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About Thalestris24

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  1. Thalestris24

    good news ... bad news

    I believe amp glow is 'normal' in these new cmos cameras and you just have to take darks. Also, I believe it's better to take many shorter subs. Louise
  2. Thalestris24


    Hi Mick Possibly a Win 10 update? I think I had a similar problem not so long ago. I had to uninstall I and reinstall (left the index files alone). It was ok after that, and it didn't take long to do. Louise
  3. Thalestris24

    Don't blame I'm old :)

    Did you know, though, that it actually is still there! If you return to the thread and start a reply, what you typed in before will magically reappear! Louise
  4. Thalestris24

    Don't blame I'm old :)

    We should start a special thread just for us 'seniors' ha ha. Louise
  5. Thalestris24

    What's am I doing wrong ?

    I'm sooo guilty of taking things at face value! I'm definitely showing my age... Louise
  6. Thalestris24

    What's am I doing wrong ?

    Ahhh - I didn't realise that! D'uh!
  7. Thalestris24

    What's am I doing wrong ?

    Hi Brian Well, for starters, there's definitely a background image that shouldn't be there! I suspect you've somehow managed to includ some non astro test images in the stack? You may also have not edited the 'raw fits ddp settings' for the correct Bayer pattern. Maybe other problems too.... Louise
  8. Thalestris24

    100mm APO scope

    Yeah, the FPL53 version will be better optically but... 400 Euros more then you need to add a flattener, if not a reducer. So budget is a consideration. Urban doesn't say whether he has an osc 1600 or a mono. I'd have thought that If he's imaging in mono then colour correction would be less of an issue. Louis
  9. Thalestris24

    100mm APO scope

    Hi TS scopes are good quality. I have a 115mm F6.96 APO + Photoline 0.79x ff with R+P . I also have an 80mm F6 with .8x Altair Astro Lightroom ff. Not the same as the one you're interested but the ones I have are very nice. You might lose some colour correction with an ED but it's probably ok. I think, for imaging, you'd want a reducer as F7 would be a little slow. Of course, you can try and see what it's like at F7. Louise
  10. Thalestris24

    Which Compute Stick?

    Hi I can't personally recommend a Kingdel (or anything similar, even). The lower working voltage probably reflects a lower speed and corresponding lower power requirement. Obviously any system in a small box is likely trying to save as much power wherever it can. I think the mini pcs are essentially laptops without a screen or keyboard or a battery. I would maybe post a separate question about which computer is ok for outside in one of the 'getting started' threads - I'm sure you'll get many replies. All different... Louise
  11. Thalestris24

    SW HEQ5 Pro power issue

    Hi I don't think anyone can tell you but obviously the problem is either with the connection or the power supply itself. It shouldn't be too difficult to determine which is to blame. I'd try a different power supply first. If that makes no difference i.e. you still have the same problem, then you will probably have to look at the connector at the heq5 end. The input side is just a standard 2.1 x 5mm power connector and the socket is the corresponding type. I think if it looks like it is a connector problem then it would be worth inspecting the pcb to see if maybe a solder joint on the connector has fractured or whether there is a problem with the socket itself. Hope you can sort it. Louise
  12. Thalestris24

    Which Compute Stick?

    Hi Video streaming isn't in itself computationally intensive. I use one of my desktop PCs as a tv with, in principle, 4 separate tuners. It uses very little cpu bandwidth to just watch. Recording uses a bit more . I think there are probably better alternatives to compute stick such as a 'mini pc' (e.g. Kingdel) as well as actual laptops. Lots of people find ways to use their laptops outside ok (Disclaimer: I'm not one of them - yet!). Louise
  13. Thalestris24

    Asking too much of a Sensor??

    Hi Rob You might find this an inspiring web site. Dithering is a great help for reducing colour noise. Light pollution is always problematic - the sky background reduces your signal/noise significantly meaning you need to take a lot more subs to compensate. Don't forget to take sufficient calibration frames - about 30 of each is good. You can usually reuse most of them. How you do your stacking and post processing can make a big difference. Do post some of your images - people here are really helpful so I'm sure you will get some constructive advice Louise
  14. Thalestris24

    Which Compute Stick?

    Hi I'm afraid I've no experience of using a compute stick but from what I've read they lack power and I wouldn't get one! Surely, you'd be better off with a notebook/laptop to do the things you mention? Louise
  15. Hi Jacob I have lots of cameras - too many, now ha ha! But,, yes, I do have a full spectrum Canon 1100d amongst others. However, I mostly image with dedicated astro cameras and set point cooled ones are best. I wouldn't worry about filters at this stage - one step at a time. A lp filter can be useful if the wavelengths causing you problems correspond to those blocked/reduced by the filter. A field flattener corrects the field distortion you get with most refractors. Coma correctors do a similar job for reflectors. You would ideally need a coma corrector for AP with, say, a 150pds or other newt. The coma tends to affect the outside edge of the image so is worse with large sensors such as a dslr (often referred to as 'aps-c' size). You can crop out the distorted part of the image but that's wasteful! You could use a heq5 pro without a computer/laptop but then you'd need a standalone autoguider of which I have no personal experience. Not sure what you mean by a 'sky scanner'? Do you mean Synscan handset? That allows you to control the mount without a laptop. I see you can get a heq5 with a belt mod done for you - worth the extra, I'd say By the way, did I mention that astrophotography can be a money pit?? Louise

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