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Space Oddities

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About Space Oddities

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    Star Forming

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    Munich, Germany
  1. I believe the back focus depends on the lens or telescope you're using. In that case (Canon lens), it's 44mm
  2. Thank you Steve! Indeed I'm using 2" filters, so I should be fine regarding vignetting
  3. Hello! Before I purchase yet another adapter, I just wanted to check with you guys that my calculations are correct. Basically, I'm trying to attach my Baader UFC filter system to a Canon EF lens (Samyang 135/2 and Canon 200/2.8) and a cooled ASI1600. The lens has a 44mm flange distance. The imaging train I'm putting together to do this: ASI1600 > 6.5mm ZWO's T2 to T2 spacer > 11mm Baader UFC filter slider (M48 to T2) > 16mm TS Optics EOS to M48 adapter > 10mm Which makes a total of 43.5mm. However, since I'm going to use filters, with up to 2mm thickness, I believe I need to take this into account in the optical path. So my question is: from your experience, is 45.5mm close enough to reach infinity focus? Or should I try looking for a smaller camera spacer (9 or 10mm) ? Thanks for you feedback
  4. Indeed! I think it's quite cheap for something that allows you to get rid of infamous Canon adapters!
  5. I've just purchased the Samyang kit from Astrojolo. Lukas was very helpful and even accepted to 3D print a custom plate so I can mount my ASIAIR on the lens. In total, I spent 110€ for the rings, the focuser, the mini guider, a dovetail and a custom plate, shipping included. I will give you my impressions when I receive everything! Also, for anyone interested in the T2 mod for the Samyang lens, Lukas told me he will soon receive some copies from his provider. It is made of CNC aluminium and the price is 33€ (incl. VAT).
  6. Interesting article from a Polish astrophotographer, who seems to be also a talented DIY guy! He sales some very interesting 3D printed accessories for the Samyang, with a very reasonable price I must say https://astrojolo.com/gears/thirty-months-with-samyang-135-f-2/ @Uranium235, check out his custom made T2 adapter!
  7. I'd love to see some test shots as well, if you have time! Edit: just found this post on CN:
  8. I just found this report from Canon Watch from a couple days ago, saying that a Canon EOS Ra is on the way. It's an astro version of the mirrorless camera Canon EOS R, which has the same sensor as the 5D Mk 4.
  9. Indeed! And it's a good complement to the Samyang 135mm and TS Optics 60mm f/6 refractor I also own. There are lots of beginner friendly targets in this range! The ASIAIR is basically a Raspberry Pi, and all images are stored directly on the micro SD card that also hosts the system. It's limited by software to 32 GB however, even if you use a card with a higher capacity. Also, ZWO recommends a certain type of card, apparently other brands might cause problems. The ASI1600 seems to create FITS that weigh around 35 MB each, so you could store about 900 subs. I don't think that's an issue if you offload the card after each night. However, it would be great to have an option to use one of the USB ports as an optional storage destination. I'd rather have the system SD card always plugged in, rather than having to take it out each time. It also has a tendency to fail quite often, so you need to backup the system. I'm not sure how it compares to the Eagle platform, I'm not very familiar with this product. Ultimately I guess they do the same job. It's also close to the Stellarmate, though the latter is much more mature and has more features. But as I said above, I have very limited needs and I like the simplicity of the ZWO
  10. So, it took me some time to find my sweet spot, but I think I got it! I'm really happy with my last session, when I could test both the ASI1600MM and the ASIAIR. I gotta say, the ASIAIR is amazing! For a beginner like me and given the gear I'm using, it's the perfect solution. It gives enough control, in a user friendly interface, and everything is in one place: imaging, guiding, polar alignment, filter wheel, telescope control. I've always found other software, well, not user friendly and sometimes too complex for what I'm doing. Plus, they require a laptop, unlike the ASIAIR that I can control with my phone This makes my setup much more portable and everything fits in a backpack. I'm happy that I chose ZWO's products, because they're directly compatible with the ASIAIR. It's just plug and play, everything just works, without any driver headache or Windows error. With the Sky-Watcher AZ-GTi, I was afraid that it would be complicated to setup and use... But it worked flawlessly! This little mount is really amazing (provided you have a good copy), and is a huge upgrade compared to the Star Adventurer / SkyGuider Pro. The ability to plate solve, well, solves all the problems I had so far. I had to spend a lot of time aiming at the target, but with plate solving and GoTo, it's instantaneous. Icing on the cake, I can now also images targets that are very high in the sky, without breaking my back! Of course, there's always something going wrong... When I wanted to select the aperture of the Canon 200mm, I realized it doesn't have an aperture ring I'm so used to it, I totally forgot. Fortunately, it was set to f/2.8 the last time I used it, and though that's not the optimal aperture, that's definitely better than f/16! And focus isn't perfect, but well, I'll invite Mr Bahtinov next time. So here is my first test a 3 minute sub of NGC7000 in Ha with the setup shown below. Unity gain, -5°C, f/2.8. It's an auto stretch from the software I use, so nothing spectacular. I captures about 1 hour of Ha, and I plan on doing some OIII once the Moon is gone. I'm very happy that most of my astro-frustrations are gone, mostly thanks to the ASIAIR
  11. I have the same issue with a mounting base I bought from them. It's not large enough and therefore, not compatible with some saddles. I only use the Arca-Swiss side now, which kind of defeats the purpose of this base. Pity, because it's pretty well made!
  12. Very nice! I'm particularly impressed by the fact you can see some details in M110, probably some dust lanes as well? The only criticism (if I may...) would be that I find the final image slightly too warm. Andromeda has a lot of blue in the outer parts, that are less visible with this warmer tint
  13. You can try DeepSkyStacker, it is free (but only works on Windows). It's not as advanced as some other software, but to get started it works great, and there are lots of tutorials available on the internet. Usually interesting plugins are only available for Photoshop, not similar software. But that doesn't mean you can't simulate what they do in Affinity, it might just be some additional work! Anyway, to get started, I would say that DeepSkyStacker and any software like Affinity should work just fine Sorry I can't comment on APP, as I've never used it, but it's also used by lots of people. I'm sure someone here can give you some tips!
  14. Just came across this picture of the "Space Cat" on Instagram. Looks like a v2 of the William Optics Red/White Cat, with a different collar and a handle (with funny cat ears!) The specs seems to be the same, as stated by the poster: Edit: I have found a page on Cyclops Optics with additional information and pictures. It seems to be a limited edition, available in pre-order and released (possibly) in October: https://www.cyclopsoptics.com/telescope/william-optics-spacecat-51-limited-edition/
  15. As a beginner myself, and after hours of research, I've found as much people for and against LP filters. Some swear by it, some claim post-processing does a better job. The general consensus seems to be "it depends". It seems that LP filters actually work best under moderately polluted skies, but in heavily polluted cities, the effect is less obvious on a DSLR. Plus, some filters really mess with the white balance, and it's another thing to take care of in post-processing (and it's not the simplest!). My advice: forget about LP filters for now. They definitely aren't magical tools, and there are so many things you need to learn anyway. I would do it step by step, and learn how to process LP first. If you're a Photoshop user, there's a great plugin called GradientXterminator that can help you get rid of the LP gradients Otherwise, I believe software programs such as PixInsight have similar functionalities. Just my 2 cents of course!
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