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About edarter

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    Star Forming

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    Oxfordshire, UK
  1. Tbh it's an estimate using a spirit level app on my phone and looking west from the approximate height I would have a pier set to. To the North, south and east I could get lower other than where the trees are to the north west.
  2. Hi, Well after many discussions with the better half about a self build observatory I've decided that before a final decision is made I really need to cost it all out and settle on a location in the garden. If it wasnt for out neighbours Leilandii trees I would have an ideal spot, but the trees massively restrict the view to the north west. With little / no chance of the trees going any time soon I'm looking at other locations, all of which come with compromises. The biggest of which is obstructed views down towards the horizon. In practical terms though, how low to the horizon do you guys image before atmospherics etc start to make too big an impact? In my 'plan B' spot I reckon I'm OK down to about 25 degrees off the horizon. Thanks Ed
  3. Can I ask, how is the Puck secured to the pier?
  4. Using a ASI 120MM mini with a sw st80 as my guiding setup without issues on my sw130pds and Canon 600d.
  5. OK, thanks for the replies, sounds like I would be better off with the lens!
  6. Hi, I have a Canon 100-400 mk1 that I use for general photography and a SW ST80 which I use as my guide scope on my main rig. I'm wondering if there is any point in using the ST80 as a travel scope attached to my star adventurer pro for holidays when it seems very similarly spec'd to the Canon lens which I could also mount on the SAP. Either would be used with my dslr, though I would have the option of also using my ZWO 120 MM Mini with the scope I guess.... Thoughts and advice welcome! Thanks
  7. ok, going the other way then... if I were to stick with the mono camera, but wanted to do colour imaging while on holiday would I need filters like these in order to do that? https://www.firstlightoptics.com/rgb-filters-filter-sets/baader-rgb-filter-set-with-ir-cut.html
  8. Is that 4 seconds for drift alignment for for guiding in general? i'm interested as its this camera specifically that I'm considering!
  9. Hi, I've just ordered the following bundle from FLO: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/guide-cameras/guide-scope-bundle-suitable-for-piggy-backing.html Which comes with the ASI 120 MM Mini guide camera. However, I'm sort of wondering if I should ask whether I can upgrade the camera to the slightly more expensive ASI 120 MC-S colour camera: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi120mc-s-usb-3-colour-camera.html I know there is likely to be more resolution in the mono camera but I'm planning on using the whole guidescope setup as a lightweight 'grab and go' solution in its own right for holidays etc combined with my Star Adventurer Pro, so a colour camera would have some advantages. Would the mono camera be that much better guiding that I should stick with that or is the upgrade (if FLO are prepared to do it) worth it given my other intended use for the kit? I've not investigated whether there are filters for the mono camera which would give me the option of doing colour either, is that another route to consider?? Thanks Ed
  10. Ah thank you. Its a fair point and to be honest I have been working on the post processing etc and been quite happy with what I've been doing given so little experience with photoshop. I should use an eyepiece more often though! At least the stars look round at that point lol! Ed
  11. Thanks for the encouragement Miguel. Its a single unprocessed frame with an astronomic CLS clip in filter fitted so the star colours would get corrected with proper processing. The shapes though, not so sure. Even when I've stacked images before I've had egg shaped stars. I just expected it to be better to be honest, especially when I see some of the images with similar equipment on the 'imaging with the 130PDS' thread on here.
  12. Mount is probably 6-7 years old. Not used much at all until this year though. Balance wise I thought it was good to be honest. I did specifically check it last night knowing I was going to go for longer subs. Could the power supply be a factor? Until last night I had a 13.8v 3.3a supply but during my last session it started to play up so I swapped it out for a 12v 3a laptop type supply. Seemed to be OK but I did wonder if the lack of voltage headroom might cause an issue. Though having said that the star shape issue has always been there so I guess that rules out that theory. Thanks Ed
  13. Hi, I've always suffered with elongated stars in my images, sometimes worse, sometimes not too bad at all. Its meant that I've very rarely managed more than 60 second exposures with my DSLR, with 75secs on a really good day. I've always put it down to only doing PA by eye despite taking my time to get it as good as I can, and maybe not quite having the Baader MPC not quite spot on spacing wise. Well today I decided to set up sharpcap pro as I found a topic on another forum describing how to get it working for PA with a DSLR. I was very surprised when it actually worked first time... and worked very well indeed. I can't remember the exact figure but Sharpcap rated it as excellent. I think it was 16secs out? Anyway, as a test I thought I would take a 60 second exposure of M61, fully expecting it to look ok and be able to push for hopefully 90secs or even 2 minutes. I was majorly disappointed when the image looked no better than when I've PA'd by eye. In fact I would say its possibly worse! Can you cast your collective eye over the image below and tell me what you think the problem may be? Is it tracking, PA, CC spacing..or even a combo of those! I've also noticed that the brighter stars seem to have a 'pizza slice' taken out of them, would that be the focus tube on the 130PDS protruding in to the OTA? I'm feeling quite fed up about all this because its really starting to detract from my enjoyment of the hobby now, I thought a good PA would take me up a step but clearly not Equipment is 130PDS, NEQ6 Pro, EOS600D, Baader MPC mk3. Unguided but mount and imaging controlled from NINA. And as of tonight PA done in Sharpcap Pro. Thanks Ed
  14. Thanks everyone, I'm going to continue with APP and see where I get to. I think my processing will improve with practice! Already learnt a couple of new things since doing this so may have to revisit it again to see what I can do.
  15. Hi, In an attempt to see how I can tame the horizontal banding I'm getting with my Canon 600D I've decided to give the free trial of APP a go, mainly for stacking but also for processing (would love to try PI but really can't afford it at the moment so not an option currently). With the same data I've had a go at the Pinwheel galaxy. Which image looks best? What I have found out so far is that a) APP takes forever to stack images! what was 10 minutes in DSS took 2-3 hours in APP) and b) I need to learn fast how to use APP most effectively within the free trial period in order to make my mind up about it!. What is the general concensus on stacking within APP compared to DSS? DSS & Photoshop image: APP with minor PS tweaks image: I think the APP image has a bit more detail albeit at the cost of some noise, I can't seem to find anything on noise suppression in APP... I may have also overdone the magenta in the APP one but thats easily corrected going forward. Thanks Ed
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