Dr_Ju_ju

Yes, you will be way out of focus, as the focus point for an eyepiece and that for a camera are very different.... As an interim step, forget SGPro, and instead use another application to connect to the camera e.g. Sharpcap & then use that to 'rough' focus the camera.

Cedric's problem is that if the adapter device shows up as a Prolific, then its a good chance that its a cheap knock off, which are notoriously unreliable, better to get either an FTDI or CH340 chipset devices.... I'm not sure which chipset SW have used for the USB connection, but its probably an FTDI chipset, which are very reliable & solid.

Most people never use the handset \ pc direct, but use an adapter from the computer USB to serial port, by-passing the handset, and driven by an appropriate driver & EQMod, so all SW have done(on these new mounts), is killed the market for the add on adapter....

just zap them in the microwave oven, for 2\3 5min bursts .... Note that what you've identified above is for a secondary desiccant bolt-on device & not the default tabs, which are inside the camera (around the imaging chip). So to dry these out, you have to remove the front plate of the camera.... Also note the 2 types of desiccant tablet are DIFFERENT sizes, & putting the larger (additional side bolt on) into the main body WILL result in a broken tablet & 'crumbs' distributed inside the main body & can end up on the sensor....

That would work, just swapping ports around, can sometimes 'kick' devices into life. Also if you have different cables, swap them around as well, as I've known that to also kick something into life...

In a terminal window, issue the command lsusb, this will return all the USB devices that the Pi can see.

You also need to disable all sleep\hibernate modes, especially those set in device manager.

If they are using SGPro, then the subs can be marked bad within the application, especially when viewed in the preview.

I'm confused on what you are trying to achieve ?? why would you want to stop a move if you've issued a command to move the mount to a specific location\target ? fine keyboard control can be done using the EQMod window that would have opened when you connected to the mount, but as Stellarium usually open full screen, it probably hidden behind, so you need to run Stellarium in windowed mode.

When you configured the 'Ascom Settings' under "Choose Ascom Telescope" have you selected the appropriate device in the child window ?

What is actually wrong with the camera ?? we (collectively) may be able to offer another solution ....

Then I'd use an International carrier e.g. UPS\DHL etc. and make sure it's well insured, and currently it going to take a long time....

Did you buy it from China?, if not, then you should be going through the local dealer, especially if its still in warranty ?

Usually, yes, as the mounting bars are the same.

As long as you\they install the relevant Ascom\EqMod system & drivers, and the local control computer is able to 'see' the mount, then any software e.g. Sequence Generator Pro, Sharpcap, APT etc. will be able the drive\control the mount. It then a simple matter to remotely drive that local control computer. This system could be Windows based, but could also be Linux|INDI\Kstars type system ......

That's why I said you need to take care..... If I remember correctly, it works on a seesaw rocking principle, one way the switch links the centre pole to one of the outside poles, the other way links the centre pole to the opposite outside pole, so you should be able to work it out.

Where you see the holes in the body side, you insert a small screwdriver type object and the front rocking part, will 'pop' out, but take care you don't lose the actuator spring..... As for the replacement resistor value, it will depend on the supply voltage, required light output etc. I used 4K7 resistors, but then I also have loads of them....

Depends on how confident\able you are, as I've also used those switches, but disassembled them & replaced the internal dropper resistor, to limit the light emitted. A second option would be to use the same style of switch, but then mount an external, (sub)miniature led, suitably set for the brightness you require.

The starting point of the routine is far off from focus, therefore when the routine starts, it moves the focuser even further away, and so is unable to ever achieve focus. I find the best way is to use a live view & manually adjust for best focus, then the SGPro routine will work ok.

It looks like an EQ5, and yes you could make it fully goto by replacing the handset (and maybe motors) with an AstroEQ device from Tom Carpenter (https://astroeq.co.uk/tutorials.php) its how I drive mine....

A dimensioned diagram would help....

Personally, I wouldn't make a wooded one, due to the weight increase, prone to moisture damage etc. I'd look for a flight case & add additional foam as needed e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/2253749554?iid=400989894791

Maplin is no longer available, unless you can find one 2nd hand.... They all work on the basis of generating a high frequency oscillator, then using a step-up transformer, and finally regulating\smoothing the output.... (Buck converting) I've used some of these successfully https://www.amazon.co.uk/Step-Up-Module-Converter-Step-up/dp/B07Y9YT9HP

I hate to say it, but that sounds like a classic option for a 3D printed part, I've just done something similar for a stage 1 conversion of a PST, to allow it to mount into a standard 2" eyepiece fitting.

Here you go https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduino-myrotator/ I also have all the parts & was considering one on my ED80 (with the updated focuser) so should be relatively easy to integrate it...