Dr_Ju_ju

It would work, but it's very inefficient, and depending on your current draw, would require some beefy heatsinks. It's probably better to use buck converters, which properly specc'd will be better and more efficient and don't require heatsinks, especially for the 7.4v, which I take is for a DSLR camera ? e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Step-Down-Converter-5-36V-to-1-25-32V-5A-Buck-Voltage-Regulator-UK/153809946953 & https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LM2596S-DC-DC-Buck-Converter-Adjustable-Power-Supply-Step-Down-Module-5V-12V-24V/254234341174 (for camera)

I wanted something cheap & simple, with a minimum cost outlay, till I worked out what I wanted for a better system with additional weather data etc., so I bought one of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32550636905.html, using the free software iSpy https://www.ispyconnect.com/, which has worked out well reasonably well....

More software updates, for you to download & install.... https://github.com/ASCOMInitiative/ASCOMPlatform/releases

before doing anything else, ask Flo, as I'm sure they will sort things out....

Have you set the Port\Baud settings to be the same as the old cable ?

As far as I can tell, you have to FTP download from here http://cdsarc.u-strasbg.fr/viz-bin/Cat?VII/20 but here is the catalog data file (catalog.datsimple text)

There will be differences between two, supposedly identical monitors, so before changing the driver configuration, you need to first ensure that the monitors are configured correctly i.e. brightness\contrast\colours etc. I used to have to go through this procedure, when buying\installing grade one monitors for the BBC, especially for graphics suites, when there would be 20-30 monitors, which all had to look exactly the same....

Have you installed the latest drivers (chipset & manufacturers) for your graphics card ?

Then I'd contact them to see if they support your hardware ??

Yes, but you must use Colour Management from the old control panel, it will even allow you to calibrate printers etc....

A good starting point would be to go to the advanced tab, then calibrate display.

You need to use the old control panel (small icons), where you will then find "Colour Management", i.e.

I doubt very much that a Windows 10 update would have done what you are implying, even the update to ver. 2004, as by default all updates do not modify any installed user apps, and the process automatically backs everything up, including user setting etc., that's the main reason why so much free, contiguous disk space is required....

Nice & pricey.... I was contemplating getting an Argent Data Systems Wind Rain sensor (https://www.argentdata.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=145) as recommended by the raspberry Pi mob https://projects.raspberrypi.org/en/projects/build-your-own-weather-station It would take the hassle out of the more difficult sensors and be able to run everything on a Pi

You will always have problems when you try and extend USB signal leads, no matter if you use powered extenders etc. even using good quality hubs (StarTech) and leads (Chromo), over longer distances, the USB signals will auto compensate usually by slowing everything down....

Flock the inside ?

None of them, if you want reliable operation, with less headaches, the best solution is to site a computer adjacent to the mount\scope, thereby using short USB cables. You can then control the computer remotely, using WiFi (not my prefered solution) or gigabit ethernet. It doesn't have to be a very powerful computer, it just need to be able to run your preferred control\acquisition software, you can even save images remotely to your 'inside' computer.

Before doing anything to the camera, ask FLO, as it's so 'new', I'm sure they will sort things out....

Fried boards, especially where components are wrapped around the output drive stages, are usually caused either in a component failure, or the motor is 'stalled\frozen' so the drive currents are being forced into a resistor not a coil....

How we perceive loudness, often depends on the environment that is in, e.g. reflective surfaces, our approximation to the source of the sound, any extraneous noises, if you are being sensitive to noises etc. As you say, unless you will always be slewing around, then the mount is effectively silent during operation, therefore, as a test, slew the mount when you are at different distances away, to get an idea of the nuisance volume.. You may then find that being a number of metres away from the mount makes the slewing sound more tolerable....

unless you want to remotely control it, I'd suggest getting something to one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-DC-12V-24V-8A-Dimmer-Switch-Brightness-Controller-for-LED-Strip-Light-Bulb/183319715929 which you can then adjust to the right temperature. I admit that I use these, repackaged to duals, with multiple outputs for my heaters\fans etc....

Nope, transformer supplies can go high voltage (failure in transformer), and linear supplies have their own suite of problems (weight being the least of them), and must also be designed & built to high standards..... For out in the field\star parties, I use a linear bench power supply 0-30v \ 10A, that used to be sold by Maplins (now defunct) at very reasonable cost.

A couple of reputable brands Meanwell, TDK-Lambda, PowerPax, Omron, Yuasa ..... and there are loads more a good\reputable suppliers would include the likes of RS-Components, Farnell etc... this is a link to one that Farnell sell, note that its designed for medical usage, therefore MUST comply with all safety specs (sorry about length of link)... https://uk.farnell.com/mascot/2026-9726-12v/power-supply-ac-dc-medical-13/dp/1183935?pf=113225634&st=12v+power+supply&krypto=WblLZvI1hmq24vQ%2Fc1ALh2i9PrTCuEWkeTd%2BaNArEcjhNKWVBZDPJFN70u78oEfNmasxcyaqeZK6lpR%2FN5UDJ3bJtRAzs0MYSghs5xP2kCQcJ%2BN%2BzL89ijYqdDiI3X63ZD1JJQbqm4SKQrEB6OJkkxmHqIjce9gCS0J0T07Kqcq4Iv9M2DvDtJpNvHn7RMtUjNgd%2FGiemK%2BEu2cyPufIm6LOsqIKfdNItq6UThUn3hLcsoysPmWdNzw8KW5uGhVqwAB1KFTTcVUtXUYnDElRrV3hP9v%2BM1MirIoZzwN15iTzfyFRxtksKWg3exO%2BfpTjCl45hNyoLJcQ8REAdvvE%2F1WBtvVKagiHTfn3%2BZs0oz15Vzp5ohRf8qSIi37y3vUEu3nUVm09rx7kuP6KnE%2BIxxBXFWN6KloYtve6ee5p5w4mwy4bwtg0yNqRYf%2BciVY5ildhktZ3Q04tlWMdQ74b1v%2Bz1PZqNOcF4gbBNHVSoD25WGQ2q8aBdbrWZEIN6w5G7dhzR4ZBxLF3ayVUeFHCZww5AMP%2FRs9ibeXKNQBHLEDZMCkssrpgGfxvuu82QXmdLD0Y4Brq8zYlcJgN0fekqojVCqIvRr%2F%2BLD83LRcng80%2FWmDISx4ZTs3SSQD8YpKgddHlCSTz17CO8nRb1I6Lo1Gq2n7nZJYVA413bVYqWKs4vPXMjapDRjz6vIdHsUzC4hA1T%2FkB6DjFi%2FSGDomLK0MlicEjRJcXGj9gotF4QyedKO94o5l6WZhWgzFFdYcTkyeCJLau7x1uSgxxFSsri5XX7Y0t3uDhs5TJwIFLR6mRNHHvF2yx5Nvkon%2BE4Ru8zZGagWhQEBkU157m3hwTGhdSrGppJK2p6dK6MJy1SgtKM6m8GcXpLfskIzhZBnM8nn7D5W3aPEPQNfCYOPxPESRoiLXsZIrAPwmHbueesUXv5cRFmHAKDQ3mzH%2B5WKcEyyH6ERDa%2Bp%2BVVlkbYPCTmQ%3D%3D

For Star Parties etc. I take some off cuts of decking board, cut into squares & drill a central indent for the tripod spikes...

With power supplies, the old adage "You get what you pay for" holds very true. If you want peace of mind, then buy a respectable brand, good quality supply, with the safety features built in and not just given lip service too, but it won't be cheap....