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Dr_Ju_ju

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About Dr_Ju_ju

  • Rank
    Brown Dwarf

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Well, at least peering at the skies...
    Oh, and fish, computing, photography, music and others...
  • Location
    Addlestone, Surrey, UK
  1. If you want to drill & tap it, for mounting the box, then I'd recommend 2.5 - 3.0 mm x 50mm wide (to aid rigidity)
  2. If you have any Paddock electrical tape, that wrapped in an insulating cloth & suitably terminated, will probably do what your after....
  3. If the hardware is that old, then I wouldn't bother updating, as I suspect Win 10 will get upset & screw up the install & run very badly..... If you need Windows, on that hardware, then virtualise it & run it as a virtual under Linux.
  4. Glad to hear it Louise, if you need any help, you know where to come.....
  5. rubbish, even using an RC network will not remove the effect, it may flatten it out, but not get rid of it.....
  6. That's the problem with switching dimmers, even going very fast will result in the led's strobing, or causing other effects as not all led's are the same.... Even using simpler voltage reduction dimmers, will at some point result in the led's 'dropping' out causing uneven illumination. That why I went for an EL panel, it just work with a constant flat illumination, that isn't too bright.
  7. With my LED panel, I still had to diffuse the light, as by their nature, they are spot sources of illumination, and the 'spots' showed in the flats.....
  8. None at all & I don't have to worry about trying to dim\diffuse point source LEDs (I've also made an LED one, but never use it)
  9. I use an electro luminescent panel e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/BeMatik-Electroluminescent-panel-100x100-white/dp/B0115SWPPI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Electroluminescent+panel or https://elpanelandtape.co.uk/el-panel/. Mine runs from 12v and doesn't require any dimmers etc., just taped down onto some 2mm hardboard...
  10. ummm, robocopy can also, continuously monitor folders for new items & copy them to a remote destination, it doesn't have to run then stop, but can also keep running, waiting for new files to sync, etc.
  11. Use the inbuilt robocopy, granted it doesn't have a fancy gui, but its free & will do everything the others will do (some are just a gui front end to robocopy) and its easily scriptable to copy files between multiple sources\destinations etc....
  12. But you do need to take flats for each filter....
  13. If you've only just updated to 1903, then be prepared for a number of further updates, some which are quite large and WILL require re-boots. It will also be a pain as some of the updates will only be shown after preceding updates have been installed & the system re-booted...
  14. the curse of starting sooo many, then misplacing the current running threads......
  15. This is on my Prusa MK2 so standard 0.4 nozzle, bed @ 60, extruder @ 215 & 30~50 % cooling after 3 layers. I'd also recommend Prusa's own slicer (https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/) based on Slic3r, but very highly updated with updated profiles for almost all filaments.... EDIT - a picture of a just completed print, of non metallic clothes pegs for use in my pond filtration system, using Rigid Ink's PLA Plus (sadly no more), with settings as above....
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