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  1. Thanks for the info, very interesting. What sort of silicone sealant should I look for? Is it the stuff that seals around baths and sinks?
  2. A question on the silicone method for securing the main mirror. Does this not cause issues with collimation? Silicone stays a little 'squishy' once set and surely this allows a small amount of movement of the mirror as the mount rotates?
  3. You could also try different sta king software, I had awful trouble with banding from my 600d (though horizontal, not vertical like yours) when stacking with DSS. At about the same time I made the jump to APP and the banding immediately disappeared. I know you aren't using DSS but the stacking software is something else to consider as a cause.
  4. Thanks both, tbh what sparked this off was seeing the asi1600, filter wheel and filters on the for sale part of this forum. I had pretty much made my mind up that I was going to get an ASI 294MC Pro then saw the above advertised. It set the brain cogs going on mono again but then I had the thought about focus tube intrusion etc. I currently use a baader mk3 CC and a Canon eos 600d. Can't see how adding a fw can do anything other than mean the focus tube needs to go in a bit to compensate, so I'm obviously not understanding part of the setup correctly!
  5. Hi, I've been given a tentative green light by 'the boss' to start looking at dedicated astro cameras. I've very aware of the colour vs mono debate and its a really hard call to make (for me) between the two. I was coming down on the side of colour (asi 294mc Pro) just because of the convenience and the fact it would be cheaper. Something else just occurred to me though and it would be good to understand this before making a final decision. If I were to go with a mono camera I would obviously need a filter wheel. Presumably this adds length to the imaging train though? The reason for my concern is that I use a sw 130pds, an excellent little scope but one that already suffers from the focus tube protruding in to the ota. Would going mono make this protrusion worse? I'm not interested in cutting down focus tubes etc so this could be a major factor in my final decision. Thanks Ed
  6. Are you attaching the dslr directly to the end of the focus tube? (you should be) don't use the extension tube, that's for the eyepiece. The only other thing I can think of is when you put the mirror back in and collimated that it's too far up the threads of the adjusters.
  7. What are you stacking with? I had bad horizontal banding with my eos600 that I tried everything I could think of to eliminate. The shorter the exposure the worse it was/is. 10s exposures for plate solving are still horrid. However, I switched from DSS to APP for stacking and that helped massively, I also now typically take 240s subs since starting guiding which ensures the data is above the background noise of the sensor.
  8. Thanks Vlaiv but I suspect these are PI functions? I don't have that, just APP and PS. Unless I've got the wrong end of the stick
  9. Hi, Looking for advice as to the right order for doing things when you need to merge different exposure lengths into an image. I'm currently working on the great orion nebula and have exposures at 240s and 30s. I've stacked the 240s exposures in APP and in the process of star colour calibration etc. I aim to do the same with the 30s images as well then merge them in ps, using the 30s as a layer to be revealed in the core only. My question is about that part though, do I get the rest of the image finalised first with the 240s subs and then layer in the core at the end (processed separately beforehand), or do I merge them early on and then treat it as one image for the rest of the processing steps? Hope that makes sense! Thanks
  10. Hi All, Well after 2-3 weeks of constant trial and error, then getting 'Dark Art or Magic Bullet' I've spent a lot of time over Christmas playing with my Andromeda data. Its better (I think) but I'm still not happy with it. I see images on here of other peoples Andromeda with much less data and way more colour. I'll keep experimenting though and see what I can pull out of it. Main differences here are that I calibrated the star colours in APP and then saved the unstretched version ready to edit in photoshop. I then used a mix of procedured in DAOMB and what I've picked up from Trevor Jones and some of the other videos I've seen on Youtube. In fact I've just noticed how different it looks on each of my two monitors! So not sure what it will look like to everyone here. Two identical monitors here but looks a bit over exposed on one of them. Can afford a calibration gizmo so will have to investigate other methods of at least getting it half right between them
  11. Yes you do get protrusion unfortunately. I have exactly the same setup as you and the tube does indeed show when everything is focused. Can't recall offhand how much. However, I've not done anything about it myself as I think I have other priorities to nail down first like getting better at post processing and sorting out the bl&*#y mpcc spacing so the stars are not egg shaped in the corners. Hth
  12. Thank you, I suspected as much but wanted to check. Think I will order the 40cm one and have the overlap. Now wondering if I should go for the 60cm one for the main scope and have an overlap on that as well rather than being 2cm short! Currently building a 3 channel controller as per the Blackwater skies page so far it's turned out way better than I expected but I've got no way of testing it yet lol.
  13. Hi, I'm looking to buy dew bands for my setup (sw 130pds and sw star travel 80 as my guide scope). The circumference of these two scopes measure 52cm and 32cm respectively. FLO seem to have stock of the 50cm lynx astro band but are out of stock of the 30cm band. Would the 40cm band be OK instead (with an overlap) especially as the two diameters seem to be 2cm more than the respective bands anyway! Thanks Ed
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