Imaging with the 130pds

[Nicola Hannah Butterfield]

2 minutes ago, Human1234 said:

Thank you so much for the help! Is this the only thing I need?

Well I started with a 200P same focuser, you have the PDS, more photographically inclined, shorter tube so easier for cameras to focus. You should i think have a M42 mount on the focuser, metal ring around the outer part of the focuser, or maybe a 2" adapter with a male thread, if the later most likely, this needs to fit the eos m42 thread, change the 2" m42 to an m48 and eos m48 and you get a wider view with less vignetting

[alacant]

21 hours ago, Human1234 said:

How would I go about connecting my 130pds to a canon dslr?

Hi

Use one of these and one of these.

That gets you connected.  If you're ok with the images, that maybe all you need😉

HTH

Edited December 20, 2022 by alacant

[JimFR]

On 20/12/2022 at 00:07, Human1234 said:

Hi, sorry for asking what I'm sure is a pretty obvious question but I'm completely knew to this hobby. How would I go about connecting my 130pds to a canon dslr? Thanks to anyone that helps.

Just to chip in: the only daft question is the question never asked!

[sagramore]

My first try at this target with my new ASI294MM-Pro and ZWO 7nm narrowband filters. After fighting with the lack of data imaging M33, this was an absolute stunner even with a single 5 minute Ha sub. So bright! I am still learning a lot when it comes to narrowband processing and the clouds came over during my OIII acquisition so things aren't as clean as I hoped (plus, I have a tendency to process while zoomed out and I push things too far, haha).

Still, overall I am pretty pleased with the results. Two versions - the first in HSO and the second in SHO, as this brings out more detail to my eye but it also even crunchier with the noise. I also think I was suffering with some nasty tilt after the meridian flip as my SII and OIII stars are elongated in one direction, whereas the Ha are nice and round. I haven't properly collimated in a while and I haven't yet put a mirror clip mask or used silicone sealant to deal with any possible astigmatism either. I also still have a belt mod for my NEQ6 I haven't had the courage to fit yet, so my guiding was a bit rough, total RMS was about 0.7-0.8" throughout.

Grateful for any constructive criticisms or tips!!

 

Stacked in Siril with Sirilic but RGB composite and processing done in Photoshop using lots of levels, camera RAW filter, and Astronomy Tools v1.6. 

Ha - 14 x 300s = 1h10
SII - 9 x 300s = 0h45
OIII - 4 x 300s - 0h20
TOTAL INTEGRATION - a mere 2h15

130 PDS on NEQ6 with SW 0.9x CC, ZWO EAF and filter wheel
Guided with PHD2 using Startravel 80 and ASI120MC

 

 

Thanks for looking!

Edited December 30, 2022 by sagramore

[edarter]

On 30/12/2022 at 10:34, sagramore said:

My first try at this target with my new ASI294MM-Pro and ZWO 7nm narrowband filters. After fighting with the lack of data imaging M33, this was an absolute stunner even with a single 5 minute Ha sub. So bright! I am still learning a lot when it comes to narrowband processing and the clouds came over during my OIII acquisition so things aren't as clean as I hoped (plus, I have a tendency to process while zoomed out and I push things too far, haha).

Still, overall I am pretty pleased with the results. Two versions - the first in HSO and the second in SHO, as this brings out more detail to my eye but it also even crunchier with the noise. I also think I was suffering with some nasty tilt after the meridian flip as my SII and OIII stars are elongated in one direction, whereas the Ha are nice and round. I haven't properly collimated in a while and I haven't yet put a mirror clip mask or used silicone sealant to deal with any possible astigmatism either. I also still have a belt mod for my NEQ6 I haven't had the courage to fit yet, so my guiding was a bit rough, total RMS was about 0.7-0.8" throughout.

Grateful for any constructive criticisms or tips!!

 

Stacked in Siril with Sirilic but RGB composite and processing done in Photoshop using lots of levels, camera RAW filter, and Astronomy Tools v1.6. 

Ha - 14 x 300s = 1h10
SII - 9 x 300s = 0h45
OIII - 4 x 300s - 0h20
TOTAL INTEGRATION - a mere 2h15

130 PDS on NEQ6 with SW 0.9x CC, ZWO EAF and filter wheel
Guided with PHD2 using Startravel 80 and ASI120MC

 

 

Thanks for looking!

They are really nice - but where are you getting the clear sky from???  I live probably no more than 5 miles from Didcot and have had 1 night of clear skies over this holiday period so far

 

[sagramore]

22 hours ago, edarter said:

They are really nice - but where are you getting the clear sky from???  I live probably no more than 5 miles from Didcot and have had 1 night of clear skies over this holiday period so far

 

Haha, yeah it's been pretty rough! I managed to get some time with gaps in the clouds on a couple of nights though... Looking back at my imaging folders I apparently had the scope out on 15th and 29th, although the 29th (with the horsehead) was definitely cut short by clouds.

[Vuck fox]

I have a NEQ6 mount and a SW 130/650PDS telescope, I want to replace my Canon 550D with a color astrocamera with cooling. Found several models: Altair Hypercam 269C PRO sensor 3/4 and small pixels 3.3 microns; ZWO ASI294MC Pro sensor and pixels almost  like my Canon;Omegon Camera veTEC 16000 C-sensor 3/4 and slightly larger 3.8 micron pixels.Which of these cameras will give better results for shooting DSO?Could I have chosen the wrong one,then please tell me the right model up to 1500€

[8472]

Of the 3, I'd go with the 294.

[edarter]

I managed to grab a couple of nights imaging in November, between all the cloud and rain we seem to be getting in southern UK still. This Pelican Nebula image is the result. Approx 6hrs of EOS600d data stacked in APP and processed in PI. I have used the trials of BlurX and NoiseX on this as well, probably a little too heavily but its enough to give me an idea as to whether I want to spend the money on them. Something going on with my stacking as some of the stars in the corners have trails (rather than my usual CC spacing egg shaped ones) and double diffraction spikes, yet others don't. Very odd but hey ho!

Rough PI process was as follows: Crop, DBE, BN, SPCC, NoiseX, BlurX, Starnet2, GHS (Nebula), Curves (Nebula), GHS (stars), Pixelmath to recombine Nebula and Stars.

JPG format seems to have washed out the colours though

 

Edited January 3, 2023 by edarter
file change

[Bibabutzemann]

Hi,

i did a few imaging sessions on several targets over the last summer and autumn. Only now i started to processing the data (which was a mess, because the flats and lights were all over the place on my drive 😐)

Mid 2022 i switched to the EOS2000D. It has a much cleaner noise than my old 1200D.

My first result is the Eastern Veil Nebula

HEQ5, 130PDS, Baader MPCIII, L-Extreme, EOS2000Da

7 hours of data, Processed with Siril, Photoshop, Starnet

[Bibabutzemann]

On 03/01/2023 at 10:36, Vuck fox said:

I have a NEQ6 mount and a SW 130/650PDS telescope, I want to replace my Canon 550D with a color astrocamera with cooling. Found several models: Altair Hypercam 269C PRO sensor 3/4 and small pixels 3.3 microns; ZWO ASI294MC Pro sensor and pixels almost  like my Canon;Omegon Camera veTEC 16000 C-sensor 3/4 and slightly larger 3.8 micron pixels.Which of these cameras will give better results for shooting DSO?Could I have chosen the wrong one,then please tell me the right model up to 1500€

For 1500€ i would definitely go for a APS-C sized sensor, ideally with the IMX571 Sensor. A used QHY 268C or a new Lacerta 2600C for example.

[edarter]

I've been pondering the relative merits of cutting my focus tube vs trying to move the primary up the OTA by 10-12mm. It ended up with me putting together a 'model' of the 130PDS dimensions on my workbench to see how much light loss there would be if I did move the primary. I thought others may be interested, and obviously if I've made an error here please do point it out!

So what I did was mark out 650mm with 130mm marked at one end to represent the primary and a dot at the other (centred) to represent the focus point. By measuring my PDS I know that the secondary's centre point is at 435mm from the primary so I marked that point and put a post-it note there ready to draw on! Then I drew lines from each end of the 130mm marks to the focus point. Where they intercepted the 435mm line I measured and the distance between them is 43mm. All things being equal this is the diameter of the light plane from the primary at the point where it hits the secondary. I had a go at measuring the dia of my secondary but without removing it from the scope its very difficult. I got it at 48mm, and googling it after I was not far off with it actually being 47mm.

So in summary, for a standard mirror position on the 130PDS:
Light cone dia at the secondary = 43mm
Secondary dia = 47mm

Next bit was to work out by how much the light cone dia would change at the secondary if I moved the primary forward 10mm. Similar post-it modelling showed an increase in dia of 2mm so:

For a 10mm forward primary mirror position on the 130PDS:
Light cone dia at the secondary = 45mm
Secondary dia = 47mm

That still leaves a 1mm gap round the edge. Sounds enough but when you add in that the edges will be slightly rounded etc its probably right on the edge of losing light but probably ok if the secondary is centred accurately. I haven't had my secondary out of the OTA in a while, but would be interested to hear the thoughts of anyone that has as to how crisp the edge of the mirror is.

I feel happier about moving my mirror forward 10mm now knowing this as I did some other 'jungle maths' which had assumed I would immediately lose light by moving the mirror forward and that equated to an 8.5% light loss. Though I'm still not 100% sure as to which route to go to get rid of my pacman stars as I actually need 14mm in total using the Baader CC!

[FrenchyArnaud]

46 minutes ago, edarter said:

I've been pondering the relative merits of cutting my focus tube vs trying to move the primary up

I am a bit puzzled here. Why do you need eithet? the pds are already adapted to get prime focus (shorter tube than the P)

[edarter]

1 hour ago, FrenchyArnaud said:

I am a bit puzzled here. Why do you need eithet? the pds are already adapted to get prime focus (shorter tube than the P)

They are, but that doesn't necessarily mean they are optimised for it. Really, all it means is you are able to achieve focus with a camera fitted. With the most common coma correctors fitted this means the focus tube projects in to the OTA and you get Pacman shaped stars. Its a fairly common mod to cut the focus tube to prevent this but that in itself has its own drawbacks.

[Elp]

If you get a gso coma corrector you don't need to perform this mod, it's the reason I had one when I had this scope.

[Bibabutzemann]

Hi

Since weather in January was too cloudy, i could image the ZTF comet only on 6.2.2023. It was full moon and the comet wasnt as beautiful anymore, but i like the animations. I did one with fixed comet and one with fixed stars. Not sure which i prefer.

Captured with EOS 2000D, 130 PDS, HEQ5 over a time span of 3h10m. Also full moon from same night

 

 

Ugh does anyone know how to make the video size smaller 😄

Edited February 15, 2023 by Bibabutzemann

[Ratlet]

Those are some fantastic animations!

[Whistlin Bob]

Been a busy few weeks for the 130pds.. Firstly, here's a mineral moon- this was 100 shots taken with a Canon 100d stacked in Autostakkert and then saturated enomrously...

The  it was my weapon of choice for the visit of Comet 2022 e3 ZTF, caught here on 14th Feb flying past NGC 1647 (alright- it wasn't, but you know what I mean!!!). This is 2.5 hrs of 1 minute exposures on an SVBony SV405cc:

Finally, here's M78, from the 23rd- this is around 90 minutes of exposures on the SVBony.

 

 

 

[sagramore]

Hey all. Found a gap in the clouds and the effort to get the gear and and try some imaging on the Wizard's Head last night. First try on this target with the 130PDS and the ASI294MM-Pro narrowband.

Turns out I still don't really know what I'm doing with processing narrowband in Photoshop but the first try isn't too bad. I'm tempted to give Pixinsight a go but haven't had the nuts to pull the trigger on the cost of it yet.

1 hour (12 x 300 s) each of SII, Ha, OIII quite close to the horizon (below 27 degrees). Stacked in Siril with Sirilic. Each filter then pre-processed with Photoshop before combining into an SHO image and further Photoshop processing.

Two versions as I also tried my hand at some basic star removal right at the end. Content-aware fill is some kind of magic... I think I prefer the pseudo-starless myself as the stars got pretty blown out by the end of it. I need to investigate using a star mask and putting them back in afterwards.

Thanks for looking!

 

Edited February 27, 2023 by sagramore

[Bibabutzemann]

Galaxy season has started!

M109 + Phecda. Love the dynamic between these two objects.

130PDS+HEQ5+2000D, 4.5h, Bortle 5.

Edit:

Corrected Version, somehow the Photometric color calibration in Siril makes the image too green..

 

Edited February 28, 2023 by Bibabutzemann

[edarter]

On 27/02/2023 at 15:04, sagramore said:

Hey all. Found a gap in the clouds and the effort to get the gear and and try some imaging on the Wizard's Head last night. First try on this target with the 130PDS and the ASI294MM-Pro narrowband.

Turns out I still don't really know what I'm doing with processing narrowband in Photoshop but the first try isn't too bad. I'm tempted to give Pixinsight a go but haven't had the nuts to pull the trigger on the cost of it yet.

1 hour (12 x 300 s) each of SII, Ha, OIII quite close to the horizon (below 27 degrees). Stacked in Siril with Sirilic. Each filter then pre-processed with Photoshop before combining into an SHO image and further Photoshop processing.

Two versions as I also tried my hand at some basic star removal right at the end. Content-aware fill is some kind of magic... I think I prefer the pseudo-starless myself as the stars got pretty blown out by the end of it. I need to investigate using a star mask and putting them back in afterwards.

Thanks for looking!

 

If it helps you make your mind up about PI, I plugged on with photoshop for ages trying to improve my processing skills, keen to avoid the cost of PI at all costs. I'm reasonably technical and can get my head round most principles but for the life of me I didn't seem to make any headway beyond 'yeah its ok' in my mind. I succumbed to trying PI and haven't found it half as difficult as I thought it would be and was very quickly getting similar results to photoshop and I think I'm now well past that point. It's been the single biggest improvement in my processing skill set and results. Of course ymmv, but given there is a months free trial it's worth a look.

Ed

Edited February 28, 2023 by edarter

[Whistlin Bob]

It's that time of year when I find myself going to back to M42 again. It's just too tempting, no matter how much I tell myself to explore the enormous number of fresh targets available, I can't resist the lure...

This is 10 mins of 10s subs for the core, 40 mins of 1 minute RGB subs for the reflection, and then 2 hours of 4nm dual band in 3 minute subs, taken on an SVBony 405cc and blended in Pixinsight.

My 130pds will be having a holiday for a little while now. 5 years of sterling service from the little newt have convinced me to double down: I've invested in a 150 Quattro which I'm  just having my first steps with. When I get time the plan is to mount it as a dual rig with my 130, but that's a little down the track at the moment...

 

[Bibabutzemann]

On 12/03/2023 at 22:37, Whistlin Bob said:

It's that time of year when I find myself going to back to M42 again. It's just too tempting, no matter how much I tell myself to explore the enormous number of fresh targets available, I can't resist the lure...

This is 10 mins of 10s subs for the core, 40 mins of 1 minute RGB subs for the reflection, and then 2 hours of 4nm dual band in 3 minute subs, taken on an SVBony 405cc and blended in Pixinsight.

My 130pds will be having a holiday for a little while now. 5 years of sterling service from the little newt have convinced me to double down: I've invested in a 150 Quattro which I'm  just having my first steps with. When I get time the plan is to mount it as a dual rig with my 130, but that's a little down the track at the moment...

 

nice one. I wonder if its worth doing narrowband on Orion. Maybe depends on the light pollution, but i think orion is bright enough to prioritize RGB over NB. The nebula is partly broadband and very colourful.

 

Here is an image of M90 and few other galaxies. I planned to frame it together with Ceres, but turns out that Stellarium isnt accurate by default (realized during imaging, had to add the latest data via solar system editor)

Luckily, Ceres still moved into my framing. During imaging i also realized that there are two additional asteroids in the image. I expanded the catalogue in Stellarium and could identify them as Chloris (124km) and Tiflis (21km).

 

Also made a gif (had to reduce quality)

 

All three asteroids are part of the asteroid belt. So the brightness of the asteroids roughly correlates with their size.

If you look REALLY closely, you can see something else flying along the asteroid belt

 

(anyone watching The Expanse?)

Edited March 16, 2023 by Bibabutzemann

[Space Oddities]

I just came across this spare part. I have no idea if that would work with the 130P-DS, but if it does, it means that the default focuser can be upgraded to the one sold by Artesky and the Newton adapter.

This focuser from Artesky is sadly only compatible with the 150P-DS and bigger, but not the 130P-DS due to the lack of a notch on the 130P-DS (just above the stickers, on the picture above). Which is a shame, because this focuser is the same as the one found on many refractors (GSO, TS, Altair...), and so much better than the Sky-Watcher one.

I contacted the vendor and asked if they know whether it would work on a 130P-DS. If they don't know, I might go for it anyway and test myself, because I can't stand SW's focuser anymore   That would cost around 300€ in total, which is more than what I paid for the scope, but there's no alternative sadly...

Mise au point, Focus: Platine de fixation pour porte-oculaires avec encoche pour Newton - Sky-Watcher - Astronomie Pierro-Astro'

Edited April 7, 2023 by Space Oddities

[Astro_by_sona]

Hi fellow 130PDS owners, just got back in the hobby after a personal loss. Star test on Vega, do you think I need a primary mirror clip mask?

Appreciate your expert opinions.

 

Clear Skies!