Starflyer

Agreed and something I wouldn't want to attempt. I don't have the patience to tweak and take test images over and over.

Just come back to a load of replies, thanks all! Lots to consider I may well get Juan to do the full spectrum mod for me, as part of this he adjusts the sensor to retain infinity focus. This way I can use it with the IDAS filter from home and 'naked' from dark sites. The clear glass filter isn't much cheaper than getting Juan to remove both filters and adjust the sensor.

Thanks Adam. Is there an IR/UV blocking version? If I go with a replacement filter I may leave the IDAS filter until a later date.

Thanks for the reply. Cheers Ian

Hi knowledgeable folks, I'm thinking of a full spectrum mod, both filters removed, on a canon 1100D. I understand I won't achieve infinity focus with camera lenses, this is the intended use btw, if I added an IDAS clip filter would it then focus with camera lenses? And if so is this filter UV/IR blocking? I'll need a LP filter and I'm trying to get the mod done and retain infinity focus. Cheers Ian

Even with an absolute focuser autofocus can be tricky to set up and get working, but once you have it working it will change your imaging so much. I'd almost forgotten how much time I wasted focusing on every filter change or losing hours of data because I wrongly assumed that my filters were parfocal. Good luck with getting your relative focuser working.

Great scope but the sad fact is that OO gear depreciates very heavily compared to most other brands. I've owned two VX10s and now own a CT10, all with 1/10 optics, all bought secondhand for around a third of the retail price. Good luck with the sale.

Following as I was about to ask the very same question.

They really are outstanding cameras, small sensor but seriously sensitive and much underrated. Great image btw.

If you plan to use the camera and OAG combination on a refractor as well as your newt then get the very thin (10mm) OAG. This combo will have to work on both scopes and most flattener / reducers for fracs need 55mm backfocus. Once you have a working set up with 55mm backfocus you can simply swap the coma corrector for the flattener / reducer to use the camera on a different scope. To complicate matters the SW coma corrector uses a 48mm thread, I'd go with the Baader MPCC, which uses a standard T thread, but check the flattener / reducer for your frac uses a T thread. Complicated I know, but worth getting it right and only spending the money once.

The grease will cause a lot more friction, not too much of a problem when tracking, however it may cause sticktion issues when guiding. The other problem overgreasing causes is that you'll really struggle to balance your mount with all that friction.

Any thoughts on the Creality CR-6 SE? I ordered one at the start of the Kickstarter campaign, it'll be my first 3D printer and the self leveling sold it for me as it'll have to be moved each time I come to use it. I realise I'll have to pay VAT and Parcelforce's clearance fee, but it was a cracking price, does anyone know what duty is charged on 3D printers?

When I had a cooled 450D the main benefit I found was that the horizontal banding disappears completely below an exif temp of about 10°C. I also thought star colours looked more vivid with the cooled camera. Nice project.

I made one a while back from a piece of aluminium angle and two cap allen bolts. If you use black (hardened steel) bolts, keep them short and use a nut on each so that only a few mm protrudes then they shouldn't bend.

I had both the Baader MK3 and the Skywatcher 0.9x CC, both gave good star shapes with my f/4.8 OO newt, but I gave up on the Skywatcher due to pretty bad reflections.