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skybadger

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About skybadger

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    skybadger

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    Male
  • Interests
    Archery
    Motorbikes
    Electronics
    Astronomy
  • Location
    Riseley Berkshire
  1. In short, no. You need to reimage the grating which needs a lens.. I have one setup with filter step ring to camera lens and t2 on the s ppr side. Works a treat apart from droop due to slop on the lens. Use a fixed lens for better operation. Move to focus and then wind in or out a touch to see several lines.
  2. Just don't use normal bearing grease on the worms.
  3. Sure, but it's up to you to find resistor values that are equally spaced from a standard value sec. As lo g as you can distinguish between them it doesn't matter.
  4. I had to search for it but it is downloadable here https://pubs.er.usgs.gov/publication/sim3316 hth.
  5. You only need one adc for reading the voltages acRoss the bearing resistor network according to one supplier. (But not usi g the Circuit above). The adc doesn't have to be the native one either, I use one on the i2c bus for that and the bme device. The anemometer only needs one Reed or hall or other sensor which means one pin, but if that is not the way you want to arrange things there are other ways, two digital pins for an encoder or optoswitch for example.
  6. The Reed switches only need a single resistor to create a bridge if you are reusing an existing setup. Otherwise you will need 9, one for each octet and 1 for the bridge. The adc should not be configured for pull-ups or downs, those options won't be available for an input configured as an adc.
  7. Once you have the boot loaderi n there, you can update over the air using the updater library.
  8. That will work fine under Linux, using the Linux Arduino ode or the esp tools which are python.... setup the board library and you are off running. That is a -12f version.
  9. I get 20m out of mine, across the garden from a wall plug AP.
  10. Jpl published a whole moon map that's about 4 foot to a side. It's freely downloadable and at some point I'll print me a copy for the wall.
  11. For me, the esp8266-01 is tiny which is the benefit over the -12 or -32. I have many of each to hand...
  12. Links to ultrasonics: http://embedded-lab.com/blog/making-an-ultrasonic-anemometer/ https://hackaday.com/2013/08/21/ultrasonic-anemometer-for-an-absurdly-accurate-weather-station/ https://www.dl1glh.de/ultrasonic-anemometer.html The hardest part for me seems to be the resonant tuned driving circuit but I expect there are examples of them on the net too.
  13. Link to my github for ESP8266 code : https://github.com/skybadger The maplins weather centre uses this scheme: https://www.argentdata.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=145 If I wanted high resolution wind diiretion sensing I'd probably go for a s cheap HP 400ppr HEDS encoder. Actual resolution is 1200 so loads of data but you might suffer from missed edges if it rotates fast. THE ESP8266-01 has 4 io pins , of which 1 is TX out for debugging, Rx is used as GPIO and GPIO0/2 are used for i2c to the ADC and BME280. Which means if I want to count anemometer edges I need an extra pin, same too if I want to count water bucket closures. Which meant I went to the ESP8266-12. I am using the adafruit huzzah ESP for this and currently boxing it up to fit inside the old maplins enclosure, which is where the challenge lies, the coding and parts all worked on the bench....
  14. That's the badger! but using the -12 version due to having more pins. My git pages have a bunch of Alpaca drivers on them that use the same general code pattern. The change is adapting for the sensors. I'd have thought you'd be up to building an ultrasonic sensor for speed and direction in one hit rather than remake the delicate propeller parts.
  15. What you are doing is providing a star at infinity from the reference scope to use as a star for the scope under test. It's sound, but you need a 12" scope to feed a 12" scope. This is the same as using an optical flat to dual-pass test optics with a ronchi. You need the same large optics to feed the scope under test. A false star at the end of the garden or reflected back to you from the end of the garden is the more practical approach in absence of an optical lab and expensive flats.
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