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About teoria_del_big_bang

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Apart from Astronomy 3D Printing, Model Railways, Real Railways.
  • Location
    Skipton, North Yorkshire
  1. Jim, I will put it on when I get a bit of time to spare if anyone needs the stl its attached . Steve 200 PDS split V2 - Part 1.stl 200 PDS split V2 - Part 2.stl
  2. Pixinsight gets my vote anyday. Initially I was put off by the price and because it takes a bit of getting into (most people say it has a steep learning curve, I am not sure I agree, it has a different approach to all other programs and so is a bit strange but once you pick it up it really is great software and well worth the price). You can get a months free trial which may not be enough to get how it all works but if you tell them they will extend the trial period. I certainly would give the trial a go and ask for more if you still not sure but be prepared to give it a fair trial. There is so much help with tutorials on line and some really good books to help. Steve
  3. Recently I was asked by a friend to print a couple of Bahtinov masks the biggest of which was for a 200P-DS , meaning an O.D. of about 250 mm. Without thinking I said I could do it, there are plenty of generators to make any size mask you require and provide a STL file. But it was only after creating the STL and trying to slice it I realise my bed was not square and at 250 x 210 mm meant I could not print in one section. Oh Bother ! (or words to that effect) were uttered. Thingiverse did provide what looked a great program that meant you could print in 4 sections. But I printed a half size mock up and the joins were very weak and really was useless. So I set out to design a 2 piece design that hopefully would just clip together and cam up with this: After 3 failed prints due to layer shifts, and some adjustments of parameters to reduce the print speed and acceleration have managed to print both halves and whilst not perfect I am pretty pleased with it and it should work fine. The centre and face where the two halves meets holds together really well and is sturdy. The outside diameter does move a bit although will work fine. A couple of dabs of super glue would hold it really rigidly. My other option if I make another one would be to thicken the outsides so they are a bit stiffer, or maybe print in PLA as this one I printed in PETG. Sorry for the long drawn out description just thought I would share with anyone interested in 3D printing. Steve
  4. Sorry to bother you @mAnKiNd but I want to print this. The only question I have is that I have downloaded the STL file and checked the inside diameter and it is actually 121.5 mm not 125 mm as you mentioned. Can you just confirm is this correct at 121.5 mm ? Steve
  5. Partly cloudy or mostly cloudy ???
  6. I am no guru but if I can think of a reason I will let you know. What is the motor it is driving? Are you using the microsteping now or full step? Maybe start with fullstep to check the direction works ??? Steve
  7. Many thanks for that and I suspected the angle change would not affect the usefulness of it. Are those washers in the bottom of the two holes or some form of insert? Sorry to be a real pain but any chance of getting the dimensions of the two holes then will include them in the stl. 50% infil should be fine if the holes are printed in it rather than drilled. Steve
  8. I can print this for you for cost of postage and replacement of filament, If I do it I will pm you about the actual cost but it will not be much. One thing I am not too sure about is that if I just make the height and length 200% then the angle will actually be wrong. Yes it will still work but would it be better with the correct angle . Also the item on Thingiverse has a stop on it whereas the ones in @johninderby post doesn't look to have this stop (shown ringed in red. So I guess the questions are do you want to maintain the correct angle ? I can still make it 2X the height and 2X the length (or whatever height and length is ideal). Also do you want the stop as shown above. And lastly is one through hole enough or would 2 or 3 be better (and if so does the hole spacing matter?) Steve
  9. I guess it will be heading our way soon Steve
  10. What equipment do you already have ? Many start with a standard DSLR for their first images and many use them permanently. Its a relatively cheap way of getting into AP, the sensors are a lot bigger than you will get with a cheapish Astro camera and you can get some excellent images of many DSO's. Planetary imaging and DSO's ideally require different cameras and scope combinations (as I said ideally) so if not much experience it may be easier for you to start on either DSO's or planetary imaging. Personally I think starting out trying to do both is difficult and will not be helped if you want to keep the budget from spiraling out of control. If you add some more info on what you already own or intend to buy (mount, scope(s) etc) then many who have much more experience and knowedge than myself will give you lots of great advice. Steve
  11. Great idea and I am glad your perseverance and initiative thinking has paid off. Now just enjoy it And a really good story and write up. Steve
  12. Thanks for the update pictures. That is looking absolutely superb. And in no way am I jealous, not one bit, honest No, honestly you have done a marvelous job and so far looked to have thought of everything in advance (well pretty much everything apart from the ducting) , a really professional looking obsy you have,. I wonder how much rain and clouds you are due now when that is complete ? I hope not too much. Steve
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