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About skybadger

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  • Birthday 09/02/69

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    Riseley Berkshire
  1. Thanks to both. I shall checkout the thread and come back if there any questions. Hugh , is there a name for this PC and how is it performing. I have noticed there are recovered license sites selling cheaply. I'm glad you had a good experience. At that price it's worth a punt. Cheers Mike
  2. Thanks for the reply. Not using server hardware but hardware fit for purpose. HP DL 380 would not be appropriate here but there are loads of people with experience of small fast pcs with strange mods. The choice of os is a halfway house between old code and new toys. And what I have licenses for.
  3. Hi all my current server seems to be being stretched and is complaining. I am having driver problems, USB problems and overall performance problems and that's after a recent rebuild of Windows 2008 R2 after a disk crash. Can anyone recommend me a server hardware that would support: 12 USB connectors >2 hard disks supports SSD and suspend mode i am looking for small size, plenty of power in the power supply to support the USB requirements and reliability. Recommendations please! Cheers Mike
  4. Being an amateur geologist a long time ago I suggest those pieces are volcanic in origin, contains red garnet crystals and don't have an obvious crust. But I still hope for your sake that they are..! M
  5. I was about to ask about fixing banding but I think the solution has just presented itself. I have tried using a tilt adapter both before and after the filter. Placed before had no impact and surprisingly, neither did after. However after reading this you have prompted me to check whether they rotate with the two camera I am using. Then I can either address the window or reassess the tilt adapter. Cheers Mike
  6. I watched it throughout the season from start to finish through a 6" Cooke refractor. Black points became trails and eventually faded. It was fairly sobering and magnificent. M
  7. What makes you think synthetic hydrocarbons are less appealing than natural ones to things that eat them ? M
  8. Nose grease , just a smidgen is required. And it's free.
  9. I've used cement quite happily for a tile tool. Went off without a problem. I also used the tiles set side on for longer grinding. Using 1cm square tiles worked really well. Can't say I finished polishing it though.. Mike
  10. " Someone else said previously that if you have a candle 100m away and bring it to 6" away, is it brighter? No, just closer." I might regret this, but it is apparently brighter but not intrinsically brighter. It's brighter because it's closer and therefore by the 1/r^2 rule it must be brighter, there is more energy pouring into the same unit solid angle of the observers eye. If unresolved, the flame will just appear brighter, if resolved, the light might be smeared over more rods , so now you have 2 rods firing not just one. But the flame isn't burning any harder. for a telescope, the brightness increases by the light gathering area but decreases by the f/ratio, compared to the eye. That's because the image size and inversely , the brightness per unit area,scales by the f/ratio. cheers Mike
  11. "Depth really isn't that critical for a pad, as much as area. If I was laying one I would make it a meter square but perhaps only 150cm thick on a good base of well tamped down hardcore. We have the base for a summer house and the concrete is no more than 4" thick (over a sandy soil) and I would defy anyone to bother a scope set up on it with anything short of sledgehammer blows." I don't think I can agree with this. I had a similar large thick concrete apron around the back of my garage which is where I bolted the observatory and the mount. I could easily see every truck that went past 60 yards away in teh scope vibrations and that was a sturdy, heavy welded tripod mount. I have a double pass liquid mirror ronchi tester in the garage and I can see every breath I take while standing 3 feet away in that because its on a common thick concrete floor. Cheers Mike
  12. Doh! Thanks Nigel . The scope I built was mobile with some heft and the wheel barrow wheel at the front. Bet one night I hefted, ran into a bump and then it went over the top. So the mount is in bits while I replace the horseshoe disk. I'v taken the opportunity to move the CoG so should be able to remove some counterweights. I'll finish that one I've finished my ronchi double pass liquid mirror experiments... Alpollo, The idea seems really good. Have you thought about folding a slightly larger scope to keep your size down while allowing a larger aperture ? One of the projects on my books is a 15" f/8 that's going to be too long without folding... Regards Mike
  13. Hi Alpollo a 900mm aperture split ring? That's going to be some telescope. I built a 12" f/6 split ring some while ago and there were some lessons that had to be learnt: Design around the centre of mass from the start. You will be surprised how close your mirror and pivots are. It needs careful weight and distance measurement but its worth it in a simple spreadsheet. This means your trusses will be highly asymmetric. Ot that you might care to introduce a central rigid box and shorter trusses either end. I also found that the plywood top ring was very easy to build heavy - I built it as a rigid two-tier cake with focuser mount in-between. Then re-built it it with a single top ring and suspended focuser. Over time this has warped slightly. In other words it needs to be both very stiff and very light to not skew your balance and not go out of shape. There's some pictures here but I'm sur you have looked at lots already. Good luck Mike
  14. I have an upside down pyramid of concrete as my base, about a meter on a side at the surface, going down a meter to the clay line and just below. The pier it supports is 8' high so the intent was to prevent vibration by getting a large surface area and counteract the large fulcrum by having some depth. The load is about 100kg fully laden, so there will be two effects, that of a pendulum with fixed end and column resonance. The Column is 12" diameter so I'm not worried by flexure or resonance, so I just need enough of a damping mass at the end and to resist bending forces. It has been sufficient .... Mike
  15. Hi Gina. Fair enough but I assumed most of that, which is where the question is coming from. 13M ticks is a small fraction of an arc second per tick, so maybe it's a case of precision not resolution. Hi Hugh. I was looking at the product selector pages and also some motors on the bay from FHA. Assuming you behave as if the harmonic gear head is an exceedingly stiff planetary gear, typical ratios are still only 100:1, which means yet more gearing is required. So still looking for that understanding. Mike