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Imaging with the 130pds


Russe

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Thanks for the bits of advice I received. This post is to apologise in advance to anybody in the south of England because we're almost certainly due a few weeks of clouds at least...

I decided to go for the following:

  • ZWO ASI294MM-Pro
  • ZWO 31mm unmounted LRGB and 7nm Ha, SII, OIII filters
  • ZWO 8-filter wheel
  • ZWO electronic focus motor (EAF)
  • A couple of dew shields for my 130-PDS and my guide scope
  • The Rowan belt mod for my NEQ6 Pro mount
  • and lastly... a Cheshire, because I've never actually owned one haha

I'm hoping I don't regret it, but I'm pretty excited for it all to arrive now!

 

If anyone has any tips related to any of the above, I'd love to hear them.

I have previously modded my 130-PDS to bring the primary up the tube to help with DSLR focus and the focuser tube not protruding (and I use the SW 0.9x CC) - should I still be able to reach focus with this new setup or am I likely to have to move the mirror back down the tube?

Edited by sagramore
Forgot I also bought the electronic focus motor
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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the double post but there may be hope for this dew shield after all. I took a peek down the tube at the end of the night and the secondary mirror and coma corrector both looked clear. My primary mirror, however, was super foggy and looked like it was glistening. I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s because it’s extremely dirty. I’m going to clean it for the first time ever and see if this shield ends up working.

I’m still open to dew heater recommendations, though, just in case. 

 

 

2CDAF159-64CE-48D8-9FC3-98DE0600B066.jpeg

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1 hour ago, braybarr said:

Sorry for the double post but there may be hope for this dew shield after all. I took a peek down the tube at the end of the night and the secondary mirror and coma corrector both looked clear. My primary mirror, however, was super foggy and looked like it was glistening. I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s because it’s extremely dirty. I’m going to clean it for the first time ever and see if this shield ends up working.

I’m still open to dew heater recommendations, though, just in case. 

 

 

2CDAF159-64CE-48D8-9FC3-98DE0600B066.jpeg

Is that daylight for round the bottom?

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So all the new gear I ordered, including the ASI294MM Pro, arrived yesterday morning and in some stroke of sheer luck the skies were clear that very same night!

This is my first time getting set up with anything other than an old colour DSLR so I had to get all my other kit out from where it's been gathering dust for a year or two, fit the filters in the filter wheel, get the focus motor set up, fit the camera to everything and work out where the coma corrector fits in the new optical train, and then get everything out in the garden. You can imagine my upset when I plug everything in and realise that the 12V power on the camera is not just for the cooler, but for it to function at all. It still seems mad to me that this isn't stated *more* obviously (in hindsight it is stated) when you buy it. It's also mind-boggling that a £1500 camera doesn't come with a simple power supply in the box, but c'est la vie. Due to my impatience and the forecast suggesting that night was my only night for the foreseeable future, I decided to jury rig a home-made power solution that I previously have used to power my laptop from a 12V battery when in the field, so that it could hook the camera up to my 12V DC mains power supply (which the NEQ6 runs off). Thankfully I didn't screw any of my wiring or polarity up and it actually all worked!

I spent some time getting used to the focus motor and the filter wheel, various settings (as well as a very updated and new version of APT since I last imaged anything), and then decided to give narrowband a go for the first time. The following image is my first light with this camera on the 130PDS and I couldn't be happier considering a) it's only 35 mins per filter, b) I've never processed any narrowband data before, and c) I've loved the Hubble palette ever since I understood what it was and I'm stoked to be using it now.

Acquisition details:

  • Skywatcher 130-PDS on NEQ6 (primary moved up the tube to help reduce focus tube protrusion)
  • ZWO ASI294MM Pro with ZWO 31 mm unmounted 7nm bandpass filters (SII, Ha, OIII) in a ZWO EFW
    • Gain 120
    • Sensor -5 C
    • Exposure 300 s - 7 frames each filter for a total of 35 mins per filter & 105 mins total
  • Astrophotography Tools for plate solving and acquisition
  • Guiding: Startravel 80 + ZWO ASI120MC-Pro using PHD2

Processing details:

  • Stacked in Deepskystacker using 6 dark frames and 20 flats per filter
  • Each filter image imported into Photoshop 2022
    • Converted to 16 bit
    • Levels and curves
    • Astronomy Tools v1.6 "Enhance DSO & Reduce Stars"
    • More levels and curves
  • Combined into RGB in Photoshop
    • Continued with levels and curves
    • Astronomy Tools v1.6 "Deep Space Noise Reduction"
    • Selective colour tweaks to improve "SHO Hubble Palette" colours
  • Exported to Lightroom
    • Tweaked clarity, colour noise, and exposure

 

1061292152_RGB-PartialProcess.thumb.jpg.52e099613965712ec6584e5cbe23141d.jpg

 

I'm well aware this is barely any time at all, which is one of the reasons I'm so pleased with the result. I also actually performed my focus using the luminance filter and then forgot/didn't have enough time to tweak focus between filters so I'm going to blame some of the dodgy star shapes on that. I think my coma corrector is doing a reasonable job, but if anyone has any tips or constructive criticisms then I'd love to hear them because this is all really new to me!

 

Thanks a lot for looking.

 

EDIT TO ADD: I wanted to try a quick HOO version as I see this is a more usual treatment of this nebula. I didn't spend as much time as above and so I've overcooked the background a bit, but I still think it looks quite nice. Which do you all prefer?

1027840565_2022-08-29-EasternVeil-HOO.thumb.jpg.855726078ee2fc8cf83311240b677226.jpg

Edited by sagramore
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Another "first" for me - all the new kit from my previous post but I wanted to try out some LRGB. I only managed to catch an hour or two between clouds last night but M13 was a juicy looking target to test things out. I thought that as this was quite a "high resolution" target I'd try out the L in 1x1 binning mode, although I'm not sure my seeing or focus really benefitted... Still, good to try all the fancy features of new gear. Again, as with my Eastern Veil, above, I am pretty happy with the results for a) only 60 minutes total exposure, and b) my inexperience with the gear & the processing methods. My back garden is in the middle of a medium town so I'm quite pleased with the lack of LP issues all things considered.

Thanks for looking! Any comments or C&C are gratefully received. I need to learn to process these mono subs properly!

 

Acquisition details:

  • Skywatcher 130-PDS on NEQ6 (primary moved up the tube to help reduce focus tube protrusion)
  • ZWO ASI294MM Pro with ZWO 31 mm unmounted LRGB filters in a ZWO EFW
    • Gain 120, offset 8
    • Sensor -10 C
    • Exposures: L 12x180 s  1x1 bin (36 mins), RGB 3x180s each 2x2 bin (9 mins each) - TOTAL: 63 mins
  • Astrophotography Tools for plate solving and acquisition
  • Guiding: Startravel 80 + ZWO ASI120MC-Pro using PHD2

Processing details:

  • Stacked in Deepskystacker using 8 dark frames for L, 6 dark frames for RGB, and 20 flats per filter
  • Each filter image imported into Photoshop 2022
    • Converted to 16 bit
    • Levels and curves
    • More levels and curves
  • Combined into LRGB in Photoshop
    • Continued with levels and curves
    • Selective colour tweaks
    • Camera RAW noise removal
    • Rotated and cropped
  • Exported to Lightroom
    • Tweaked clarity, saturation, and noise removal

M13-LRGB_2_Processed.thumb.jpg.cfb162fd43036de8e3c18b1284bc1ad6.jpg

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Hi guys,

Is it normal to have cam so off centre on 130PDS? 
I guess focuser is placed really bad (as I have removed him previously for scope flocking), but it seems there is not way to place it back so camera would face dead centre...

Maybe I should try to rotate whole focuser 180 degrees?

please ignore the secondary mirror, just pay attention to the crosshair position (placed by sharpcap)

 

update...

silly me... it is the cam position in the focuser's drawtube....
anyway, cannot get it look directly....


image.thumb.png.5882696b99fd869e61d11d971c9c84ab.png

 

 

 

Edited by RolandKol
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Hi

Try the 180° first.

Although we'd recommend aligning and collimating properly, to do what you want without doing so, locate the three pairs of push-pull screws at 120°around the base of the focuser. Use those to align the focuser.

Cheers 

Edited by alacant
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2 hours ago, alacant said:

Hi

Try the 180° first.

Although we'd recommend aligning and collimating properly, to do what you want without doing so, locate the three pairs of push-pull screws at 120°around the base of the focuser. Use those to align the focuser.

Cheers 

I have updated my initial post, - maybe you have not noticed... it is strange behaviour of ZWO 224 in the drawtube (tried 2 of tubes I got). Camera simply does not look directly and probably is not the best choice for collimation... I suspect, the ZWO fisheye lense creates a slight offset.

at the moment I have ended up on this stage...  sadly will not manage to do a star test today...

image.thumb.jpeg.3d8cf14ef7a0a62804ff6a592bff555d.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone upgraded their springs?  I'm slowly collecting bits and pieces for upgrades and I think springs are the last low cost item I've got to get.  Looking for size to go for.  I could take the ones out but I don't want to disassemble till Ive got all the bits to do the upgrades in one go.

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7 hours ago, AstroMuni said:

Out of interest how & why are you using the fish-eye lens for this?

I failed to achieve focus (on the secondary/primary mirror view) without it at all.

if it is possible without the lens, - I would be very happy to get rid of it as off-centre view causes lots of headache.

P.S.

As per question "how" - I am a bit confused... Simply, screwed it in and ZWO 224 becomes as a wide view web-cam..

P.P.S.  just in case, - ZWO224 comes with the fisheye lens in the box if I recall it correctly... or maybe I bought it ages ago.

 

Edited by RolandKol
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On 10/09/2022 at 20:17, Ratlet said:

size

1.4x12x15 mm: (wire OD L)

Fit six. 3 replacements and a further 3 passively over the locking screws. Leave the latter loose. 

AliExpress: lots of 10 for €sensible.

Whilst you have it on the bench, we'd recommend removing the mirror clips.

Just our works-for-us approach but HTH anyway.

 

Edited by alacant
alambre
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54 minutes ago, RolandKol said:

I failed to achieve focus (on the secondary/primary mirror view) without it at all.

I think I understand, you are using the ASI224 with fisheye just to show us how it looks right? And not for actual AP! I was thinking why is he using fisheye to image? Duh 🙂 I have the ASI224 too and so very familiar with it.

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24 minutes ago, alacant said:

1.4x12x15 mm:

Fit six. 3 replacements and a further 3 passively over the locking screws. Leave the latter loose. 

AliExpress: lots of 10 for €sensible.

Whilst you have it on the bench, we'd recommend removing the mirror clips.

Just our works-for-us approach but HTH anyway.

 

Perfect!  Much appreciated.

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25 minutes ago, AstroMuni said:

I think I understand, you are using the ASI224 with fisheye just to show us how it looks right? And not for actual AP! I was thinking why is he using fisheye to image? Duh 🙂 I have the ASI224 too and so very familiar with it.

I think he might be collimating his scope by using a webcam, or in this case an asi224.  The overlay should allow you to centre everything.

Funnily enough I just did the same thing yesterday using a yi home camera that I use to keep an eye on the car.  I was really struggling with the offset if the secondary.

I put a couple of wraps of craft foam and it fits snuggly in the 2" focuser and should be relatively central.

I think though that when you align everything this way it should be aligned with the focus tube.  This link explains how to do it:

I found it pretty simple, although I followed it up with a laser collimator because that's even easier and it was mostly the offset I had borked.

I also discovered that if I put my laser collimator in my Barlow for aligning the primary it reflects back to the collimator as concentric circles.  Makes it even easier to get it bang on.

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I love this little scope. Best investment so far. Super capable little thing.
Currently working on my first mosaic, Heart Nebula + Fishhead Nebula. 2 panels, 45x300s & 55x300s, (calib : 20B, 12D, 20F) total about 2x 4H.


That is still a work in progress as I hope to add 2h+ on each panel tonight if all goes well, and later to add 4h of RGB when I have received my mutiband filter and the moon allows, to create a coloured HaRGB.

Shot from backyard in UK/Bournemouth, Borttle 6/7 the past 2 nights, with a self modded and cooled to 5C canon 450D, SWx0.9 Field Flattener, Baader 7nm Ha, SW 130PDS, CG5-GT, guided with Altair 60mm+ZWO ASI120MM mini. (Nina, Gimp) 

heart.jpeg

IMG_20220917_150719_099.jpg

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It's been a long time since I've used my 130P-DS, and since then I have made quite a few adjustments, so I thought I could share them here!

I added a long Arca-Swiss plate on top, to attach accessories and act as a handle ; ordered a 3D Printed light shield for the rear ; got some knobs to ease collimation ; and like I shared a few weeks ago, added some felt inside the tube to improve the darkness (still no idea if that was worth it, but it was fun!). I also switched to the Maxfield 0.95x flattener, hopefully I'll get better stars than with the Baader MPCC. Finally I got a long Losmandy plate, which allows me to put the tune on the table to collimate it. I couldn't do that with the green vixen dovetail, which was very annoying.

Here are some pictures!

784702F9-585C-4BAC-992A-0806A45277B4.thumb.jpeg.130b891b52209f74db7870b70afe99e3.jpeg

EB65D09B-2BF6-4903-88C6-DA614EEAF8A9.thumb.jpeg.9a65325a47a8dc883c7e10f79b0cf03c.jpeg

90754451-D55D-4228-A10F-5DB84260E9F6.thumb.jpeg.afb68dcf59b62de24aa79601ef55852b.jpeg

9F3402CE-2CB2-47FB-A026-55D23AE074CF.thumb.jpeg.ef093e2542a9069d9b3a82b6120578d1.jpeg

 

I control everything from my "astro box", a plastic box that I cut to allow cables to run from my kitchen. The box contains a 15V power supply for the mount, and a 12V one for the rest of the rig. There's a mini PC (when I'm not using the ASIAIR), a travel WiFi router that connects the rig to my network via Ethernet (and ports for a second rig one day), and it also provides me with a fast WiFi outside, which makes setting up the ASIAIR very quick. I also added a TP Link surveillance camera.

All of that so I can control and watch my scope lazily from the comfort of my bed ; I'll probably thank myself when winter comes! :) 
54037535-D183-4ACD-B77A-EA13A5C81930.thumb.jpeg.7faae5e2f5d2d4fd57f9f9d10c0318eb.jpeg

 

Tonight I will do some test pictures, I want to check my collimation and see how stars behave in the corners. If all goes well, I'll do some imaging. I'm planning to photograph the soul nebula in a 2x1 mosaic. I have never tried this feature on the ASIAIR, but it seems rather straightforward! Finger crossed!

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8 hours ago, Space Oddities said:

It's been a long time since I've used my 130P-DS, and since then I have made quite a few adjustments, so I thought I could share them here!

I added a long Arca-Swiss plate on top, to attach accessories and act as a handle ; ordered a 3D Printed light shield for the rear ; got some knobs to ease collimation ; and like I shared a few weeks ago, added some felt inside the tube to improve the darkness (still no idea if that was worth it, but it was fun!). I also switched to the Maxfield 0.95x flattener, hopefully I'll get better stars than with the Baader MPCC. Finally I got a long Losmandy plate, which allows me to put the tune on the table to collimate it. I couldn't do that with the green vixen dovetail, which was very annoying.

Here are some pictures!

90754451-D55D-4228-A10F-5DB84260E9F6.thumb.jpeg.afb68dcf59b62de24aa79601ef55852b.jpeg

 

 

I control everything from my "astro box", a plastic box that I cut to allow cables to run from my kitchen. The box contains a 15V power supply for the mount, and a 12V one for the rest of the rig. There's a mini PC (when I'm not using the ASIAIR), a travel WiFi router that connects the rig to my network via Ethernet (and ports for a second rig one day), and it also provides me with a fast WiFi outside, which makes setting up the ASIAIR very quick. I also added a TP Link surveillance camera.

All of that so I can control and watch my scope lazily from the comfort of my bed ; I'll probably thank myself when winter comes! :) 
 

 

Tonight I will do some test pictures, I want to check my collimation and see how stars behave in the corners. If all goes well, I'll do some imaging. I'm planning to photograph the soul nebula in a 2x1 mosaic. I have never tried this feature on the ASIAIR, but it seems rather straightforward! Finger crossed!

Happy to see my design of the back cover  3D print  :)

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My first mosaic turned out great :) I am once amazed at the simplicity of the ASIAIR, creating mosaics is so easy that I wonder why I haven't done it before. It gave me the idea to image the whole Orion constellation this winter.

I need to figure out how to properly make a mosaic in PixInsight, without that ugly gradient in the middle. Perhaps flats will help there! I'll make some tonight and see it that helps.

Here's a work in progress version, I'm very happy with how it turned out! :) 

ZWO ASI1600MM-Pro, 2 panels of 48x300s each (8 hours in total), 139 gain, -10°C, Baader 7nm Ha

1404300409_SoulNebula2022-09-19Mosaicv1.thumb.jpg.92ab260533c41017a1d44e3f06510977.jpg

 

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