Dr_Ju_ju

None of my Canons will work on a USB3 port whether that is a computer direct or hub of any type, especially the Canon EOS utilities & I always use the shortest StarTech leads I can get away with....

I use my 600D at 100\200 ISO but its always a juggling act between ISO setting \ exposure time & how much picture noise you're willing to put up with. Also I don't use any additional filters, on my fully modded cameras, as for me, they are just for quick-grab images, while the main mono camera does its thing....

Personally I have 2 600D's, one modded one not, so would recommend you get one, especially as mbp.com has a few for £160, some with lower shuter counts.... I also have a modded 1100D plus other Canons, but I will always go back to the 600D

I raised this topic a few months ago, but nothing came of it, but I hope it does come to fruition, as I have lots of parts, that I've designed & printed (currently printing a 'nose-piece' for a PST), that may be of no use to others, but may give them an idea on what to design & print...

FYI, if nobody has yet seen it, there's a newer camera for the Raspberry Pi, that has a higher Res, using a Sony IMX477 chip, and best of all it uses interchangeable lenses as it has a C-CS mount. More details here https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-high-quality-camera-module Its double the price of the existing camera, but it may well make a reasonable all sky system with the appropriate lens...

I find a lot of USB 2.0 devices do not like being connected through a USB 3.0 hub, even if the hub is 'good quality' e.g. Canon cameras, so I use both types of hub....

Some more info is required, e.g. Operating System ? which version of Stellarium ? If you are using the latest version (20.1) on Windows 10, then have a look in "C:\Users\YOUR_USER_NAME\AppData\Roaming\Stellarium" as the config file should be there... I should read the subject properly & not jump-in, but I'd also recommend updating to 20.1, which also has the big advantage that you would no longer require the use of StellariumScope.

If you really want super quiet fans, then buy a Noctua (https://noctua.at/en/products/fan)

Personally, I'd stop worrying about absolute positioning, as even with my fixed and aligned mount, after slewing to a target, it may well be up to 1500 pixels away, as seen by the Plate Solver, but a few iterations of the solver will soon bring it on-target.

To achieve balance, if you don't have any counter weight, rotate the OTA such that the motor is in-line with the mount and not off to the side, but then you may need to juggle the guider etc...

No, you face the mount north and then Polar Align, this is basically a mechanical process that aligns the mount to NCP (North Celestial Pole), when complete, you 'lock up' the mount with weights down and the OTA pointing toward Polaris, note it won't be exact. You then connect all the software and devices together e.g. Stellarium\CDC, Sharpcap etc. if you've got everything configured properly, you can then drive the mount using CDC\Stellarium then within Sharpcap, assuming you've configured Plate Solving (not sure it can), whatever you do don't undo any clutches....

Hopefully you are running the latest version of Stellarium 20.01, push F2 to open the Configuration window, then select plug-ins, toward the bottom of the list is the "Telescope Control" plug-in. Under options put a tick in 'Load at startup', click on configure, but if nothing happens re-start Stellarium. After you click on configure, a 'Telescopes' window will open, where you then click on Add, where you can then select Ascom under 'Telescope Controlled by:' scrolling down the lower window to Ascom settings, click 'Choose Ascom Telescope' then select your Ascom telescope port, after clicking OK you should then be able to 'Connect' to your mount.... This will then allow Stellarium to drive your mount to wherever you want....

Only if you've installed the full Ascom package and the individual applications are all talking to each other & the mount....

Sequence Generator Pro ??

2 additional thoughts, why is it doing a solve before the flip as it 'should' have been on-target already, and why is it trying to do a 'blind' solve after the flip ??

👍

FYI Info Dave, to get a more accurate Bed temperature reading, I decided try a different Thermistor that would be easier to mount at the edge of the bed to cater for the thermal latency in the thicker bed, but otherwise of the same spec as the one that came fitted to the mains powered heating pad. A quick search through Farnell and I came upon an Epcos Thermistor, that can be bolted down, and has the same spec. (https://uk.farnell.com/epcos/b57703m1104a002/thermistor-ntc-100k-wire-leaded/dp/2672684?CMP=i-bf9f-00001000) so I thought I'd give it a go, as they aren't too expensive, just have to watch the shipping costs. I did a quick lash-up \ test and was glad that the device could be easily integrated. So I bolted it onto the bed plate using the same bolt that I've already fitted to connect an Earth safety bond, and spliced it into the existing wires. A quick M303 to tune the Bed heater and I was away.... It is still a slow process to heat the bed (all that metal, 10mm sheet), but at least I'll know that the bed has reached the appropriate temperature at the edges, even if it is a few degrees warmer towards the centre...

Have you installed the Ascom driver for the EqDrive ?

Sorry no....

No, a lot are, but they can often be UNC threads i.e. the ones found on Camera plates etc..

Unless you have very good wifi, go ethernet, especially if you are saving remotely... My main home system, I run an i3, 8Gb mem, 120Gb SSD, which controls mount, 3 cameras, 2 focusers, filter wheel etc. and saves images over GB ethernet, to a Synology store, all controlled using Remote desktop. I also have additional systems based on Rock64\Rock64Pro\Pi4's running Ubuntu Mate \ Ekos etc. these are also remote controlled using Remote desktop (Xrdp).

I have 2 Astro modded Canons a 600D & an 1100D, and I much prefer the 600D as it has a 'cleaner' image. I also have a non modded 600D, for general day to day use. A quick rule of thumb with Canon cameras, the lower the number in a series, the better the camera, e.g. 6D is better than 60D which in turn is better than 600D.....

I hate to say it, but if you have a 3D printer, you could probably remodel the part in Tinkercad, or one of the other 3D drawing packages, and print a replacement...... I have a couple of the same tripods, and was thinking of doing it, plus a new 'compressor' part for higher up, but I've other things on the go at the mo.

2 thoughts, if it failed that quickly, it wasn't fit for purpose, therefore either a replacement or refund, and secondly an interim 'good will', loan camera ??

Then also check the socket on the mount, and if you can, replace the plug\socket arrangement with some of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x-GX16-2-3-4-Pin-Female-Male-Aviation-Connector-Plug-Circular-Socket-Metal/223065862292 They will provide a much more secure connection....