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About msacco

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  1. Sorry, I meant an unedited stack or single frame, do you possibly have any? Thanks.
  2. That would depend on the shipping costs, but I could get the 0.9x for a total of 140 gbp including shipping, so I'm not really sure it would make much of a difference. Do you have an image taken with that coma corrector to see the corners? Thanks. Thanks, I did see that, but the only corrector relevant for me there is the baader, so that still doesn't really give me a good enough comparison compared to the 0.9x/aplanatic, tough the explore scientific one looks amazing, but the price is a bit high for that and I'm not sure I'd want to invest so much into that.
  3. Which model is that exactly? I don't think it's the aplanatic? Do you have the link to the product? I'm not from the UK so I wonder if shipping prices would make it worthy for me, but what is the price excluding shipping?
  4. That's.....surely possible. So I guess that I don't really need to go with the aplanatic, but which one is better? The 0.9x or the baader one? The slightly wider focal length and f ratio could be pretty cool... One more thing, any relevant information regarding adapters that I need to know? My camera is M42, but I have no issues with M48 as well.
  5. Thanks! I'm not new to imaging at all tbh, I imaged with the Newtonian in the past, I also own a C8 Edge HD and a SharpStar refractor. I did search for results in astrobin, but I don't think you can really tell how much the image is cropped, so that's why it's hard to determine that. But that's sooooooo weird though, as I remember searching yesterday and seeing LOTS people saying that the baader is not a good choice, but now all I see are good reviews, maybe I was just too tired? I'll try to go over my previous history and see what I find there. I don't really have a budget limit,
  6. Hey, I've read a few previous discussions about it here, but some of them are old, so I just wanted to ask and hear some thoughts. I have a Skywatcher Explorer 200P (1000mm, F/5) I'm using for imaging along with the ASI071MC pro, and I'd like to get a coma corrector for it. There seems to be lots of possible options so I'd like to get some suggestions. These are the common options: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/coma-correctors/baader-mark-iii-mpcc-coma-corrector-photographic.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/coma-correctors/skywatcher-f4-aplanatic-coma-corrector.html https:/
  7. I don't own the Esprit 120 yet, so sorry can't help with that
  8. Oh, I thought you were referring to different type of calibrations, 1 for offsets which you do just once, and the other that you do just to get the current position or something in case it's manually moved, but yeah since you have the sensors there's probably no need to that. Awesome, thanks
  9. So the calibration is just something you're running at the beginning of each session just to initialize the positions or something? Or you don't even need that since you can just know when you reach position x? And thanks a lot for answering all my questions, it's really helpful.
  10. I did manage to make pretty good 3D printed threads using PETG, which is also very sturdy, but I think I'd always try to avoid that when I have other options, and yeah there's obviously the weight part as well, even though PETG is really strong, maybe just strong enough? Depends on the use case obviously. And that's great...When you say that you haven't had to touch the offsets since the initial calibration, do you mean that the calibration calculates the offsets and stores them 'permanently'?
  11. Oh awesome. Sorry, lots of information to process and understand(for me at least :x and I want to precisely understand everything I do) That sounds like a cool idea, at first I thought of completely 3D printing a filter wheel, but I feel like it just won't be good enough, especially when you have to somehow take care of the threads, and sounds like it won't be an easy task, or at least something that will last for long time. I think the last question about the magnets is about the usage, I think that the sensor should detect the magnets even before the sensor is exactly above the cen
  12. Yep that's pretty much what I thought, sorry once again...But why do you need 4 sensors in that case? Since you're using only 3 magnets variations, 3 sensors should be enough for that? Is the 4th sensor used for something else? Or I'm still missing something? Thanks, that's really really useful.
  13. I see, and how do you detect the different positions according the positions of these sensors? By the different magnets bits I guess? And it looks like all the sensors are aligned, does each of them checks for something different? Sorry, I'm just still missing the basic understanding of that. I'm not in a hurry making that so I really want to plan everything from beginning to end before starting and take my time with it.
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