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About teoria_del_big_bang

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Apart from Astronomy 3D Printing, Model Railways, Real Railways.
  • Location
    Skipton, North Yorkshire
  1. Knowing my luck I would move to another planet and that would be hit and the Earth would survive. Steve
  2. We can't leave Europe how the heck are we going to leave the planet.
  3. And do not tighten the taper bearings too much. It just needs to take up any play and does not need a lot of pre-load. Basically tighten as much as you can by hand then maybe just an 1/8 turn more with a spanner (at most). Regarding the grease as well although I see no need really for any specialised grease most people seem to recommend lithium grease, but I notice that now even on the Astro-Baby site which most people use as the bible for doing this they give a caution about using white lithium grease:- NOTE 2: When this guide was originally written the accepted wisdom was that white lithium grease was an overall good lubricant. However it would appear thatstandard white lithium grease may cause problems under some extremes of damp/temperature. All of the mounts I have rebuilt have been done with whitelithium that is stable and often mixed with a syntehtic like Teflon or PTFE. It is best to consult the manufacturer on the quality of the product. heq5-rebuild Steve
  4. More or less as above none of the bearings are under any real load and do not move with speed so most good quality grease will do. I would say do not use really thick grease and do not pack them so tight with grease, they do not need a lot. Also get normal clearance bearings not C3 bearings. C3 bearings have a bigger clearance means that the bearing has room for expansion if needed between the races of the bearing. These are meant for high speed operation where the bearing may get hot and so need that room for expansion. You may think you are getting better quality bearings if you buy C3 but all you end up with is bearings that have play in them that is not required. You will get better precision with the normal, cheaper bearings. May not be of much use to you as you are not in the UK but this is what I bought when I did mine. I bought the larger bearings from Bearings R Us and the small bearings for the worm from Simply Bearings as that was the cheapest option. Steve
  5. Yes, I have Baader filters at 2 mm thickness so need to add about 0.7 mm, I think I read somewhere the ZWO ones may be 3 mm so looks like you may need to add 1mm. Steve
  6. I think the adjustable flattener is a great idea, unfortunately is cam on the market just after I bought mine otherwise I would have loved one. Steve
  7. Do you have a filter in between flattener and camera. if so you need to add 1/3 of the filter thickness to the 11.4 mm. Steve
  8. My flattener for my Z73 is the fixed one so that is what I have to do but I believe the adjustable one means you have done the right thing. Steve
  9. I am not sure - is that the whole frame or a crop ? My eyes are not the best but all the stars look slightly elongated but in same direction (to my weary eyes anyway) Steve
  10. Do you mean this diagram (last post on page) https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/225831-flattener-spacing/ Steve
  11. @Magnum was after one of these a while back Steve
  12. Do you still want one of these - look on classified https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/342883-baader-2-ha-narrowband-filter-7nm/ Steve
  13. I hope this is a solution for you to enjoy this wonderful facility Steve
  14. Have you had this mount from new or bought 2nd hand? Having stripped one of these down and replaced the gears myself when I also did the Rowan belt mod I would agree with the comments above it has to be connected with the worm or the gear that meshes with the worm. It could be a damaged tooth as suggested, It could be dirt but I would expect this to move around a bit and maybe be more intermittent rather than absolutely once per rev. It could also just be binding. When I put mine back together I was determined to get rid of any backlash and my first attempt looked fine to begin with absolutely could see no backlash in the worm. But when I mounted the scope and CB weights even when balanced it would bind once per rev of the worm and occasionally would miss a step of the stepper at the tight spot. I had to slacken everything off just ever so slightly. So for sure on mine I cannot totally eliminate backlash as I have to set it with zero backlash when it was tending to bind which means some slight backlash when the worm is at 180 degrees from this. Anyway what I mean to say is maybe if it is 2nd hand somebody did the same and the gears are getting very tight once per rev. If you turn the worm by hand when not under power you can feel it. The graphs tends to indicate this I think in that it hits a tight spot then loses position and PHD2 is sending correction pulses but nothing changing for a while then all of a sudden it goes but then goes too far because of the pulses that were sent and so PHD has to back-track and send opposite direction pulses. But again a broken tooth could show the same effect. Check the worm and the meshing gear as it has to be in there. You do not need a full strip down to do that is it quite easy to get to and adjust (although fiddly and time consuming because it only needs a very small adjustment each time. Look here if you haven't already done so to see how to adjust. heq5-rebuild It's basically this section: Steve
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