Dr_Ju_ju

Anything that pushes useless products and services (Advertising etc.)...

So you want to get more marketing shoved down your throat ?? Personally I wouldn't worry about it & forget the whole upgrade procedure, especially as I'm not going to be forced into upgrading the hardware to accommodate the win11 update, so I'll just stick to Win10/Server2019 which do all I require, and for a lot of newer things I'm using a lot more Linux based systems....

Do you have/access to any counter-weights, as they usually come in 5-25 Kg ranges....

Well Done !! looking forward to the completion, and making me sorely tempted to go for the next class up.....

In answer to your question, yes the mount will happily run without the hand controller connected, e.g. most people running imaging systems, where everything is remotely computer controlled, would never have the controller connected.... Normally power is fed directly to the mount, and not via the handset controller... What happens when you feed your power supply directly to the mount, does it power up ?? and what power supply are you using ?

What controller is being used to drive the motors ?? but my initial thought is that the power supply isn't up to the job....

One question I have, does it have to be Windows, or could you go Linux etc.? If so them that opens up a grater range from Raspberry Pi's (5), to Pine64 Rock64Pro etc. which give you a lot of bang for your pennies....

a few quick questions... 1st off, if you just print the original stl model file, does it fit ok ?, 2nd what software are you using to 'form' the full model file ?, and 3rd what slicer are you using ?? I have to admit that I don't use resin printing, so can only offer general suggestions, but personally I would design the complete adaptor in OpenScad and then print the resultant object.

To me, it looks like auto-gain has kicked in, so raising the base noise floor ??

Personally, I'd drop the 14v down to 12v using either a regulator (7812), but the 2v difference may be problematical (they work better with a 3v difference), or even a simple resistance/12v zenner/capacitor combo....

Have look through this little lot, where I've also added the scad files etc.. https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/416643-printable-custom-adapters-for-m48-to-m42/

If you want better accuracy, then I suggest that you use OpenScad to do your modelling (https://openscad.org/) e.g. nuts_and_bolts_v1.95.scad which can be easily modified to fit your needs....

It's on Ubuntu Mate, latest LTS release, but I've removed most of the added junk including Snap, Firefox, Thunderbird, Libre Office etc. and have installed less clunky versions of app. like Firefox-esr....

I personally don't like the Debian build, so have done some frigging around to get a standard Ubuntu Mate build (22.04 Jammy) up & running but with the removal of all the snap junk etc... Having said that, I've installed Indi\Kstars, PHD2, Skychart, Stellarium, and all working as expected, but the weather hasn't been kind enough for me to try things out in anger.... One big gripe, for me, is the removal of the audio output connector, but keeping the second video output, which I've never used, even on the Pi4......

Is this one of Robert Brown's designs ??, if so it would be better asking Robert directly on Source Forge (https://sourceforge.net/u/brownrb/profile/)

As long as you are running Win10/11, versions greater than home, and I've not tried it, but it may be possible using "Virtual Desktops".....

While rummaging around looking for adapters to mount a ZWO_ASI_533MC camera to a SW ED80 comma corrector, and even buying some some from the wonderful FLO, all appear to work ok, but the "standard" 27.5mm spacer, comprised of the supplied (camera) M42 adapter and a 16.5mm M48/M42 adapter, put the imaging sensor much closer in to the corrector, as compared to my ZWO_ASI_1600 setup, which puts the Imaging sensor, much further back, after taking into account the OAG & Filter Wheel, and same comma corrector etc., I was wondering If I could make some custom sized adapters to test, and find the optimal adapter length. It doesn't help much, when SW, think that the only type of camera that will be attached, to the corrector, will be a DSLR.... All the 'standard ' adapters, seem to come as a tube with an internal thread at one end, and an external screw thread at the other, but as both the comma corrector and the camera have external screw connections. M48 / M42 respectively, I was looking for a single piece adapter, tube with internal threads at both ends, which don't seem to be available anywhere.... So this got me thinking about printing a range of suitable adapters, soooo .... After searching around, and trying some of the 'customisable' generic Bolt\Nut examples, to be found on Thingiverse etc. I found them ok with the 'standard' sizes of M2-M6 etc., which use a pitch size of 0.455mm, as soon as the pitch size is changed to 0.75mm (Astro spec), they failed..... But then I came across an OpenScad (https://openscad.org/) library on YouMagine (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/openscad-metric-nut-bolt-threads-library), which worked ok after modifying, creating model files, slicing, printing etc..... So if you want to have a play for yourself, I humbly offer the following (heavily modified) scad files with examples etc. Now, if only there were some clear skies.... M48-M42_12mm_Adapter.scadM48-M42_27.5mm_Adapter.stlM48-M42_27.5mm_Adapter.scadM48-M42_20mm_Adapter.stlM48-M42_15mm_Adapter.stlM48-M42_12mm_Adapter.stl

That's one of the problems with silicon drives, they just fail with no warning unlike spinning rust, which usually give you some warning..... I don't save anything locally, on the imaging computers, but directly on a pair of Synology, network attached storage devices which mirror each other.

Yep, its just greed (it costs soooo much to have their brand name plastered all over it, especially for a common Chines made product....) bearing that in mind, have a look around (eBay\Amazon et al) for a supply that provides the voltage\current\connector(s) for your locale, and you should be ok.

It's not reverse polarity, but a very simple mechanical switch that guarantees the outer '0v' connection, prior to inner +Ve connection as the plug is engaged..

A very silly question, and very late in the day, (and I don't have one of your mounts), but does the original power socket have an internal switching mechanism, that ensures no power can 'flow' till everything is firmly seated ???

Sorry to say it, but soldering cables direct to the PCB, WILL, over time and temperature differentials, lift the track from the PCB and break connections.....

Personally, I'd attach a TY-Rap base (glue/sticky pad) adjacent to the input socket, then using a velcro ty-rap, secure the cable to the pad, leaving a small loop, so that nothing gets tangled....

what OS is the PC running, and has it had any of the recent updates, especially for .Net ??

Personally, I'd go for a Noctua fan, which are very quiet, low vibration, if sometimes are more pricey... (https://noctua.at/en/products/fan)