the bottom of things. Cheers Ross
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The Wizard Nebula, the imaging session was delayed when a required cable repair was spotted, so only 6 HA exposures of 600 seconds. Cheers Ross
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I know Uranium235 has already posted one, but in the time I've had the CCD its about the only target I have managed and am happy with (with thanks because I never even knew the Propeller Nebula was there). Cheers Ross
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I use a couple of jubilee clips joined together and strung around the scope and the ankle weights seems to work a treat.
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Well its been a long time since I had a chance to get out and the weather has obliged but I did get one night over the Christmas break and Cheers Ross
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Dew tape position for a reflector?
sidelight replied to Notty's topic in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
I can only tell you my experience, with a large band around the top of my scope and a dew shield fitted I've never had a problem with my secondary. I did buy a mirror heater but never fitted it as I would have had to deal with the wires on the spider and I never needed it. I can only suggest to try it and see. Cheers Ross -
Dew tape position for a reflector?
sidelight replied to Notty's topic in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
Hi, I place mine between right at the front of the scope over the dew shied (or under it when in was a foam one) and have never had a problem with the secondary dewing up. Cheers Ross -
Well either the weather or life has got in the way lately this was due to be my first attempt at a mosaic but since in 2 weeks I've managed a single pane I'm not holding out much hope of completing it this year ;-) Cheers Ross
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Been ages since I was able to get the scope out on one of the rare clear nights we've had. M5 40 * 200 seconds @ 400 ISO ... Cheers Ross
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It would be good if it did, but the scope ring is already nearly against the focuser. I could move the rings to the other side but that's a little too close to the edge for me to be happy when balancing the scope. It would also potentially interfer with dew shields and things. Cheers Ross Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
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Unfortunately there is a locking grub screw on the fine control side that there is no hole for on the other, and it is needed to clamp the gearbox in place. So it can't be turned around without drilling and taping a new hole, I don't have the equipment for that
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You know I hadn't thought of doing that I had got as far as looking to see if the mechanism could be turned upside down (it can't) and never considered spinning the shaft. Thank's Lenny I guess I will be getting the screwdrivers out later this evening and solving that issue. Cheers Ross
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Thats a shame, it could have been a solution. The balancing issue for me is not helped as I use the finder scope as a guider, so with DSLR etc the scope is front heavy. There just isn't enough scope to hang out the back of the tube rings to get it in balance for me. I need to finish off the counterweights I was fiddling with to compensate.
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I was looking at these replacement focuser 2" adapters, with a compression ring but at 39€ was wondering if anyone else had tried, and found them any good? http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p4018_2--adapter-with-brass-compression-ring-for-Skywatcher-Newtonians.html The only other thing I find with the scope is that with cameras etc on it is a pig to balance, often the focuser knobs end up right against the tube rings, the longer side (ie the one with the fine focus knob) is the inner adjusters, it would have been good to have them the other side. Cheers Ross
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It does depend on what you want to image. Both these scopes are around f5, the 130 is 650 mm fl, the 150, 750 mm fl I believe. The difference is not huge and a lot of the DSO objects shot are still bigger than a single mosaic frame on the 130Pds. To be honest either is supposed to be a good scope but the 130 is slightly easier to handle for the mount. Cheers Ross Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
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I'n still working on a permanent fix, at the moment I have a couple of jubilee clips joined together to go around the scope with ankle weights hanging from them. Not pretty and needs better distribution really. I'm thinking of using a strip of roofing lead and fixing that around the base of the scope so I can wrap that around evenly. Cheers Ross
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The only challenge I find with the 130PDS is with a finder guider, DSLR and dew shield on it really needs a counterweight at the back as it is so short you can't shift it in the tube rings enough to compensate and balance, Thats the next project though and should be a simple fix Cheers Ross
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Here is a moon using a 130PDS and a 450D Cheers Ross
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Same here
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