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Elp

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  1. For anyone who might experience plate solving and goto slew syncs being off progressively worse on each iteration of solve using an Asiair and azgti, though it wasn't part of my routine originally as I thought polar alignment would set the azgti orientation together with the location lat long info I did this to sort my initial issue: 1. Make sure the telescope and mount is in the home position (counterweight pointing down, telescope pointing up toward Polaris) before switching on the electrics. 2. Do the polar alignment routine. 3. Once polar alignment is complete (telescope should still be around the 60 Deg rotated in RA), under telescope tab press the goto home position (this action is what I didn't do previously and the following). 4. If correct the telescope should slew back to the home position 0 degrees. 5. If you find it's rotating to another RA stop it and manually unlock the clutches and rotate back to home position. 6. Lock the clutches again and press the goto home button again, if it's right it shouldn't move, or very little. 7. From the home position goto your target. 8. Whenever you start a new target it's recommended to slew back to the home position before slewing to the new target, at least this way you can roughly physically check the alignment is still accurate. Further point to the above, as you may have made physical adjustments always good to recheck your polar alignment before commencing imaging.
  2. That's what I was thinking but I cant see anywhere on the asiair to edit/modify like you can in ekos. It needs a utility like in EKOS where it shows you where it thinks it is, would make it easier to understand what it's doing.
  3. @AstroNebulee the past half dozen times or so I've used it properly it's worked fine, usually plate solves and slews 1 or 2 times until the target is centred. The only thing I changed last time was I was using my dslr as the main camera. I'll try again with my zwo and see if it still happens. 1. Power the asiair pro with a Celestron lithium LT, and everything else powered by the asiair. Dew heater bands I power with a separate usb power bank. 2. PA was fine less than 10 arc sec. 3. Lynx astro eqdir cable. 4. Haven't messed with the firmware on the asiair yet as it was working prior to the last session.
  4. Has anyone experienced controlling EQ mode via asiair and goto function being completely wrong? Frustrating last night as took previews, plate solved, synced to mount and then goto goes near the target, then slightly away, then slightly away again, then away a lot on its way to pointing toward the ground. Kept happening over and over no matter the target even if I manually slewed near to the target before plate solving. Hasn't happened like this before, it's usually quite good. Thoughts?
  5. Yes Pete thanks, already downloaded it last year, since then I have modelled my own version and printed it. Can't really experiment more until the sun rises higher during the clear days.
  6. Nice. Widefield puts things into perspective doesn't it?
  7. Here's mine IC434 (Horsehead), NGC2024 (Flame) and barely (NGC2023), guess it comes under (3)? Usually put the info on the photos as per my Flickr account but I felt it was time for the image to take centre stage as I haven't been doing this long. Not brilliant by all accounts but it was my first time using my 183mm camera on 5th January after more than a month of cloudy skies so seeing what it was capable of, and just managed to get autoguiding working on this wonderful little mount that could. Always wanted to do the Orion targets with it, this time of the year however the constellation is fairly low in altitude and running around the south it becomes blocked by a roof as well as the constellation Orion rotating slowly as the night progresses so the angle is not ideal. I managed to take this photo in time after planning around doing another target once it reappeared into view, quickly had to remove filters, refocus, and manually plan as it couldn't plate solve. Stack of 4 or so mono images 60 seconds exposures autoguided prior to it disappearing for the night. Post processed manually in PS, masked, blurred, gradients added, cropped. AZGTI > WO Z61 > ZWO 183MM Pro.
  8. Tbh most of what I know I've learned on the way through life having always been interested in tech and computers, most of AP I've learned from other people be it YouTube (Trevor Jones Astrobackyard/Cuiv the lazy geek/Dylan Star Stuff) or forums such as here CN's etc, though you also learn more via actually trying it out for yourself. Only really started imaging AP seriously recently so still learning. Don't know much regarding books, Turn Left at Orion comes recommended but i believe that's for learning the sky. From the imaging side you may take in a lot by learning about Photoshop processing techniques and general photography workflows. Hope that helps a bit.
  9. Totally understand, as mentioned I am speaking from experience and did exactly the same process, why should I spend more for the WO one I thought? So I bought a SW one first. I'm not doubting the SW wedge can do the job, it's whether the individual is willing to put up with the exercise in frustration in trying to nail the polar alignment, the WO makes is so much easier, quicker and hassle free. It's not perfect as clamping up the altitude and azimuth exhibits similar problems but to a much lesser degree to the one you get with the SW one, the benefit in the WO one is the fine micro adjustments you can make as most people who have used them attest to. You can also find them cheaper used like I did if they do pop up for sale.
  10. I think reading up on bits, bytes, binary etc will make for some interesting reading for you . Really you don't need to understand it in great detail, I don't myself. In essence the higher the bit depth the greater range of colour/shades can be captured/displayed/defined. Generally yes, capture at 16 bit, you can always change down to 8 bit when post processing.
  11. I was in the same boat. Trust me, just get the WO wedge.
  12. I know, it's overprocessed. It's red because the green and blue didn't contain much data hence red swamps the image and without its brightness the details were dim. Need more data but I have another issue where the target disappears behind a roof after around 11 so I'm limited in what I can get. Might try my dslr for comparison as always interested in swapping things over.
  13. You're not using the play store version are you? I ask as for me that one doesn't even load and I had to install another version Pro 1.19.12.
  14. The 2 is essentially how many binary combinations are there to represent pixel info. Power of 1 gives 2 possible outcomes either a 1 or 0. Higher powers it becomes exponential as to the amount of binary combinations therefore there is more bit depth or range of colours which can be represented. If you look at a comparison chart of white to black represented at different bit depths on a well calibrated monitor you'll visually see minimal banding/difference betweens shades of grey at 8 bit or more. In photography the general consensus is to shoot at a reasonable bit depth so the pixel data is retained and dynamic range is not lost. RGB is generally processed at 8 bit or 16 bit. HDR images at 32 bit but 32 bit processing options in software is usually limited. Fit is an image format which stores detailed pixel data, so detailed you can probably setup your next imaging session based on the data it stores and there isn't really a limit to how much data they can store. Astro cameras tend to have this option by default. A lot of software however cannot open or process fits so you'll need something like Fits Liberator to open and level stretch each image one at a time (it's why I recommend tif because at least you can use Windows default image viewer to scroll through your images). Png is another image format which can save quality files with minimal compression compared to jpg (which is the last format you want to use for astro images, okay for saving for uploading to internet or if you want to keep your files sizes reasonable).
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