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Dr_Ju_ju

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Everything posted by Dr_Ju_ju

  1. If there isn't one here : https://www.qhyccd.com/polemaster/ then I'd suggest you'll have to make one, the easiest being a 3D printed part, but that relies you having the right equipment available....
  2. I take it you mean the AZ EQ5-GT mount (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-az-eq5-gt-geq-alt-az-mount.html) ? if so, and by the look of it, from the pictures, it is based on some for of GX16 multipole connector e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283143222904 and so, personally, also if you have a soldering iron etc., I'd just make one or more up, to the length you require, and maybe even using a coiled cable, to allow for extension without too much dangling around....
  3. Have a look here http://www.skywatcher.com/download/software/synscan-v3-hand-controller-firmware/
  4. If you are having problems sourcing belts, then have a look here https://www.beltingonline.com/ they do belts for almost all applications & system types etc., at reasonable cost, quick shipping etc. I've just used them to source some belts for a Baader Steeltrack focuser, which uses a 3mm pitch belt, I ordered Thursday late afternoon & they turned up in the post this morning....
  5. I went for the 8 way EFW, so I can have a 'full' set of Baader filters installed (the Astrodon's I felt were a tad expensive)....
  6. You need to ensure that the filters actually cover the CMOS sensor, and that the filter has enough spaces for all the filters you want to use LRGB / LHaHbOiiiSii/ etc.....
  7. Personally, I don't use PEC on my AZEQ6/EQMod setup, as the Plate solving / PHD2 routines and the supposed PEC alignments point will, over time, diverge, and so it ends up in a fight between the two, and you start losing valuable imaging time....
  8. Nothing is stored 'inside' the mount, and I take it that you are using the handset to control/drive the mount ?? therefore the start-up/initialization procedure will be to polar align and PEC alignment...
  9. Can you post an image please? & what software are you using to view the image, as some will show a monochrome image / single colour (red/green/blue) unless instructed to show a full colour view...
  10. If there is any designation info marked on the motor e.g. 17HS13-1334S, that will give you an indication of what to look for, i.e. size, holding torque, phase resistance, phase inductance, step angle etc. With this info you should then be able to find a suitable replacement on a site like https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/# I use their motors all the time for 3D printers / focusers / motorising an old EQ5 ....
  11. Have you set your 'Active Hours' to be during the night time hours ? also under advanced option make sure you've un-set "Restart this device..." as a final kludge, you can switch-off / disable "Windows Update" service....
  12. Why do you think that you want to re-grind the mirror ?? is it damaged in any way ?? Personally, I'd just use it as ism and get as much enjoyment out of it, and if/when you want to take the hobby further, then look at buying something that meets your requirements, for what interests you the most....
  13. Yes, it can slew the mount & then 'follows' Ekos etc. just the same as on a Windows platform, and if you prefer Stellarium, there is a Linux version https://snapcraft.io/stellarium-daily
  14. Personally, and after going through a number of Linux flavours etc., I've always returned to Ubuntu Mate (https://ubuntu-mate.org/) which I've found gives me the most stable, configurable, and does everything I need, and runs everything well, even on RPi's, Odroids etc. Also have you tried running CDC on your RPi ??
  15. How are you connecting the PC to the mount, directly or via the handset ?? if via the handset, is it in PC control mode ?
  16. Is it using the same device driver outside as inside ?? when you uninstalled COM4, not a good move btw, did you tell it to un-install the driver as well ??
  17. If you have a gig network, I'd also recommend using something like a NAS server e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124893065601?epid=14034682890&hash=item1d1434f181:g:nOcAAOSwHTdhOPMv fitted with 2/4TB disks, and save all images directly to the device, which are then accessible anywhere on the network.....
  18. If you are driving another computer remotely, and only really using the laptop for post processing, it then begs the question is it a laptop you really need ?? as there are plenty of workstation PC's around that will easily accommodate what you require, with added advantages of Gig-Bit ethernet ports, multi monitor support, with added graphics cards, etc.....
  19. If the laptop is working ok & doing everything you need, apart from a dodgy keyboard etc. then why not just use a USB keyboard/mouse, whether wired or wireless e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123010051035?epid=14032176994&hash=item1ca3f86bdb:g:acQAAOSw5W9e6TsF and a larger screen.... If you really want to go the new device route, have you considered going the Raspberry Pi. Linux etc. route, for control & image gathering, then using the laptop for processing ??
  20. to my mind a tad pricey, but ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114947916074?hash=item1ac36e012a:g:8cUAAOSwy-JhIZty
  21. If you can get permission, & have space inside your house somewhere, you should be able to test your setup with different software\hardware configurations etc. just won't be able to get pretty pictures etc....
  22. If you were only closer, but hey ho, I suppose €50 is reasonable....
  23. Yep, putting my electronics engineering hat on, that is a simple repair.....
  24. Maybe a silly question, but what is actually wrong with the one you have ?? it may be easier to repair your existing unit...
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