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About edarter

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    Star Forming

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    Oxfordshire, UK
  1. Hi All, Well after 2-3 weeks of constant trial and error, then getting 'Dark Art or Magic Bullet' I've spent a lot of time over Christmas playing with my Andromeda data. Its better (I think) but I'm still not happy with it. I see images on here of other peoples Andromeda with much less data and way more colour. I'll keep experimenting though and see what I can pull out of it. Main differences here are that I calibrated the star colours in APP and then saved the unstretched version ready to edit in photoshop. I then used a mix of procedured in DAOMB and what I've picked up from Trevor Jones and some of the other videos I've seen on Youtube. In fact I've just noticed how different it looks on each of my two monitors! So not sure what it will look like to everyone here. Two identical monitors here but looks a bit over exposed on one of them. Can afford a calibration gizmo so will have to investigate other methods of at least getting it half right between them
  2. Yes you do get protrusion unfortunately. I have exactly the same setup as you and the tube does indeed show when everything is focused. Can't recall offhand how much. However, I've not done anything about it myself as I think I have other priorities to nail down first like getting better at post processing and sorting out the bl&*#y mpcc spacing so the stars are not egg shaped in the corners. Hth
  3. Thank you, I suspected as much but wanted to check. Think I will order the 40cm one and have the overlap. Now wondering if I should go for the 60cm one for the main scope and have an overlap on that as well rather than being 2cm short! Currently building a 3 channel controller as per the Blackwater skies page so far it's turned out way better than I expected but I've got no way of testing it yet lol.
  4. Hi, I'm looking to buy dew bands for my setup (sw 130pds and sw star travel 80 as my guide scope). The circumference of these two scopes measure 52cm and 32cm respectively. FLO seem to have stock of the 50cm lynx astro band but are out of stock of the 30cm band. Would the 40cm band be OK instead (with an overlap) especially as the two diameters seem to be 2cm more than the respective bands anyway! Thanks Ed
  5. Thanks for the tips guys, I spent the evening yesterday experimenting with different things I've seen on YouTube but have to say it didn't get me very far. I shall have a look at the calibrate star colour tool in APP and see what that does. APP stretches the image automatically, though you can turn the stretch off when you save. Would I be better saving a non stretched version and working on that in photoshop? Cozzy also messaged me with a quick edit he did of my jpg and I'm blown away by it, so much better than my effort here. Its spurred me on to try and nail the processing better because its shown there is indeed way more data to be had out of this image! Thanks again for the advice and encouragement, it's all helping! Ed
  6. Hmm... OK will have a look through the tutorials, thanks. What sort of value should I aim for with the white point? I'm assuming it should be less than 255 then?
  7. Would I do that with a levels adjustment applied to the whole image? And does that not affect the curves? Sorry for the basic questions!
  8. Thank you Yeah, struggling with colour balance. The curves seem aligned in photoshop but I think it's a bit too red. Is it a case of just eyeballing it and ignoring where the curves are?
  9. Taken over 5 nights a few weeks ago, I managed to grab about 8hrs on Andromeda. By far the most data I have collected so far on any target. The best 6.5hrs of that data stacked and initial processing in APP then finished off in Photoshop. I'm convinced there is a lot more data hiding in there somewhere but as I'm only in the foothills of the mountain that is Photoshop processing this will do for now
  10. Had exactly the same process a few months ago, was scared of trying platesolving as it seemed rather complicated to set up. Once I bit the bullet and gave it a go it was a revelation! That coupled with being able to save a sequence in NINA makes going to a previous target to collect more photons stupidly easy. The other thing that has massively improved my setup time is using sharp cap to polar align. I can now literally decide to have a night imaging and be set up and running in about 20 minutes, with my polar alignment rated as 'excellent' in sharp cap.
  11. Are you guiding? If so I would also suggest you get sharp cap and polar align using that. Way more accurate than using the polar scope and after a couple of goes it's very quick and easy to do. I get 'excellent' polar alignment as rated by sharp cap every time within 2-3 minutes. Even if not guiding and using a dslr you can still polar align this way, there are tutorials on the Web and drivers for Canon dslrs to do it.
  12. I waited far too long to ditch the handset and start with platesolving. Once you've tried it though you never go back! Lifes too short lol
  13. Hi, I've got a sw130 PDS and use a Canon eos600d with baader mpc mk3 cc and I'm mounting the camera/cc to the focus tube via the usual method of the two lock screws on the focus tube. Is there is a more secure option utilising threaded connections in order to reduce the potential for camera tilt, but while still allowing rotation of the camera and cc for framing? Thanks
  14. Hi, Over the last week or so I've been capturing a 4 panel mozaic of the heart nebula using NINA. I've yet to do any processing of the image sets at all but it's just occurred to me that I'm not sure how you go about blending the overlaps! I'm guessing I treat each of the 4 panels as a different project and stack all images for that panel but without any processing, then when I have all 4 stacks I stitch them together and only then start processing? There is a fair bit of vignetting which my flats should hopefully get rid of most of but I'm suspicious it's all going to turn in to a horrible mess when everything is bought together, any tips gratefully received! Thanks Ed
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