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About Dr_Ju_ju

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Well, at least peering at the skies...
    Oh, and fish, computing, photography, music and others...
  • Location
    Addlestone, Surrey, UK

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  1. Something like this should be ok
  2. They are the same, I just un-soldered the blocks and replaced it with the red\black wires
  3. That's the way I use them, but I've fitted dual outputs i.e.
  4. I use these They can easily be removed from the case & bolted into another case to suit your needs. I use them in pairs for multiple dew strips
  5. As you have it, they will run "full on" all the time, and will likely get things too hot, and has the potential to drain you power source (batteries ?) quicker .... using a simple controller(s) will give you more flexibility. There are Arduino controlled ones and what I use, the cheap LED dimmers from the bay.
  6. Hi John, This is the thread where I found the info
  7. FYI, One thing I found on the ASI forum, is that the hub is only powered when the camera is supplied with 12v for the cooling...
  8. use the usb hub on the 1600
  9. FYI, Tom Sanladerer has been running some group testing of filaments, an overview can be watched here
  10. Are you setting up for visual or photograpic use ? what will be your OTA, cameras etc... If visual - think about where the eyepiece will end up & if photographic could the equipment\weights hit the ground....
  11. I'd be interested, but how much ??
  12. I use a cheapo one from eBay, but I've also tried an expensive Microsoft Dual-Strike controller, it just needs to be a USB connected one, then in EQMod just enable & map up the keys you want to use\control.
  13. That looks to be a cut-down Wanhao i3, with a melzi control board, so can't be updated with auto bed levelling etc., but as long as you accept its limitations, it looks ok.
  14. But when you've got the printer (and you can get a workable one for £130), you won't need the fidget, as you can design & print things that are useful for Astronomy ...
  15. Take 'ur pick & print one