Dr_Ju_ju

How good is your de-soldering & soldering ?? if ok then have a look on Farnell & RS for replacements, in the long run it will probably be easier & more reliable.

See other reply regarding https://uk.farnell.com/servisol/super-servisol-10/cleaner-switch-contact-200ml/dp/278786

If you want to go down the cleaning route then get some of this, and ONLY this https://uk.farnell.com/servisol/super-servisol-10/cleaner-switch-contact-200ml/dp/278786, I know many BBC studios both radio & TV that rely on it...

Sorry I don't use Instagram, but I do use Skype, if you have an account.... Also message me privately to keep secure...

Also have you ensured that you've disabled all power management on the devices & the generic USB Hubs..

I have to be honest, and I've used midi for years, I've never considered it for Astro gear, as to my mind, it just adds another layer, to an already tortuous path, but I wish you all the best !!

Teaching to the converted, but for those that don't know, MIDI = Musical Instrument Digital Interface and so won't work for Astro gear... If you want to control Astro gear on Windows, then the Ascom system provides the 'glue' that puts it all together, with Ascom interfaces for caneras\mounts\focusers etc.... then usually being controlled by an 'Master' programme e.g. Sequence Generator Pro, SharpCap, APT, BackyardEOS..... If you have any RaspberryPi's then you can go down the INDI route\Kstars etc route...

to be honest, no.... at least it will tell you if you are in the right area, but that would be it. You don't say which mount you have, but most have some form of alignment routine in their controller, which will probably get you quite close to accurate, so that when you slew you'll be close to the target..

1 - as part of polar aligning it will need to be adjusted for your location.... 2 - doesn't have to be perfect.... 3 - No Polaris, isn't true north its a little way off..

I'd also echo the use of a plastic air-conn pipe, as they come in more usable sizes, and when filled with concrete are just as strong & robust. Also to aid the bonding of differing concrete slabs, rough\gouge the old concrete and add some external grade PVA to the mix...

I believe you need one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-3-0-Lead-Cable-For-WD-Seagate-Toshiba-Samsung-Portable-External-Hard-Drive/172994117891 I don't know if its long enough....

Your still not giving us all the info we need to be able to help you.... i.e. what camera(s) [guider & main ??] your using etc... tell us your full setup addicts & all software etc. !!

So before I go rambling off in a wrong direction, the software you are having issues with is PHD2 (https://openphdguiding.org/) and not some other software ?? if so what camera & mount are you using, and version of PHD2 ? and any additional software e.g. EQMod, camera drivers etc ??

A bit more info required, i.e. what hardware, OS, other software installed etc. ??

Is there any mains power adjacent to your setup or do you set & strip each session ? If there is mains close by there are many options available, to power your mount and any other devices....

For me, to drive an old EQ5 mount (bigger brother to the EQ3), the simplest thing was be to make an AstroEQ system (https://astroeq.co.uk/tutorials.php). I made my own PCB etc., but its relatively easy to make up on breadboard.

generally yes, as long as the stepper is [usually] 4 wire (2 coils) & the driver is capable of driving it....

Running cable ethernet is more reliable, get faster throughput etc. & is the way I run all my gear, even out to the shed at the bottom of the garden, for the skycam & future weather station. For me, Wifi is for toys i.e. phones etc.

Hola Jaime, what camera ??

What is actually wrong with it ?? a little TLC from someone may be able to resurrect it.....

Personally, I just use the in-built default "Windows Remote Desktop", connecting to to multiple Windows Workstations & Servers & even Ubuntu Mate devices, most of which are headless i.e. no keyboard\screens, with no problems. It usually makes it easier, if all the connected devices are on the same network subnet, so I see no reason why AnyDesk should be any different, so just give it a go...

and what software are you having issues with ?? .....

Two logs for you Alex, one from a default 'Freezing' app & one from a 'Working' Direct3D Angle_Direct3D_log.txt Freezing_log.txt

Well some success, try running it using one of the other 'configuration modes', e.g. Angle Direct3D 11 mode, Angle mode, Mesa mode etc.... If any of these work, you'll need to update the default start link to match, so that you don't waste time with the default....

Yep, I've tried running it on a number of PC's, and even though it 'starts', it takes ages to open, but then just sits there totally unresponsive and unable to do anything, even with a clean install (20.0.2) and no add-ons.....