Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b89429c566825f6ab32bcafbada449c9.jpg

Bibabutzemann

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    110

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

233 Excellent

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Bibabutzemann
    You might have missed my edit of that post. It was just a smudge on the CC
  2. Bibabutzemann
    Anyone have an idea what this asymmetric artefact around bright stars could be? Equipment: 130pds, Baader MPCC, EOS2000D Never seen this before Edit: Nvm, it was some weird smudge on my CC 😅 Sometimes i overthink.. CS
  3. Bibabutzemann
    During Collimation Primary mirror, secondary mirror and focuser getting alligned. So if the focuser isnt pefectly square to the tube, it shouldn't cause issues. For final adjustments of the primary mirror, i use my main camera+CC and i take images of a star rich field with a bright star at the center. Then in live view i adjust the primary mirror, so that the bright star moves in the opposite direction of the worst corner. Then i move the scope to recenter the bright star. Refocus and repeat the procedure until all corners are equal. When all corners are equally bad, you can worry about correct spacing
  4. Bibabutzemann
    I also found that chopping the draw tube is not necessary, even with my Canon. It doesnt protrude enough to cause any issues. I had to unscrew the stop ring of the CC and push it further in along with my extension tube. This only works with my thin 1mm M48 to EOS adapter, not with the standard 11mm EOS T Ring. Tried new processing techniques on Bubble Nebula and Sorroundings captured last autumn. Roughly 19 hours integration with the l-extreme and 1 hour for RGB Stars HEQ 5 + EOS 2000D + 130PDS
  5. Bibabutzemann
    Thanks! Mosaic and Photometric Color calibration was done in Pixinsight. Stetching was done in Siril. To preserve more of the colours, i first apply two moderate arcsinh stetches before doing the final stretch in Photoshop. At the end i remove the green tint and do some final saturation but with a star mask to prevent oversaturated stars. CS Patrick
  6. Bibabutzemann
    Ok Clean shot btw! M31 from September, 2 Panel mosaic with 3 hours each. And here NGC663 & friends HEQ5, EOS 2000D, Bortle 5 CS Patrick
  7. Bibabutzemann
    Hi, nice setup! its an easy and cheap but effective tuning for better star shapes and less halo. I bought mine at a shop from austrian astro youtuber Daniel Nimmervoll (liquidart-shop). Its a high quality 3D print in mat black with perfect fit and minimal intrusion in the optical path. (mat is optional for 6 euro) Another easy fix is to cover the back of your scope with a swimming cap to reduce light gradients. To reduce risk of tilting its recommended to replace the 2 screws at the 2" adapter wtih nylon tipped screws. Ideally make a third hole for evenly applied pressure. (i dont know where to get those nylon screws though, im wondering that myself)
  8. Bibabutzemann started following Opinions please - Canon eos 2000D , what's wrong with this picture and M90 and interplanetary traffic
  9. Bibabutzemann
    When you dither between every (few) image you would expect that the hotpixels dont allign. These artefacts should go away once you do median stacking or additive stacking with default rejection settings. I get the same pattern like on your 2nd image when doing addtive stacking and choose "no rejection" as a rejection method. Comparing your worklfow with this tutorial by Dominique Dhoosche may helps understanding what went wrong: https://siril.org/tutorials/tuto-manual/
  10. Bibabutzemann
    At least you got Ceres.😀 I think with Bortle 9 i wouldnt even bother with galaxies or other dim broadband targets. Better use a portable setup and just go out in the fields. Comparing Signal-Noise-Ratio, 1 hour in Bortle 3 is worth over 100hours in Bortle 9.
  11. Bibabutzemann
    nice one. I wonder if its worth doing narrowband on Orion. Maybe depends on the light pollution, but i think orion is bright enough to prioritize RGB over NB. The nebula is partly broadband and very colourful. Here is an image of M90 and few other galaxies. I planned to frame it together with Ceres, but turns out that Stellarium isnt accurate by default (realized during imaging, had to add the latest data via solar system editor) Luckily, Ceres still moved into my framing. During imaging i also realized that there are two additional asteroids in the image. I expanded the catalogue in Stellarium and could identify them as Chloris (124km) and Tiflis (21km). Also made a gif (had to reduce quality) All three asteroids are part of the asteroid belt. So the brightness of the asteroids roughly correlates with their size. If you look REALLY closely, you can see something else flying along the asteroid belt Tychostation.mp4 (anyone watching The Expanse?)
  12. Bibabutzemann
    The troubling trio Chloris, Tiflis and Ceres photobombed my picture of M90. Spot the asteroids! asteroids.mp4 Resolution here acquisition: 27.2.23, Germany, Bortle 5 HEQ 5, 130PDS, EOS 2000D ~4hours
  13. Bibabutzemann
    Galaxy season has started! M109 + Phecda. Love the dynamic between these two objects. 130PDS+HEQ5+2000D, 4.5h, Bortle 5. Edit: Corrected Version, somehow the Photometric color calibration in Siril makes the image too green..
  14. Bibabutzemann
    Hi Since weather in January was too cloudy, i could image the ZTF comet only on 6.2.2023. It was full moon and the comet wasnt as beautiful anymore, but i like the animations. I did one with fixed comet and one with fixed stars. Not sure which i prefer. Captured with EOS 2000D, 130 PDS, HEQ5 over a time span of 3h10m. Also full moon from same night fixedcomet1.mp4 fixedstars1.mp4 Ugh does anyone know how to make the video size smaller 😄
  15. Bibabutzemann
    In my opinion a used 2000D is the best budget camera for astrophotography you can get right now. I disagree that any 18MP Canon will do better. From my personal experience the Canons before 2000D have serious banding issues. The 2000D gives a cleaner image. Also it has the lowest Read-Noise, (better than the 4000D or 200D), which means you can lower exposure times. I bought the 2000D after i did a comparison between my old 1200D and the 2000D from a friend. Big difference. It has also higher Quantumn efficiency and 24MP is better for sub 800mm focal length IMO. I got it used (like new) for 200€. If you would want a APS-C sized dedicated astro cam you would have to spend like 5 times the money for a used model. And honestly i dont think the difference between cooled OSC and DSLR is that big that its worth the upgrade. Only during warmer nights combined with a dark sky / narrowband the difference becomes apparent. My next step from DSLR will definetely be a mono camera.
  16. Bibabutzemann
    For 1500€ i would definitely go for a APS-C sized sensor, ideally with the IMX571 Sensor. A used QHY 268C or a new Lacerta 2600C for example.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.