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Showing results for tags 'oag'.
Found 23 results
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I have just got myself a Celestron C11-A XLT (CG-5) scope and a SkyWatcher EQ6-R PRO SynScan mount. I have an ASIAIR PRO and the ZWO ASI462MC planetary camera. I want to use my Nikon DSLR for deep sky photography. Now I’m looking at auto guide options. I’m thinking of getting a ZWO ASI290MM mini and am wondering if I should get a guidescope or an OAG? Which is better and why? I don’t have the Edge HD C11 so would the view on my scope be good enough for an OAG? If I go for a guidescope what would I need there? I’ve seen 50mm and 60mm scopes but some people have mounted huge guidescopes which would be way out of my budget. Would a smaller guide scope be up to the job? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi All, wondered if you could help me make sense of this ... new HEQ5 - belt modded by FLO, all feels good, minuscule backlash but strange guiding. Admittedly first time using it but baffled. Failed calibration see image below and guiding seemed to be Ra and Dec following each other. Stars look ok ish (@ 1500 mm ) Needle galaxy is poor as only about 10 mins each in RGB note - it was hazy and did keep losing star in OAG Thanks for looking PHD2_DebugLog_2020-05-19_221608.txt
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Hi Does anyone feel able to recommend an OAG + Coma Corrector combination that achieves the correct spacing and good reliable results when connected to a Nikon DSLR? Cheers Mike -
Hi everyone, I would like to use my QHY5L-II with my OAG. However, it seems like even at 2x Binning its not able to see stars. I've used Dark library, but no use even then Any help will be appreciated.
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Greetings everyone. I recently scored a great deal on facebook marketplace and bought Skywatcher Skymax 180 mm Maksutov-Cassegrain Telescope (f/15) with EQ6R-pro mount. I understand that long focal length telescopes are more suitable for planetary imaging. However, as I am tight on budget, I would like to use the same scope for deep-sky astrophotography. I have Canon Rebel T5 DSLR camera that I am using for taking images. Without autoguiding and a decent polar alignment, I can get ~30 seconds long shots without any star trailing, but that's not sufficient for imaging objects like M51. I would like to be able to integrate longer, say few minutes, thus would like to purchase an autoguider. Here are some specific questions I have. 1). The telescope comes with an 8 x 50 straight-through finder. If I were to use it as a guidescope, what type of image integration time can I expect? Has anyone done autoguiding for f/15 scope with an 8x50 or other finderscopes? 2). If the integration time will be an issue with the 8x50 finder scope, I am open to purchasing an off-axis-guider. However, considering the narrow field-of-view of Mak-180 telescope, I am concerned about not having enough photons from guidestar for autoguiding. For instance, with my DSLR camera, I need to integrate 20-30 seconds to see the nearby stars in M51. What type of OAG and camera would I need to autoguide with my scope? Are there affordable cameras (~$200) that would do the job for me? Would ASI120MM Mini Monochrome (~$150) do the job? What about OAG? I plan to use phd2 software for autoguiding rather than relying on the build-in guide port on the mount. Instead of integrating for hours, I am planning to do DSS stacking of few mintues long multiple shots, hopefully this will put less strict requirements on the autoguider. In case this information is relevant: with my current setup, I have no issue pointing my scope to a desired deep-sky object, track the object within the field-of-view of my DSLR camera for hours using the mechnical tracking of the EQ6 mount. For instance following is a single raw image of Ring nebula taken with 30 seconds shot. But it is not enough for generating high-quality images. Thank you in advance for your help. Regards, Jay -
THIS ITEM HAS NOW BEEN SOLD. This listing is for my personal camera (Kayron from Light Vortex Astronomy). It is a QSI 660wsg-8 monochrome CCD camera with the onboard 8-position filter wheel and Off-Axis Guider (OAG). The camera has been extremely well kept and cared for. I am supplying them in the original QSI pelican case, alongside the power adapter (with EU and UK plugs), a new USB cable, the QSI Allen wrench set, the 2" adapter for the camera and the guiding cable. The camera's condition is as-new. The QSI 660wsg-8 requires a single USB connection to control both imaging and the filter wheel. It also cools to -45°C below ambient temperature. The CCD sensor is Sony's ICX694, which is extremely low noise requiring no darks whatsoever and having peak Quantum Efficiency of 77%. The readout noise is also extremely low at only 3.97e as per my own measurement. Its full well capacity is of 17,719e, also as per my own measurement. For more information, please see QSI's website: https://qsimaging.com/products/600-series/qsi-660/ Please note that this camera currently retails at just over £3,700 from UK suppliers, €4,400 from European suppliers or $4,200 from US suppliers. Payment is preferred via bank transfer but PayPal is OK with an extra 2.9% to cover PayPal fees. I'll cover postage to you via tracked Courier. I welcome any questions you may have regarding this listing. Thank you for looking. -
I'm sure this is just one of many hundreds of posts about correct spacings on here - I think I've just about got it but I need to confirm a couple of things with folks who have more experience than me on these matters. My scope is a Skywatcher Evostar 80ED-DS Pro - one which I'm sure anyone here is familiar with and needs little introduction. I'm using the accompanying field flattener/reducer, which requires 55mm of back focus. The off axis guider I plan to use is an OVL Off Axis Guider - it is thin enough that in combination with my camera I should have the required back focus provided the connecting T-adapter is thin enough. My camera is a Canon 550D (mod), which as far as I'm aware will occupy 46.5mm of back focus. My question is, what would be the best way to connect the Canon to the OAG? Puzzlingly it seems the OAG has a 42mm screw-ring on the camera side, which I don't have an adapter for. Do these exist? Are there any thin models available such that I meet my back focus requirement? If there are any other issues with what I'm suggesting please let me know. It's always easier to nail it first time than faff around with ordering adapters only to discover they're the wrong size. Cheers. -
Hi, Contemplating going for a TS OAG9 to use with my 350d, and also potentially with my ST-2000XM (back focus is just short enough to fit it between the cameras and an MPCC - 12mm spacer is needed for the SBIG so it'll just fit). I'd probably want to use my ASI120MM with this (already own it - suitable for guiding with), and concerned about the guider fouling the imaging camera. Wondering if anyone has the above arrangement with the SBIG at all and can confirm it fits/limitations/etc? Thanks!
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Hi All, Apologies for what may seem like a stupid question, but if have a QSI 683 WSG which has a built in OAG which i use for guiding all the time. I want to try imaging some comets but i'm guessing this is not possible with a OAG. I do have a 60mm guide scope, but wasn't sure if differential flex would come into play as my main scope is around 1.2m F/L Any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Rich.
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Hi guys and girls, So I've decided on a 9.25" SCT for my upgrade as initially I want to continue visual observations whilst dabbling in imaging with my DSLR. Then I will look to increase my set up. The question I have is would the AVX be capable of dealing with a imaging set up, whether it be a guidescope or off axis guider? Assume I will be using a monochrome CCD camera with filter wheel when I say imaging setup and not my DSLR. OR should I down size the scope to an 8" as upscaling mount beyond the AVX isnt really an option unless i look at the EQ6. Your thoughts please. -
Hi very new to guiding and using an OAG on my CPC9.25 SCT and need some help. A few weeks back I managed to capture 10min subs of IC434 without any real issue. I had my CPC9.25 mounted on a wedge, did an EQ North Align, then Polar Align > Align Mount routine. I slewed to a target and set about getting both my guide camera, Lodestar X2 & my DSLR both into focus on my attached Celestron 93648 OAG. My setup as follows: SCT > OAG > DSLR via Baader 2958550 Protective T-Ring The complete OAG thickness calculated from the manual is 66.8mm, comprising (SCT Adapter 25.3mm, OAG Body 29mm & Male M42 Camera Adapter 12.5mm) I can't seem to find info on optical thickness of the Baader T-Ring but can only assume that when attached to my DSLR, gives the norm 55mm to sensor. If this is the case then I am already at 121.8mm. To get focus in the guide cam I had to add a 1.25" nose piece extension and the original end of the guide cam is just visible above the top of the guide cam holder. Now skip forward to last night, I thought I'd try getting wider FOV images of the same target, no problem or so I thought, I have a Celestron f6.3 94175 reducer, I'll just install that directly onto the back of my SCT and attach everything else exactly as above, behind it. Well, getting my DSLR into focus was no big issue, just had to turn the focus knob a bit, the usual when using the FR but my issue was with my guide cam, the stars were huge doughnuts. Through a process of elimination I figured that I had to move the guide cam in nearer to the prism, so I had to remove the nose piece extension and push the camera all the way in to the holder as well as winding the OAG guide cam focuser all the way down. Doing this I managed to get sharper results from the guide cam but these stars were no longer round, they were very oblique circles, pointed at the narrow ends. After lots more fiddling and swearing I came to the conclusion that I could not solve this issue on site so gave up and removed the reducer. Later on I realised that it may be that I needed to adjust the position of the prism i.e. slide it in more to the light beam. As it happens I did not have a suitable allen key with me to try this. My question/s is/are: am I correct in thinking that I was possibly picking up stars right on the edge of the FR in the guide cam, the edge where all the aberration is? just wondering why it was necessary that I had to reduce the distance to light source of the guide cam but the DSLR distance was fine staying put & only needed refocusing? Thanks in advance
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As SGPro are actively promoting the FocusLock focussing system from Optec Optical & Electrical Products. I was wondering if anyone is actively using this system. Preferably with a Lodestar or LodestarX2 and OAG, using the Lacerta kit. Steve -
Tarantula Nebula ( NGC 2070 ) in the Large Magellanic Cloud ( LMC ) Re-processed to tweak colour balance and bring out a little more faint detail: New version: Original: ( click/tap on image to see full size - the above compressed version looks a little soft; the full size version is sharper ) The Tarantula Nebula ( NGC 2070 ) is the largest and brightest emission nebula in the nearby irregular galaxy, the Large Magellanic Cloud ( LMC ). At a distance of 160,000 light years away from us, the Tarantula Nebula is so bright that it would cast shadows on the Earth if were as close to us as the Orion Nebula in our galaxy. First image with new telescope and autoguider/setup. Links: 500px.com/MikeODay photo.net/photos/MikeODay Details: Nebulae: NGC 2070 Tarantula Nebula NGC 2048 NGC 2060 NGC 2077. Open clusters: NGC 2042 NGC 2044 NGC 2050 NGC 2055 NGC 2091 NGC 2093 NGC 2100 Image centre RA 5h 38m 57.3s, Dec -69deg 20' 36.6" (nova.astrometry.net) Field of view (arcmin): 58.7 x 39.2 Scale (full size image) 0.585 arcsec/pixel. Telescope: Orion Optics CT12 Newtonian ( mirror 300mm, FL1200mm, f4 ) Corrector: ASA 2" Coma Corrector Quattro 1.175x Effective Focal Length / Aperture ): 1410mm f4.7. Mount: Skywatcher AZ Eq6 GT Guiding: TSOAG9 Off-Axis-Guider, Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2, PHD2 Camera: Nikon D5300 (unmodified) (sensor 23.5 x 15.6mm, 6016x4016 3.9um pixels) Filter: none Exposures: 14 x 240 sec ISO400 12 x 120 sec ISO400 10 x 60 sec ISO400 11 x 60 sec ISO200 10 x 60 sec ISO100 10 x 30 sec ISO100 Pixinsight & Photoshop 20 December 2016
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Hopefully a simple question. When inputting the Focal Length for an OAG in the guiding details in PHD v2. Do I simply input the telescope's Focal Length as this is light path that the guide stars travel through? Thanks.
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Hi I’ve recently got some shiny new kit, and last night was the first clear skies here when I had the opportunity to try it all out. This is not my first time observing, so I’m well prepared for unexpected issues, but it is my first time ccd imaging. There was lots of learning, including; cable management needs to be better, I (still) never have the right USB cable, and the focus tube needs some mechanical refining to address slippage. But the problem I’m not sure how to solve is one of focus. I bought the SW Trius 814 kit (Trius 814, mini usb filter wheel with OAG, and Lodestar X2) and naively thought that perhaps if it was sold together it would all work together. And maybe it does, I’m not immune to stupidity I could achieve focus with the 814 relatively easily, and even captured a test image and solved it in Ekos, all very heart warming. But I couldn’t then get focus with the Lodestar X2 (attached to the integrated OAG in the mini wheel) without pulling the focus tube out considerably further (approx. 50-80mm I didn’t measure). This obviously isn’t ideal. Am I missing something? The setup is: ED80 -> Field flattener -> filterwheel with OAG -> Trius 814 with the Lodestar attaches directly to the OAG. All advice appreciated, and please don’t imagine that I won’t have missed something ‘obvious’ Thanks Justin
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Tarantula Nebula ( NGC 2070 ) in Large Magellanic Cloud ( LMC ) by Mike O'Day. The Tarantula Nebula ( NGC 2070 ) is the largest and brightest emission nebula in the nearby irregular galaxy, the Large Magellanic Cloud ( LMC ). At a distance of 160,000 light years away from us, the Tarantula Nebula is so bright that it would cast shadows on the Earth if were as close to us as the Orion Nebula in our galaxy. New version ( April 9 ): ( please click / tap on image to see larger and sharper image ) ............ Older versions: And here it is re-processed to try to reduce the red background ( due to light pollution I think ) without impacting the colour of the stars too much ( please click / tap on image to see larger and sharper ) Details: Nebulae: NGC 2070 Tarantula Nebula NGC 2048 NGC 2060 NGC 2077 Open clusters: NGC 2042 NGC 2044 NGC 2050 NGC 2055 NGC 2091 NGC 2093 NGC 2100 Image centre ... (nova.astrometry.net) Field of view (arcmin): ... Telescope: Orion Optics CT12 Newtonian ( mirror 300mm, fl 1200mm, f4 ). Corrector: ASA 2" Coma Corrector Quattro 1.175x. Effective Focal Length / Aperture ): 1410mm f4.7. Mount: Skywatcher AZ Eq6 GT. Guiding: TSOAG9 Off-Axis-Guider, Starlight Xpress Lodestar X2, PHD2 Camera: Nikon D5300 (unmodified) (sensor 23.5 x 15.6mm, 6016x4016 3.9um pixels). Filter: none. Exposures: 100 sub exposures ranging from 1s 100ISO to 240Sec 400ISO HDR processing of 5 sets of images Pixinsight & Photoshop 20 December 2016 / April 2017
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I've bought a second hand Celestron Radial Guider OAG. It looks quite old, but is in good condition. I intend to use it with my C9.25, f6.7 focal reducer and Canon 600D dslr. I have a standard Celestron T-Adapter-SC #93633-A and Canon AF T-Ring. These fit together nicely and all is well. I just tried fitting the T-Ring to the Radial Guider OAG but they don't fit together. The thread appears different on the OAG to the standard T-adapter. I was wondering if anybody knew what I need to marry the two parts together? Or do I need to buy a different T-ring? Any help would be appreciated
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Hi guys, you've probably hear this before but i have a 250PDS on an NEQ6 and I've been Finder Guiding but now I've brought a SW off-axis guider but for some reason i cant get focus in my EOS 450D. I've wound the mirror up as much as i dare but i still cant seem to gain focus. Does anyone out there use one or do you have any suggestions i could try? Thanks
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Sorry I could not find this by searching the site ... Does anyone know if the TS 9mm OAG will fit between a Baader MPCC and a Nikon camera with the correct 55mm spacing? And if so, do you know what adaptors to order with the OAG to achieve it? (BTW, I've sent an email to TS and I am waiting for a reply. I'll post it here when I get it in case anyone else is interested. ). Thanks guys Mike
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http://www.celestron.com/astronomy/celestron-radial-guider.html I've been offered one of these second hand and wondered of anyone has one, or knows if it's compatible with my setup? I have a Celestron C9.25, Celestron f6.3 focal reducer, Celestron SCT T-adapter with T-ring, and Canon EOS 600D DSLR camera. I'm new to imaging, and wondered what other peoples opinions are before I agree to buy it. I've read a few posts on here that say the distance between the DSLR sensor and the focal reducer is critical, and should be 55mm (I might have this totally wrong). Is it really that critical? and does this OAG setup work with my scope? I know that they're all made by Celestrion, but I don't know if that alone makes everything compatible. Thanks for your opinions, and help
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Brightstar/Orion Clone Off Axis Guider Pick off prism can be moved in numerous planes. Rotate prism around telepsciope axis Rotate prism on own axis Tilt prism Move prism up and down T2 thread fittings Reduced to £75 + £5.50 postage (insured and signed for)
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Hello again troops, and sorry to have to invoke the power of your collective intellect once more. Should be the final time for a while, and will bring Jaffa Cakes to the star party for anyone who can assist I'm finally about to push the button on the camera. I'm not quite decided between the 460ex and 490ex, but for the purposes of this question, it is immaterial. I image through my SW120ED DS-PRO. I have the dedicated 120ED field flattener, which has an M48 thread on the camera end. Optimum sensor distance is 55mm give or take a millimetre. So I obviously need a filter wheel. The SX standard filter wheel with 7 spots looks good, I use 36mm unmounted LRGB/NB, so I can fit them all in and avoid dust bunnies (and pigs might fly). I think this is 25mm thick. I then need to add an OAG, the SX one is 13mm. Total so far is 38mm. Atik cameras of this ilk have a back focus of 13.5mm, so lets add that in. This gives me 51.5mm. With me so far? Is my maths correct? For this very reason Martin has dissuaded me from the SX814 as it's back focus is much bigger. Questions: How do I attach this assembly to the M48 thread on the focal reducer - any ideas? Will it fit, or do I need an adaptor - anyone else done it? Once I get this sorted, I should be able to pop a delrin shim or two into the mix and tune the last couple of MM, dependent on the adaptor thickness (if needed). Do I have to account for the optical properties of the filters? do they add/remove physical distance to sensor? Or am I invoking too much Physics into this... For the record, they are all the Baader 36mm unmounted, and should be, ahem, parfocal with each other (or thereabouts)... I use a moonlite autofocuser, so not an issue, but just wondered if it affects the spacing of the sensor - focal reducer thingy. I really hope someone understands all this better than I do - I'm getting rather confused by the whole malarkey Cheers, Jim
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After a lot of experimentation I have just managed to achieve focus on both my oag and Atik 383l. However I am not convinced that the image from the guide camera is orthagonal to that of the Atik even though both are square to the RA axis. I did have to chop about 5mm off the prism turret to achieve focus. Could the prism have moved? If so will it affect my guiding accuracy? How do I check how much it's off by? The prism appears to be square and flush with the turret, will removing and resetting the prism (using the small grub screw) make any difference. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dec
