Dr_Ju_ju

Silly question, but why do you think your camera is any louder than any other camera ? have you measured it ? I ask, as what we perceive as loud, is often due to our being attuned to the noise, and making it subjectively louder in the process..... and yes, if you used BackyardEOS, it can mirror lock the camera.

You must still run it using armoured cable, rats can get anywhere, and safety is the primary importance....

Forget Raspian, just goto Mate

To be honest, I'd always be inclined to blame the cabling\USB connections, as whenever I've seen any issues, it has eventually come down to those two....

All I know is I see many peeps getting a Creality, for the hardware, but soon update the control system to a Duet3d board (https://www.duet3d.com/). I have a Prusa i3 Mk2 and a self build DBot\Duet3d printer, and I find each has its own place, and better for doing some parts as opposed to others.

Just bare in mind that USB 3.0 cables are usually much shorter that USB 2.0

I know its stretching your budget, but if you want a good reliable printer, that will print using all materials, then you can't go wrong with a Prusa Mk3 https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/180-original-prusa-i3-mk3-kit.html

excellent.....

Have a look here https://www.sharpcap.co.uk/sharpcap/downloads actually the latest version is 3.2.6342.0

2nd thought, have you tried the latest version 3.2.6248.0 ?

Have you tried reducing the USB Turbo speed ?

I'll print it for you, but first a few questions: 1: Is it a Swarovski scope you have or some other make ? as the wrong dimensions would make the resultant print un-worksble... 2: Do you want it printed as a 'one' piece or the 'three' piece, for you to glue together ? 3: Do you have preference for colour ? 4: I would probably print it in PLA, is that ok ? FYI, the OpenScad file will enable easier modifications if required ?

There may not be an Ascom driver, but a native driver instead ??

Does the drivers\software available from https://www.astronomycameras.com/support/downloads/ not give you what you want ??

Yes, the RA ring will indicate a 12 hour shift, but to be honest I only use the rings to set initial park position & after that forget about them....

Home, i.e. the Park position, usually means, counter weights down & the OTA pointing towards Polaris, but NOT directly at Polaris.... What the RA & DEC rings show will be arbitrary as they are both adjustable...

Yep, that will work... The reason that a 'TRUE' RS232 cable should not be used is that the specification for rs-232 stipulates a 15 volt switching signal, where most modern mounts only require either a 3.3 or 5 volt (usually 5volt) switching signal....

Sorry but it really as simple as that, that's why most people follow this route....

you can make one with some timber strip & nails....

I'm not sure what you mean in 'relay mode' ?? If you are going to use a computer to control the mount, then the best option is to put the synscan controller in a draw & forget about it. Depending on the age of your mount hardware you then just connect the mount to the computer either directly or via a USB to serial adaptor...

Have you tried a washer between the screw & base, to pack it out a bit so that you have some additional 'meat' to tighten up on ?

Bad 'seeing', i.e. the air mass is moving between your scope and the target, making the target shimmer....

One quick thing to make the standard EQ3 mount a little sturdier, is to drill a hole in the centre of the accessory tray, and add another bolt in the centre, through to the 3 way plastic 'keeper'. The other thing I've done, but makes it a lot heavier, is to fill each of the square section tubes with fine concrete....

is it able to focus on any stars ??

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