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Elp

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Elp last won the day on December 19 2023

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  1. It helps to use a tripod mounted camera to do this as it won't move around like your head or eyes will.
  2. Do you assemble and disassemble each time? I think that's why mine are this way even if they're cleaned afterward. But even my daytime camera bodies rarely get anything on the sensor, it's always on the optics and filters too.
  3. If you wear glasses forget the TV plossls. I had a range of them, although optically good, FOV is restrictive (if you've used UWA) and obviously couldn't use them with glasses on barring the 32mm, which is the only one I've got left. I did have a budget eyepiece once which was optically around 80-90pc of one of the TVs around 60pc of the centre FOV but sold it off, it was an Orbinar 20mm SWA 70 degree I think.
  4. If you're going to go around 12 inch newt you might as well dobsonian mount it unless you already have a mount that can handle it, and it better be in a observatory as any slight wind will cause the whole setup to vibrate, larger scopes larger issue.
  5. If you take flats and calibrate your images it'll disappear from the image in most cases.
  6. I wouldn't rule it out that it isn't on the external glasses or within the lens. A bulb blower usually works, hold said item upside down so any debris can fall out. More often than not in my experience such things are on other things rather than the sensor (filters, optics etc).
  7. Also possibly go to an astro society meet or star party and make your own decision based on what's available there.
  8. As mentioned in your other thread rolling back the firmware on the air is useless unless you also have an older version of the app because the latest firmware is contained within the app version at the time. If you roll back the firmware on the air but continue to use the same latest app version, once you connect to the air you'll be forced to update the firmware, there is no opt out option (opt out option is only for updating the app when you start it). This is why I recommend people to download the app containers/installers independently from any app store, you can keep them safely stored on a computer somewhere and refer to them if you ever need an earlier app version which doesn't contain a firmware update. It is why I continue to use v1.9 beta of the app to control all my airs so they don't update.
  9. That's the same as focus assist then, I never did it with the 600d as live view didn't work on my camera.
  10. Instead of downloading the update, download the app directly from zwos website. At least this way you can kind of control your rollbacks in case you get issues, because currently once an update comes out, zwo remove that prior version for download.
  11. This is impressive for the short amount of time. What do you use for NR?
  12. I think it's still marginally more accessible for visual users, but yes for imaging it's becoming less and less viable.
  13. Even if using mono for RGB it's faster than OSC as you're utilising all pixels, not one in four or two in four. You'll be able to image though LP in narrowband and generally have more flexibility how and what you image. You could add in a reducer if you wish to saturate your sensor pixels quicker.
  14. I don't know if there is a better method than using a software focus routine, the only issue I had was the slight delay from the dslr taking the image to it transferring and the result being seen on the asiair. With the 600d I normally just took a photo then immediately viewed it on camera and zoomed in. It doesn't take long to find focus, I've done it like this many times. Can't remember whether it had a focus assist mode, most modern cameras do which helps with this task. If you can't see bahtinov spikes as mentioned the star isn't bright enough, also try doing an extended exposure to saturate the pixels on the sensor, you might still need to zoom into the image which is why I found a bahtinov pointless as per the method above just taking images and looking at the size of the stars by eye. From experience you know what good focus looks like as tiny stars start to appear in the shot.
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