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Dr_Ju_ju

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Everything posted by Dr_Ju_ju

  1. A DSLR, is NOTHING like a Laptop, it is a much more confined space, with smaller connectors, smaller screws, finer wires etc. all requiring precision tools... then when you've got it apart, removing the stock filters is very delicate work.
  2. You may also need to tighten up the power socket in the handset, ensuring it grips the plug securely. I've found, that over time, they can get a slack\loose.
  3. You probably haven't told windows the extension of the file that Sharpcap generates the files as, so they would just be stored locally.
  4. That's how most of use drive\guide the mount. Once your computer has connections to mount, cameras, guide cameras etc. and runs the appropriate software, that is all that's required.
  5. You just need to plug your grey one into the motor control unit (Hand Controller), instead of the handset, the guider\st4 port is a feed from the guide camera, and can be ignored.
  6. yes, the DB9 you have is not the right adaptor for an EQ5, you will need of the adaptors I linked to. BTW when you have an appropriate adaptor, you won't be using the handset anymore, as the adaptor plugs into the motor box instead of the handset.
  7. If it has a DB9, that usually means it\was for an older EQ6, is that correct ?
  8. NO, that will be RS232 compliant, you must stop just looking for a cheap as chips product, it probably won't work, & will more than likely damage your gear.....
  9. You pays your money, you takes your choice..... I've always made my own up, so can't comment, but to me it does seem cheap IF its a legit chipset....
  10. This mob will make you one up, to whatever length.... http://beltingonline.co.uk/ you will need to supply width, tooth spacing & length.....
  11. FORGET RS232, these interfaces are NOT rs232 compliant, if you put a fully compliant rs232 device into your mount\handset, you'll have more work to do repairing things....
  12. If you want to make it up yourself, you buy one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-to-TTL-Serial-Cable-FTDI-Genuine-chipset-5V-Transparent-with-LEDs/292901772167 , you can then either totally remove the cable that comes with it and fit up an Cat5 cable, with appropriate connections (only four required), or splice a cat5 cable onto the existing.... The one thing I would say, what I have linked to is a 5v switching, there is also a 3.3v switching version, and you will need to chaeck which version you need for your mount.
  13. If you use that RJ45\DSub connector, you can usually remove-re-isnsert the interconnect wires (taking care) then a standard ethernet cable will suffice, and can be any length (within reason)
  14. I don't know the GT81 William Optics ? but I'd be wary of only using 2 mounting holes, is the one occupied or not ?? and is the other for manual 'focus lock' ? If I was belt driving , then mounting the motor parallel to focus spindle axis, so that the belt could go around the 10:1 knob, but it doesn't have to, as you can setup step rates within the software. Direct driving means removing the non 10:1 knob & mounting the stepper in-line with the focus shaft, this is the method I prefer, but then there is a large lump sticking out, but then the Skywatcher ED80 etc., usually have 4 screws for the focuser shaft mounting plate, so I just use longer screws & fit the motor bracket there.
  15. You'll need to get a replacement belt, and some Allen keys. It looks like the motor has been pivoted around the bottom right bolt (which is a motor plate bolt), but I'm not sure how the motor plate is held in place as it looks like there are neoprene washers holding it in place, which could well have moved over the years, especially if the mount wasn't balanced, putting a lot more strain on the axis..
  16. What I linked to is just for the remote 'sensors'. If it only works as wireless device, I'd be surprised, as even for testing I would expect some sort of port, & I've sure it would be trivial to either phantom power it, or even have a separate power lead, with a local buck regulator.
  17. Being kinder, I found this on the bay, its just the 'probe' https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oregon-Scientific-WGR800-Anemometer-Wind-Sensor-for-WMR-Weather-Stations-NEW/293533391845
  18. Ahh poor thing.... have you considered the cheap option, a windsock 😆
  19. As long as you have the firmware downloaded from Skywatcher, (they don't hide it very well....) and their flash programming utility, as long as you have some patience, then its easy..... I've also used Bossa flash utility, which can give you more control over the process.
  20. That is Prusa's original & its somewhere on the site https://www.prusa3d.com/ I think they are buried in the kit section of the original Prusa I3 MK2, but you would need to modify it for your particular power supply and any switches\indicators you want to fit.... If you can get past its 'interesting' search functionality, you can usually find a starting point at https://www.stlfinder.com/ I found the originals for you https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/
  21. Noooo no removal of components, the system is designed to be flash programmed.....
  22. Do you want to 'mate' the camera to the MAK, so the MAK becomes the lens for the camera ?, or just mount the camera with its lens on top of the MAK ? And yes both options are possible with the appropriate bits of metal\plastic...
  23. And here is the proof of that type on a Prusa printer... The Black & Red is for some LED's instead of the Ikea lights....
  24. If your budget will stretch to it I'd recommend getting a Meanwell version of one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-DC-12V-15A-180W-Transformer-Power-Supply-Driver-Switch-for-LED-Strip-Light-UK/264540526259 but then I use that type anyway, with no issues....
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